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Fried Chicken, Our One-Minute Cooking Tip, An Interview With Susan Jung, Suze, Smoked Salmon & More!
Episode 10110th July 2023 • Cooking with Bruce and Mark • Bruce Weinstein & Mark Scarbrough
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Fried chicken. There must be as many ways to make this U. S. favorite as there are people in the U. S. who still make it.

We've written quite a few recipes for fried chicken. We're veteran cookbook authors Bruce Weinstein & Mark Scarbrough. Lately, we've been all into air-frying chicken. You can check out some of our recipes by clicking on THE ESSENTIAL AIR FRYER COOKBOOK, THE INSTANT AIR FRYER BIBLE, and THE LOOK & COOK AIR FRYER BIBLE.

Come along with us as we explore the world of fried chicken, not only through our own experiences but also with Susan Jung, author of the new book KUNG PAO AND BEYOND. We've also got a one-minute cooking tip. And we tell you what's making us happy in food this week.

Thanks for spending time with us! Here are the segments for this episode of COOKING WITH BRUCE & MARK:

[01:26] All about fried chicken from our cooking adventures and our lives

[11:55] Our one-minute cooking tip: If you don't weigh your ingredients for cookies, bake one cookie first to understand how your dough cooks.

[14:04] Bruce's interview with Susan Jung, author of the brand-new Kung Pao And Beyond.

[28:27] What’s making us happy in food this week? Suze and tinned smoked salmon by Fishwife Tinned Fish Company

Transcripts

Bruce:

Hey, I'm Bruce Weinstein and this is the Podcast

Bruce:

Cooking with Bruce and Mark.

Mark:

And I'm Mark Scarborough.

Mark:

And together with Bruce, we have written three dozen cookbooks

Mark:

at eight New York publishers.

Mark:

How is that even possible?

Mark:

We're good since new, since 1999.

Mark:

Unbelievable.

Mark:

And we have a new book coming out this fall of 2023.

Mark:

They'll look and cook Air Fryer Bible.

Mark:

If you listen to this podcast, you know all about it.

Mark:

125.

Mark:

Easy recipes for the air fryer with 704 photographs.

Mark:

It is available on every platform right now of our pre-order, if you're

Mark:

interested, that would be spectacular.

Mark:

Makes a great Christmas gift when paired with an air fryer and

Mark:

it's, it's out in early November, just before the Christmas season.

Mark:

Great Hanukkah gift.

Mark:

Great.

Mark:

Qu give great winter solstice gift.

Mark:

Can I give you other reasons to buy it?

Mark:

All those reasons.

Mark:

To set in your pre-order so it arrives when it can, but we're

Mark:

not talking about air frying.

Mark:

Much.

Mark:

We will.

Mark:

A little bit.

Mark:

A little bit cuz we're gonna talk about fried chicken, which

Mark:

does involve air frying a bit.

Mark:

It can, it does.

Mark:

We're gonna have a one minute cooking tip as he is traditional.

Mark:

Bruce is gonna interview Susan Jung, the author of Kung p and Beyond,

Mark:

and we're gonna talk about what's making us happy in food this week.

Mark:

So let's get started.

Bruce:

When you talk about fried chicken, you gotta talk about,

Bruce:

oh my god, the best, the better.

Bruce:

And even the better, better, best.

Bruce:

Because even bad fried chicken is good fried chicken.

Mark:

No, no it's not.

Mark:

You didn't grow up in the south.

Mark:

No, it is not.

Bruce:

Oh.

Bruce:

Is there anything better than fried chicken?

Mark:

No.

Mark:

See, here's my thing.

Mark:

Bruce grew up in New York in a half kosher home, and I grew up in the south and see,

Bruce:

wait, what?

Bruce:

Half of my home was kosher?

Bruce:

Half that.

Bruce:

Eight bacon grand.

Bruce:

Your father's parents.

Bruce:

Oh yeah.

Bruce:

That wasn't my home.

Bruce:

But fa hash over fam.

Bruce:

Half kosher family,

Mark:

half kosher family.

Mark:

And your aunt.

Mark:

Still is kosher.

Mark:

Yes, she is.

Mark:

Anytime you say bacon, Bruce like hits the ceiling and goes crazy.

Mark:

Oh my god.

Mark:

Bacon.

Mark:

I grew up in the south, so it's like, uh, bacon.

Mark:

Yeah.

Mark:

Uh, I don't have to go nuts.

Mark:

It's just bacon.

Mark:

Like, don't you have that every day of your life?

Mark:

So I think he's got the same thing about fried chicken.

Mark:

How fried chicken?

Mark:

I, we

Bruce:

had fried chicken.

Bruce:

Look, I think

Mark:

there are bad fried chicken out there.

Bruce:

We never ate KFC.

Bruce:

But there was a,

Mark:

I can tell you this, southerner never, I have never.

Mark:

Ever eaten kfc.

Bruce:

When I was a kid, there was a place near our house that May,

Bruce:

it was called Chicken Delight.

Bruce:

Okay.

