Tenerife is one of Europe’s great winter-sun escapes - but if your entire experience is limited to a pool, a buffet and a strip of imported bars, you may return home without really meeting the island at all.
In this episode, Daniel Edward is joined by writer John Reid, whose family connections with Tenerife stretch back generations. John spent many years showing visitors around the island as a private guide. Now retired from guiding, he continues to bring Tenerife’s history and characters to life through the books he publishes as John Reid Young.
More here: https://www.destinationunlocked.com
Together, Daniel and John leave the resort strip behind to discover an island that behaves like a miniature continent. The dry, sun-soaked south gives way to vineyards, banana plantations and greener landscapes in the north. Above them both rise the volcanic formations of Teide National Park, while the Anaga Mountains conceal laurel forest, deep ravines and rural hamlets.
John also introduces Tenerife’s guachinches, volcanic wines and hearty local dishes, and explains how the island’s history connects British travellers, Atlantic trade and Nelson’s failed attack on Santa Cruz.
This is destination unlocked with me, Daniel Edward.
2
:Welcome to this episode of Destination
Unlocked, where we are heading to 10 Arif.
3
:Destination Unlocked is the Conversational
Travel Podcast where every week I'm
4
:joined by a local or a travel expert
who introduces us to their part of
5
:the world and gives us everything we
need to know for a fantastic trip.
6
:And today we are going to the Canary
Island of Tenerif with John Reed, who
7
:has just retired as a private tour guide.
8
:He's also written a few books, which
we'll chat about within the conversation.
9
:If you're heading out to
Tenerif, it's a fabulous island.
10
:You're gonna really love it, and this is
gonna set you up for great success there.
11
:Enjoy.
12
:So John, where are you
unlocking for us today?
13
:John Reid: I'm unlocking,
the Canary Island of Tene.
14
:Daniel Edward: And it's a
place that I absolutely love.
15
:It was one of my first international
holidays and I remember my dad saying
16
:to me either on the plane or when we
just arrived, you know when this place
17
:erupts, it's going to send a tsunami
so big that it's going to flood the
18
:east coast of the United States.
19
:And I was terrified for the whole time.
20
:John Reid: well we do live in a,
volcanic hotspot, so, we know that,
21
:at some point or another we'll
probably have another eruption.
22
:we did have one major one in,
on the island of La Palma, in
23
:2021, which last you for 90 days.
24
:But that, doesn't mean you have to
listen to all the newspapers and threats.
25
:saying that it's gonna blow up because
we get plenty of warning and I doubt
26
:very much of anything will happen for
a long time, especially on tenerif.
27
:Daniel Edward: Especially
on there's confidence there.
28
:John Reid: having said that, we do
get rumblings here and there, but
29
:we still live here and there's, no
panic, so don't worry about that.
30
:Daniel Edward: Nothing wrong
with a rumble every now and then.
31
:what would you say are the main
highlights of Tenerif that people
32
:who are planning a trip there just
absolutely must have on their itinerary?
33
:John Reid: Well, we have just talked
about, possible volcanic eruptions.
34
:And of course the, must in turn Reef
has to be TAed in National Park, not
35
:necessarily climbing up Mount Sadie, which
is a stunning experience, but actually,
36
:visiting the park itself because, 10
reef is like a miniature continent
37
:with such a variety of landscapes.
38
:but of course when you get up to
the central Highlands, what we call
39
:the alpine deserts of Las Canes, you
could be on different planets rather
40
:than just a miniature continent.
41
:So a, it's a stunning place.
42
:which I would always recommend just for
a peep and then to quickly get out of it,
43
:'cause it does get rather full of people.
44
:However, there are other places like the
Arga Mountains, which is my favourite,
45
:favourite area, possibly because of
the, lush, subtropical rainforests that
46
:we have at the top of the mountains.
47
:Very different to where most of the
holiday makers go, which is the south
48
:itinerary, you know, Loso, Los Americas,
et cetera, which is more like a desert
49
:that's being greened artificially
for the massive tourist resorts.
50
:Daniel Edward: And you talk about massive
tourist resorts, I would imagine that
51
:a lot of people are going to Tenerife
and they're just basing themselves in a
52
:massive tourist resort, and in some ways
they wouldn't even know where they are.
53
:John Reid: I think the
majority just do that.
54
:I mean, understandably, you know,
coming down from, cold north, the
55
:winter months in Scandinavia, England,
et cetera, that's what they want.
56
:They just want to lie by the pool or on
the beach and get some sun of themselves.
57
:but more and more people are becoming
more adventurous and actually going
58
:around and driving themselves or
getting guides like myself to show
59
:them something completely different
because Tanif is an amazing place.
60
:As I say, it's not just sun
and tourism and, beaches.
61
:Daniel Edward: What sort of adventures
do people like to go out on?
62
:John Reid: Well, there's,
very big stuff in kayaking.
63
:There's, a lot of hiking.
64
:I do a lot of hiking.
65
:Of course there's climbing
mount, there's paragliding.
66
:It's become a very popular event.
67
:paragliding experts will, take people
on rides from high up in the mountains
68
:near the observatory, which is, at
:
69
:And literally they fly through
the clouds and land on the beaches
70
:in the north of tenor reef.
