Lagos is loud, crowded and relentlessly energetic - but Vanessa Jev believes first-time visitors soon learn to move with it. In this episode, the director of the Lagos International Theatre Festival joins Daniel to explore the food, neighbourhoods and creative communities of her adopted home.
For More: https://www.destinationunlocked.com
Vanessa explains why Victoria Island and Lekki are convenient bases for visitors, how traffic can shape an entire day and why app-based taxis are generally the simplest way to travel. She also shares the best time to experience Lagos at full throttle: November and December, when the city’s calendar fills with theatre, film, fashion, concerts and festivals.
The conversation takes in the Lekki Arts and Crafts Market, Nike Art Gallery, the John Randle Centre for Yoruba Culture and History and Terra Kulture - the arts centre that first persuaded Vanessa to exchange Canada for Lagos. There are suggestions for exploring beyond the principal visitor districts too, from the New Afrika Shrine on the mainland to the beaches and resorts stretching east along the Lekki Peninsula.
Food is never far away. Vanessa introduces Daniel to suya served hot from the evening grill, small chops packed with puff-puff, samosas and spring rolls, fresh palm wine, àmàlà and the unmistakably Nigerian combination of suya and a cold Chapman.
Theatre provides the episode’s inside view of Lagos. Vanessa describes audiences who talk back to performers, actors who respond without missing a beat and productions that use humour to approach dating, sex, tradition and the pressures of everyday Nigerian life. She also reveals what goes into transforming the MUSON Centre into a festival ground filled with simultaneous performances, workshops, food, music and family entertainment.
In the quick-fire round, discover Vanessa’s favourite Lagos experience, the tourist overcharging trap to avoid, the film and book to enjoy before travelling, and why a miniature yellow danfo bus makes the perfect souvenir.
The Lagos International Theatre Festival runs in November. Find details and forthcoming programme announcements on the official festival website.
This is destination unlocked with me, Daniel Edward.
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:Hey, welcome back to Destination Unlocked.
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:Hope you are well and today excited
for a journey across to Nigeria.
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:Destination Unlocked is a conversational
travel podcast that's all about
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:bringing you destinations with
authentic locals and expert travellers.
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:Today we're going with an authentic local.
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:She lives in Lagos and she is at
the heart of the art scene there.
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:Vanessa Jev is the director of the
Lagos International Theatre Festival,
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:and it's on for its third year in 2026.
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:So if you'd like to book your
tickets, now is a great time to book
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:them ahead of this year's festival,
which is coming up in November.
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:Well, I think it's about time
we get into it and meet Vanessa.
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:Enjoy.
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:So Vanessa, where are you
unlocking for us today?
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:Vanessa Jev: Today I'm going
to be unlocking Lagos, Nigeria.
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:Daniel Edward: So cool, and it's
turning into such a culture hub.
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:Vanessa Jev: Absolutely.
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:It definitely is.
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:November, December, it's when
all the festivals happen,
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:so lots of culture going on.
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:Daniel Edward: Let's get into an
introductory guide for Lagos, for
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:somebody who hasn't been and is either
thinking about it or is booked and now
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:wants to map out their first few days
in town, what are the things that you
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:say are must see or must dos for Lagos?
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:Vanessa Jev: There is
so much to do in Lagos.
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:I would definitely say, get
yourself to the Lucky Arts market.
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:if you're in town in November,
the Lagos International Theatre
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:Festival, of course, is a must go-to
for everything, culture and arts.
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:and of course Terra Culture restaurant.
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:Daniel Edward: Indeed.
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:you've got some connections with
those, which we're gonna dig into,
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:as we get into this conversation.
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:if you were to sum up the spirit, the
vibe of Lagos how would you describe it?
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:Vanessa Jev: Energetic, I would
say Lagos is energy everywhere.
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:Lagos is one of those hustle
and bustle cities, so there's
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:always something going on.
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:There's always people outside.
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:So energy,
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:Daniel Edward: and that actually
links perfectly into a question
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:that somebody messaged in for me,
and that is, is Lagos overwhelming?
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:if you haven't been before, maybe
you've not been to Africa before.
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:For somebody coming from the UK America.
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:Vanessa Jev: It could be.
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:It definitely could be.
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:I mean, the first thing that
hits you in Lagos is it's noise.
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:It's loud.
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:It's a lot of people all over the
place trying to grab your attention.
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:you're hearing horns blaring all
over the place, so it, could be
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:overwhelming, but I think you settle
into it really quickly as a visitor.
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:you kind of just get swept up into this,
life here in, Lagos, and all of a sudden,
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:you know, you're navigating the streets.
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:you're talking to like the
local businessmen or women
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:and you're just enjoying it.
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:it's overwhelming, but
everyone's really friendly.
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:that's one thing I'll say,
it's not just a Lagos thing.
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:Nigerians are friendly people, so
people are always willing to help.
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:They're always gonna, ask if
you're okay if you need direction.
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:So it's not too scary.
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:It's not scary.
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:Daniel Edward: And how much does Lagos
change depending on which neighbourhood
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:you are in, where is a really good
place to stay, and then where are
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:good places to go out and visit?