Bruce:

And if you're listening and you grew up in Queens and you knew about

Bruce:

Chicken Delight, you can join me in my exaltation of chicken delight

Bruce:

on our Facebook group cooking.

Bruce:

And Bruce and Mark, they would deep fry this chicken without.

Bruce:

Any batter without anything on, they would like throw the chicken in the deep fryer

Bruce:

and it was just golden and delicious.

Bruce:

We would get buckets of chicken delight and the really nice thing is they would

Bruce:

also throw spars in the same fryer.

Bruce:

Oh my God.

Bruce:

And we would get buckets of fried spars.

Bruce:

Oh my.

Bruce:

And God.

Bruce:

Buckets of chicken delight.

Mark:

We, oh yeah.

Mark:

I grew up in Dallas, as you probably know if you've listened to the podcast.

Mark:

And we went to a place called Young Bloods, and it was a place that just

Mark:

served fried chicken in my head.

Mark:

Head.

Mark:

It was all you can eat.

Mark:

It was a sitdown restaurant, wasn't it?

Mark:

Fast food.

Bruce:

How many toilets did they have in that place?

Bruce:

If it's all you can eat fried chicken,

Mark:

what I re mostly remember is we would go there after church on Sundays

Mark:

and the line to get into young Buds.

Mark:

This tells you how old I is am because if you are from Dallas or around

Mark:

there and you know what young Buds is, you know exactly how old I am.

Mark:

The line to get in was forever.

Mark:

I remember we would stand in that line in the.

Mark:

Summer heat for forever.

Mark:

That restaurant, I don't food at all.

Mark:

It, it's not worth it.

Mark:

Listen, great fried chicken is great fried chicken.

Mark:

Now let's talk for a minute about air frying chicken, because does

Mark:

it make great fried chicken, fried chicken in the air fryer?

Mark:

And I think it does.

Mark:

But an air fryer is not the same as deep fried chicken.

Mark:

There's not gonna be the oil water transfer that happens with deep

Mark:

frying, but there are ways to make it.

Mark:

Better, and we've discovered one of the ways to make air fried

Mark:

chicken closer to deep fried, right?

Bruce:

When you make really good fried chicken, you want

Bruce:

to have a little bit of a wet.

Bruce:

Coating on it, like people do it in buttermilk or even barbecue sauce.

Bruce:

But to do it in the air fryer, you can't put a wet coating in there.

Bruce:

It'll blow off with the hot air blowing.

Bruce:

So I don't think,

Mark:

I don't think we knew that until we started writing a million air fryer books.

Mark:

Yeah.

Mark:

That wet coatings, they either, the fan is so strong in the air fryer, they

Mark:

either blow off or they get wagley.

Mark:

Mm-hmm.

Mark:

And uneven.

Mark:

And then those waves that it makes are.

Mark:

Raw underneath the big waves and then dried out in the middle.

Bruce:

So what you do is you take the chicken out of the buttermilk

Bruce:

or whatever liquid you had it in, and then you toss it in flour.

Bruce:

Yeah.

Bruce:

Now here's the trick though.

Bruce:

You can't just put that right in the air fryer because that blowing

Bruce:

hot air will dry out that flour.

Bruce:

It'll stay white, it'll be disgusting.

Bruce:

You have to still give it some fat, so then you have to still spray it.

Bruce:

With oil, whether it's aerosol, non-stick spray, or a pump spray, and you have to

Bruce:

let the flour soak up with oil, right?

Bruce:

Then you put in the air fryer, so right, you're still getting some fat.

Bruce:

It's not quite as much, right?

Bruce:

But you can actually get a good fried chicken in the air fryer that way.

Mark:

Now, let me say that I grew up eating fried chicken every Sunday,

Mark:

not just at Young Buzz, but in the, when I stayed with my grandparents,

Mark:

they were still making fried chicken my grandmother, every Sunday after

Mark:

church, and I stayed with them.

Mark:

A long time.

Mark:

Every summer.

Bruce:

And my, she wouldn't go to the store and buy her

Bruce:

chicken though, would she?

Mark:

Well, no, when I was really young, no, those were slaughtered chickens.

Mark:

Uh, but the, what she would do, my grandmother, is that she pan fried

Mark:

chicken, which means she would put pans on the stove, and I'm talking

Mark:

like three skillets, four skillets.

Mark:

She would add.

Mark:

Crisco.

Mark:

It was Crisco into the skills, but only about an inch deep

Mark:

of it when it was melted.

Bruce:

It's also shallow frying rights.

Bruce:

It's called?

Mark:

Yeah.

Mark:

Shallow pan frying.

Mark:

And then she would put all the chicken in a giant paper supermarket bag.

Mark:

And trust me, we're feeding like 13, 15 people here.

Mark:

She would put all the chicken in a giant paper supermarket bag.

Mark:

She would add flour, salt, pepper, m paprika, shake it, shake it, shake it,

Mark:

shake it, shake it, and then pick it.

Mark:

Up out of the flower and make it go into the pan.

Mark:

So there was no wet batter involved.

Mark:

She didn't use a wet.

Mark:

Interesting.

Mark:

And she didn't marinate.