71
:So that is a stunning experience.
72
:Fishing, of course, and, going
out to see the, the whales and
73
:dolphins for which I feel quite
sorry actually, but there we go.
74
:Daniel Edward: So you mentioned the
north, there's an obvious north and
75
:south divide in Tenerif, there's a
big mountain in the middle of it,
76
:or volcano in the middle of it.
77
:but they do feel quite different.
78
:How would you choose one over the other
79
:John Reid: Well, the south is,
evidently where most of the big, five
80
:star hotels have been erected, where
most of the tourism goes because it
81
:is drier and it gets more sunlight.
82
:and so it's more of a desert.
83
:whereas on the north side of the
mountains, northeast side of the
84
:mountains the air gets stuck, stuck
by the high mountains, which prevent
85
:the air from going right over the,
And so that causes condensation
86
:on the north side of the island.
87
:So we have much more cloud cover, and
if we do get some rain, more rain.
88
:and therefore the north is much, much
prettier, much greener, much luer, more
89
:vegetation, more gardens, more vineyards,
Ben Island plantations, one side's dry and
90
:barren, the other side is green and lush.
91
:That's always my description.
92
:Daniel Edward: that's the
trade winds, isn't it?
93
:John Reid: The trade links exactly
in trade links, which is what
94
:really got tourism going here in
the Canaries four or 500 years ago.
95
:tourism didn't start in
the 19th, 20th century.
96
:It started long before that.
97
:for example, if you went to the Port of
Santa Cruz, which is the capital, there's
98
:a walkway between the yachting marina
and the cruise ship port, which is the
99
:walkway of the illustrious visitors.
100
:And along there, there are bollards
with the names and, kind of images
101
:of all these visitors who began to
come here from right back from the
102
:16th century, through to modern days.
103
:People like James Cook, for example,
captain James Cook, who on his last voyage
104
:of Discovery stopped off Interne in 1776.
105
:Spent a week here.
106
:then we got Charles Ban, although he
wasn't allowed off the ship, he stopped
107
:off Interne on his voyage in, 1843.
108
:Daniel Edward: Why didn't he cut?
109
:Why wasn't he allowed off?
110
:John Reid: Well, it wasn't his fault.
111
:A boat rode out, from the
beach, and literally said, you,
112
:nobody has allowed off the ship.
113
:This ship is in quarantine because
earlier ships coming from the
114
:United Kingdom had reported an
outbreak of cholera in England, so
115
:they didn't want to take a risk.
116
:Daniel Edward: It makes perfect
117
:John Reid: So Darwin, in his daries,
said how very disappointed he
118
:was not to have explored 10 reef.
119
:Daniel Edward: If I was stuck on
one of those little ships and just
120
:looking at it, I'd be disappointed too.
121
:John Reid: What exactly.
122
:Daniel Edward: what about the capitol?
123
:it's unusual in that the tourist centre
is not there, is there a reason for that
124
:or should people make the effort to go
and spend a day or so in the capitol?
125
:John Reid: the capital
has a lot going for it.
126
:It is quite a big city,
240,000 inhabitants.
127
:it's a massive cruise ship port.
128
:Now, of course, why
don't tourists go there?
129
:A few tourists go there, there,
there's some, you know, first class
130
:hotels there, but, there's no beach.
131
:the beach has been overtaken by the port.
132
:it's not what tourists want,
unless you want to, to discover the
133
:historical nature of the island.
134
:and there's a lot of
history in the city centre.
135
:there's of course the, famous Sydney esque
Opera House that we have, by the sea.
136
:there's, one or two little
fortresses for example, there's St.
137
:John the Baptist Fortress,
that was completed in the 17th
138
:century, 1695, I think it was.
139
:And, right next, to it, you've got
this modern auditorium, this modern
140
:opera house, which opened in 2003.
141
:The contrast between one
or the other is amazing.
142
:So just that is worth a visit if you want
to hire a car or take a drive up there.
143
:what most people don't know is
that, there's, quite a lot of
144
:reference to the Battle of Santa
Cruz, which took place in, 97.
145
:And that's when, Horatio Nelson, Admiral
Nelson was asked by his commanding officer
146
:to go and raid 10 Reef to capture it.
147
:And of course, the Battle of Santa
Cruz is where Croatia Nelson lost his
148
:arm, his right arm, and it's the only
battle that he's believed to have lost.
149
:Daniel Edward: Well, it
certainly didn't go well him.
150
:John Reid: No.
151
:Daniel Edward: and one of the
few battles where Britain lost
152
:against the Spanish in history.
153
:John Reid: I think you're right.
154
:Yes, absolutely.
155
:he should even easily
have won that battle.
156
:In fact, 10 may well have been British,
had he or his captains, 'cause he used to
157
:pay attention to what his captain said.
158
:not made some pretty disastrous
errors of judgement in terms of,
159
:the currents in the sea, the heat.
160
:It was a very hot day.
161
:the way they attacked, using similar,
very successful method to, to he use in
162
:the Mediterranean to capture city states.
163
:But he, got it completely wrong, intern.
