Your skin starts changing earlier than you think, and most of us were never told what actually happens or what to do about it. In this episode, Dr. Kelsy Vick sits down with Claire Schwegel, a nurse injector in aesthetic dermatology at Vollure Medical, to break down the real science of aging skin: slower cell turnover, slower wound healing, and rising inflammation. Then they build a decade by decade game plan, evidence based prevention in your 20s, collagen banking and judicious neuromodulators in your 30s, perimenopausal structural care in your 40s, and hydration, resurfacing, and neck and hand care in your 50s. Claire also demystifies the whole toolkit: neuromodulators versus fillers, hyaluronic acid fillers versus biostimulators like Sculptra, real risks like vascular occlusion and migration, laser categories, PRP and microneedling, at home tools, why annual skin exams matter, and where aesthetics is headed next. Smart, honest, and refreshingly free of hype.
Links/Research Articles:
Dr. Claire’s Booking Link: https://www.myvelour.com/provider/claire-schwegel-del-signore/services?locationType=in-suite
Dr. Claire’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/confidencebyclaire/
Dr. Claire’s Tiktok: https://www.tiktok.com/@confidencebyclaire
105:: a doctorally trained cosmetic injector’s guide to bridal skin: what works and what is overhyped: https://youtu.be/3acEZMfw3FI?si=iElrgRrTDJb1uUXX
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Welcome to Wellness Fixes the Pod, a
by Maven Media production, where we
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believe you deserve real education
from real experts, delivered
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in a way you can actually use.
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I'm Dr.
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Kelsey Vick, your board-certified
orthopedic doctor of physical therapy, and
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this podcast was built for the girl who
is done feeling overwhelmed and frustrated
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by conflicting health noise and is ready
for something she can actually trust.
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Every week, we have honest, science-backed
conversations about your health,
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your hormones, your brain, your
body, and everything in between.
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No fluff, no fear-mongering,
just the truth.
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Because understanding your
body is the most powerful
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thing you can do for yourself.
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A table full of experts built for
the curious girl who wants the truth.
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So welcome.
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Your seat is waiting for you.
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Kelsy: What's actually happening
within our skin as we age?
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Biologically, what are some of the
drivers of the changes that we see
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in our skin throughout each decade?
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It's interesting that you talk about skin
healing because I talk with patients a
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lot, and usually in their 30s they're
saying like, I'm just noticing my body
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is not recovering well after exercise."
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And that's like their first sign
of this I'm not in my 20s anymore.
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My body isn't able to exercise and
drink and sleep, stay out late with
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minimal sleep, all of these things.
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The first thing I noticed was
my skin not healing as well.
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I kept telling my friends, I was like, I
have this acne scar or something, and I
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was like, it just isn't healing as well.
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And I noticed it the most in my skin.
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That was like my very first thing
where I was like, it wasn't the
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exercise, it wasn't the recovery,
it wasn't the injuries, it was like
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my skin, where I was like, it is
not healing as quick as it once did
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Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
It's wild the things we
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used to get away with.
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And it's interesting to see what
it is now, but obviously when I'm
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in my 40s and 50s aging is real.
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And used to- I went to school in New
Orleans undergrad, and would go out
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until God knows what hour of the night
and drink have a great time, and wake up
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and go to organic chemistry at 8:00 AM
in the morning and be absolutely fine.
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Now, if I have that second glass of wine
at night, it trashes my entire next day.
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So I think, yeah, you just…
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your body is not as good at
doing what it normally does.
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Skin cell turnover slows.
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Wound healing, it takes
a little bit longer.
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There are other inflammatory
processes that kind of get
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aggravated as you get older.
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And yeah, you're just overall not as
good as you were when you were 10.
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Kelsy: are there any things that we can
do at each decade to help support that
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collagen production, that hydration,
that architecture of the face?
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Like, all of those signs that you were
saying change as we age, are there things
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that we can do with either fueling or
supplementation or skincare, anything
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like that helps at each different decade?
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And even, different treatments and
procedures, just broadly that we should be
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looking at for prevention and maintenance
of some of those things as we age
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Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
Yeah.
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So I always say an ounce of
prevention is worth a pound of cure.
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And it really starts when you're young.
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That's when you have great
collagen and you wanna protect it.
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And so things that are really simple
and effective are sun protection, like
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I've been saying every like almost
every second of any time we talk.
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Retinoids are really great when tolerated.
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A nice like antioxidant and something
that keeps the barrier healthy.
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Your 20s are when prevention
has the highest return.
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Daily sunscreen has randomized trial
evidence for slowing photoaging.
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Retinoids improve photoaging by
increasing epidermal turnover
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and supporting collagen biology.
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And so I think in your 20s, the most
important thing is to just prioritize
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the things we have the most evidence
for that are going to keep you the way
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that you are, at that point in time.
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Really nothing that's aggressive,
just pretty conservative topicals.
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And if you're starting to see maybe like
fine lines and wrinkles, you can think
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about doing a conservative neuromodulator.
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Although I usually say if the lines
are not static, that means they're
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just there when you're not expressing,
they're dynamic, you have good collagen.
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Like it's not necessarily something that I
would run to go do in terms of procedures.
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For 30s, I think important
thing is collagen banking.
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So can do things like maintenance
neuromodulators, like BOTOX and Dysport.
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But like at that point, even if you're
really judicious about sunscreen,
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like you may have some pigment,
whether it's related to sun exposure
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or genetically or hormonally, driven.
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so priorities I think shift and then
you can maybe add in a little bit
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of BOTOX and Dysport really just
to prevent fine lines and wrinkles
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from forming and becoming static.
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And adding like a little IPL or
vascular laser to address any type
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of redness or pigment is really nice.
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Maybe considering small volume filler
if there's any type of anatomy that's
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changed, but I usually don't have patients
run to chase those types of things.
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And then you have to keep in mind your
30s are when most women are either
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planning pregnancy, a lot of women get
p-pregnant in their late 20s, but I
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think women are starting to get pregnant
later, and you have to keep in mind,
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like, all of these things have to be
safe during pregnancy and postpartum.
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So really tailoring the approach
to be appropriate for the stage
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of life that a woman is in.
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And then your 40s are really the time, I
think, when you start to see structural
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changes and skin quality really changing.
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That's at perimenopausal time.
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And so this is when patients often say,
"I look tired," even if they've slept, or
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there's just this not so tangible thing.
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They can't put their finger
on it, but there's a change,
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and they want to improve it.
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That's when I think neuromodulators
to really treat the way that the
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muscles pu-pull are very effective.
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Lower face Botox especially in the
platysma will help with releasing
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any downward pull and lift the
face up a little bit without
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needing to necessarily do filler.
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Are patients that will see real signs
of bony changes in their face, although
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it's a little bit early in your 40s.
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But mid to late 40s, patients will see
their pyraform starts to hollow out.
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There's usually some bone loss
on the chin here, or the temples
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become a little bit sunken in.
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And so those are areas that
can be considered for volume
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repletion, and I think it
certainly makes patients feel good.
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It restores a little bit of the support
that they normally had in their face,
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and it's a really effective treatment
to use either a biostimulator or an
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HA-based filler to treat those areas.
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then at that point in time, patients
tend to start getting a little bit
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more aggressive with their treatments.
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They have a more serious pigment strategy.
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They're using a tinted SPF.
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They're probably using a little bit
higher dose of a retinoid to really
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get the skin cells turning over.
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And then incorporating in whatever
Topicals are targeted for them,
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so azelaic or hydroquinone when
appropriate and like carefully
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selected and very targeted lasers.
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And that's, like I said, the point
in time when, you really have to
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think about how perimenopause is
changing the skin, and estrogen is
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really one of those things I think is
biologically relevant for aesthetics.
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And women will see like real changes in
the quality of their skin, like crepiness
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and dryness and doing some treatments
to address that can be really helpful.
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And then 50s and is when I, try
to get patients to embrace the
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aging process a little bit, right?
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We don't wanna look like we're 20 when
we're in our 50s but tackling some of
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the age-related changes to get hydration
back in the skin is really nice.
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Obviously, the mainstay of every decade
is gonna be SPF and still using a
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retinoid, they can, use a more aggressive
resurfacing laser if it's appropriate.