Mark:

Mm-hmm.

Mark:

Ever.

Bruce:

And to, well she just killed those chickens.

Bruce:

You don't need to.

Bruce:

That was fresh and juicy and delicious.

Mark:

My recollection, a little bit bloody there.

Mark:

My recollection is that that is the finest fried chicken ever.

Mark:

And I would do this thing as a kid.

Mark:

It would, the platter would go down in the middle of the table and everybody

Mark:

would grab a piece, you know, when it was hot and all this kind of stuff.

Mark:

And, I would take a leg.

Mark:

I like drumsticks as a kid and I would take a leg, but then mostly what I

Mark:

wanted is that everybody threw their bones back on that platter and I would

Mark:

pick up all their bones and clean them.

Mark:

Used food you're knowing, unused I, but they would leave the best part.

Mark:

They would leave the cartilage fry on it, getting everybody's backwash.

Mark:

It's my relatives, what I care.

Mark:

I would eat.

Mark:

All of the little bits of the ends of the wings.

Mark:

Oh, I just thought that was the best thing ever.

Mark:

And I would leave the bones in the middle of the platter just

Mark:

clean because they would sit there and then talk all afternoon.

Mark:

Oh, it's a whole thing.

Mark:

They would talk all afternoon, pull down the shades, and because my

Mark:

grandmother believed that only Jews made wine, That was worth tasting.

Mark:

Oh, testament.

Mark:

They pull down the shades lest anyone see them.

Mark:

Get out a bottle of Mo David and sit around the table drinking Mogan David.

Mark:

And while I clean chicken bones for like two hours.

Bruce:

So there you go.

Bruce:

Why does that sort of sound like Woody Allen?

Mark:

I'm not living under a rollercoaster and the, the, the cyclone is not going

Mark:

over my bedroom, so it's not quite woody.

Bruce:

Okay.

Bruce:

So your grandmother didn't brine it, but no, a lot of people brine

Bruce:

their chicken cuz it keeps it juicier and it's actually pretty salty.

Bruce:

That's why I love kosher chickens.

Bruce:

Cuz they're pre-B Brian.

Bruce:

Yeah.

Bruce:

And they're very salty.

Bruce:

So if you want to brine your chicken, it doesn't just have to be a salt solution.

Mark:

Right.

Mark:

It could be.

Mark:

Any marinade, any salty solution, but not just salt and water.

Bruce:

Well, sometimes salt and water is all you need, and basically it's one

Bruce:

and a half tablespoons of salt to every cup of liquid, whether that's water or

Bruce:

apple juice, or even if you're using buttermilk, put a tablespoon and a half

Bruce:

of salt in the buttermilk and let it sit.

Bruce:

That will help brine it a little bit and make it even juicier.

Mark:

There's an osmosis reaction that goes on here, but let me say

Mark:

that if you're using kosher chickens for any reason, Or your chicken says,

Mark:

injected with a solution on the label.

Mark:

Do not do this salting trick because this, the chicken will

Mark:

end up Yeah, way too salty.

Mark:

Modern chickens, processed chickens in supermarkets are often.

Mark:

Injected with a solution, which means that they're essentially injected with saline.

Mark:

So just be careful.

Mark:

But Bruce is right, even if you use just barbecue sauce mm-hmm.

Mark:

As your marinade.

Mark:

And by the way, let me, uh, put you in a plug for that, that you marinate

Mark:

the chicken in barbecue sauce.

Mark:

Mm-hmm.

Mark:

And then you coat it in flour and then you fry it.

Mark:

It's delicious.

Mark:

But, Again, um, let me say that, that you should add salt unless you're working

Mark:

with kosher chickens or injected chickens.

Bruce:

Another interesting addition to that marinade or that brine, is

Bruce:

to put ounce or two a vodka because

Mark:

we all know we, we actually got this idea from.

Bruce:

Kenji Lopez Alt.

Mark:

That was his, that was his trick, right?

Mark:

I couldn't think.

Mark:

Yes.

Mark:

Kenji Lopez, this is his trick, and it's actually kind of genius

Bruce:

because when you boil alcohol, well, alcohol boils at a

Bruce:

lower temperature than water, right?

Bruce:

So the alcohol in that marinade is going to . Boil off before

Bruce:

the water in that marinade

Mark:

burst off

Bruce:

almost like Tempura.

Bruce:

So what it does is it creates more air bubbles in the skin and in the,

Bruce:

the batter and make it crispier.

Bruce:

So a little alcohol gives you bubblier crispier skin.

Bruce:

So if

Mark:

he, so just to clarify this, if he were, let's say, soaking his

Mark:

chicken insulted buttermilk mm-hmm.

Mark:

He would then add an ounce of vodka.

Bruce:

Of vodka to every cup of the buttermilk.

Bruce:

Interesting.

Mark:

Mm-hmm.

Mark:

And then, and, and then that way that vodka kind of blows off in the hot oil.

Mark:

It creates crispier bubbles.

Mark:

And let me also say, if you know anything about frying chicken,

Mark:

the oil, you need, uh, thermometer to determine its temperature.