164
:Daniel Edward: You say Tenerif
may well have been British.
165
:I feel like some locals say that
Tenerif is already bit British and maybe
166
:there are too many of us given over.
167
:John Reid: Well, it
depends who you listen to.
168
:I've heard people saying, gosh, if only
Nelson had succeeded, But of course you
169
:are, you are trying to get me to talk
about what we are calling overt tourism.
170
:And yes, indeed we have overt tourism in
Tanif, as it happens throughout the world.
171
:But we in Tanif especially have,
certainly got over tourism.
172
:And I say this as a, as a guide.
173
:I'm an official guide in Tene,
and of course I live in tourism,
174
:but I must admit there's too much.
175
:you know, we are all worried about this
because it has affected ordinary people.
176
:It's affected the, the islands, you
know, infrastructures and also the,
177
:the environment, on the island.
178
:but most of the people realise
that, you know, it's not the
179
:tourist's fault, they're not really
complaining about the tourists.
180
:They're not complaining against
the tourists, they're not
181
:protesting against tourists.
182
:They're actually protesting against the
government for permitting the construction
183
:and building of so many hotels and so many
apartment blocks, et cetera, et cetera.
184
:it's not the tourist fault.
185
:It's a great place to come and come and
stay and come and to have a holiday.
186
:but a fine line has to be drawn
and it hasn't been drawn, and it's
187
:probably a bit late for it to be drawn.
188
:Daniel Edward: Is there a season
which is quieter to visit?
189
:John Reid: Yes.
190
:it's my favourite time of year,
which is between, the middle
191
:of April and the end of June.
192
:May and June are a really good months to
visit, especially if you're interested
193
:in Flora, because everything's in flower,
the island becomes a, a watercolour
194
:especially high up in around where the
endemic flora up there gives us such
195
:a show, especially plants like the
Tara Jewels or the, Ecu Ville Pretty,
196
:which is a stunning, stunning plant.
197
:Also September and the
beginning of October.
198
:But May and June are definitely the
quietest time and the prettiest.
199
:Daniel Edward: What's the
food scene like in Tenerif?
200
:Is it very Spanish or does it
feel quite uniquely Tenian?
201
:John Reid: There's a great mix here.
202
:there's obviously Spanish, we're lucky to
have a bit of all, a bit of everything.
203
:so imagine if you were in Galicia
or Cantabria where, there's some
204
:wonderful spoon dishes, lovely
stews and things like that.
205
:We have a bit of that.
206
:We've also got the
Mediterranean diet as well.
207
:But of course, intermingled there is also
what, we inherited from North Africa.
208
:from, the pre-Hispanic inhabitants
of Bunchie inhabitants, they bases
209
:their diet more on goat meat and,
goat milk and, all that kind of, so,
210
:so there is a, an authentic Canary
Island cuisine which a lot of little
211
:restaurants around developing, into
a more sort of, Novo Canary cuisine.
212
:And very, very good, very good food.
213
:I can give you two, three examples.
214
:One is the typical, grilled goat
cheese with the typical mojos,
215
:the Canary Island sauces, and
palm honey or palm syrup on top.
216
:That is absolutely amazing.
217
:always stuns my guests when I
take them to, che, which are
218
:very typical local restaurants.
219
:My favourite was a probably
grilled octopus poor octopus.
220
:But I mean, it's a delicious,
way to eat octopus.
221
:And obviously inherited from, the North
African population is goat meat, stew
222
:the most delicious meals or dishes
are literally poor man's dishes.
223
:So, in other words, things like Rob
Vieja, which means old clothes.
224
:And that is what, you know,
whatever you can find in the
225
:kitchen, you put in the pot.
226
:And the same with a, wonderful
soup or potage, which is called
227
:Rancho Canary Island Rancho.
228
:And that, again, is a wonderful
filling, almost just 1 meal a day thing.
229
:It's absolutely delicious.
230
:chickpeas, potatoes, beans, meat,
macaronis, everything chopped in,
231
:whatever's found in the kitchen.
232
:Daniel Edward: It's the
easiest way of cooking as well.
233
:John Reid: Absolutely.
234
:Daniel Edward: And something
which surprises people is the
235
:wine scene in Tenerif as well.
236
:People think, oh sure, you can't
grow vines here, but you can.
237
:And the volcanic soils do, well,
something rather special with it.
238
:John Reid: Yes.
239
:let's say local wine producers or
any other donors are very proud of
240
:the fact that they can say, well, you
know, the minerals in the volcanic
241
:soil do wonders for the wine.
242
:But of course, we talk about the,
exquisite wines that we have today.
243
:And there are some very exquisite wines.
244
:we've got over 70 types of vine, and
they do a lot of blending to produce
245
:exquisite, wines, especially the whites
and the roses But of course, people
246
:forget that the, Canary Island wines
became famous in the 16th century.
247
:William Shakespeare in various
of his plays, mentions Canary
248
:wines, canary sack, ey wines.
249
:we always talk about Madeira and
his wines, but in fact, I believe
250
:that the British first started
buying wines from the Canaries.