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:Vanessa Jev: Lagos is kind of split
into, you can think of it in two ways.
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:Lagos is kind of on an island.
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:So we've got the mainland,
which is where the airport is.
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:So that's where you land.
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:So you move from mainland over the
bridge, over the water into the island.
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:And once you start coming
onto the island, it changes.
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:I think the mainland is a bit calmer.
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:And then you get to the island, which is
where everybody wants to be on the island.
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:Everybody wants to be in Victoria Island.
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:It's where all the businesses are.
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:It's where all the hot
happening spots are.
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:And of course lucky, just
in case any Nigerians.
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:'cause they'll be like, ah, what about Le?
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:But Lucky phase one and Victoria
Island are the places where I think
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:a lot of people want to come to.
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:And as a tourist, as somebody visiting,
it's definitely the easiest space
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:to be around because if you're in
vi, so if you're in Victoria Island,
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:you're connected to the major hotels,
you're connected to the restaurants,
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:the museums, shopping, the spas.
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:Of course these are things you
can find on the mainland, but
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:just navigating around in an Uber,
it's easier to move on the island.
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:So the island is the
place to come to for sure.
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:Daniel Edward: Islands draw people in.
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:Vanessa Jev: We do.
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:Daniel Edward: Manhattan
is another island.
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:Vanessa Jev: Yeah, Toronto too.
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:Toronto has Toronto Island
and every summer people wanna
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:head to the Toronto Islands.
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:I, I don't know what it is,
it's just community, I guess.
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:Everybody wants to head out.
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:Daniel Edward: Yeah, yeah.
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:you did mention Uber.
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:Is that the main way people get around
or are there other forms of transport?
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:Is public transport something that
tourists should consider as, either as an
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:experience or as practical use or actually
say, as a tourist, avoid this or that?
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:Vanessa Jev: As a tourist, I would
honestly say avoid public transport.
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:there are a lot of safe,
transportation companies.
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:There's Uber, we've got Bolt out here.
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:there's E Drive which uses only electronic
vehicles, and all the cars are new.
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:The trips are, monitored, and
they have cameras in there.
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:So there's no way that anybody
can scam you or ask for more money
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:or take you somewhere nefarious
or, you know, anything like that.
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:So I would stay away from
public transport, unless maybe
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:you're going with a guide.
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:But then again, I would stay away from it.
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:I would just say stick with Uber.
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:you can put it on your phone.
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:Same way you do it anywhere else.
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:You know where you're going.
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:It's the safest way.
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:Daniel Edward: What about walking around?
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:because I love walking that for
me, just getting lost in a city
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:and, seeing where I end up is a
great way of experiencing a place.
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:how walkable is it?
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:Vanessa Jev: I think it's very walkable.
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:A lot of people, walk around,
certain areas you'll see a lot of
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:people jogging in the mornings.
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:They have cycle clubs, so
people will be cycling.
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:so it's very walkable.
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:I don't know about the heat
'cause it does get really hot.
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:Nigeria gets super hot, so I
would just be wary of that.
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:But again, there's always places that you
can pop in, get a cold drink, cool down
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:for a little bit, and continue on with
your walk if that's what you want to do.
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:But you're completely
safe and fine to do so.
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:Daniel Edward: And in terms of
the heat, when's it hottest and
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:when's it at its most comfortable?
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:Vanessa Jev: When is it
not hot is the question.
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:I find Lagos to be hot all the time,
even when it's raining, I would say
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:we kind of get into our rainy period,
from about, April to about August.
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:We, we get a lot of rain, but we're
noticing that things are changing.
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:I don't know whether that's climate
change, but, it's been raining
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:a little bit into November and
December, so we're seeing a little
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:bit more rain, which is nice 'cause
it does cool down the temperature a
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:bit, when's the best time to visit?
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:I still say December, November.
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:December are beautiful times.
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:I think a lot of people come into
the city for the ember months.
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:as they say, we get into,
the film festival, you've got
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:Lagos Fashion Week happens.
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:You've got, LITF, the cinemas are packed.
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:So November, December is always like,
you'll find lots of things to do
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:. Daniel Edward: I get the sense, and I
haven't yet been, but I get the sense that
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:Lagos is a cultural hub for the region.
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:Vanessa Jev: Absolutely.
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:I think when you think culture, when
you think creativity, arts, Lagos is the
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:place, that I think everybody thinks of.
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:We've got the John Randall Museum,
which is a beautiful, newly
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:renovated Yoruba, cultural museum.
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:And I mean, this place is,
this space is gorgeous.
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:we've got the National Museum that's
got all of our, national history and
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:then a little bit away out of Lagos.
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:There's Bore, which is where
we have our point of no return.
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:Like we're the slave ships and the
slave trade and all that stuff.
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:So there's a lot of history and
culture and, things to experience.
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:You've got the Nicka Art Gallery,
which has all of the artworks and
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:new art and old art, all that stuff.
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:And it's a beautiful, uh, place to go to.
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:So yeah, culture is here.