Mark:

You do not want that oil to drop low.

Mark:

Mm-hmm.

Mark:

And by low, I mean below three 20 Fahrenheit, you just

Mark:

don't want it down there.

Mark:

You want it up at 340 350 360 right along.

Bruce:

Follow the recipe, whatever the recipe tells you, use it.

Bruce:

But later on I'm interviewing someone who's an expert fried

Bruce:

chicken, and she gives me some tips about the oil and the heat.

Mark:

Okay, great.

Mark:

All right, so we'll save that then about the oil until we get to her.

Mark:

Before we get to the next segment of this podcast, let me say, as I

Mark:

always do that we have a newsletter.

Mark:

It comes out about two times a month.

Mark:

About that.

Mark:

You can sign up by going to our website, Bruce and mark.com, or that is m a r

Mark:

k or cooking with Bruce and mark.com.

Mark:

I, as I always say, will tell you that I have locked it so I can't see your email.

Mark:

You can unsubscribe at any moment.

Mark:

By dropping to the bottom of one of our emails and pushing the unsubscribe

Mark:

button, I've set it up so that the provider, MailChimp can't see your

Mark:

email and I can't see it, so it can't be sold and put on other mailing lists.

Mark:

If you'd like to note more about that, find out about it on our website.

Mark:

And again, the content there is disconnected from this

Mark:

website and from our cookbooks.

Mark:

Sometimes it's just about our life.

Mark:

Sometimes it's about recipes.

Mark:

Sometimes it's about knitting, because Bruce is a big knitter.

Mark:

It's about all different kinds of things.

Mark:

Okay, up next, our one minute cooking tip.

Bruce:

Unless you weigh your ingredients when you're making

Bruce:

cookie dough, your dough is never gonna be the same way twice.

Bruce:

Right?

Bruce:

Right.

Bruce:

Because when you scoop a flour right, you're never gonna get the

Bruce:

same amount of flour in that scoop.

Bruce:

Exactly the same amount, right?

Bruce:

Unless you weigh it.

Bruce:

So let's say you don't wanna weigh it, you're one of these people

Bruce:

say, no, I'm not gonna weigh it.

Bruce:

So you never know what your dough's gonna do when it gets into the oven, right?

Bruce:

Cuz it might be a little denser, it might be a little wetter.

Bruce:

So here's the tip.

Bruce:

Bake one single cookie first.

Bruce:

That way you'll know how it does at your given temperature in your

Bruce:

given time, and so you don't burn it or underdo it, and then you'll know

Bruce:

exactly how that batch needs to adjust in time or temperature with cooking.

Mark:

Interesting.

Mark:

There's all kinds of theories out there on the internet about.

Mark:

Butter and temperatures of butter and flour and sugar and

Mark:

what makes a better cookie.

Mark:

But this is all in case you're not weighing, which is basically

Mark:

our US listeners in case you're not weighing and you're working.

Bruce:

So the other tip is weigh by volume.

Bruce:

The other tip is weigh, but if you're not gonna weigh, then cook one cookie first.

Mark:

I'm, I'm gonna extend this one minute cooking tip too long, but let me

Mark:

just say that we were in discussions with our publisher for a brand new book, and

Mark:

one of the things I'm most excited about, In that new book, is that all the recipes,

Mark:

it has nothing to do with air frying and nothing to do with instant possible.

Mark:

If not, wow.

Mark:

Amazing.

Mark:

I know.

Mark:

Crazy and I don't wanna see too much because we're, this is early parts

Mark:

of negotiations, but every recipe would be by both weight and volume,

Mark:

which makes me so happy because I just want us to start weighing things.

Mark:

I saw a kid on TikTok, it's all kids on TikTok, right?

Mark:

I saw a kid on TikTok the other day, say, and may I say I was took.

Mark:

Great umbrage at this.

Mark:

He said, can we all just agree that when the boomers die

Mark:

off, we can finally go metric?

Mark:

And I was like, um, dude, I wanna go metric.

Mark:

This old man wants to go metric.

Mark:

So don't just think it's the boomers.

Mark:

I am dying to go metric.

Mark:

Okay, off that and off our one minute now, 700 minute cooking tip, and onto

Mark:

Bruce's interview with Susan Jung.

Mark:

She's the author of the Brand New Cookbook, Kung Pow and Beyond.

Bruce:

Today, I'm so excited.

Bruce:

I'm speaking with Susan Jung.

Bruce:

She was the food and drinks editor for the South China

Bruce:

Morning Post for almost 25 years.

Bruce:

She is now the food columnist at Vogue China.

Bruce:

We're speaking with her in Hong Kong.

Bruce:

She has a new book out called Kung Pow and Beyond Fried Chicken Recipes

Bruce:

from East and Southeast Asia.

Bruce:

Welcome, Susan.

Susan:

Thank you.

Susan:

I'm so glad to be here.

Bruce:

Fried chicken in the US usually means one of two things.

Bruce:

Buttermilk marinated, bone in pieces, flour coating, shallow fried.

