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WELCOME TO OUR KITCHEN: Tessa Kiros, Author of NOW AND THEN
Episode 188th January 2024 • Cooking with Bruce and Mark • Bruce Weinstein & Mark Scarbrough
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We've got a packed show with travel, memoir, recipes, food tips, the whole works.

We're veteran cookbook authors Bruce Weinstein & Mark Scarbrough. We've got three dozen published titles under our (ever widening) belts. We've sold nearly one and a half million books in our career. And we're still ready to talk more about food.

On this episode of COOKING WITH BRUCE & MARK, we've got a one minute cooking tip about complimenting the cook. Bruce interviews Terra Kiros, the author of NOW AND THEN, a food and travel memoir with recipes, based on her extraordinary career. And we'll tell you what's making us happy in food this week: pastrami and a vegan Bakewell tart.

Here are the segments for this episode of COOKING WITH BRUCE & MARK:

[00:51] Our one-minute cooking tip: compliment the person who has cooked for you.

[03:56] Bruce's interview with Tessa Kiros, legendary author about her new memoir and travelogue with recipes, NOW AND THEN.

[24:46] What’s making us happy in food this week: pastrami and a vegan Bakewell tart, thanks to Philip Khoury.

Transcripts

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Hey, I'm Bruce Weinstein and this is the podcast cooking with Bruce and Mark.

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And I'm Mark Scarborough and together with Bruce we have written three

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dozen cookbooks, are writing the 37th, we have sold almost a million

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and a half copies of cookbooks.

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books over here at one eight New York publishers.

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It sounds like bragging, but it's just kind of astounding to both of us.

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Neither of us ever thought this career would go in the direction it did.

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We hoped that we would publish a few cookbooks, never imagining we

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would publish this many, but this is our podcast about food and cooking.

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It includes a one minute cooking tip.

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Bruce has got an interview with Tessa Kuros.

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She's the author of the new book now and then, and we'll let you know.

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What's making us happy in food this week.

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So let's get started.

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Our one minute cooking tip today is not so much about cooking as it is

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about eating and it's about eating with people and it's about being nice.

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Isn't that the reason you cook is to eat?

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Maybe not.

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So here's the tip.

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compliment the cook.

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Oh, it doesn't matter if you don't.

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That's with an eye, right?

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And never say nice things.

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Not stand next to like compliment within the cook.

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Like be a part of the cook's world.

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Say nice things.

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Nice things.

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It doesn't even matter if you don't like the food.

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Someone took time from their day to plan, shop and put together a meal for you.

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to enjoy.

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I'm going to say about this, that Bruce has most of the cooking in our

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house and I make sure that I thank him for dinner every night sometime.

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I, I, do I do it every single night?

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No, I probably forget.

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I probably get lost in some stupid TV streaming series and I get lost in it or

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I get lost lately in, I don't know, crazy things like salt burn and I maybe forget,

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but mostly I try to thank him every night for dinner sometime during the night.

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Even if he doesn't like it.

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When do I not like it?

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I'm just saying,

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the point is, even if you don't like it, You have a when

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do I not

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like it?

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You say thank you, always.

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I mean, yes, there are a few things that you like that I don't.

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And this is a long standing thing.

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And now here comes the confession on our part.

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podcast.

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It's going to make the time go much longer for this woman to cooking dip.

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But I don't like, Oh gosh, ground beef or what we called loose meat.

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When I was a child, I do not really like much ground beef.

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I like hamburgers, but they're dead raw.

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I, in other words, what I'm telling you is I don't like meatloaf.

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So, um, Bruce does like meatloaf a lot, and I'm happy when he cooks it.

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Once a year, I make meatloaf.

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Oh, it's more than once a year, but it's fine.

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It's absolutely fine.

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Ah, will it kill me to eat it?

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Absolutely not.

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He still says thank you.

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I do.

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I still say thank you, even for meatloaf.

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I prefer meat.

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balls.

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But that's a whole different matter entirely, but mostly

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ground meat and I are not friends except dead raw and hamburgers.

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So there you go.

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That's our one minute cooking tip, which got into personal narrative and I don't

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know crap about our relationship, but tons of stuff anyway, let's pass on

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to Bruce's interview with Tessa Kuros.

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But before we do.