251
:And in the particular valley that I live,
which is the Tava Valley, was the first
252
:to export wines to, to a great person
ell, to England, let's say in:
253
:So there's a long history
of, world production here.
254
:Daniel Edward: Wow.
255
:John Reid: The history of agriculture
here in 10, its study because it
256
:goes from one product to the other.
257
:I mean, the canaries first started with
the sugarcane and that was all they had.
258
:So they sold sugar to begin with,
then wine, then il, then banana and
259
:tomatoes another, another thing.
260
:But I always joke about this when I
explain to my clients that, of course
261
:the main clients for the canary and wine
for possibly because the main clients
262
:for anything alcoholic, were the British.
263
:Were the British,
264
:Daniel Edward: It's good
to have a loyal customer.
265
:John Reid: But of course it's not
just a matter of drinking it, it's
266
:the knowledge that selling wine was
very beneficial to their pockets.
267
:You know, it is a very lucrative business.
268
:Daniel Edward: Oh yeah.
269
:I think it was business decisions.
270
:It wasn't consumption decisions.
271
:It was, it was wanting to sell it on.
272
:John Reid: Absolutely.
273
:Daniel Edward: How do people get
around the island if you're gonna
274
:base yourself, let's say in the south,
you, you've decided you're going for
275
:a resort holiday, but you don't wanna
be stuck at the resort the whole time.
276
:A couple of days of the beach
is great, but now you want to
277
:get into the island and see it.
278
:How do you do that?
279
:John Reid: we're very lucky
'cause the public transport
280
:service, is very good indeed.
281
:I mean, you know, if you get the
timetables and you get the connections,
282
:the buses are very, very on time.
283
:They're frequent.
284
:if you can get anywhere you like,
even to the smallest villages,
285
:up in the inaugural mountains,
if you get the right connections.
286
:obviously if you are a tourist or
a visitor, there's lots of rental
287
:car companies renting their cars
so you can get a car quite easily.
288
:Having said that, in the peak seasons, You
have to book well in advance because they
289
:do run out and the prices go sky high.
290
:Daniel Edward: Is it safe to
drive if you're not used to it?
291
:John Reid: It's safe to drive, but
some of the road signs and roundabouts
292
:are a bit confusing, especially if
you are from the British Isles and
293
:driving on the correct side of the road.
294
:Daniel Edward: Agree with
295
:John Reid: And there are a lot of, and
there are a lot of narrow roads as well.
296
:So up in the mountains,
very winding, narrow roads.
297
:I've noticed as a driver myself, because
I, I do drive my clients around that,
298
:uh, you get a lot of, people may maybe
from the British house finding it rather,
299
:rather dodgy driving along those roads.
300
:But I've never seen many accidents.
301
:Daniel Edward: That's at least a
good thing is there, is there an
302
:etiquette, in terms of when you're
on one of these narrow winding
303
:roads as to who gives way to who?
304
:John Reid: not necessarily.
305
:No, there isn't.
306
:The only thing is that normally a car
coming down a hill, for example, down
307
:rather than narrow roads, will have to
give preference to the car coming up.
308
:Daniel Edward: which is always a good
309
:John Reid: the only thing.
310
:It's always a
311
:good It's always a good idea.
312
:Daniel Edward: and of course
the other way to see the place
313
:is to take a, private tour.
314
:John Reid: Yes, of course.
315
:which I thoroughly enjoy because,
it's a lovely place to drive around.
316
:Lovely place to show.
317
:I like showing off my island.
318
:I know quite a lot about the island,
we've been here for my family,
319
:been here for more than 200 years.
320
:I do private tours, only private tours.
321
:Daniel Edward: This is something I
really like about what you do, and your
322
:company is called Tenerif Private Tours.
323
:So it sort of gives the game away, but you
only do a private tour, not one of these
324
:big group tours, which can often end up
a big coach lurching through te mountain.
325
:and by the end of it they
feel thoroughly sick.
326
:and they have a few out
out of the coach window.
327
:You've gone for a totally different
focus and why does it work?
328
:John Reid: Well, let's say, let's
start by saying why I did that and
329
:why I did that is because actually
I started on the coaches as a guide.
330
:I've just had the microphone
and, do my spiel but I felt
331
:very sorry for the passengers.
332
:A because they, I was always
telling them to get on and get off
333
:and get on and get off, and five
minutes here, five minutes there.
334
:And also, I prefer a one-to-one basis.
335
:I prefer a personal basis.
336
:I realise that I like meeting people,
I like making friends with my clients.
337
:And luckily, I've been
very lucky with that.
338
:I've got a lot of friends who have
been clients, past clients and
339
:a lot of repeat clients as well,
and so it's much more enjoyable.
340
:Much more enjoyable.
341
:And of course we can stop, we
can do golf off the beaten track.
342
:we can do more sort of,
uh, personalised tours.
343
:I much more enjoy meeting people.
344
:it is not just a job, it's
actually meeting people.
345
:That's, the kick I get out
of it, is meeting people.
346
:Daniel Edward: if somebody's thinking
about taking a private tour, do
347
:they have to do a lot more research
in advance to then ask the right
348
:questions to get the right tour?
349
:Or do you suggest things to them?