Bruce:

Or it's fast food, deep fried white meat, chicken fingers, but fried chicken

Bruce:

looks very different throughout Eastern and southeastern Asia, doesn't it?

Susan:

It's very different and we use so many different ingredients and, and

Susan:

they can be used in so many different ways and so many different combinations.

Susan:

There's.

Susan:

Certain ingredients that are similar to different cultures like fish sauces used

Susan:

in Vietnam, in Thailand, in certain parts of China, but the way that they use fish

Susan:

sauce in each country makes it taste uniquely Thai or Vietnamese or Chinese.

Susan:

So it's.

Susan:

To me, it's a very in interesting area of the world to be covering.

Bruce:

What's your personal relationship with fried chicken like?

Bruce:

Are there any family favorite ways to make it?

Susan:

Well, it's actually the first dish that I learned to make

Susan:

because my mother made really good fried chicken that my brothers and

Susan:

I just called mom's chicken wings.

Susan:

So I've loved fried chicken since I was young and when I

Susan:

moved away, you know, to go to.

Susan:

University.

Susan:

I called my mother and I said, how do I make these dishes?

Susan:

You know, certain dishes like steamed fish and you know, cooked vegetables

Susan:

or tiny style vegetables, and also this fried chicken that she used

Susan:

to make and that we loved so much.

Susan:

So I've loved it since I was young.

Susan:

And when I used to write my food column for the South China running post,

Susan:

I had to actually stop myself from writing a lot of fried chicken recipes.

Susan:

I love fried chicken so much that I would write.

Susan:

So many different recipes for it.

Susan:

And, and I didn't want to be repetitive.

Susan:

I didn't want people to say, well, I, I don't like the fried chicken,

Susan:

so therefore I'm not gonna make this.

Susan:

Why are you making so many fried chicken dishes?

Susan:

But then one of my colleagues said, Susan, you know, your fried chicken

Susan:

recipes do really well online.

Susan:

And I said, joke.

Susan:

He said, why don't you write a book on fried chicken?

Susan:

And I, I thought, what a great idea.

Susan:

So that's what I did.

Bruce:

Tell me about your mom's fried chicken that, that

Bruce:

captured your palate so much.

Susan:

I kept asking her, where did you find this recipe?

Susan:

You know, it's, it's very unusual, and she said she cannot remember where she got it.

Susan:

So, unlike most of the recipes in my book, the.

Susan:

Chicken is not double fried.

Susan:

Double frying is a dish that was popularized by, uh, Korean fried chicken,

Susan:

which I call K ffc, but everybody gets it mixed up with kfc, uh, Kentucky

Susan:

Fried Chicken, but her recipe is fried once and then baked, so you can

Susan:

make it in advance, you can fry it in advance and then, you know, right

Susan:

before dinner, you can just pop it in the oven for I think 10 or 15 minutes.

Susan:

And.

Susan:

It's coated with soy sauce and rice wine, and it's cooked

Susan:

with the ginger and and garlic.

Susan:

To me, it's a very delicious, very easy dish to make, and I just really love it.

Bruce:

You talk about an important technique upfront that goes

Bruce:

from most of the recipes In your book, you say Overheat your oil.

Bruce:

Now that's sounds scary to most people.

Bruce:

Why do you recommend that?

Susan:

So if you heat the oil to 160 degrees and you add the chicken,

Susan:

it drops to hundred 40 degrees.

Susan:

And it takes some time to go up to 160.

Susan:

Mm-hmm.

Susan:

But if you overheat the oil to 180 degrees, when you add the

Susan:

chicken, the temperature will of the oil will drop to 160.

Susan:

So you're frying at the correct temperature.

Susan:

It's not overheating it to the point where it bursts into flames.

Susan:

Where, where it's the, the flashpoint it.

Susan:

Overheating it so that you get the correct temperature when

Susan:

you actually fry the chicken.

Susan:

And then when you fry it the second time at 180 degrees, you heat it to 190

Susan:

degrees and then you add the chicken and it, it drops down to hundred 80 or so

Bruce:

most chicken fried in the south in the us.

Bruce:

It's made with Crisco melted solid vegetable shortening.

Bruce:

Is that ever used, um, throughout Asia or what are the oils that chicken are

Bruce:

fried in, uh, in, in your book and throughout east and southeast Asia?

Susan:

I, I said in the book, I think that to use whatever is convenient to

Susan:

your country, so in Hong Kong it might be peanut oil or it might be corn oil.

Susan:

You need any type of oil that will is a neutral tasting oil that.

Susan:

Isn't too expensive because you're using a fair amount of it and then,

Susan:

uh, which has a high enough smoke point so that you're not burning the oil.

Susan:

So therefore, I wouldn't recommend using sesame oil because the unique

Susan:

flavor of the sesame oil would be obliterated when you heat it.

Susan:

Um, anyway.

Susan:

And also it's expensive, so just use an, you know, a fairly inexpensive oil.

Susan:

I mean, if, if I had Crisco and if it were, you know, I, I, I

Susan:

think it makes really delicious.

Susan:

Uh, fried chicken, but for these recipes, I just tend to use a

Susan:

liquid oil rather than a solid fat.