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Things like CO2 lasers that ablate
the top l- layer of the skin
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will really lift off pigment.
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It's aggressive, and there's significant
downtime, but it does wonders for like
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fine lines and wrinkles and pigment.
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and then still at that point in time,
like incorporating a little bit of
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filler bio-stimulator for patients
and treating areas not just like the
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face, but really the neck, sometimes
even the hands and other areas on
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the body that show signs of aging.
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So we always say like in aesthetics,
the biggest giveaway of someone's age
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is not their face, it's their neck and
their hands 'cause usually patients
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are really focused on treating their
face, and they forget those areas.
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And then the-- at every point in
time in the decade or at every point
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in time in each decade, you should
be having an annual full skin exam.
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That means you're completely naked head
to toe in a room with a dermatologist or
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someone who is very skilled at evaluating
the skin and looking at any new lesions
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or any enlarging pigment or, anything that
could be a suspicious lesion to make sure
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that you're staying healthy and catching
basal cells or any type of melanomas or
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things that are going to eventually turn
into skin cancer, precancerous lesions.
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So that's what I would give
for guidance at each decade.
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Kelsy: let's zoom in a little bit
on, you mentioned neuromodulators,
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and you use that term.
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Can you describe what they are,
what they do, what might be like
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the terminologies that we know for
neuromodulators and how they can be
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used like preventatively and reactively?
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I think you've talked about both
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Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
Yeah.
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So neuromodulators is like the
big umbrella for things that
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most patients have heard of are
called Botox, Dysport, Xeomin.
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There are lots of them on the market.
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And they essentially, patients think of
them or use them to treat wrinkles, but
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what they do is actually treat the muscle.
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And it prevents the muscle from
either pulling or creasing the
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skin in a certain direction.
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And by knocking out or causing a
little bit of paralysis in that area
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that maybe they have a complaint
about they smooth out the area.
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Botox, Dysport, all these neuromodulators
actually modulate the signal that's going
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to the nerve to tell it to contract.
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So that's why I call it a neuromodulator.
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So not all injectables
are neuromodulators.
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Neuromodulators are your Botox,
Dysport, Xeomin, if that makes sense.
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And the two that are most common
that most people think about
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are like Botox and Dysport.
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They're very well studied.
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I will say that Botox has broader
published evidence overall, largely
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because it has more FDA-approved
indications and it's been studied like
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extensively across aesthetics but also for
treatment of like migraine headaches and
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hyperhidrosis, spasticity like um in MS.
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It's used for I think bladder dysfunction.
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It can be injected to
treat palatal myoclonus.
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There are so many therapeutic uses,
but obviously specific to me, I use it
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to diminish the strength or paralyze a
portion of a muscle that is either for
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me pulling down, for my patients pulling
down in a direction that we don't want.
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Most patients want to feel more
lifted for aesthetic treatments
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or to smooth out a wrinkle.
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So like when the muscles are, say for the
frontalis, when you raise your eyebrows
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upwards, it causes a crease in the skin.
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So when you place Botox in an area
that's pulling up and creasing the
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skin, it doesn't pull up anymore
and it smooths out the skin.
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so yeah you can use it preventatively.
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And I see that for patients that are
like on a Zoom, and they say, "Whenever
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I'm like on Zoom, I'm scrunching my
face, and I see the- these 11 lines."
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And they may not have those like clear
demarcated areas, and w- we can use
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it preventatively to make sure that
they don't develop those indentations
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or tho- those wrinkles there.
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And then obviously, whenever I see
static lines, that means somebody
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comes into the office and they're just
sitting there, and they're not making an
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expression, and they just have these lines
that are going across their forehead.
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We can treat them with a little bit
of Botox or just for a neuromodulator
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so that they can either be
smoother or completely go away.
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And I, I usually will tell
patients, who have static lines
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on their face, think about these
lines as wrinkles in a bedsheet.
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You've had a bedsheet that's been
folded up in your closet for months
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on end, and now you're finally
pulling it out to put it on to the
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bed, and you can't expect that those
wrinkles are gonna be smoothed out the
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second that you pull out the sheet.
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00:17:05,665 --> 00:17:08,746
It really takes a little bit of
time of not making that repetitive
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00:17:08,766 --> 00:17:12,306
movement, not creasing the bedsheet,
and having it stretched out over
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00:17:12,306 --> 00:17:15,606
the mattress for those wrinkles to
smooth out, but eventually they do.
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00:17:15,935 --> 00:17:20,146
So that's like how I-- that's my consult
for when I talk to patients about
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treating dynamic versus static lines
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00:17:23,961 --> 00:17:27,300
Kelsy: And for something like forehead
lines, and then you mentioned the
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platysma, where in my head that seems
a little bit more of a, dramatic
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00:17:34,031 --> 00:17:37,121
gravity is like pulling on this area
a little bit more than just like your
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00:17:37,131 --> 00:17:38,971
forehead raising up and the lines there.
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00:17:39,051 --> 00:17:43,571
is there different, levels of
effectiveness depending on the area
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00:17:43,571 --> 00:17:48,471
you're treating, different dosages,
different lengths of time that they
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00:17:48,471 --> 00:17:53,741
might, that neuromodulator might
stay effective or wear off quicker?
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00:17:53,741 --> 00:17:55,511
Does it wear off quicker in certain areas?
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00:17:55,571 --> 00:18:00,941
Is there basically differences in where
and how you use it across the whole face?
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00:18:01,902 --> 00:18:02,072
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
Yeah.
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00:18:02,072 --> 00:18:06,472
So those are really great questions,
and pretty much yes to all of them.
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The areas that tend to wear off quickest
are the areas that get used the most.
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and the areas that have the lowest dosing.
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00:18:14,432 --> 00:18:18,482
So for example, a lip flip, which is
commonly used to paralyze a portion
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of the orbicularis oris here and evert
the tissue on the top lip to show more.
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00:18:24,622 --> 00:18:31,562
Mouth is constantly moving, and because
of your need to speak and kiss and
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drink and sip from a spoon, we don't
wanna over paralyze that muscle.
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So it's a muscle that gets a very low
dose of neuromodulator, and it's gonna
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be in an area that's super active, so
it lasts a very short amount of time.
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00:18:47,982 --> 00:18:52,942
Whereas when we do much higher
doses in muscles like, say, the
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masseters, I find that tends to
stick around for a little bit longer.
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00:18:57,582 --> 00:19:00,322
I have some patients that say that
they feel the effects for almost
237
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six months, which is not necessarily
in line with what the makers say.
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00:19:04,992 --> 00:19:09,512
They say that Botox is supposed to
last 12 weeks, or all of the clinical
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00:19:09,512 --> 00:19:12,992
studies looked at the ramp-up period,
how long the effects last, and when
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patients reported seeing wrinkles again.
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00:19:15,512 --> 00:19:19,512
But I think because the doses are much
higher, you're getting a more sustained
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paralysis, and you're actually weakening
the muscle so that it's not able to be
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00:19:24,062 --> 00:19:25,952
used as strong as it would baseline.
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00:19:25,952 --> 00:19:30,552
So maybe some of those effects are
prolonged, not necessarily because the
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00:19:30,552 --> 00:19:34,622
paralysis is maintained, but you've
actually physically, shrunk the muscle a
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00:19:34,622 --> 00:19:39,312
little bit by not using it, and so you're
not able to grind or bite down as hard.
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00:19:39,572 --> 00:19:45,172
So yeah, I think the length of time
and how paralyzed the area is really a
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00:19:45,172 --> 00:19:49,942
function of how much movement that muscle
has and the dosing that you're using
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to treat it, amongst some other things.
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But yeah.
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00:19:52,903 --> 00:19:54,603
Kelsy: What about other injectables?
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00:19:54,653 --> 00:20:00,383
Do you have other favorite injectables
that you get a lot of, bang for
253
00:20:00,383 --> 00:20:01,993
your buck with your clients?
254
00:20:02,023 --> 00:20:05,253
And what are they, and what
would you use those for?
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00:20:05,683 --> 00:20:06,063
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
So there are lots of
256
00:20:06,063 --> 00:20:08,263
injectables on the market.
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00:20:08,273 --> 00:20:12,563
Most commonly used are
HA-based injectables.
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Those are hyaluronic acid gels.