350
:John Reid: a little bit of both.
351
:my website, offers, a number of tours.
352
:A variety of tours.
353
:You can't see the island in one day.
354
:you know, you've got to be more specific.
355
:some of these coach tours, they will
rush you through different parts of the
356
:island you hardly know what you're seeing.
357
:I divided up the island into six or seven,
tours, and I do it at a leisurely pace.
358
:I get a lot of clients who obviously do
do their homework and do, do their studies
359
:and they ask me some wonderful questions.
360
:I love this one-to-one.
361
:I love being asked questions during
the, during the ride, during the tour.
362
:and it's great fun.
363
:It's great fun.
364
:Daniel Edward: So what was your background
in order to get into tour guiding at all?
365
:'cause you have to know a huge
amount of, well, everything really.
366
:John Reid: Well, I, started,
guiding only about 15 years ago.
367
:before that I did a lot of other things.
368
:I was in the uk, , spent a bit
of time in the British, services.
369
:I was a, a late student.
370
:I've written books.
371
:and really It just came naturally.
372
:This, a friend of mine saying, John, you
get your, official guides certificate
373
:or licence, you can come on my buses.
374
:and so I thought, well, I
took, I took his word for it.
375
:So I did the exams, I did
the studying, did the exams.
376
:you have to study quite
hard to become a guide.
377
:The exams are not easy.
378
:And, once I got my licence,
then I started, um, guiding.
379
:But, the background, I suppose my
family, having been here for 200
380
:years, a lot of information handed
down over the ages, over the years.
381
:my family, there are four generations
of, vice consulates in Tanif.
382
:so, you know, a lot of, a lot
of background knowledge anyway.
383
:and as my friend said, you know, when
I asked him a guy, me, you know why, I
384
:mean, I hadn't thought about being a guy.
385
:And he said, well, John, you know a
little bit and you talk rather a lot.
386
:didn't quite know how he, how to
take that, but I understand that
387
:one needs to talk to be a guide.
388
:Daniel Edward: A, a silent guide
isn't the most informative.
389
:John Reid: No.
390
:No.
391
:Daniel Edward: if people want to
find out more about your, books what
392
:is the website that they can go to?
393
:John Reid: I've got a historical
blog, which is called Travel Stories
394
:in 10 and the Canary Islands.
395
:I'm sure you'd like that actually.
396
:Daniel Edward: I did.
397
:read
398
:John Reid: talks about, oh, you
399
:have, well there's, there's lots
of, uh, interesting articles in that
400
:over the years, which gives you an
insight into the past of Tenerif,
401
:let's say more than the present.
402
:and that can be found online as well.
403
:It's just basically if you Google travel
stories in and the Canary Islands,
404
:you will, you'll, you'll find it.
405
:And my books are on there as well, so
you can always click on the book cover
406
:images, and you'll be taken to Amazon.
407
:Daniel Edward: I really like that blog
because for me to see a place with
408
:context helps me really see a place.
409
:I'm not a beach person.
410
:Anybody who knows me knows that
I, I can't do an hour on a beach.
411
:It just doesn't suit me.
412
:And so to get into the history of
it, to get into the, the stories
413
:of how it ended up as it is today,
you need to understand how it was
414
:John Reid: Yeah, absolutely.
415
:Daniel Edward: That's I love the
agriculture story of, Tenerif.
416
:I like the military story of Tenerif.
417
:John Reid: yeah,
418
:Daniel Edward: such a fan beaches myself.
419
:John Reid: No, no, no.
420
:But, quite honestly, Canary
Islanders never went to the beach.
421
:They didn't used to go swimming.
422
:They didn't go into the rock pools
until the Victorian visitors from
423
:the United Kingdom started to come.
424
:And there are old black and white photo
blasts of, you know, Victorian ladies
425
:in their long dresses and pet COEs
rolling them up and paddling in the rock,
426
:pools in, the local people were amazed.
427
:What, what are these people doing,
428
:Daniel Edward: Is so funny.
429
:Imported customs.
430
:' cause the, Victorians love the seaside.
431
:I mean, if you, if you look of
the, the British holiday areas,
432
:all Victorian seaside spots.
433
:John Reid: There are beaches
that are called Ingles,
434
:frankly, Englishman's Beach.
435
:there are Rockpool, uh, LACA de
la Ella, the colonel's wives,
436
:Rockpool, where an English colonel's
wife used to paddle, used to go
437
:in her, into, into the Rockpool.
438
:And there's another one near the town
of Garko northwest of the island, which
439
:is called Koles Englishman's Pond.
440
:A Rockpool because of an Englishman
there who used to manage a sugarcane
441
:plantation, who used to every
day ride on his camel down to the
442
:Rockpool for a dip in the Rockpool.
443
:An Englishman eccentric.
444
:We were all very eccentric.
445
:We still are,
446
:Daniel Edward: think that
is international reputation.
447
:Yeah.
448
:John Reid: yeah, it is.
449
:But we've done a lot of good
with our eccentricities and
450
:our ways and our manners.
451
:Daniel Edward: We seem to pop up all over
the world with, the odd bits and bobs.