Bruce:

Hey, Susan, what's the difference between frying chicken and oil and oil?

Bruce:

Blanching chicken.

Bruce:

And when would you use that technique?

Susan:

Chinese cuisine has a unique.

Susan:

Cooking technique called oil blanching.

Susan:

It's where you marinate the chicken, which is usually cut into small pieces,

Susan:

but not necessarily, and you dip it in the oil for just a very briefly, maybe

Susan:

30 seconds to one minute, and it isn't enough time to fully cook the chicken,

Susan:

but it gives it a really smooth texture, which has led to another name for it.

Susan:

It's called velvet the chicken.

Susan:

Then it's cooked with other ingredients.

Susan:

To flavor it.

Susan:

So the marinade is usually quite light.

Susan:

It's, you know, salt and maybe oil and rice, wine or, or maybe some soy sauce.

Susan:

Oh, it also has, uh, some kind of starch.

Susan:

Always.

Susan:

There's always some kind of starch and you just very briefly cook it, take

Susan:

it out of the oil, and then it has a really delicious, very smooth texture.

Susan:

And like I said, you just cook it with other ingredients to finish the cooking.

Bruce:

You say in your book, That wings are your favorite part of the

Bruce:

chicken and you suggest a really interesting technique when you're using

Bruce:

only that middle section of the wing.

Bruce:

You know the part with two bones?

Bruce:

Mm-hmm.

Bruce:

You split them in half the length wise, I've never seen that done.

Bruce:

Where did you learn this technique and why do you like it so much?

Susan:

I actually saw this done at this.

Susan:

Restaurant in Bangkok called Greyhound, and I thought, what a great technique

Susan:

because it's so much easier to eat.

Susan:

Mm-hmm.

Susan:

I dunno if Greyhound came up with that idea or if it's been done before,

Susan:

but that's where I first saw it.

Susan:

And I like it because when it's the, the middle joint and you have to deal with

Susan:

the meat in between the two bones, which is, you know, can be quite difficult.

Susan:

So if you just cut it in half, you just have one.

Susan:

Un bone to deal with and the rest of it is exterior meat.

Susan:

So it's just very easy to eat.

Bruce:

I love that you are honest enough to start your chapter on

Bruce:

boneless chicken breasts by saying you dreaded writing this chapter.

Bruce:

Can you talk about that?

Susan:

Well, I think a lot of people in in East and Southeast Asia prefer.

Susan:

Dark meat chicken just because it has a lot more flavor.

Susan:

But a lot of people in the US prefer white meat, chicken.

Susan:

And I remember going to a restaurant where you get half a chicken for a

Susan:

certain amount of money, and if you want only white meat, it's an extra $2.

Susan:

And I said, well, if I want only dark meat, can you take off $2?

Susan:

And I said, no.

Susan:

And I thought that was really unfair.

Susan:

But people here do tend to prefer dark meat just because it has more flavor

Susan:

and it's also not as dry, and you don't have to worry about drying out the meat.

Susan:

It just is fairly easy to cook.

Susan:

But with breast meat, it's so easy to overcook, and when it, it's

Susan:

overcooked, it becomes hard and dry.

Susan:

So I dreaded that chapter just because I have eaten so much dry.

Susan:

Overcooked white meat.

Susan:

So my way of cooking it is to actually undercook it.

Susan:

There's a technique that's common to cooking a lot of

Susan:

meats where you rest the meat.

Susan:

When you rest the meat, the temperature of the meat, the internal

Susan:

temperature of the meat continues to rise and it becomes fully cooked.

Susan:

So when you cook a steak, if you want.

Susan:

Medium rare.

Susan:

You take it off the heat when it's rare, and then if you let it rest, the

Susan:

residual heat will cook it to medium rare.

Susan:

So I thought that would be a really interesting way to cook chicken breast.

Susan:

So I undercook it so it's a little bit pink inside, and then when you

Susan:

let it rest on the cooling rock, it takes it to a perfect doneness.

Susan:

And that way it's not dry.

Bruce:

Hey, the recipes in your book run the gamut from relatively simple to

Bruce:

the super complicated Nome guy, and I am determined to conquer this recipe.

Bruce:

Tell me about the dish.

Susan:

Most of my recipes that you said are very easy, but this dish for

Susan:

me is a very important dish because my mother told me about it when I

Susan:

was young, and she's described it and she said it's a banquet dish.

Susan:

She's only eaten a few times.

Susan:

And she said, when you have your Chinese wedding banquet, I will order it for you.

Susan:

And I never had a Chinese wedding banquet, so I was determined to make it myself.

Susan:

So I started making it maybe 10 years ago.

Susan:

But the times that I've made it, I mean, are just very few times.

Susan:

It's like maybe six times in all in 10 years because it is so difficult.

Susan:

You tunnel bone the chicken, which means you remove all the bones

Susan:

without cutting into the skin.