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:Lagos is culture.
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:Yeah.
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:Daniel Edward: Lagos is also food.
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:Vanessa Jev: Yes, it is food.
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:Absolutely.
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:Oh, I think that's one thing, people
always say about Lagos is there's always
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:a new restaurant popping up in Lagos.
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:I don't know, there's
always a new restaurant.
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:Anything you want, do you want sushi?
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:You can find it in Lagos.
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:Do you want traditional Nigerian cuisine?
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:We've got it.
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:Do you want Thai?
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:Do you want Indonesian food?
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:it's insane.
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:Like, there's everything here.
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:Honestly.
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:Do you want like a 24
hour all you can eat?
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:American Buffet.
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:We've got it.
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:It's so in, it's so interesting.
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:But yeah, food is a big
thing in Nigerian Lagos.
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:Daniel Edward: And is that because a lot
of people have moved to Lagos if they're
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:gonna move to Nigeria internationally,
Lagos is probably where they've ended up
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:and that's why they're such a big mix.
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:Vanessa Jev: I think that's part of it.
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:I think there's a massive expat
community in, Lagos, in Nigeria.
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:But in Lagos, yes, we've
got, a really big Indian and
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:Lebanese and, Chinese community.
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:of course we've got the Americans,
the Canadians, the British, so
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:of course our cuisine is, kind
of reflecting the society.
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:And as people travel out and come
back, they're like, well, these
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:are experiences they want to have.
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:So we're seeing a lot of Nigerian business
owners open things like bubble tea shops.
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:'cause bubble tea's becoming a
really big thing now and we've
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:got, you know, that comfort food.
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:things that they've experienced in
other places and they're now bringing
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:it home for people to experience here.
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:So definitely, part of that
is, people coming in and living
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:here and making Nigeria home.
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:Daniel Edward: And what would
you say is typical Nigerian food?
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:if somebody's going to visit Lagos,
I'm sure they want their bubble
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:tea, but they wanna have some stuff
which is traditional, some stuff
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:which has been around for years.
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:Vanessa Jev: Okay, so
some traditional food.
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:First off, it's suya.
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:I think everybody always talks about suya.
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:Suya is our version of the barbecue.
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:It's skewered meat.
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:You can get chicken, you can get beef.
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:I think you can get like liver and
they cut them into like thin slices.
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:They put almost like a sa but a dry sa.
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:So it's got peanuts on it.
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:It's got a little bit of,
kick a little bit of pepper.
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:And they grill that and they serve it
with cabbage and like tomatoes and onions.
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:And that's like a staple night food.
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:Soya starts in the night.
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:It's a nighttime thing.
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:at about seven o'clock you'll see
the soya stands start to pop up.
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:You can smell and see all the
smoke coming up from the grill.
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:So that's one dish for a drink.
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:I think traditionally it's
always like palm wine or Chapman.
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:palm wine comes from like the palm trees.
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:And it's a local, traditional
drink, that you have nice and cold.
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:It's a little bit fermented.
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:it's really nice when it's fresh and cold.
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:and then a Chapman is like a local drink
that you'll find at every restaurant
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:you can order a Chapman and it's a mix
of like Fanta, Sprite, a little bit
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:of Riba and like Augustine Bitters.
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:it's such a refreshing drink
and it's just everywhere.
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:So those are some, staple things.
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:If you want something with a bit more
like weight to it, you can go for Amah.
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:Amah is a dish that,
they serve with a soup.
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:So you eat the Amah with the soup.
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:I think people might
be familiar with fufu.
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:So it's kind of like that.
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:It's a dish that
accompanies a whole thing.
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:I call it like the Nigerian comfort food.
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:'cause it's really
filling, it's really warm.
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:It's like a stew with some greens and
some beans and it's, I dunno how they
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:do it, but it's delicious and it's,
it's my comfort food here for sure.
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:Daniel Edward: I've heard about and
I've been told that I need to find
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:out more about this small chops.
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:Vanessa Jev: Ah, small chops.
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:Small chops are at every event.
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:small chops are a staple.
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:that is a perfect question.
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:small chops comes in like a nice
Ziploc bag and they put, um, you
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:get puff puff, , you could think
of puff, puff as like a donut.
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:It's like a donut hole.
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:, they come with spring rolls.
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:They come with samosa, and they
normally come with like one, like
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:little piece of like grilled chicken.
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:So there's basically small eats,
something to kind of nibble on
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:and, and get you through an event
before the main course comes.
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:But yeah, small chops
are legendary in Nigeria.
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:Daniel Edward: And where
would you pick them?
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:Up on the street or in a bakery, cafe,
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:Vanessa Jev: Yeah, so there are
actual small chops, , restaurants.
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:So there's like, uncle Stan's is a small
chop place where you can go and, and like
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:order small chops, or you could go to
like 12 baskets and they'll deliver it.
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:So most times it's companies that
will deliver it to you where you
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:are, or you can walk into one of
those businesses and get small shops.
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:Daniel Edward: Oh, that's on my list.
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:Vanessa Jev: Yes.