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Let's just say that it would be great if you could rate this podcast.

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If you could write a review of it, even great podcast or nice banter or

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whatever, something easy like that does an amazing thing for the analytics.

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We are unsupported in this podcast.

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We do it.

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On our own and on our own effort.

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We have chosen to keep it that way.

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So we would love for your help in supporting the podcast.

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And that is the primary way you can do it.

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Okay.

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Up next Bruce's interview with Tessa Kuros.

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She's the author of the new travelogue memoir recipe book.

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Now and then

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I'm speaking with Tessa Kiros.

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She's a food writer originally from London.

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Now she lives in Tuscany with her family.

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She has worked in restaurants around the world and Tessa has written 11

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books about the foods from Italy and Greece and she has a beautiful

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new book out called Now and Then, a collection of recipes for always.

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Welcome Tessa.

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Thank you for having me.

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I love that you write in your book right up front, you talk about

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your kitchen and you say there is no method here, just familiarity.

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What do you mean by that?

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You know, when you're sometimes invited to cook in another kitchen or something

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and you don't know where the knives are and the sense of your own kitchen at

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home without having to ask anybody where anything is, it's just incredible to me.

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So, I mean, if I'm looking for the cumin in my spice box, I know

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exactly which corner it is in, even if I've turned the basket around.

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And I can, I can, I can do it blindfolded.

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I can take out all the spices I need to make.

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a dish.

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And that sense of familiarity is incredible.

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But it takes a certain, you know, it takes a little bit of time to

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create your kitchen like that.

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And especially when you make something many times and you use five or six

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different herbs or spices for a dish, you, you put them back sort of in the same way

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so that the next time you make the dish.

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You know, where to reach for your, for those spices, you know, where you're

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measuring spoons are, your wooden spoon, and things that actually make

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the task so much easier in cooking.

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Your book is full of delicious recipes, but it's also full of surprises.

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I mean, many cookbooks start off with breakfast, but you chose to start off

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First recipe in the book, beautifully crisped oven roasted lamb chops.

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Why start the book off there?

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You know, sometimes I put things in the book which are not necessarily obvious to

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others, but it's a special detail for me.

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So my first chapter in the book is called Things That Stay, and the ones that

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have stayed with me and that I carry with me, and I love to make them always.

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I will always love to make them.

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So, the first recipe is my mother's sippy, her lamb chops

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that she made when I was young.

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And I thought how wonderful it is to start off a book with my mother, who

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gave me life, and to finish the book off in the roses chapter with a recipe from

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my father, George's Feel Good Rose Tea.

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So, for me, it was a question of.

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Encasing the alpha and the omega, the, the, the beginning of everything and

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encasing it all in, in between that embracing everything in between that,

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that was a little gift to myself and to my mom, if she noticed and, and

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to my dad, I don't know if they have no, that no one has mentioned it.

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You're the first person that has mentioned it.

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Well, you write in the headnote of that recipe that this often

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at your mom's was breakfast.

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That's also a bit of a surprise.

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Yes, it is.

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And that was, uh, something that a few of my friends remembered that

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I think I wrote somewhere in the book that they would arrive at my

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house having had their breakfast.

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And my mom would be there saying, hurry up and finish your breakfast, which would be.

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It would be anything, sometimes some oatmeal, or other times it

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would be leftovers from the night before, which I think is great fun.

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And I actually found her one day with my, with my daughters when they were small.

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And I came home and I said, Oh, Cassiel Yasmin must be hungry.

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And it was like six or seven o'clock in the evening.

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I said, no, they're not hungry because I've just given them porridge.

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So there you go.

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She doesn't have a strict schedule.

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And it actually is a wonderful thing to do.

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You know, sometimes now when I don't know what to have for dinner, a bowl of oats.

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With maple syrup

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is a beauty.

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I love breakfast for dinner.

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And dinner for breakfast.

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In some places, even in Thailand.

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If you go to Thailand, you can have anything for breakfast.

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So I like the idea of not being set in my ways.

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And as long as, you know, you're eating good food and enjoying

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yourself, I think everything is great.

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Tessa, there's a welcoming feeling behind so many of the recipes in your book.

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Even if we don't know exactly what something is, it still feels familiar,

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like your warm Malva pudding cake.

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It looks like something we know, but so many American cooks have

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probably never heard of this.