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00:20:14,843 --> 00:20:18,443
HA is a water-binding molecule
that is naturally present in
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00:20:18,443 --> 00:20:20,043
your skin and connective tissue.
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00:20:20,483 --> 00:20:26,873
And when you talk about or filler,
hyaluronic acid gels and fillers,
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they're all pretty different.
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00:20:28,963 --> 00:20:34,223
They have different firmness, different
elasticity the cohesivity of the gel,
264
00:20:34,223 --> 00:20:37,743
and what they call the lifting capacity
of the gel is all very different.
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I would say that those are, like,
one of the things that I have in my
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tool belt other than biostimulatory
injectables, and those are
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00:20:46,283 --> 00:20:48,693
things like Radiesse or Sculptra.
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00:20:49,069 --> 00:20:53,539
so fillers should be placed
according to the anatomy.
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00:20:53,549 --> 00:20:58,619
So for deep structural support, like in
the cheek and the chin and the jawline,
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00:20:58,879 --> 00:21:03,269
and that can be to give someone an
anatomy that they don't naturally have.
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00:21:03,329 --> 00:21:07,299
So someone who may be contemplating
a chin augmentation, that they h-
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00:21:07,309 --> 00:21:11,819
they're a little bit recessed and
their chin falls behind, the area
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00:21:11,819 --> 00:21:15,439
where they would, maybe the nose is a
thing that projects the most maximally.
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00:21:15,679 --> 00:21:19,449
Those are patients that come to me a
lot of the time and want projection
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00:21:19,459 --> 00:21:22,809
in their chin and improvement of
their appearance from a profile.
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00:21:23,049 --> 00:21:27,129
And HA fillers are really effective,
especially things like Voluma
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00:21:27,129 --> 00:21:30,519
are extremely effective at giving
that type of anatomy to a patient
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00:21:30,519 --> 00:21:31,829
who doesn't necessarily have it.
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00:21:32,289 --> 00:21:35,539
I like them, and I choose to use
fillers in my practice that are
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00:21:35,539 --> 00:21:37,709
reversible, and that's for two reasons.
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00:21:37,719 --> 00:21:40,499
One is an aesthetic one and
the other is a safety reason.
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00:21:40,809 --> 00:21:43,409
And it's mainly because,
these are aesthetic things.
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00:21:43,429 --> 00:21:47,609
as aligned as we can be and as good
as I am at giving someone something,
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00:21:47,659 --> 00:21:51,809
there's something nice about being able
to reverse it, whether that's a patient
285
00:21:51,839 --> 00:21:54,789
just decide "I don't want this in my
face anymore," for whatever personal
286
00:21:54,789 --> 00:21:58,619
reasons, or, maybe somebody says, "I
tried it and maybe I'm glad I tried it.
287
00:21:58,659 --> 00:22:01,639
I thought maybe if I liked this, I
would get a chin implant, but maybe
288
00:22:01,639 --> 00:22:04,999
this is not the right thing for me
aesthetically," and you can dissolve it.
289
00:22:05,289 --> 00:22:07,209
So I think aesthetically,
that's really nice.
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00:22:07,239 --> 00:22:11,579
And the other reason is because with any
of these HA-based fillers, they're meant
291
00:22:11,579 --> 00:22:14,049
to be injected not into the vasculature.
292
00:22:14,059 --> 00:22:19,739
So either on periosteum, above periosteum,
or within the tissue to augment it.
293
00:22:19,829 --> 00:22:23,949
But if there is a rare complication
called vascular occlusion, if the
294
00:22:24,079 --> 00:22:28,059
filler is injected into a blood vessel,
it can block or occlude the flow
295
00:22:28,059 --> 00:22:32,609
through that vessel, and that can lead
to some very serious problems that
296
00:22:32,609 --> 00:22:34,939
require urgent or emergent treatment.
297
00:22:35,169 --> 00:22:38,529
So obviously, when you don't get
blood flow to the tissue, it can
298
00:22:38,659 --> 00:22:40,359
cause the tissue to die or necrose.
299
00:22:40,729 --> 00:22:45,399
So usually these things present pretty
immediately and you need an enzyme called
300
00:22:45,399 --> 00:22:50,129
hyaluronidase to break down the HA-based
filler and restore blood flow to the area.
301
00:22:50,479 --> 00:22:54,309
And I always talk to my patients
about, risk versus benefits for
302
00:22:54,309 --> 00:22:57,029
doing these treatments because
this is not a haircut, right?
303
00:22:57,229 --> 00:23:01,749
It's a true medical procedure, and
someone needs to be affected enough
304
00:23:01,769 --> 00:23:05,119
by their appearance or want to
change their appearance enough that
305
00:23:05,119 --> 00:23:06,679
they're willing to take this risk.
306
00:23:06,689 --> 00:23:11,649
Even though it's extremely rare, I've
never in my practice-- and it's just
307
00:23:11,649 --> 00:23:14,149
a matter of time, because if you've
been doing it long enough, it will
308
00:23:14,149 --> 00:23:17,109
happen, but I've never personally
had an occlusion in my practice
309
00:23:17,389 --> 00:23:21,719
or for me personally, but I have
assisted in dissolving two occlusions.
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00:23:22,069 --> 00:23:28,559
And so you know, it's a, it's-- it can
be scary for patients and for providers.
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00:23:28,559 --> 00:23:31,399
I think the thing that, gives
me comfort is knowing that there
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00:23:31,429 --> 00:23:32,629
is something that you can do.
313
00:23:32,669 --> 00:23:37,577
It is reversible and it is treatable,
and there is a, an algorithm
314
00:23:37,587 --> 00:23:39,287
to manage these complications.
315
00:23:39,297 --> 00:23:43,927
So that's why I personally choose to
use reversible fillers in my practice.
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00:23:44,237 --> 00:23:47,307
So they can be used for obviously
treating deep structural support,
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00:23:47,307 --> 00:23:50,757
like I said, the cheek, the chin, the
jawline, and aging p- the pyriform,
318
00:23:51,657 --> 00:23:53,847
fossa and temporal hollowing.
319
00:23:54,157 --> 00:23:59,157
And then nasolabial folds for more
soft tissue blending and helping
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00:23:59,187 --> 00:24:02,427
blend out some of this line that
you see when the cheek descends.
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00:24:02,857 --> 00:24:06,287
Or areas like the pre-jowl sulcus
where you can start to see a little
322
00:24:06,287 --> 00:24:09,147
bit of jowling and an indentation
that comes in before the chin
323
00:24:09,147 --> 00:24:10,737
just to give a smoother jawline.
324
00:24:11,157 --> 00:24:15,757
Or for things like superficial refinement
in the lips for fine lines and wrinkles
325
00:24:15,767 --> 00:24:19,207
somewhere that are pretty etched in
they can be really powerful tools.
326
00:24:19,907 --> 00:24:24,197
I always say the key is that fillers
should not really simply chase a crease.
327
00:24:25,017 --> 00:24:29,787
a nasolabial fold, for example, may be
caused by cheek descent or midface volume
328
00:24:29,787 --> 00:24:33,837
loss, so it's really important to address
the reason why that crease is occurring.
329
00:24:33,857 --> 00:24:39,047
And only filling a fold or an area
where there is a shadow can make
330
00:24:39,047 --> 00:24:40,857
someone look really heavy and unnatural.
331
00:24:41,177 --> 00:24:44,097
So yeah, those are, in my
opinion, the areas that are
332
00:24:44,097 --> 00:24:45,857
best suited for using filler
333
00:24:46,278 --> 00:24:47,948
Kelsy: I've heard of filler shifting.
334
00:24:48,008 --> 00:24:49,428
W- what is that happening?
335
00:24:49,478 --> 00:24:52,808
I know some people are very cautious
about under-eye filler and things
336
00:24:52,808 --> 00:24:54,228
like that where it can shift.
337
00:24:54,608 --> 00:24:55,958
What is actually happening with that?
338
00:24:56,008 --> 00:25:01,348
Is that HA just moving, HA-based
filler moving somewhere else?
339
00:25:01,728 --> 00:25:03,328
Can you describe that a little bit to me?
340
00:25:03,717 --> 00:25:05,607
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
Yeah, so filler can migrate.