Susan:

And it takes me about an hour, but I'm sure if you found a butcher to do it

Susan:

for you, An old fashioned butcher, um, he'd be able to do it in probably 30

Susan:

minutes, but then this to bone chicken, you season it on the inside, then you

Susan:

step it with glutenous rice, which is mixed with Chinese, uh, wind dried

Susan:

meats and dried shrimps and mushrooms.

Susan:

And then you stuff it, so it looks almost like a slightly flattened whole chicken.

Susan:

You wouldn't be able to tell that it's the mo bones have been

Susan:

removed and then you steam it.

Susan:

And then you let it air dry and sit in the fridge overnight so that the skin

Susan:

dries out and then you deep fry it.

Susan:

Actually, you'd fry it twice and it is very difficult.

Susan:

I'm not going to lie.

Susan:

It's, it's really hard, but it's really delicious.

Bruce:

I am determined to make that so you have eaten fried chicken

Bruce:

in more places than I can imagine.

Bruce:

Aside.

Bruce:

From your mom's fried chicken, which has such a special place in your heart,

Bruce:

can you pick one or two fried chicken dishes that just stick with you as

Bruce:

like some of the best you've had?

Bruce:

I really

Susan:

like Taiwanese Night Market chicken.

Susan:

I'm actually very proud of that dish because it was the first time that I

Susan:

made white meat chicken that was not dry.

Susan:

It uses white meat because that's how they do it in Taiwan.

Susan:

In the Taiwan night markets.

Susan:

The Taiwanese version usually is a chicken breast that's been pounded, and so it's.

Susan:

It's a huge breast.

Susan:

It's like, you know, if you watch YouTube videos, everybody on YouTube

Susan:

says, oh, it's bigger than my face.

Susan:

You know, it's, it's actually not that much wheat, it's

Susan:

just, just been flattened.

Susan:

So it looks really huge.

Susan:

Mm-hmm.

Susan:

I did it in smaller pieces just because it's easier to eat and it

Susan:

retains the moisture better if, as long as you don't overcook it.

Susan:

So I really like that dish.

Susan:

And then also there's the typhoon shelter wings, which.

Susan:

Is very special because it's a Hong Kong dish.

Susan:

Usually it's a typhoon shelter, crabs or other types of seafood.

Susan:

And then I also really love the shrimp paste wings because that is a dish

Susan:

where I had to say to my husband, who's a Brit, is it too strong?

Susan:

Because it had to be good for my taste right?

Susan:

And good for his taste as well.

Susan:

And he said, It's not too strong.

Susan:

Mm-hmm.

Susan:

So the dish was a bit of a compromise cause I, I would've liked it a

Susan:

little bit stronger, but I think the way it's, it's written now is

Susan:

a dish that will please everybody.

Susan:

But if you do like a shrimp paste, you can add, add more shrimp paste if you like,

Bruce:

from oil blanched chicken that gets.

Bruce:

Stir fried into dozens of ways to the crispiest most delicious wings, to that

Bruce:

amazing boneless stuffed whole chicken.

Bruce:

Your book is full of fantastic recipes.

Bruce:

Susan Jung, the food columnist at Vogue, China.

Bruce:

Uh, her new book, Kung Pow and Beyond Fried Chicken, recipes

Bruce:

from East and South East Asia.

Bruce:

Susan, thank you for spending some time with me and speaking about your book.

Susan:

Thank you so much.

Susan:

It was fun.

Mark:

It's so interesting that you would name about Kung Pow and yet

Mark:

be about so much more than Kung p I guess that's the beyond part.

Mark:

Part.

Bruce:

Yes.

Bruce:

The Beyond part.

Bruce:

It's all about fried chicken.

Bruce:

She has so many delicious fried chicken recipes in there.

Bruce:

She's always been dedicated to make perfect recipes in her columns, and as she

Bruce:

said, the fried chicken was always like her most popular column, so she decided.

Bruce:

If she's visited a country that had fried chicken, she was gonna

Bruce:

put that recipe in her book.

Mark:

Interesting.

Mark:

Yeah, I, it is so fascinating.

Mark:

Back in the day when Bruce and I were much younger and, you know, we were, uh, much

Mark:

younger baby gays and trying to stay very.

Mark:

Then we refused to order and we lived in Manhattan and we

Mark:

refused to order in Chinese food.

Mark:

That was deep fried.

Bruce:

I refused.

Bruce:

You wanted it?

Bruce:

I did.

Bruce:

The first time Mark moved into the apartment, he came up to New York.

Bruce:

He said, oh, let's order in general Sal's chicken from the Chinese place.

Bruce:

And I was like, Hey, it was just deep fried gristle.

Bruce:

No did.

Bruce:

We're gonna get white meat, chicken stir-fried only.

Mark:

No white meat, only stir fry only.

Mark:

And we would say that.

Mark:

But listen, hey, it.

Mark:

Kept the weight off.

Mark:

So you know, it is a thing now.

Bruce:

It's a deep fried gristle.

Mark:

It is a thing.

Mark:

Okay.

Mark:

Before we get to the final segment of this episode of the podcast,

Mark:

cooking with Bruce and Mark, let me say, it would be great if you could

Mark:

rate this podcast or drop a comment.