452
:John Reid: we don't realise how
much good we've done actually, we're
453
:terribly critical of ourselves,
but we've done a lot of good.
454
:We should be very proud of what we've
done around the world, quite honestly.
455
:Daniel Edward: Yeah.
456
:And you know, that's, nice to
hear 'cause that is not right
457
:now, the mainstream narrative.
458
:And I, I've been reading a book, I've
forgotten the title of it, it's about
459
:the British Empire, but it's, been told
from a very positive perspective, for
460
:all the people that are saying about
empire and maybe you wouldn't have an
461
:empire today, that doesn't mean that
it wasn't, contributing in its time.
462
:and that's sort of being unwritten
at this point because of the
463
:negative aspects of it as well.
464
:But in a hundred, 200, 300
years time, people are gonna be
465
:criticising what we are doing today.
466
:John Reid: exactly.
467
:But I mean, we have, we do have a tendency
to, beat ourselves down to the ground.
468
:we're terribly self critical
and ashamed and we shouldn't be.
469
:We, you know, quite honestly.
470
:Okay, we, we've done some naughty
things, but we've done a lot more good
471
:Daniel Edward: Yeah, most of
the train lines in the world.
472
:if somebody's making their way to 10
and they've not been before, how easy
473
:is it for them to get around with
English if they don't have any Spanish?
474
:John Reid: It's very easy, most
Canary Island people learn a
475
:little bit of English right now.
476
:so most people in the, in the
bars, restaurants, et cetera,
477
:will, will know some English,
and they'll love to show it off.
478
:but even if they don't speak English,
you go up into the hills, you go
479
:to a local inn or a local shop or
whatever, just using your hands
480
:and arms and things like that.
481
:people get, get along in any languages,
and of course the canary owner does
482
:They're very generous, open people, uh,
especially the older ones, you know.
483
:So, no problems there at all.
484
:Very, very, very welcoming people,
possibly because the Canary Islanders
485
:being where they are in the Atlantic,
so strategically placed, over the years,
486
:so many people have come and gone this
way on their way somewhere, that they,
487
:Canary Islanders became used to welcoming
people and being generous and offering
488
:them what they had, you know, so they're
very, very con, very good people.
489
:Daniel Edward: Are there PHIMS to Spanish
in the same way that in South America,
490
:the Spanish is slightly different.
491
:John Reid: yes, quite a lot.
492
:it's similar to South America.
493
:I mean, the, the accent is different.
494
:The grammar is all the same.
495
:grammatically everything's the same.
496
:But the accents, yes.
497
:So, there are lots of examples.
498
:For example, if you were in Madrid
and you said, thank you, you'd say,
499
:s and you say, cia, you pronounce
the C as a C rather than a TH.
500
:And also the word endings are very lazy.
501
:We don't end our words,
502
:Daniel Edward: How about Adios then?
503
:Do you say Adi.
504
:And and hello is still Ola.
505
:John Reid: Yeah, Helen is,
506
:yeah.
507
:Daniel Edward: I, please puff favo.
508
:There's a soft ending anyway, I suppose.
509
:John Reid: Well, is is the
same as it would be anybody.
510
:Daniel Edward: Okay.
511
:So a few easy words and, and you
512
:John Reid: word.
513
:And of course there are a lot, there are
also words that come from, English, you
514
:know, old words from English, for example,
the word comes from come by on board
515
:is when the, merchant ships from England
would arrive in talking about three,
516
:400 years ago, would come and aircraft.
517
:Sure.
518
:or even on the port and you know,
sort of invite people to come on board
519
:and buy without declaring anything.
520
:bit of a naughty kind of selling
and buying, come by on board.
521
:And we talk about that quietly,
you know, that kind of thing.
522
:And the other one, of course the famous
one is, the word gu che sounds if it
523
:should come from the pre-Hispanic tribes.
524
:But Gu Chi is the name of a typical,
kind of very local homemade food
525
:restaurant of which are a lot
smaller now than they used to be.
526
:And Gu Chi comes from an old English
or Irish expression, which is, I
527
:am watching Yi, I'm watching Yi.
528
:In other words, you know, I'm watching
Yi, I'm watching what you're doing.
529
:Because it was when the, British
or English merchants would come to
530
:10 to buy wine in the 16th, 17th
century and say, I'm watching that.
531
:You don't actually water
it down or whatever.
532
:Daniel Edward: Sometimes need to
do that in a fuel station too.
533
:John Reid: the local wine maker
would invite the foreign merchant
534
:to come and sample his wines
while having a meal at his house.
535
:Daniel Edward: that's
536
:hospitality.
537
:John Reid: restaurants, hospitality.
538
:Yeah.
539
:Daniel Edward: Where is somewhere
that only locals go in 10 reef?
540
:John Reid: Oh gosh.
541
:That's a difficult question.
542
:Um, that is a very difficult question.
543
:very difficult to find anywhere in ery
that you would only find local sites.
544
:But I can tell you that if you,
if you were to go into the Arga
545
:Mountains and go deep into one of the
valleys, you would come across little
546
:villages like Al or Las Carbons.
547
:And when you walk or drive through
there, you will be amazed to find
548
:that there's hardly any tourism.