341
00:25:05,877 --> 00:25:11,687
I tend to feel that the fillers that
migrate or appear migrated whether
342
00:25:11,687 --> 00:25:15,207
it's a filler or something else that's
happening, are the ones that draw in
343
00:25:15,207 --> 00:25:19,567
the most water, are injected the most
superficially, and are the thinnest.
344
00:25:19,707 --> 00:25:23,757
That's probably more of my personal
opinion than there's any real guidance
345
00:25:23,847 --> 00:25:26,777
or real evidence to guide me saying that.
346
00:25:26,817 --> 00:25:30,277
But when you classically think of
like poor filler, I think everybody
347
00:25:30,277 --> 00:25:33,757
gets this like image in their head
of I think like Jennifer Aniston
348
00:25:33,767 --> 00:25:36,317
or one of the Kardashian sisters.
349
00:25:36,317 --> 00:25:37,367
I can't remember her name.
350
00:25:37,837 --> 00:25:41,777
But like this area right around the
tear trough that's like really bulky
351
00:25:41,777 --> 00:25:46,907
and large and looks just funny and
strange, and that's more likely than
352
00:25:46,907 --> 00:25:48,937
not because filler was placed there.
353
00:25:49,657 --> 00:25:53,187
may have looked incredible that the
day that it was placed or even for
354
00:25:53,187 --> 00:25:58,077
weeks after that, but shifts in fluid
volume can change how filler appears.
355
00:25:58,307 --> 00:26:01,407
So that filler may provide
great support for her under
356
00:26:01,407 --> 00:26:02,887
eyes, right after it's injected.
357
00:26:02,887 --> 00:26:08,107
But if she has seasonal allergies, she
may be drawing more water to the area.
358
00:26:08,397 --> 00:26:11,417
If the product spreads a tiny bit,
then it's gonna attract water to
359
00:26:11,417 --> 00:26:12,967
that area and make it more apparent.
360
00:26:12,977 --> 00:26:15,877
And the most common place that I
see this is like the lips, right?
361
00:26:16,187 --> 00:26:20,247
Especially when lips are overfilled
and the anatomical boundaries are not
362
00:26:20,247 --> 00:26:24,287
respected, you get migration of filler
outside of the border of the lip,
363
00:26:24,547 --> 00:26:29,487
which gives this really unnatural kind
of shelfed appearance and projection.
364
00:26:29,897 --> 00:26:36,637
And it's worsened, when a patient will
have a meal that is salty or, they just
365
00:26:36,637 --> 00:26:38,887
have a little bit more fluid volume.
366
00:26:38,987 --> 00:26:43,597
I'm pretty sure that my filler got
a, like just felt a little heavier to
367
00:26:43,597 --> 00:26:46,727
me when I was pregnant, just 'cause
I was holding onto so much fluid.
368
00:26:47,047 --> 00:26:50,917
So the real shifts that happen in the
body can make filler more apparent,
369
00:26:51,167 --> 00:26:53,217
whether or not it's migrate, migrated.
370
00:26:53,217 --> 00:26:56,457
So if your filler is like in your lip
but you're pulling more water to that
371
00:26:56,457 --> 00:26:59,457
area, you may see some prominence
around the outside of the lip.
372
00:26:59,457 --> 00:27:01,517
So would say yes and no.
373
00:27:01,517 --> 00:27:05,927
Is migration is it always migration that
people are saying when filler looks bad?
374
00:27:05,937 --> 00:27:06,797
Not necessarily.
375
00:27:06,797 --> 00:27:10,457
Sometimes it's just how the product
is holding onto water and smoothing
376
00:27:10,457 --> 00:27:13,537
it out or dissolving it a tiny bit,
not necessarily getting rid of all
377
00:27:13,537 --> 00:27:15,327
of it can make it appear better.
378
00:27:15,847 --> 00:27:17,447
But yeah, migration is a thing.
379
00:27:17,547 --> 00:27:21,587
I would say like overwhelmingly, if you
respect the boundaries, you're not placing
380
00:27:21,587 --> 00:27:25,997
excessive amounts of filler in the area
and you're respecting the anatomical
381
00:27:27,157 --> 00:27:29,017
filler migration is pretty uncommon.
382
00:27:29,307 --> 00:27:33,587
But there are some things that can
make it happen more than other things.
383
00:27:34,112 --> 00:27:37,162
Kelsy: That makes total sense,
especially with the fluid changes,
384
00:27:37,162 --> 00:27:41,172
especially throughout, like you said,
pregnancy and hydration as we age.
385
00:27:41,192 --> 00:27:42,172
All of those things affect it.
386
00:27:42,172 --> 00:27:43,122
Seasonal allergies even.
387
00:27:43,122 --> 00:27:46,832
I never even thought about all of
those things affecting how it looks
388
00:27:47,362 --> 00:27:49,212
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
my big things that I screen for in
389
00:27:49,212 --> 00:27:53,916
patients is I get patients who come in,
I think under eye filler is overdone in
390
00:27:53,916 --> 00:27:57,886
general, there are other things that you
can do to help treat that area to make it
391
00:27:58,216 --> 00:28:00,456
appear more rested, like your under eyes.
392
00:28:00,526 --> 00:28:04,096
Just treating the medial cheek,
will give support to the under eye.
393
00:28:04,386 --> 00:28:07,616
Going in, just putting filler in there is
never like the first thing that I run to.
394
00:28:07,936 --> 00:28:12,766
But I won't inject someone if they tell
me, "I get really bad seasonal allergies,"
395
00:28:12,796 --> 00:28:17,386
because more likely, especially like
itchy, swollen eyes, because it may look
396
00:28:17,386 --> 00:28:22,836
good when we place it, in the wintertime,
but come spring, their eyes like blow
397
00:28:22,836 --> 00:28:24,826
up and it can be a nightmare to manage.
398
00:28:24,846 --> 00:28:29,156
In the right person, in the right
candidate, it can be a very powerful
399
00:28:29,166 --> 00:28:32,706
tool and it can look great, but in the
wrong person it can look really terrible
400
00:28:33,287 --> 00:28:35,037
Kelsy: Can you talk a little
bit about the difference between
401
00:28:35,097 --> 00:28:36,877
HA and something like Sculptra?
402
00:28:36,887 --> 00:28:40,367
I think you categorize
Sculptra under biostimulator.
403
00:28:40,767 --> 00:28:42,647
How are those different?
404
00:28:42,677 --> 00:28:45,367
How do they work within
our skin differently?
405
00:28:45,437 --> 00:28:49,137
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
So yeah, so HA fillers you can see
406
00:28:49,137 --> 00:28:50,697
immediately when they're injected.
407
00:28:50,707 --> 00:28:52,787
They are a gel that is meant to volumize.
408
00:28:53,707 --> 00:28:59,347
Sculptra and biostimulants, Sculptra
is PLLA, so it's reconstituted in
409
00:28:59,670 --> 00:29:03,970
saline and it's injected, and it
relies on the body's ability to
410
00:29:03,970 --> 00:29:06,240
be stimulated to produce collagen.
411
00:29:06,660 --> 00:29:10,800
So you don't necessarily get an
immediate result from Sculptra
412
00:29:10,850 --> 00:29:12,500
or any of these biostimulators.
413
00:29:12,800 --> 00:29:16,240
Some of them are like Radiesse is,
it has a gel carrier where you can
414
00:29:16,250 --> 00:29:20,290
see some result from it, but that
gel carrier tends to get absorbed
415
00:29:20,400 --> 00:29:21,760
around three mon- like it take…
416
00:29:21,800 --> 00:29:24,790
it peters on out like around
three months post-injection.
417
00:29:25,050 --> 00:29:30,670
But the main difference is that one
is in a naturally occurring, HA is
418
00:29:30,670 --> 00:29:34,510
a naturally occurring thing in your
body and volumizing it immediately.
419
00:29:34,510 --> 00:29:39,050
And the other one, apart from what with
the saline when it's reconstituted,
420
00:29:39,160 --> 00:29:40,610
you don't get an immediate result.
421
00:29:40,640 --> 00:29:44,340
It relies on your body stimulating
collagen and elastin to either
422
00:29:44,370 --> 00:29:49,310
improve the quality of the
skin or to volumize an area.