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So what is it and why do you find it so comforting?

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I

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like that particular pudding because I think it reminds us all

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of, you know, like a hug in a bowl, something that is warm and sweet.

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that'll just make you feel good.

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So that recipe for me reminds me of a time sitting outside in South Africa

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with a fire going, sometimes lucky enough to be on a safari or watching out

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for wild animals early on in the day.

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So I have a memory of that.

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I try to share the feeling and the context.

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Can you describe what is a Malva pudding?

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It's a, it's a cake actually.

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So something similar to, let's say, a sticky toffee pudding or a

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mixture between a pudding and a cake.

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So it has some unusual ingredients.

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It has vinegar and also a little bit of apricot jam.

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Now, I love the randomness of that.

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It makes me think that probably somebody was making it and they just had a couple

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of these things around and you don't necessarily taste any of those things.

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So I have said, in fact, you know, use Apricot jam or any other jam

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that you like, because I don't like to restrict people too much

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unless it's absolutely necessary.

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The one thing that I am strict about over there is the size of the dish

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because If you use a bigger dish, it's going to become a lot flatter.

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So if anything, use a smaller dish, although I don't think

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you can get much smaller than my dish that I use over there.

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Now, while the cake is baking, you make a warm caramel toffee sauce

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that I put a couple of tablespoons of whiskey in and cream is added to that.

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And when the cake comes warm out of the oven, poke holes with a skewer all over

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it and then immediately pour this hot sauce over it, which you think this is

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never going to absorb all of the sauce.

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But it does.

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You can even hold back a little of it and serve it on the plate.

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It's lovely warm, but even not that completely cooled down, I must say.

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That sounds like an amazing breakfast.

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It does.

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I think I'll try it for breakfast.

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It comes out a really cute, small cake with this welcoming,

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as you say, qualities about it.

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And I think, you know, you can have a tiny piece or you can have a bigger piece.

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Go back for seconds.

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Tessa, your book is filled with gorgeous salads and fresh vegetable dishes.

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How important are vegetables to your daily cooking?

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I love any kind of vegetable or salad, and I feel to me sometimes

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that a meal is almost incomplete without a salad or a vegetable.

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I feel like I cannot get enough of them.

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So this book of mine actually is about the way that I'm eating these days.

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So I'm not a vegetarian.

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But as you will see that chapter two, nowadays.

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This is taking everybody's changing dietary needs into account, you

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know, like people that have got a bit more of a gluten intolerance or

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trying to cut down on a bit of dairy.

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So I think at least let's mix in these things.

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Let's filter them slowly into our lives and have this as the

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bulk of what we are eating.

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In that chapter, you have a recipe for grilled asparagus and artichokes

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with goat cheese and lemon.

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That is a dish I think I could eat every day.

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Yeah, me too.

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Is there another vegetable dish that you could eat every day?

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I can eat all of them every day.

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Those salads, for example, the summer salad, even in winter.

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And there is the green plate, which I absolutely love,

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which is just a collection of boiled or steamed vegetables.

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And of course everybody can use whatever they like.

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And I just love the play on color.

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It's just all green.

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So I have it garnished with fresh mint and basil.

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And it has a dressing of avocado, tahini, and it's just beautiful.

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I can, I can put that on anything and I use any vegetables over there.

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So if you don't have seasonal things that I've mentioned in there, use anything.

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Do it with just one vegetable or even over just a green salad.

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But for me, I cannot get enough for me.

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A plate like that is a dream bowl, a dream platter mixture of vegetables

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with avocado, lemon tahini.

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And I think that many people would agree that.

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It's difficult to, to top that.

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You have two daughters who are grown now, but they grew up in Europe.

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And I want to ask, were they picky eaters?

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And do you have advice for parents who face that dilemma?

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Yes, they were picky eaters, I must say.

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My, my eldest daughter, Yasmin, the 25 year old, at the age of five, decided that

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she was shocked about the food chain when she got home from nursery school one day.

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And she decided to give up eating meat completely.

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So at the age of five, I was thrown into trying to get proper nourishment and, and,

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and not knowing the way to go about it.

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So at that time, that was quite tricky.

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And she, she still loved the taste and the smell of meat of certain kinds of meat.

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But she was, it was an ethical reason.