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:Daniel Edward: Let's talk theatre because
this is how I first heard about you.
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:I love theatre.
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:coming from London, I'm, blessed with
so much theatre going on around us.
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:and it's something that I always
look out for when I travel the world.
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:What's going on in the art
scene, what's going on in the
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:theatre scene in particular.
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:And you are the festival director
of the Lagos International Theatre
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:Festival, which sounds so cool.
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:tell me about the festival , but
also tell me about the experience
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:of being the festival director.
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:Vanessa Jev: the Lagos International
Theatre Festival is an annual festival,
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:happens every November where we
bring together about 20 production
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:houses locally and internationally.
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:So we'll do, within Nigeria,
so Abuja, urt, and Lagos.
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:And then this year we had, groups from
South Africa and the United States.
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:So it's almost like a week long e event.
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:We've got the pre festival
days where we'll do, networking
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:nights, theatre meets food.
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:Of course food is a big thing here.
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:So theatre meets food, where we'll have,
industry experts, big theatre actors,
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:film actors come out and hear about
the festival, watch some performances.
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:And then we also do,
conversations and culture.
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:In the middle of the week where we have
industry professionals come and speak to,
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:up and coming producers, actors, directors
on different things like lighting.
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:It could be directing for stage,
it could be how to use dance
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:as a way to express yourself.
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:and then the festival really kicks off
on the weekend, Saturday and a Sunday
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:where all of the shows are showing
simultaneously throughout the day.
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:we use one location here in Lagos
called the Mosan Centre, and it's
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:got, five performance venues in there.
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:we turn it into festival ground,
so we bring in, vendors like
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:ice cream vendors, food, drinks.
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:We do, souvenirs and things like that.
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:We've got people on stilts.
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:We've got jugglers.
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:There's face painting.
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:So it becomes like a really nice
place just to be on the weekend.
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:So that's, the festival and
it's always such a blast.
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:so being the festival director is
hard work, but it's rewarding work.
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:it's always really cool to see what
people are doing in the theatre
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:space, see different types of
theatre, from dances to masquerade
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:performances to site specific theatre.
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:it's always so fun to see how people
are, being creative in the theatre space.
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:and to provide that platform, because
I think that's one thing that we
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:are really doing is providing a
professional platform, professional
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:stages, giving, access to lighting,
designers, sound technicians, sets
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:all of that kind of space that people
might not originally have access to.
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:it's a lot of work.
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:It's a lot of administrative work.
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:It's a lot of meetings, it's a lot of,
putting out little fires, but it is so
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:rewarding to, get, to see them perform.
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:And this year was just spectacular.
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:It was sold out venues.
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:people were literally trying to
buy tickets off of other people
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:to get into different shows.
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:So it was a lot of fun.
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:I'm so happy and proud of how it
went and, and I'm so glad that
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:our production houses did so well.
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:Daniel Edward: How many
years has it been going?
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:Vanessa Jev: So this is our second year?
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:We kind of took over Lagos last year.
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:we were in like different location.
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:We were on the mainland,
we were on the island.
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:we were in like six physical
different locations and we had it
330
:all going on through the weekend.
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:So it was great.
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:We really landed on the scene
with a blast and then this year we
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:wanted everybody to come together.
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:So being at the Mosan Centre
really helped . So, second year
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:and, can't wait for next year.
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:We're already planning
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:Daniel Edward: I wanna
be there for the 20 26 1.
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:it sounds amazing, and your
background is in theatre.
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:you are not just, admin and
organising and leading this festival.
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:You are a practitioner in theatre as well.
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:Vanessa Jev: I am.
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:I actually moved from Canada
to Lagos, two years ago.
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:And, yes, in Canada I did
a lot in the theatre space.
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:I worked, as an actor at first,
but then I realised that there
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:wasn't a lot of opportunities
for people that looked like me.
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:So I started writing shows and, those
started getting funded and produced and
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:we started directing and next thing I knew
we were doing theatre shows every year.
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:So that's, how I kind of got into it.
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:Daniel Edward: I think one of the key
things with theatre is what gets put on
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:and goes out on stage gives you an insight
into what's on the minds of people.
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:What's the spirit of, where
people are at right now.
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:The pulse of a place, because a producer
has to think what's gonna get bums
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:on seats and what's gonna get people
talking once they've left the theatre
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:to continue getting bums on seats.
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:' that's the business side of theatre.
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:what sort of stuff came
up in the:
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:what is the pulse right now?
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:Vanessa Jev: You know, that's a
really interesting question, there
359
:were a lot of love romcom stories
that people were putting on.
360
:It was really interesting.
361
:We had BAP productions, Mrs.
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:B Austin Peters, she did Dear Kathy,
and my boyfriend calls B Ma, and
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:those are both kind of love stories.
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:Dear Kathy deals with a girl
Kike, who is dating in Lagos,
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:and she's going through it.
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:she's dating the guy
who's cheating on her.
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:She dates the guy who's only using her for
money, and then she finds this guy that's,
368
:the safe bet, but she finds it boring.
369
:And then my boyfriend calls
me, ma, is about an older
370
:woman dating a younger girl.