423
00:29:49,570 --> 00:29:55,130
And I believe that Sculptra was originally
developed to treat HIV patients a long
424
00:29:55,130 --> 00:30:00,000
time ago who had, gauntness in their
face and they wanted to revolumize the
425
00:30:00,000 --> 00:30:01,710
area, and it was incredibly effective.
426
00:30:01,710 --> 00:30:05,260
And then now it's been, I think the
dilution has changed a little bit in the
427
00:30:05,260 --> 00:30:09,610
amount that we do, but now it's really
used for more cosmetic aesthetic purposes.
428
00:30:09,630 --> 00:30:13,840
And it's a really powerful tool, but
it relies, like I said, on your body
429
00:30:13,960 --> 00:30:19,040
producing that collagen and filling
or improving the area over time.
430
00:30:19,583 --> 00:30:23,993
Kelsy: So switching gears a little bit
to lasers and different like energy-based
431
00:30:24,003 --> 00:30:29,653
treatments, describe some of your favorite
lasers and what you might use them for in
432
00:30:29,653 --> 00:30:31,763
clinical practice and who they're best for
433
00:30:31,998 --> 00:30:35,178
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
so lasers are just a huge area, and
434
00:30:35,178 --> 00:30:40,478
I'm gonna try to do it justice in just
a small amount of time and simplify
435
00:30:40,478 --> 00:30:43,948
it because when I started learning
about lasers, I got very overwhelmed.
436
00:30:44,708 --> 00:30:49,058
are so many lasers on the market
and it's really hard to understand
437
00:30:49,088 --> 00:30:52,078
who is best suited for them and
what they're most effective for.
438
00:30:52,368 --> 00:30:55,698
So I like to think of lasers
as like a very specific cloth.
439
00:30:55,808 --> 00:31:00,248
Like different lasers are attracted
to different things in the skin, be
440
00:31:00,248 --> 00:31:04,618
that brown for pigment and melanin,
red for it to treat things like blood
441
00:31:04,618 --> 00:31:09,588
vessels or redness, water in the
skin, which is, when you use a laser
442
00:31:09,588 --> 00:31:13,018
for resurfacing and wrinkles and
texture, that's what it's attracted to.
443
00:31:13,318 --> 00:31:17,828
And heat will also cause collagen
stimulation, which a lot of lasers deliver
444
00:31:17,908 --> 00:31:20,018
heat to the skin or right below the skin.
445
00:31:20,258 --> 00:31:24,988
So the key is really choosing
right laser for the right target.
446
00:31:25,358 --> 00:31:29,258
So for things like your brown
pigment, those are lasers like
447
00:31:29,298 --> 00:31:31,748
pico lasers or Q-switch lasers.
448
00:31:31,788 --> 00:31:37,538
1927 fractional lasers can be good
for it, or even IPL and BBL, which
449
00:31:37,538 --> 00:31:38,908
is, I don't believe a true laser.
450
00:31:38,908 --> 00:31:40,378
I think it's actually just light.
451
00:31:40,408 --> 00:31:43,268
It's that's used to treat
some browns and reds.
452
00:31:43,588 --> 00:31:48,308
And they're good, like I said, for
sunspots, freckles, lentigines sometimes
453
00:31:48,328 --> 00:31:49,988
post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
454
00:31:50,228 --> 00:31:50,768
And like your…
455
00:31:50,898 --> 00:31:54,868
The picos and the Q-switch can pull
out tattoo pigment, which is the
456
00:31:54,868 --> 00:31:58,498
primary laser that's used in all of
these tattoo removal cl- clinics.
457
00:31:58,508 --> 00:32:04,904
So Think of the pigment like
browns and are-- this is the
458
00:32:04,904 --> 00:32:06,404
best lasers to treat them.
459
00:32:06,404 --> 00:32:09,924
They break up the pigment, and your
body clears out that pigment either
460
00:32:09,934 --> 00:32:14,274
by, taking it out internally or it
coming to the surface and flaking off.
461
00:32:15,284 --> 00:32:19,344
category of lasers treat the reds
in the skin, and those are things
462
00:32:19,344 --> 00:32:23,384
that are caused by like rosacea or
broken capillaries, those little
463
00:32:23,394 --> 00:32:27,054
like telangiectasias that people get
around the nose, even like cherry
464
00:32:27,074 --> 00:32:29,394
angiomas, those like little red dots.
465
00:32:29,394 --> 00:32:31,544
I got them all over my
body when I was pregnant.
466
00:32:31,894 --> 00:32:35,934
Some red scars, facial veins can
be treated with pulse dye lasers,
467
00:32:35,934 --> 00:32:39,054
vascular lasers like Vbeam and Excel V.
468
00:32:39,434 --> 00:32:43,894
And they target specifically blood cells
and help collapse them or reduce them.
469
00:32:44,434 --> 00:32:48,204
And then there are the lasers that
are meant to treat things like texture
470
00:32:48,204 --> 00:32:50,124
and pores and fine lines and scars.
471
00:32:50,154 --> 00:32:56,804
And these lasers work by making tiny
controlled injuries in the skin, so that
472
00:32:56,804 --> 00:32:59,584
the skin repairs itself with new collagen.
473
00:32:59,624 --> 00:33:03,444
And there are two kind of
broad types of these lasers.
474
00:33:03,444 --> 00:33:06,984
There's non-ablative, so it spares
the surface of the skin, and
475
00:33:06,984 --> 00:33:10,214
ablative, which means it takes
the surface level of the skin off.
476
00:33:10,214 --> 00:33:13,874
And the non-ablative lasers are things
that a lot of people have heard of.
477
00:33:13,874 --> 00:33:16,894
They are like your Moxie laser,
Clear and Brilliant, Fraxel.
478
00:33:17,144 --> 00:33:20,794
These heat the skin without fully
removing the surface, and they're
479
00:33:20,804 --> 00:33:25,084
great for treating mild texture
and pigment and early aging.
480
00:33:25,444 --> 00:33:28,774
They have like low to moderate
downtime depending on the settings.
481
00:33:29,094 --> 00:33:33,324
And then your ablative fractional
lasers are like your CO2 lasers or
482
00:33:33,324 --> 00:33:37,794
your erbium YAG lasers, and these
remove those tiny columns of skin.
483
00:33:38,124 --> 00:33:44,374
And they're incredibly effective for
deeper wrinkles, acne scarring more severe
484
00:33:44,384 --> 00:33:49,984
sun damage, and like just a really more
dramatic kind of resurfacing effect.
485
00:33:50,324 --> 00:33:53,374
So because they're more effective,
there's more downtime, and because
486
00:33:53,374 --> 00:33:55,064
there's more downtime, there's more risk.
487
00:33:55,064 --> 00:34:01,124
So risks are things like
hyperpigmentation, infections, and so you
488
00:34:01,124 --> 00:34:06,054
really need to select patients carefully
before you just use this laser on anyone.
489
00:34:06,394 --> 00:34:10,543
Fractional lasers induce collagen
remodeling over time, and that usually
490
00:34:10,554 --> 00:34:13,324
peaks around three months post-treatment.
491
00:34:14,174 --> 00:34:17,974
finally, I will say that fractional
resurface lasers also have some evidence
492
00:34:17,984 --> 00:34:22,524
for reducing non-melanoma skin cancers
in high-risk like photo-damaged patients.
493
00:34:23,014 --> 00:34:27,494
So while a lot of patients are doing
these to improve the appearance of
494
00:34:27,494 --> 00:34:30,484
their skin, there are really some
nice health benefits for them.
495
00:34:30,931 --> 00:34:34,152
Kelsy: I think that was the perfect sort
of like overarching description because
496
00:34:34,161 --> 00:34:36,681
it sounds like different wavelengths
affect different parts of the skin
497
00:34:36,681 --> 00:34:40,192
and different depths of the skin and
different colors that you might find
498
00:34:40,192 --> 00:34:42,922
on the skin, whether it's, like you
said, the brown, the or the reds, the
499
00:34:42,922 --> 00:34:44,121
hyperpigmentation, things like that.
500
00:34:44,121 --> 00:34:47,492
And I know it can get very confusing,
but I've heard all of these terms
501
00:34:47,492 --> 00:34:51,902
like BBL and MOXI and all sorts
of these different, energy-based
502
00:34:51,911 --> 00:34:53,362
treatments or light-based treatments.