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So she was, she's not a vegetarian any longer, but she's still very picky.

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About things like that.

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So I respected that and I went along with her on everything and I tried

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with whatever I could to make sure that she was getting the best nourishment

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and that she was enjoying her food.

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And my younger daughter, Cassia has never liked when she was small.

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Texture in food.

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So if we were having a soup, like an astronomy, she would

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always want hers pureed.

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So I did, I always encourage to go along with.

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With the different tastes of people, because we all have different tastes.

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Some people might grow out of them.

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Children might grow up to them.

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Some might not, I would say, don't worry about it.

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And the other thing I used to always tell them was listen to your stomach and listen

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to yourself about what you want to eat.

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One day Yasmin put her ear close to her stomach and she said to me, Hey mom.

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My tummy is telling me, oh, I think it needs some chocolate.

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And I thought that was really, really special.

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But I think that we do need to listen to ourselves because we're so far

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pushed often out of tune to things like finish everything that's on your plate.

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I never did.

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I never did that.

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I never do that.

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Because I think even if there is a little bit left, you can repurpose it.

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Somebody else might still be hungry in your family that

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might want a scoop of that.

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Um, I just think that we should listen to our bodies.

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carefully and listen to the other people to what they're telling you,

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which is exactly what I was referring to before about the nowadays chatter.

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Somebody comes along and says, I'm less tolerant these days, or I want to leave

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out some milk for now, or some gluten.

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What can we do?

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We need to be armed with picks and things.

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So when my children were small, I would also, you know, put food in colors

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on their plate and they responded well to that, or they like to see

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the initials in, in, in something.

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So where I could make a pie and, and make a little flower or an initial, their

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initials on it, they like to be included in as far as they're interested to go.

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And so the other thing that I always do is I often put food on the table that

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everybody can build their own, whether it be a souvlaki or a taco or a sandwich or.

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Anything that people can take from the middle and add as much as they want.

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And then they feel like they have contributed.

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Tessa, there's a thread of East Indian flavors that run through

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your book, from chapati to mango pickle, uh, to chickpea chole, a

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thick tomato gravy with chickpeas.

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Where does your love of exotic flavors come from?

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Well, I think it comes from having a mixed background, first of all,

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which is, you know, we always had a totally mixed background.

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So I was born in London.

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My mom is from Finland.

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My dad is Greek Cypriot.

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Uh, I grew up in South Africa and I live in, in Tuscany now.

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So my love of travel and of different cultures is, I

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think, comes a lot from that.

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And what, the one thing that I always knew while I was at school, I didn't

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have a very clear idea of what I would be studying, but I knew, the one thing

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that I knew is that I wanted to travel.

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So as soon as I finished school in South Africa, I left and I, I

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settled to travel at the same time doing a correspondence degree.

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And the subjects that I chose were anthropology, sociology, some science

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of religion, so Buddhism, Hinduism.

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So these were the things that interested me.

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At the same time, I was working in a kitchen in London, first

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in London, and then in Greece.

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And then I spent some time in New Orleans, as you'll see that chapter of

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New Orleans in my book, which I was just.

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Passing by and realized that the jazz festival was on, so I decided

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to stay there and stop and learn.

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So in the same way, my interest in Asian, Asian cuisine, so I have

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a chapter on Thailand in there, India, I'm particularly fascinated.

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I think it is one cuisine that literally can sustain the spices

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and the abundance of spices, and particularly how the vegetarian dishes.

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are addressed in India and the joy of color and the spices.

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So for me, that is something that I always follow.

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And it's such a, a mixture of, of, of things.

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And at the same time, it's balancing and grounding.

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And I find it incredible.

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I'm very, very drawn to those flavors.

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Your global view of food, as you say, took you to New Orleans, Thailand, Mexico.

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Is there a common thread throughout these different cuisines that attracts you?

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Is there a flavor thread or an approach to food that you find

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similar throughout the world?

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I don't think that there is one culture that I find less interesting than another.

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I'm interested in the way that people from a place cook.

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So, for me, my greatest joy It's to be in a country with somebody from the

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place cooking the way that they do, because I think that there is so much

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in that and it's the way that they choose what they're going to make.

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It's the way, you know, when, when I'm in Italy, I watch my mother in law making

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her tomato or her, her ragu or something.