371
:And then we had, before I let you
go by Maud Fat, all about what
372
:happens if you meet the love of your
life at the bus stop while you're
373
:waiting for the bus, and you've only
got like a few minutes to talk to.
374
:That was really interesting.
375
:There was a play called 99% Virgin, you
know, what happened to the other 1%.
376
:Um, and it's dealing about,
ideas around sex, which is a very
377
:interesting topic in Nigeria,
which is a very Christian country.
378
:So it was really, really cool to
see people using these platforms
379
:to deal with topics that are
not necessarily spoken about.
380
:So openly dating a younger guy,
being a woman, dating a younger guy,
381
:what's that like being a girl who's
coming of age and she doesn't know if
382
:she's pregnant or not, and what, what
do you have to do to get pregnant?
383
:And all those kind of questions
and dealing with it in a really
384
:funny but engaging way that you
could talk about sensitive topics
385
:and not feel uncomfortable or make
an audience feel uncomfortable.
386
:The Children's Theatre was, beautiful.
387
:we had one that was very folklore
storytelling esque, which there's a
388
:throwback to something that they used
to do here called, Tails by Moonlight.
389
:And it was when everybody would kind
of sit around outside and the elders
390
:in the community would come and tell
folk stories So it was lovely to see
391
:a version of that happen on stage.
392
:And then we had, 80 students present
a Chean, which is a woman who was
393
:a ruler warrior here in Nigeria.
394
:So it was great history through theatre
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:Daniel Edward: One of the things that
really strikes me about what you've
396
:described with the shows that you've
pulled out as examples, but it also
397
:connects with me in terms of Nigerian
people that I've met, there's the
398
:humour, but then there's also the
conservatism, and so it's this balance,
399
:isn't it, between a really lighthearted,
bubbly, fun environment and spirit,
400
:but also really grounded in tradition.
401
:Vanessa Jev: Yeah.
402
:I think you've hit the nail on the head.
403
:it is finding that fine
balance of, you know, humour.
404
:What's funny, getting people
laughing, it's one of the things that
405
:I've noticed in Lagos, in Nigeria
is that, people want to laugh.
406
:Life is stressful.
407
:you're living in Nigeria,
so it's not the easiest.
408
:Of course, there are
everyday stresses everywhere.
409
:So, entertainment and, theatre becomes
a space to decompress and relax.
410
:Humour is something that
is key in Nigerian society.
411
:I think it's, how we deal with a
lot of things actually is through,
412
:is finding ways to laugh about it.
413
:People don't want to wallow.
414
:They, they're like, okay,
something's happened.
415
:We're gonna continue, and they'll
find a way to laugh about it and
416
:continue, which is just so amazing.
417
:It's beautiful.
418
:Daniel Edward: If you are going to Lagos,
but you are not able to get there in
419
:November time, so you're not gonna be
able to hit the festival, what's the
420
:theatre scene the rest of the year?
421
:Vanessa Jev: it's still going.
422
:If you come in December, Terra
Culture, which is like the number one
423
:arts and culture centre here, does
a Christmas play or does a holiday
424
:show every Christmas and Easter.
425
:So you'll, you'll definitely have
something to see . It's music, it's
426
:dance, it's live music, and, and you've
got like 60 dancers on stage dancing.
427
:so there's definitely lots going on.
428
:We've recently also just revamped
our national theatre in Lagos.
429
:We've got this beautiful
4,000 seater, national theatre
430
:that's absolutely gorgeous.
431
:So I know that we're going to
see more programming coming out
432
:of there, in the next months
and, and for next year as well.
433
:So definitely a lot of things to see.
434
:There's always, always,
always theatre shows going on.
435
:Daniel Edward: 4,000 seats.
436
:That's huge.
437
:Vanessa Jev: it's massive.
438
:it's really big.
439
:Daniel Edward: What sort of
things go down really well?
440
:Is it plays?
441
:Is it dance?
442
:Is it music focused?
443
:Vanessa Jev: I think it's, it shows
that encompass all, so it has to have
444
:a little bit of drama, but music and
dance always gets people, singing,
445
:dancing, especially if you are finding
a way to incorporate songs that are
446
:kind of a bit popular right now.
447
:Or even if they're throwbacks, oh,
people, people will be singing in, uh, you
448
:know, Nigerian audiences are, so unique.
449
:every time I tell people I'm like
watching a show, whether it's in
450
:the theatre or the cinemas is such
a different experience in Nigeria.
451
:If you go to theatre in London,
if you go to theatre in Canada,
452
:you know, everybody sits down.
453
:They applaud at the right
times and that's it.
454
:People are talking back to the actors.
455
:They are making their one-liners,
like they become part of the show.
456
:Like, they're so engaged.
457
:It's so much fun.
458
:you definitely need something that,
that can keep people engaged and alive.
459
:So you need music, you need dance, and
a little bit of that drama, everything.
460
:Yeah.
461
:Daniel Edward: That's so funny.
462
:Gosh, it's a different skill
to be an actor than in Nigeria.