549
:and a lot of my guests, when they choose
that particular tour, they're amazed.
550
:They say, gosh, there's,
there's no, there's no tour
551
:buses, there's no tour coaches.
552
:what do people live from here?
553
:And of course, what they see around
them is terraces and terraces and
554
:terraces of potatoes, of pumpkin,
vineyards, et cetera, things like that.
555
:So deep in the inaugural mountains off the
beaten track, you will find only locals,
556
:but you'll also find hikers, from all over
the world who've discovered these places.
557
:Daniel Edward: Back into
the main tourist areas.
558
:What do people do about tips in
tenor reef is tipping a thing.
559
:John Reid: that's usually a question
I get from my American guests, what
560
:I always say to them is, if you are
happy with the service and you're
561
:happy with the, food, be generous.
562
:Especially up in the mountains, not
down in the tour, in the tourist areas.
563
:You know, every, everybody's
making a, a good, profit.
564
:So I always say, you know, if you're
happy, just leave 10% or even less.
565
:But it's not obligatory.
566
:If you don't leave a tip,
that's perfectly all right.
567
:generally speaking, for example, if
I go up a meal, if we pay something
568
:like, 30 euros between my wife and
I or whatever, I don't need more
569
:than two euros, something like that.
570
:Just a, just a couple of coins.
571
:if you're up in the hills in one of the
local, local CIA type restaurants where
572
:obviously food is very, very cheap.
573
:I'm more generous.
574
:I leave more because I'm helping
a family that lives up there.
575
:Daniel Edward: And if you're
getting out of the main tourist
576
:areas, do you need cash?
577
:John Reid: most places will accept card.
578
:very few places won't.
579
:having said that, my, one of my favourite
restaurants, which is in the town called
580
:Ga Chico in the northwest wonderful
restaurant, they don't accept card.
581
:so it is worth taking a little
bit of cash just in case.
582
:Daniel Edward: And it's
Euros so easy to get hold of.
583
:John Reid: Yeah.
584
:Easy to get hold of.
585
:Yeah.
586
:Daniel Edward: If somebody's visiting
from a cruise ship, 'cause you mentioned
587
:the cruise port in, Santa Cruz earlier.
588
:What would you say is the best day trip
for them to make the most of their time?
589
:Because chances are they have a
day, maybe they've got a seven
590
:and a half, eight hour stop.
591
:John Reid: Right.
592
:There are places to avoid, in other
words, the, a other extreme of the island.
593
:you know, the cruise ship
borders in the northeast.
594
:So try and avoid tours that are
gonna take you to places like Masco,
595
:for example, which is the, the
extreme southwest of the island.
596
:the rest is okay.
597
:having said that, the traffic jams on
the main highways in Tanif have become
598
:horrendous, especially in the early
mornings and from three o'clock onwards.
599
:So you have to be very, very careful
if you're on a cruise ship, especially
600
:if you're doing a private tour,
that you're gonna get back on time.
601
:so I always recommend if you're on a
cruise, it depends what you want to see.
602
:But if you're not bothered about going
to see Taylor National Park or, what I
603
:call the Scenic Northwest Gala Chico and
od, if you're not bothered about that,
604
:but you just want to see a little bit
of Tanif taking a bit of the sort of
605
:old Tanif that I call it, then I would
always go for something like the Tag Nana
606
:tour, which is in the Arga Mountains,
the Chin Mother Tour, which is also
607
:down in, in the Arga Mountains as well.
608
:So the closer, the better.
609
:but most sort of organised
cruise ship tours will take
610
:people to den National Park.
611
:They'll take people to, Roque, which is
a big, nature park in in the Ava Valley.
612
:They'll take you to Garco, they'll
take you to Puerto La Cruise or lava
613
:la Ava, wonderful old, historical
town actually, if you can go
614
:and visit the town centre there.
615
:cruise ship passengers are finding
it more difficult because of
616
:the, because of the traffic.
617
:So don't, you know, don't be
too, daring and go too far away.
618
:Daniel Edward: Well, you might be
staying longer than you thought.
619
:John Reid: Yes.
620
:Daniel Edward: What would you say is
the top thing to see or do on 10 Reef?
621
:John Reid: Well, obviously
Taday National Park.
622
:you can get more out of it by enjoying
the whole park, by going to the different,
623
:different, geological sites in the park.
624
:you can go to the top, but you've also,
especially on, if you're on a cruise ship,
625
:you've gotta be very, very careful at the
time, because sometimes you spend longer
626
:at the top and then you've been imagined.
627
:and also only 200 people per
day are permitted to the summit.
628
:So you can go into the cable car, which
will take you to about 200 metres below
629
:the summit, but you can't go to the
top unless you have special permission.
630
:there's usually a waiting list
for that special permission.
631
:you've gotta get it
three months in advance.
632
:You know, you've gotta get your
guide or you do it yourself to get
633
:permission three months in advance.
634
:Because the last bit is not
only, a 60 degree gradient time.
635
:it's a thrilling line, quite strenuous.
636
:So you've gotta be fit, gotta have no
heart problems, that kind of thing.
637
:And the views at the top
obviously are stunning.