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And they have a certain method in the way they do it, whether it is the

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generous use of olive oil in Italy.

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Whereas in another country, like in Finland, that doesn't, that's not an

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inherent given that all of all will be so readily available everywhere.

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So the way that people use the things that they have been brought

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up with and what is so readily available to them and the things that

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they know, the familiarity of it.

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I find is what inspires me tremendously.

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And that takes us back to where we started talking about the

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familiarity of your own kitchen.

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There's something about being able to produce beautiful food

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when you're familiar with the ingredients, with your environment.

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I also talked about the surprises in your book.

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There's a dish that surprised me.

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And it's in the part of the book where you say what you would love most or

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miss most if you were to leave Italy.

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And you offered up a recipe, something I've never experienced, red wine risotto.

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Tell me about the dish.

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The only place I've ever really tasted it, I think, is from my father in law, who

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Was a, an incredible chef and a sommelier.

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So he came round one day to our house and he said he was making the

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red wine risotto and he bought his particular wine that he wanted to use.

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And I do say in there, make sure that, you know, it's a good rounded bordering on

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sweet kind of wine, not a dry, you know, use something that you love the taste of.

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And it's important also to let wine.

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to add it slowly and let it absorb completely.

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So it's not just going to be like a boiled wine dish.

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You know, it needs to absorb each little bit that you put in it, let it go slowly.

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So there's very few ingredients in the dish, onions, risotto,

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rice, salsiccia, and the red wine.

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So those ingredients have to be amazing.

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And then of course, afterwards it's the butter and the Parmesan

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that is added at the end, the slow process of making the risotto.

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It's something that I was surprised by myself, and I thought, wow,

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what is this simplicity over here?

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But the Italians are masters at that, taking something, making

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it so beautiful, uncomplicated.

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And, you know, the way they spread out their food as well,

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so they would maybe serve that.

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That sounds like a lovely sort of wintery dish to me.

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And then maybe they would have a meat as a second course.

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rather than putting everything all together in one dish.

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You know, they have a lovely way of, of that.

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And I was surprised about that dish too.

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And, and we all love it.

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My daughters have loved it.

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It's, you know, it's not just a dish that you need to acquire.

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You end your book with a few things you're obsessed with.

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And Mark and I end the podcast with.

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Things that make us happy in food this week.

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So tell me what are you obsessed with?

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That's making you happy in food this week.

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Well as I happen to be in greece It's the it's the greek flavors at

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the moment that i'm obsessed with so there's like there's the little sugar

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dusted biscuits Which i'm going to go out and look on the road over here.

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They sell corn on the grill There is souvlaki, which I always love and always

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look for the beautiful lemons in greece the pistachio nuts sour cherry preserves.

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Sour cherries is a big obsession of mine.

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You can find it everywhere in Greece.

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This is a little sour cherry preserves and they have, they like

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to serve those to a guest, even one on a plate with a glass of water.

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I love noticing the little details the way that people actually serve.

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Greece is very open and sharing and wonderful and

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also always full of surprise.

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Tessa Kiros, your love of food and love of life and travel comes

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through in every recipe of your book.

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Your new book is out and called Now and Then, a collection of recipes for always.

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Great.

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Good luck with the book and thank you for sharing some of your thoughts

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about food and travel with me today.

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Thank you for this wonderful conversation.

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I think I want to have lived her life.

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She has kind of a charmed life.

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She grew up all over the world.

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She's gotten to do everything she's wanted with food.

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She got to be creative.

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Her kids have grown up in an environment that, man, so many

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kids would want to grow up in.

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I

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know.

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It's crazy.

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We, uh, Bruce and I, uh, got to go to Madrid earlier in the, well, late in

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2023, but earlier in this time span.

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So a couple months ago.

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We got to go to Madrid and we walked around Madrid thinking,

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Oh my gosh, we should live here.

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We do this everywhere.

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We go to Amsterdam and think, Oh gosh, we could, we should live here.

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Anyway, apparently she did it.

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She had to go anywhere she wanted and said, Oh, I got to live there.

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And she creates beautiful food.

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I mean, a lot of books come out about people's travels and their life with food,

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but there's something about her recipes that are so genuine and her, the way she.