463
:' you're being heckled in a scripted play.
464
:Vanessa Jev: I commend the actors because
when I sit and I watch, I'm laughing.
465
:So I'm like, how are they
not breaking on stage?
466
:How are they able to stay in this?
467
:And there are times when, you know,
depending on the show, if it's a show
468
:that can allow it, you'll see them kind
of break that fourth wall and they'll
469
:you know, encourage it a little bit.
470
:Like, somebody will be
like, can you imagine?
471
:And the actor will be like, I know, right?
472
:Like, can you imagine
he's doing this to me?
473
:the actors are phenomenal.
474
:They're quick on their feet, it's
always such a great experience.
475
:Daniel Edward: if people want to check
out the theatre festival and maybe, book
476
:some dates ahead, where can they find more
information about the festival online?
477
:Vanessa Jev: you can always go
to our website, which is Lagos
478
:International Theatre Festival, ng,
or you can check us out on Instagram
479
:at official LI fest underscore.
480
:Daniel Edward: brilliant.
481
:I will be checking both of those out.
482
:beyond the festival, but staying
with the art scene, I'm imagining
483
:that's what drew you across from
Canada because it's a big move.
484
:Canada's got everything going for
it, especially in the art scene.
485
:Great art scenes over there.
486
:so I'm imagining that it was, a
bit of a, tug on your heart to
487
:get involved in the scene here.
488
:Vanessa Jev: Absolutely . It's
pretty much the sole reason I moved.
489
:I was doing a master's, so
I was actually living in the
490
:Netherlands doing a master's.
491
:And luckily the programme was, you had
to come to the continent, 'cause it was
492
:a master's in African Studies, so you
had to come to the continent and, do
493
:some research, like a research internship
for, I think it was three months.
494
:and I came and I interned
at Terra Culture.
495
:'cause I was like, I have to, I
need to work at Terra culture.
496
:I need to know what's going on.
497
:Like, there's just some beautiful
theatre shows coming out of there.
498
:I need to see what these guys are doing.
499
:And it was supposed to be three
months and I was supposed to go back.
500
:And I fell in love with it.
501
:I fell in love with just, seeing theatre
being done like this at this scale.
502
:And I was like, I wanna be a
part of this in any way I can.
503
:so I, I had a talk with my now
Boss and I was like, I would love
504
:to come back and work for you.
505
:I would just love to be in this space.
506
:And she was like, come back, come on down.
507
:So I, you know, went back to the
Netherlands, packed my bags, called
508
:my parents, said I'm not coming back
to Canada, I'm moving to Nigeria.
509
:And I moved and I've been here since.
510
:And it's been amazing.
511
:Uh, you know, this space is growing.
512
:I hope we see more funding
opportunities in the theatre space
513
:here because people are so talented.
514
:Daniel Edward: Can you tell me about
some of the little creative hubs and
515
:communities that might be a bit more
hidden in the city if someone's maybe
516
:got a little bit more time, maybe not
three months, but maybe they're staying
517
:for a couple of weeks, on a holiday.
518
:they see the big sites in the big centres,
but they want to dig in a little bit more.
519
:Vanessa Jev: I've mentioned a few of those
little ones, like if you are heading to
520
:Nico Art Gallery, the Lucky Arts Market,
those are really like cultural spaces.
521
:there's a space called Crates,
which is kind of May, it's this
522
:beautiful building that's incorporated
the use of like milk crates.
523
:So they use that in their design
and they've got a comic bookstore
524
:in there, but they also have, um,
live performances on the weekends.
525
:They'll put out, throw
pillows and, and mats.
526
:And it's almost like a
folklore thing that they do.
527
:And they'll have sings come and sing.
528
:Sometimes they do little presentations.
529
:So that's, that's a crates.
530
:what's another little hidden thing?
531
:you know what, there's
one thing I will say.
532
:It's, it's hard to pinpoint
places because something that
533
:they do a lot in Lagos is, popups.
534
:So they, there's an improv group, for
example, that does live theatre, but
535
:every week, it's at a different venue.
536
:So they'll use different creative
spaces that might not traditionally
537
:have been used for improv,
and they'll do improv there.
538
:So they might use like a really nice cafe
one day, or the next day they're using
539
:a bar area that they've kind of taken
over . So it's really about making sure
540
:that you're following some good, uh,
Instagram pages, like c Lagos, SEE Lagos
541
:does a lot of that where they'll like
tell you what's going on and for this
542
:coming week, there are apps that will tell
you kind of what's going on in the city.
543
:'cause there is just so much going on.
544
:it's a lot.
545
:But yeah, if you go to those key places,
Terra Culture, of course, Nico Art Gallery
546
:go to crates, people there will also be
able to guide you and say, Hey, this is
547
:going on across the street, or There's
a souk that's happening this weekend.
548
:There's a popup happening in Iko.
549
:You should go and check it out.
550
:People will always know what's going on.
551
:Daniel Edward: And that's
the best way, isn't it?
552
:Just chatting to people.
553
:Vanessa Jev: Yeah, honestly.