Mark:

Thank you so much for that.

Mark:

It really helps with the algorithms.

Mark:

You can go down to the bottom of the Apple page or the uh, Spotify page.

Mark:

I think that's actually the top, the Google podcast, if you're listening on.

Mark:

Audiobooks or Amazon, you can find rating systems there.

Mark:

Doing so is the only way we are supported because we are otherwise

Mark:

a completely independent podcast and your support can be expressed there.

Mark:

So thank you for that in advance as is tradition, our final segment, what's

Mark:

making us happy in food this week?

Bruce:

Fish Wife.

Bruce:

Tinned smoked salmon with fly by Jing Chili Crisp.

Bruce:

Okay.

Bruce:

Packed in the tin.

Bruce:

Oh, you gotta go

Mark:

back.

Mark:

Okay.

Mark:

Explain the word Fish

Bruce:

Wife.

Bruce:

Fish Wife is the company that makes it.

Bruce:

There you go.

Bruce:

So the Fish Wife brand tinned smoked salmon with chili Crisp made by fly

Bruce:

by Jing, which is another brand, and a combined forces to put fly by Jing

Bruce:

Chili crisp into the smoke salmon tins.

Bruce:

Oh my goodness.

Bruce:

This stuff is delicious.

Mark:

We have become a FTOs of tinned seafood, and I grew up on,

Mark:

of course, the crummy sardines from the grocery store that were tinned.

Mark:

I love them.

Mark:

Oh, oh.

Mark:

It was a thing with me.

Mark:

I loved.

Mark:

Um, now don't judge me.

Mark:

I loved Wonder Bread and Mayonnaise and 10 sardines.

Bruce:

Oh, at least put cream cheese on that

Mark:

Wonder Bread.

Mark:

And I am a Christian Wonder Bread and mayonnaise and 10 sardines.

Mark:

I loved it as a kid.

Mark:

Um, but we became, uh, enamored with Tin Fish years ago.

Mark:

You probably heard this, if you listen the podcast through a restaurant in

Bruce:

Boston, right?

Bruce:

Hail dot Henry, and they're a wine bar and they specialize in tin fish and

Bruce:

they import them, and you can go there.

Mark:

They, they specialize in Portuguese and Spanish wines.

Bruce:

You go there and you get a half.

Bruce:

Bottle of wine or a bottle of wine or a glass of wine and they will

Bruce:

bring you on a slate platter, some open tins with the fish in it, a

Bruce:

fork and a bag of potato chips.

Mark:

And let me say that the tins they have are crazy.

Mark:

I mean, there are some up over a hundred dollars a tin.

Mark:

Let me say that.

Mark:

Across the world, tined fish is considered a delicacy.

Mark:

It is.

Bruce:

And these.

Bruce:

These fish wife tins of smoked sandwich liters aren't cheap.

Bruce:

They're about $15 of 10.

Bruce:

Yeah.

Bruce:

Which is expensive, but I just ordered a bunch because they're so good.

Mark:

Yeah.

Mark:

But I just, I, I just can always freak out at three digit prices on tens digit.

Mark:

What's making you happy?

Mark:

What's making me happy in food this week is a drink that I love,

Mark:

and you may not know this drink.

Mark:

It's called Suz and Tonic.

Mark:

And let me explain this.

Mark:

Suz is a very, Old French liquor.

Mark:

I think it's actually Province Sal, but it's a very old French

Mark:

liquor, neon green, yellow.

Bruce:

It's like, yes, yellow, and it's, it's bright.

Bruce:

You're pour it and it looks like it's flu.

Bruce:

You know what it looks like?

Bruce:

It just hit me.

Bruce:

It looks like radiator.

Bruce:

Coolant?

Bruce:

No.

Bruce:

Looks like antifreeze.

Mark:

Okay.

Mark:

Anyway, it's an herbal distillate.

Mark:

It's delicious.

Mark:

Suzy's, but it is strong.

Mark:

It's gentian.

Mark:

Bruce says It smells like you mowed your lawn and drank the clippings.

Mark:

So it's very grassy.

Mark:

It's gentian and, but I mix it with lemon tonic, with fever trees, lemon

Mark:

tonic, and it is so refreshing.

Mark:

You put about, oh, I'd say the ratio is about what?

Mark:

One soothes three to one.

Mark:

Three tonics.

Mark:

I Three ones too.

Mark:

Yeah.

Mark:

Yeah.

Mark:

One sus to three tonics, and it is so summer.

Mark:

So refreshing, so interesting.

Mark:

I love it more than I could possibly say.

Mark:

So if you haven't ever tried ES Suz, that's S U Z E A.

Mark:

Suz and Tonic, now would be the time.

Mark:

If Summer gets yourself out on your patio or your deck and

Mark:

just see, or your fire escape.

Mark:

We Fires came and just set back.

Mark:

That's our podcast for this week.

Mark:

Thanks for joining us and being on this journey with us.

Mark:

We appreciate

Mark:

your being here

Bruce:

and we appreciate you subscribing.

Bruce:

We really do because it helps our numbers and it'll help you not miss a single

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