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Just treats eating is so wonderful that I, I had to speak with her because I

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just am impressed with the way she cooks

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before we get to the last segment of this podcast.

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What's making is happening in food this week.

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I just want to remind you that Bruce is also a knitter.

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He sells patterns on Ravelry.

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If you're a knitter, you know what that is.

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He sells them on his Transcribed by https: otter.

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ai own website, which you can find there.

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And he's got a couple of books out, one including Knits Men Want, a way that

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you can actually make sweaters that people will wear or that the men in

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your life, I should say, would wear.

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I have a ton of sweaters from that book.

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You're wearing one right now.

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I'm wearing one right at this second as we're recording this podcast.

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So you might want to check out.

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Bruce's knitting work, which is his side hustle alongside all of

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this cookbook and food career.

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Let's go on to what's making us happy in food this week.

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It is pastrami, and I have always, I have always loved pastrami.

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I mean, when I was a kid, we would go to deli masters in Flushing

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on Horace Harding Boulevard, and it was always the same thing.

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I would get a pastrami sandwich on rye.

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Grossed everyone out because I didn't use mustard.

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I dipped ketchup.

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No!

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Each bite was dippin ketchup.

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Oh my god, you Have we talked about this on this podcast?

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My mother, uh, when I was a kid, if you put ketchup on a hamburger,

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my mother's response was, I raised you better than that.

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Well, I didn't like mustard as a kid, but here's the thing.

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So, it's recently been New Year's Eve.

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If you've, if you're listening to this when this first goes

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up, it's just a week ago.

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If you're listening later, well, it was more than that.

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And I decided to make a big Jewish buffet food extravaganza for

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friends, which included a pastrami.

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Now, I used to have a shortcut trick for pastrami.

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I would buy a corned beef in the supermarket, and I would coat it

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in pastrami slices, I would coat it in pastrami spices and smoke it.

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This time I got a fresh brisket from a local farm, I put it in a

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brine for seven days to make my own pickled brisket or corned beef, then

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I coated it in mustard and coriander and pepper, then I smoked it, then

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I steamed it, and boy, was it good.

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Wow, it was amazing.

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And we did eat it with mustard.

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I even ate it with mustard, until the leftovers, and then I went to ketchup.

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Oh, no, no, no.

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I grew up in Dallas, and we always went for pastrami sandwiches to But I have to

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say that, uh, we never called it pastrami.

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We always called it hot pastrami.

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Like it was one word, hot pastrami, hot pastrami sandwiches.

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And I didn't, I didn't even know the procedure thing is called pastrami because

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we ordered hot pastrami sandwiches.

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Anyway, it was some kind of exotic variety of pastrami, hot pastrami.

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But okay.

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What's making me happy in food this week is also something

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that happened at New Year's.

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Dinner and that was a vegan Bake well tart from Philip

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Cory's book, A New Way to Bake.

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If you are a listener to this podcast, you have heard Philip Cory on this podcast.

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He's the head pastry chef for Herod's in London.

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He has a book out called A New Way to Bake, and just to say, this book

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includes a QR code for every single recipe in it in which you can launch

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out to a video, and he is then making that recipe in the video.

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Based on that QR code for each one.

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Well, anyway, this is a vegan Bakewell tart.

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It had an olive oil cookie crust and raspberry jam,

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and then a vegan frangipane.

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Cream.

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It was really amazing.

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I ate my whole piece even after pastrami.

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It was delicious.

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I loved it.

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Even after your hot pastrami.

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Even after my hot pastrami.

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I even asked Bruce to make it again.

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It was a really amazing vegan dessert.

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I know vegan after all that knish and tong and pastrami and chopped liver.

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All that stuff we had.

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Gosh, uh, gout is running high in our family this week.

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So that's our podcast about what's making us happy in food this week.

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We are thrilled that you're along for the ride.

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Thanks for being with us.

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We hope that you'll subscribe to this podcast, that you'll rate

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it, like it, do all those things that help support this podcast.

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And otherwise, we're always happy to have you back here.

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And don't forget to go to our Facebook group, Cooking with Bruce

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and Mark, where we post videos and sometimes some questions and

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sometimes giveaways of our books.

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So go to Cooking with Bruce and Mark on Facebook and like us there.

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And we'll see you here for another episode of Cooking with Bruce and Mark.

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