638
:but I think you can get much more
from actually visiting the different
639
:points within TE International Park.
640
:Daniel Edward: What would you
say is a tourist trap to avoid?
641
:John Reid: Moscow, the Valley of
Moscow, it just become saturated.
642
:Well, den National Park has
become saturated as well.
643
:If you c if you were to come in the months
that I mentioned, in other words, may,
644
:June, September, then you'd be fine.
645
:But any other time of year, you've got
two areas of 10 reef, which have become
646
:ridiculously, overcrowded with rental
cars, with, tour buses, et cetera.
647
:And that is, I'm afraid, Taday
National Park and the value of Musk.
648
:Daniel Edward: We've preempted the
next question, which is what's your
649
:favourite time of year to visit?
650
:John Reid: Well, there you go.
651
:Well, as I'm here all year
round, I really don't mind.
652
:But, in terms of the job I do,
which is to be a private guide, my
653
:favourite time of beer is May, June.
654
:Everything's a flower.
655
:The weather's not too hot.
656
:It hasn't become summer yet.
657
:It still has a bit of, you
know, nice feeling to it.
658
:very clear skies, a lot of nature.
659
:very nice time here.
660
:Daniel Edward: What's your top
book or film recommendation that
661
:would connect people to Tenerif?
662
:John Reid: Well, there's been
a lot of movies made here in
663
:Te Aviv, as you probably know.
664
:the last Jason b movie was almost
entirely filmed in Santa Cruz.
665
:one of the fast and furious
movies, which my sons used to
666
:enjoy was filmed partly here.
667
:probably the most famous movie was one
called A Million Years BC and now you
668
:are far too young to remember that.
669
:But a million years BC
in:
670
:Daniel Edward: I will look it up.
671
:John Reid: Of course there
are other, interesting books.
672
:there's one which is, called The
Invention of Nature, and it's written
673
:by an American lady called Andrea Wolf,
who wrote about the life of the great
674
:German Explorer, Alexander Van Humboldt.
675
:And of course, he spent
a few days here in Tene.
676
:And of course she mentions his stay here.
677
:And it gives a lot of interesting
aspects about not only the history,
678
:but also the plants and the
flora and the nature, et cetera.
679
:And then, you've got, John Unds, two huge
volumes about the life of Admiral Nelson.
680
:And in it there's two long chapters
dedicated to the Battle of Santa Cruz.
681
:So that's quite interesting
to read as well.
682
:And of course, there are little books like
this one, the Skipping Virgin and Another
683
:Tale, which is, full of 22 very, very
short stories, all based here in Santa.
684
:And of course it's mine.
685
:Daniel Edward: And you
can get that on Amazon.
686
:John Reid: You can, yes, you can.
687
:Daniel Edward: What's your
top food or drink to try?
688
:John Reid: My favourite food is
almost suddenly rabbit stew in sal
689
:mare or sauce with wrinkled potatoes.
690
:Some majo sauce is very spicy sauce
with all sorts of things in it,
691
:you know, apart from lots and lots
of garlic and pepper and salt,
692
:paprika, chilli peppers, all that.
693
:It's very, very good.
694
:It's, it's a, it's a dish marinades for at
least two or three days, it's, wonderful.
695
:I'm feeling hungry already, just
because I've mentioned that, as far as
696
:wines are concerned, there are lots of
very, very good wine producers here.
697
:so I could recommend any kind
of whites or, or even red
698
:from the Tahi Naste vineyard.
699
:The Tahi Naste, which is
spelled Taji nasty, the esque,
700
:very good vineyards here.
701
:Very good vineyards.
702
:Daniel Edward: My final question is if
I wanna go home with a local authentic
703
:souvenir, not a fridge Magna or a, a
cat made in China, what could I get?
704
:John Reid: I'm not a souvenir seeker.
705
:But, I would go for
something, not a souvenir.
706
:I mean, I, you know, souvenirs are,
as you say, something, you stick on
707
:the, on the postcard or whatever.
708
:I would go for something like a handmade
authentic basket, you know, weaved
709
:basket from one of local producers
of which are few and far between.
710
:Now, I would also go for a local cheese.
711
:Obviously that's not a souvenir, so
you're gonna consume it, but the local
712
:goat cheeses are absolutely first class.
713
:Daniel Edward: It sounds like
something good for me to take home.
714
:I love goats cheese.
715
:John Reed from Tenerif Private Tours.
716
:Thank you so much for
unlocking tenerif for us today.
717
:John Reid: It's been an absolute pleasure.
718
:Thank you very much for inviting me.
719
:Daniel Edward: Once again, thank you very
much to John Reed for unlocking Tenerif
720
:for us, and if you'd like to check out
his book, give it a search on Amazon or
721
:Google and let me know what you think.
722
:You can always get in touch
and it's lovely to hear from
723
:you about all of your travels.
724
:If this was your first time listening
to Destination Unlocked and you're not
725
:yet following, I'd say do that now.
726
:Just before you go so that whenever
you want to find us again to go
727
:travelling somewhere else, you
can get here nice and easily.
728
:Until then, have a great day.
729
:Bye-bye.