503
00:34:53,362 --> 00:34:57,242
So I think it was a very helpful sort of
like umbrella perspective of them all.
504
00:34:57,632 --> 00:35:01,672
The other thing I had questions
on was PRP and microneedling.
505
00:35:01,672 --> 00:35:07,715
Where does that all fall within the realm
of aesthetic dermatology and just things
506
00:35:07,725 --> 00:35:09,165
that you can do to improve your skin?
507
00:35:10,393 --> 00:35:12,493
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
Yeah, I'm sure PRP like being
508
00:35:12,493 --> 00:35:15,033
injected for joints, I think.
509
00:35:15,043 --> 00:35:16,923
It's used in other places in the body.
510
00:35:16,923 --> 00:35:18,933
I think there was like some weird…
511
00:35:19,263 --> 00:35:19,723
Not weird.
512
00:35:19,793 --> 00:35:20,513
I shouldn't say weird.
513
00:35:20,573 --> 00:35:22,833
there were some trials maybe
where they were looking at
514
00:35:23,833 --> 00:35:26,763
ovarian like anti-aging purposes.
515
00:35:26,833 --> 00:35:31,553
But it's used like in other places in the
body, which I find, really interesting.
516
00:35:31,863 --> 00:35:38,593
We more commonly use it in hair
restoration and for PRP microneedling
517
00:35:38,593 --> 00:35:40,023
to help stimulate collagen and elastin.
518
00:35:40,953 --> 00:35:44,423
I think there is some evidence
out there to support its use, but
519
00:35:44,423 --> 00:35:48,453
I think the protocols for it are
a little bit lacking personally.
520
00:35:48,663 --> 00:35:52,383
I think there's more evidence there
for hair restoration, both with
521
00:35:52,413 --> 00:35:54,513
microneedling and PRP injections.
522
00:35:54,773 --> 00:35:58,473
But there's some data to support
that it, it helps improve
523
00:35:58,473 --> 00:35:59,973
the results of microneedling.
524
00:36:00,213 --> 00:36:04,843
Microneedling works similarly to lasers,
that it's creating these columns or these
525
00:36:04,873 --> 00:36:09,443
areas of trauma within the skin, and the
hope is that the body, tries to heal that
526
00:36:09,503 --> 00:36:14,793
area and fill it in with new collagen and
elastin, so it remodels things over time.
527
00:36:15,093 --> 00:36:18,653
And then I explain to patients
that by putting PRP in there,
528
00:36:18,673 --> 00:36:22,093
in theory, that you're putting
in all of the growth factors or
529
00:36:22,133 --> 00:36:25,943
platelet-rich fibrin or platelet-rich
plasma, whatever, is being used.
530
00:36:26,033 --> 00:36:30,093
It is meant to put in growth factors
so that it stimulates collagen
531
00:36:30,093 --> 00:36:31,523
and elastin a little bit better.
532
00:36:31,783 --> 00:36:36,773
I still think there's a lot of work to
be done in that area just to standardize
533
00:36:36,783 --> 00:36:38,903
protocols to have the best outcomes.
534
00:36:39,203 --> 00:36:44,953
But, all this pointless in my
opinion if are not doing the basics.
535
00:36:44,953 --> 00:36:47,823
So collagen is degraded by UV exposure.
536
00:36:48,113 --> 00:36:51,263
The biggest mistake I see people making
is that they come, and they get their
537
00:36:51,263 --> 00:36:55,133
PRP microneedling facials, and then
I see on their Instagram stories they
538
00:36:55,133 --> 00:37:01,063
are at the beach in full sun, for the
entire day not applying sunscreen.
539
00:37:01,073 --> 00:37:04,493
And it kills me inside because what's
the point of doing all of these things
540
00:37:04,743 --> 00:37:07,963
if you're just going to go then do
the things that degrade your collagen?
541
00:37:08,203 --> 00:37:09,803
So I think they're nice.
542
00:37:09,823 --> 00:37:14,073
They're a nice tool to help support
and slow the aging process, and I think
543
00:37:14,083 --> 00:37:17,493
in the next coming years, hopefully
we will see lot better evidence
544
00:37:17,493 --> 00:37:19,493
for them in terms of the protocols.
545
00:37:19,743 --> 00:37:22,223
But, they're just one of
the tools in your tool belt.
546
00:37:22,884 --> 00:37:26,011
Kelsy: What about any sort
of non-invasive treatments?
547
00:37:26,031 --> 00:37:29,641
I'm even thinking something like, I don't
know if this is considered non-invasive,
548
00:37:29,641 --> 00:37:31,731
but like gua sha and dermaplaning.
549
00:37:31,851 --> 00:37:32,281
What…
550
00:37:32,381 --> 00:37:33,741
Where do those fit into things?
551
00:37:33,791 --> 00:37:37,981
Are those over-hyped, or is there
some merit to actually some of
552
00:37:37,981 --> 00:37:40,531
those non-invasive treatments
or any other non-invasive ones?
553
00:37:40,885 --> 00:37:43,085
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
Listen, I think they, the most
554
00:37:43,145 --> 00:37:44,675
part, they do very little harm.
555
00:37:44,745 --> 00:37:48,485
If it's something that you enjoy
to do at home, by all means do it.
556
00:37:48,735 --> 00:37:52,495
I think supporting the lymphatic
system is incredibly helpful.
557
00:37:52,525 --> 00:37:55,285
It's something that you have to be pretty
consistent with and make a part of your
558
00:37:55,285 --> 00:37:57,355
lifestyle if you like the results from it.
559
00:37:57,805 --> 00:38:00,715
I, used to work with Shelly Marshall.
560
00:38:00,755 --> 00:38:06,275
She's Beauty Shamans on Instagram, and
she used to inject, She said she was a
561
00:38:06,275 --> 00:38:11,205
person who started doing my Botox when
we worked together as nurses, and she
562
00:38:11,255 --> 00:38:17,145
stepped away from injectables and really
went full in on these holistic methods to
563
00:38:17,455 --> 00:38:23,965
treat congestion in the skin like acne and
to help the different layers of the skin.
564
00:38:23,965 --> 00:38:27,045
And she primarily does that
through things like gua sha.
565
00:38:27,375 --> 00:38:32,265
And I think there's a lot of mixed
information out there about it,
566
00:38:32,285 --> 00:38:37,355
but from a scientific standpoint,
you'll always benefit from
567
00:38:37,355 --> 00:38:39,175
supporting your lymphatic system.
568
00:38:39,255 --> 00:38:43,165
So I don't think there's any downsides
to it, and if, somebody is seeing
569
00:38:43,175 --> 00:38:47,945
benefits from it, I tell the patients
to keep doing it, the exception that,
570
00:38:47,995 --> 00:38:52,655
patients who do have facial fillers
need to be careful about really not
571
00:38:52,655 --> 00:38:56,845
doing anything super aggressive to
manipulate the tissues of the face if
572
00:38:56,845 --> 00:38:58,625
we've injected filler in that area.
573
00:38:58,875 --> 00:39:00,155
So that's my kind of one caveat for it.
574
00:39:01,215 --> 00:39:03,165
Dermaplaning is n- I mean it's nice.
575
00:39:03,165 --> 00:39:06,235
It's a nice treatment to lift
off some dead skin cells off of
576
00:39:06,245 --> 00:39:08,025
the very top surface of the skin.
577
00:39:08,305 --> 00:39:12,085
And it can shave off that
peach fuzz, which is nice.
578
00:39:12,085 --> 00:39:14,655
It helps makeup lay a
little bit more smoothly.
579
00:39:14,915 --> 00:39:17,885
So I think if you enjoy the
results from it, definitely do it.
580
00:39:17,885 --> 00:39:21,995
There's, low risk to it, with the
exception that I think some patients may
581
00:39:21,995 --> 00:39:26,485
get congested get some skin congestion and
breakouts from dermaplaning just because
582
00:39:26,485 --> 00:39:30,445
it can cut the hairs, and then those can
get a little bit stuck underneath the
583
00:39:30,455 --> 00:39:34,895
skin, or it can cause these superficial
kind of openings in the surface of the
584
00:39:34,895 --> 00:39:36,705
skin that can make patients break out.