554
:and people are always, very
friendly, people always willing
555
:to sit down and have a chat.
556
:Daniel Edward: Where's the best
, place to buy clothes and textiles?
557
:'cause that's something that always
comes to mind for me as well.
558
:Vanessa Jev: Okay, so for clothes, I would
say the lucky arts market, that's where
559
:you're gonna get all of the boo boos.
560
:That's where they'll, it's one place.
561
:Everyone's kind of there selling
the booboos, the danki, those
562
:are the like African style tops.
563
:you've got the big, pants, the asho cape
pants made from the traditional fabrics,
564
:and you can barter so you don't have to
go with the first price they give you.
565
:just do a little back
and forth and then pay.
566
:That's the market.
567
:And then again, as you're driving
around, you'll see that every
568
:week there's different popups.
569
:So they have like little, tents that will
pop up, all over the place on the island,
570
:selling clothes and things like that.
571
:Daniel Edward: I love this popup scene.
572
:it keeps it exciting for locals
as much as it does for visitors.
573
:You never know quite what's coming.
574
:Vanessa Jev: Yeah, no, I was literally
driving down the street the other day
575
:and I was like, oh my gosh, like this,
this is a little tent, popup of clothes.
576
:I have to come back here.
577
:And I went the next
day and they were gone.
578
:I was like, I guess they've moved
579
:Daniel Edward: So it's one of those
things, see it and like it, buy it.
580
:Vanessa Jev: Yes.
581
:Yes.
582
:Daniel Edward: Don't hang about.
583
:And I love the bartering tip.
584
:that's very useful to know.
585
:another thing which I think would
be very useful for people to
586
:know, especially coming from North
America, is to people tip in Nigeria.
587
:Vanessa Jev: Yes, people do tip.
588
:You don't have to.
589
:But, people do tip, sometimes if
it's depending on where you're going.
590
:So if you're going to kind of a bit more
of a high end, restaurant or things like
591
:that, they'll include the tip in the bill.
592
:but most places, you can
do a thousand nira tip.
593
:It's normally fine or depending
on what, how much you've spent.
594
:Yeah.
595
:But tipping people tip.
596
:Daniel Edward: and what does a
thousand Nira sort of equate to?
597
:'cause a thousand sounds
quite a lot in pounds,
598
:Vanessa Jev: So
599
:let's look I think one pound
right now is:
600
:what can you get for a thousand Nara?
601
:You could get a stick of suya.
602
:You get, um, one skewer of suya,
which is sometimes more than enough.
603
:it can get you like little things like
a thousand Nira is normally, it can get
604
:you little, little things like candy,
sweets, maybe a little bit of puff puff.
605
:very, very small things.
606
:Yeah.
607
:Right.
608
:Daniel Edward: if you're staying around
for a week, chance are, you've got a bit
609
:of time to get out of the city as well.
610
:Maybe you want to get outta the city.
611
:Just to sort of cool off a bit, from the
hectic and frenetic side of city life,
612
:where would you say are some really
nice day trips or excursions to get a
613
:little bit beyond the heart of Lagos?
614
:Vanessa Jev: that you can go two ways.
615
:You can head into the mainland or
you can head deeper into the island.
616
:So if you're going to the mainland,
I think it, that's really to
617
:experience just different life.
618
:That's where, it's a bit
more residential areas.
619
:There's some really nice
restaurants on the mainland.
620
:I believe the fellow shrine is
there, the Africa shrine is there.
621
:So it's always a nice
place for people to go.
622
:And then if you've got a little
bit of time, I would say head,
623
:towards, deeper into the island
site and start going to the beaches.
624
:there's resorts that are, are kind of down
there that you can spend a whole day in.
625
:You can go horse riding, you
can do kind of the quad bikes.
626
:I would definitely head towards resort.
627
:It's a lack away.
628
:which you can do those in a about a day.
629
:You could do, you could go for a day
and come back in the evening for sure.
630
:Daniel Edward: And ES
has got the fish market.
631
:Vanessa Jev: Yes, there is a fish market.
632
:Daniel Edward: That's it.
633
:Brings it back to food.
634
:Can't get my mind off of it.
635
:what about beaches?
636
:Given that it's so hot and given that
you've got plenty of water around,
637
:where are some of the best options?
638
:Vanessa Jev: Yeah, so there's El
La Ghi Beach, which is actually
639
:really close to the NEA Art Gallery.
640
:on a good day, if there's no
traffic, it's about a 20 minute
641
:drive from VI to get to El la Ghi.
642
:And then when you get to Eleg, GHI Beach,
there's different kind of beaches on one
643
:strip of beach, so it's sectioned off.
644
:So you'll have Seoul Beach, you'll have,
wave Beach, you've got the Good Beach, and
645
:they all offer kind of different things.
646
:So Seoul Beach maybe it's a little bit
more parties, they've got the cabanas.
647
:Good Beach is more like food
and, DJs and things like that.
648
:So depending on, which one you
want to go to, they all have
649
:different price points to enter.
650
:You pay one main fee to kind of
get into the beach so that, I think
651
:it's like 2000 Nira to get in.