585
00:39:36,995 --> 00:39:41,635
So you know, see somebody who's qualified
to do it or if you're doing it at home,
586
00:39:41,645 --> 00:39:44,575
really, understand the process to do it.
587
00:39:44,575 --> 00:39:47,765
I tend to not advocate too much
for doing things at home that are
588
00:39:48,435 --> 00:39:51,755
borderline medical procedures just
because of the risk for infection.
589
00:39:51,775 --> 00:39:55,955
But I say there are like few downsides
to it if patients wanna try it.
590
00:39:56,311 --> 00:39:59,411
Kelsy: And then lastly, I know we've
talked a lot about face, a little bit on
591
00:39:59,411 --> 00:40:00,671
the neck, and you mentioned the hands.
592
00:40:00,691 --> 00:40:02,761
But do you see…
593
00:40:02,841 --> 00:40:04,681
Where do you see this
field going in the future?
594
00:40:04,681 --> 00:40:08,111
Is there anything that you're like,
"Okay, I have a feeling this is going to
595
00:40:08,121 --> 00:40:11,311
be even trendier in the future," or…
596
00:40:11,361 --> 00:40:17,371
I'm thinking one of my goals in 2026 was
taking better care of my full body skin.
597
00:40:17,381 --> 00:40:20,071
I feel like I've had a pretty
good skincare routine in the
598
00:40:20,071 --> 00:40:23,951
face, and I prioritize a lot of
different things for the face.
599
00:40:23,951 --> 00:40:26,431
But I was like, the skin's the
largest organ in the body, and I'm,
600
00:40:26,431 --> 00:40:29,291
like, prioritizing maybe 5% of it.
601
00:40:29,291 --> 00:40:32,031
I am not putting that focus
on the rest of my body.
602
00:40:32,031 --> 00:40:36,751
So in my head I'm like m- I
selfishly wonder, are any of these
603
00:40:36,761 --> 00:40:39,731
things that we talked about today
gonna apply, do you think, in the
604
00:40:39,731 --> 00:40:41,291
future to your full body skin?
605
00:40:41,291 --> 00:40:45,021
Or what are some of the other things that,
that we can watch out for in this realm
606
00:40:45,021 --> 00:40:47,671
that you think are just now up and coming?
607
00:40:48,987 --> 00:40:49,247
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
Okay.
608
00:40:49,467 --> 00:40:51,797
So yes, to full body skin health.
609
00:40:51,877 --> 00:40:53,547
I think this…
610
00:40:54,027 --> 00:40:57,597
Patients already understand
face skincare for the most part.
611
00:40:57,647 --> 00:41:01,967
I'm not doing as much basic level
educating when patients come into
612
00:41:01,967 --> 00:41:04,507
the office about like skincare
and what they should be using.
613
00:41:04,847 --> 00:41:09,217
But like the future I think really is the
neck, the chest, the hands, arms, knees.
614
00:41:09,217 --> 00:41:11,337
Like patients are starting
to notice their knees.
615
00:41:11,647 --> 00:41:17,477
And like postpartum for me, my abdomen was
something that I really started to about.
616
00:41:17,677 --> 00:41:21,117
And especially with the use of GLP-1s,
I think post weight loss skin quality.
617
00:41:21,477 --> 00:41:25,547
And the same biology that applies to your
face applies to the rest of the body.
618
00:41:25,547 --> 00:41:31,367
So I think we'll be seeing a focus
on other areas come up a lot more.
619
00:41:31,647 --> 00:41:36,317
I think patients are also very interested
in, and I think the field is shifting
620
00:41:36,337 --> 00:41:38,747
towards more bio-simulatory treatments.
621
00:41:39,137 --> 00:41:39,817
The…
622
00:41:39,987 --> 00:41:45,127
there's really a focus on less filling
and more restoring tissue behavior and
623
00:41:45,127 --> 00:41:49,697
simulating collagen and elastin and
helping along wound healing because all
624
00:41:49,697 --> 00:41:54,097
of these treatments that function by
creating a wound in the skin, whether
625
00:41:54,097 --> 00:41:59,797
that's a laser or microneedling, are
only as effective as how you heal.
626
00:41:59,797 --> 00:42:03,907
And so if you're not babying the
skin and really guiding the skin
627
00:42:03,907 --> 00:42:08,287
to heal truly better than what it
was before, you're doing yourself a
628
00:42:08,287 --> 00:42:11,977
disservice and you're not reaping all
of the benefits of that treatment.
629
00:42:12,317 --> 00:42:17,257
And I think we'll see patients really
trying to manage inflammation, getting
630
00:42:17,337 --> 00:42:21,557
in- like inflammatory processes
under control because you can see
631
00:42:21,557 --> 00:42:22,877
the effects of that in the skin.
632
00:42:23,377 --> 00:42:27,977
I also think there will probably be
a shift towards better skin imaging
633
00:42:27,977 --> 00:42:31,937
diagnostics whether that's like just
plain photography in the office, but
634
00:42:31,957 --> 00:42:37,537
the use of ultrasounds in office to
make treatment safer, so imaging blood
635
00:42:37,537 --> 00:42:40,497
vessels so that when we're injecting,
we know we're, that we're in a safe
636
00:42:40,497 --> 00:42:45,627
territory, and also to aid in the
reversal and management of complications.
637
00:42:45,627 --> 00:42:49,187
I think there's still a lot
that can be done to improve it.
638
00:42:49,197 --> 00:42:54,217
And when it comes to medical things, I
used to work in radiology a long time ago.
639
00:42:54,417 --> 00:42:58,777
But if I was doing a paracentesis or
a thoracentesis to drain fluid off of
640
00:42:58,777 --> 00:43:03,067
somebody because they had an accumulation
in the abdomen, yeah, you can do that-
641
00:43:03,725 --> 00:43:06,545
Quote, unquote, "blind," where you
place a needle in and drain the fluid.
642
00:43:06,545 --> 00:43:09,915
But there are blood vessels and
bowel and all sorts of things that
643
00:43:09,915 --> 00:43:13,075
are in the way that by just doing
it blind, you don't necessarily see.
644
00:43:13,075 --> 00:43:17,235
And I think in aesthetics, we function
by knowing the anatomy, but going in
645
00:43:17,235 --> 00:43:19,825
blind without using any diagnostic tools.
646
00:43:19,825 --> 00:43:24,255
And I think because now in hospital
you're imaging with ultrasound before you
647
00:43:24,255 --> 00:43:27,715
stick someone to make sure that you're
in the right area, you're not gonna nick
648
00:43:27,745 --> 00:43:32,345
bowel, like for a paracentesis, and I
think that, that will be a shift that
649
00:43:32,345 --> 00:43:34,255
slowly makes its way into aesthetics.
650
00:43:34,635 --> 00:43:39,135
For whatever reason, I think because
these are aesthetic medical procedures
651
00:43:40,025 --> 00:43:42,455
there hasn't been, that drive to do it.
652
00:43:42,505 --> 00:43:46,735
And I hope for me as a provider we
now, like at my practice, have an
653
00:43:46,745 --> 00:43:50,495
ultrasound in office, but I hope that
will be a shift for the industry.
654
00:43:51,355 --> 00:43:55,525
then lastly, probably just
like a less one face fits all.
655
00:43:55,635 --> 00:44:00,658
I think aesthetic medicine in general
is moving away from just doing
656
00:44:00,658 --> 00:44:06,578
the same thing to every patient and
shifting towards really respecting every
657
00:44:06,578 --> 00:44:12,458
individual's anatomy, ethnicity obviously
sex because male proportions are very
658
00:44:12,458 --> 00:44:15,998
different than female proportions, but
a lot of males were being feminized
659
00:44:16,368 --> 00:44:20,438
because they needed volume repletion
in their cheeks, but they were-- but
660
00:44:20,438 --> 00:44:22,618
injectors them like a female cheek.
661
00:44:22,988 --> 00:44:27,418
And I think there will be more respect
for hormonal state, whether that's,
662
00:44:27,468 --> 00:44:32,888
around the time that women are pregnant
because, there are a lot of real
663
00:44:32,888 --> 00:44:35,428
changes that happen around that time.
664
00:44:35,498 --> 00:44:39,678
And then perimenopause and then obviously
weight changes with all of these GLP-1s.
665
00:44:39,678 --> 00:44:43,968
I think treatments are gonna be a lot more
tailored to all the fluctuations that are
666
00:44:43,968 --> 00:44:48,658
happening because of either life cycle
or the stage that, that people are at or
667
00:44:48,708 --> 00:44:50,908
the lifestyle that people are adopting.
668
00:44:50,968 --> 00:44:55,258
Everybody is now like drinking way
less alcohol and hopefully eating
669
00:44:55,268 --> 00:44:57,928
healthier and maintaining, better weights
670
00:44:58,358 --> 00:45:03,658
Kelsy: I think that individualized nature
of how someone is looking and not having
671
00:45:03,658 --> 00:45:07,358
this copy-paste for every patient also
feeds back into that imaging and that
672
00:45:07,408 --> 00:45:10,148
being on the forefront of imaging because
it's like the more you're able to see and
673
00:45:10,158 --> 00:45:13,178
actually tell, the more individualized
you're gonna be able to make some of those
674
00:45:13,548 --> 00:45:15,638
treatments probably is my assumption too
675
00:45:16,557 --> 00:45:18,387
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
Yeah and I always say, when you go
676
00:45:18,387 --> 00:45:22,887
to inject someone you can be the
most trained plastic surgeon and
677
00:45:22,897 --> 00:45:26,507
have dissected the face and know
all the planes and know exactly
678
00:45:26,507 --> 00:45:32,737
where is based off of your training,
but anatomical variants are real.
679
00:45:32,747 --> 00:45:37,077
That artery 95% of the time runs
in this direction, in this plane,
680
00:45:37,077 --> 00:45:41,307
at this level, but in another
percentage of patients it does not.
681
00:45:41,317 --> 00:45:46,507
And so when you inject and you
don't use image-based guidance, you
682
00:45:46,517 --> 00:45:52,187
are making a statistical decision
minimizing the risk, and I think
683
00:45:52,187 --> 00:45:56,187
those tools will help providers
and patients, have better results.
684
00:45:56,887 --> 00:46:00,677
And obviously, the last thing is that
there's gonna be this strong shift,
685
00:46:00,917 --> 00:46:05,507
I think for me personally, not making
patients look wildly different.
686
00:46:06,657 --> 00:46:08,107
like that's always been my philosophy.
687
00:46:08,147 --> 00:46:16,107
My approach is really to understand
which layer is aging and help, help
688
00:46:16,117 --> 00:46:20,777
that along and not necessarily change
the way somebody looks drastically.
689
00:46:21,167 --> 00:46:25,867
So the best aesthetic work is
like not about chasing trends.
690
00:46:25,877 --> 00:46:31,757
It's about preserving patient's identity
while improving or restoring some aspect
691
00:46:31,767 --> 00:46:35,247
of the age- that has been affected by
the aging process, whether that's skin
692
00:46:35,247 --> 00:46:39,827
quality proportions, or like the way
that light reflects off of the face
693
00:46:40,297 --> 00:46:43,687
Kelsy: I had a professor who once
described certain changes, bony
694
00:46:43,687 --> 00:46:46,437
changes that happen within our knees
and joints, like you might have,
695
00:46:46,467 --> 00:46:48,337
degenerative discs or arthritis, whatever.
696
00:46:48,617 --> 00:46:50,647
He described them like
laugh lines on the face.
697
00:46:50,647 --> 00:46:51,987
It's a sign of a life well-lived.
698
00:46:51,997 --> 00:46:54,317
He'd say that, and I feel like
you said, a lot of people are just
699
00:46:54,317 --> 00:46:58,207
starting to embrace that aging process
and trying to maintain a lot of the
700
00:46:58,217 --> 00:47:00,297
things that make them who they are.
701
00:47:00,587 --> 00:47:03,257
And like you said, not trying to
have a 50-year-old look like a
702
00:47:03,257 --> 00:47:06,437
20-year-old, but actually embracing
who they are at that stage of life.
703
00:47:06,437 --> 00:47:11,437
And I really am grateful to, to be
in this time where I'm noticing all
704
00:47:11,437 --> 00:47:14,647
of these women who are, a few decades
older than me starting to embrace that
705
00:47:15,663 --> 00:47:17,543
Claire Schwegel Del Signore, DNP, FNP-BC, MS, RN:
Yeah, there's, we- my husband and I
706
00:47:17,543 --> 00:47:19,493
just took a trip to Japan recently.
707
00:47:19,503 --> 00:47:22,783
We had to go he had a conference
in Singapore, and we decided
708
00:47:22,783 --> 00:47:24,143
to make a big trip out of it.
709
00:47:24,373 --> 00:47:28,703
And one of the philosophies in Japanese
culture is something called wabi-sabi,
710
00:47:28,963 --> 00:47:33,463
and it really touched me it has to do
with really the appearance of things
711
00:47:34,203 --> 00:47:35,893
and how they look from being used.
712
00:47:35,903 --> 00:47:40,513
So like even a dish that has fallen
and broken that's been pieced back
713
00:47:40,513 --> 00:47:45,313
together, it's like very honored
to see all of the lines and the
714
00:47:45,383 --> 00:47:51,723
imperfections in that item because it
gives meaning and history to that thing.
715
00:47:51,723 --> 00:47:55,783
That a bouquet is not like perfectly
round and every flower is at the exact
716
00:47:55,783 --> 00:48:00,753
same spot on the left and right, but
really to embrace nature and the way that
717
00:48:00,753 --> 00:48:06,053
nature made us, which can seem a little
bit in the field that I'm in, right?
718
00:48:06,103 --> 00:48:08,603
W- your patients don't wanna
embrace their wrinkles.
719
00:48:08,913 --> 00:48:12,143
But at the same time, like there
are certain things that are very
720
00:48:12,143 --> 00:48:14,633
defining to patients' faces.
721
00:48:14,633 --> 00:48:18,273
I always say like each individual
is uniquely beautiful in their
722
00:48:18,293 --> 00:48:23,653
own way, and my job is really to
highlight that and to do that honor
723
00:48:23,673 --> 00:48:25,413
and not remove it and change it.
724
00:48:25,863 --> 00:48:30,363
So a- and that goes for everything,
my husband has like this gap between
725
00:48:30,363 --> 00:48:32,933
his teeth, and I think it's the
most attractive thing about him.
726
00:48:32,933 --> 00:48:36,463
I love it, and the dentist, every time
she sees him, is "Hey, do you want us
727
00:48:36,463 --> 00:48:38,233
to do Invisalign and close that gap?"
728
00:48:38,473 --> 00:48:42,993
So you know, a little part of what I do
is also giving patients the confidence
729
00:48:43,003 --> 00:48:47,643
to embrace the things that make them
uniquely them and find beauty in that.
730
00:48:47,773 --> 00:48:49,273
Kelsy: I think that's
the perfect place to end.
731
00:48:49,303 --> 00:48:51,313
I learned so, so much today.
732
00:48:51,763 --> 00:48:53,803
Just I had so many questions coming in.
733
00:48:53,803 --> 00:48:56,763
And I had told you I was very excited
to learn all of this because you hear
734
00:48:56,763 --> 00:48:58,273
all of these key terms and phrases.
735
00:48:58,293 --> 00:49:00,413
and I'm like, "Okay, but I
need to understand how they
736
00:49:00,413 --> 00:49:02,703
actually affect, the skin."
737
00:49:02,703 --> 00:49:06,833
And it's not just as
easy as we think it is.
738
00:49:06,833 --> 00:49:08,553
The skin is a very complex organ.
739
00:49:08,553 --> 00:49:12,303
So I appreciate you coming on, chatting
through all of it today, answering all
740
00:49:12,303 --> 00:49:14,273
of my, possibly elementary questions.
741
00:49:14,293 --> 00:49:17,373
But I learned so much, and I
know everyone else did, too.
742
00:49:17,373 --> 00:49:21,743
So I will leave all of Claire's links
below if you happen to be in NYC and
743
00:49:21,743 --> 00:49:24,603
want to book with her at Vollure Medical,
or just follow her on social media.
744
00:49:24,603 --> 00:49:26,183
I learn so much from her there, too.
745
00:49:26,423 --> 00:49:29,223
I'll see you guys again on the next
episode of Wellness Big Sis The Pod.