652
:And then you pay to enter the
specific area that you want to go to.
653
:Daniel Edward: Okay, so there's,
no such thing as a free beach.
654
:Vanessa Jev: No, there's no free beach?
655
:well, not that I know of.
656
:No.
657
:Most places are anywhere
that you're going to go.
658
:As a tourist, you're gonna pay for sure.
659
:Daniel Edward: And are you paying
in cash or you're paying on card?
660
:how does that balance work?
661
:Vanessa Jev: to get in,
you'll normally pay in cash.
662
:so let's just say it's Allego Beach.
663
:To get into El Lago Beach,
you're gonna pay:
664
:And then let's say when we get into the
beach, we want to go to the good beach.
665
:We can pay with our card, or you can
pay in cash to get into the Good beach.
666
:Daniel Edward: So funny that they called
it the Good Beach because it's basically
667
:saying all the others are bad beaches.
668
:Very clever naming there.
669
:Vanessa Jev: Right, right.
670
:Daniel Edward: something that I find
really surprising, given that, we've been
671
:talking all about how Lagos is essentially
this huge cultural hub and everything's
672
:there, and yet it's not the capital city.
673
:Vanessa Jev: It's not, it used
to be, it used to be way back in
674
:the day, Lagos was the capital
and then they moved it to Abuja.
675
:And it makes sense when you see Abuja and
Lagos, Abuja just has much more space.
676
:Things are a bit, calm or it
definitely gives capital vibes.
677
:It's a bit more, slow.
678
:And it makes sense.
679
:Lagos is so densely packed and busy.
680
:And it would be, it would be so tough.
681
:Daniel Edward: Would you recommend
doing a couple of days out to Abuja,
682
:to experience it or as a tourist,
it's not really something to do.
683
:Vanessa Jev: I personally love Abuja.
684
:I think it's always great to go and
it's only an hour plane ride from
685
:Lagos, and it's not too expensive.
686
:So I would definitely say go to
Abuja and get a couple days in there.
687
:It's, a beautiful city.
688
:the landscaping, it's, like
I said, it's really big.
689
:So driving, you've got Asso Rock,
which is where the president lives
690
:and it's like a really big, rock
that they say has a face in it.
691
:It's got all this like lore around it.
692
:I would definitely say it's worth
doing a trip to, Abuja for sure.
693
:Most definitely do it.
694
:Daniel Edward: back to Lagos and I would
like to know your top thing to see or do.
695
:Vanessa Jev: top things for
me to see would be seeing a
696
:theatre show at Terra culture.
697
:Absolutely must do it was
on my bucket list, so yes.
698
:Daniel Edward: What's your
top Taurus trap to avoid?
699
:Vanessa Jev: you can do a
lot of things by yourself.
700
:You don't need a guide per se.
701
:You don't always have to
pay for a lot of things.
702
:A lot of things are free.
703
:So, I would say avoid, people who
keep asking you for money or saying,
704
:oh, you have to pay to get in here.
705
:A lot of these places have websites.
706
:Make sure you check so, you
know, nobody's trying to upsell
707
:you on it with a fake price.
708
:'cause something might be a 2000 nira
and they're telling you to pay 10,000
709
:Nira 'cause they think you don't know.
710
:So I would just avoid paying to enter
into a lot of places unless it's
711
:like, you know, a museum or the beach.
712
:Most places are free to get into.
713
:Daniel Edward: What's your favourite
time of year for someone to visit Lagos?
714
:Vanessa Jev: December,
absolutely de December.
715
:Everything's going on,
theater's happening, concerts.
716
:All of the stars are doing
like DeVito, whizkid burner,
717
:boy, they'll all be performing.
718
:December is the best time.
719
:Daniel Edward: If somebody's thinking
about going, or indeed they've booked
720
:and they wanna get into a good book or
a film about Lagos or just connected
721
:to it to get them in the mood, is
there something you'd recommend?
722
:Vanessa Jev: A film, I would
say Christmas in Lagos is a
723
:great film to watch for a book.
724
:there's one that went a bit viral
called Nearly All the Men in Lagos
725
:are Mad, it's a really funny book.
726
:Daniel Edward: And is it true?
727
:Vanessa Jev: I would say so.
728
:Daniel Edward: what's your top food or
drink to try when someone visits Lagos?
729
:Vanessa Jev: You've got to go
with the Chapman and the Swia.
730
:It's combination perfection.
731
:Yes.
732
:Daniel Edward: And final question.
733
:If somebody's heading out there and they
wanna get a good authentic souvenir,
734
:not a fridge magnet or a cap, what
can they get that's from Lagos and
735
:is authentically connected to Lagos?
736
:Vanessa Jev: So the public transport here
on the mainland, they're called Danfo
737
:buses and they're very distinctly Lagos.
738
:The minute you see them,
you know, it's a Lagos bus.
739
:They're yellow, and they have a
black stripe that goes across them.
740
:So I think getting a little carving
of them is always really nice.
741
:'cause sometimes they'll say like leggos,
they'll like write leggos on the carving.
742
:And they're really small.
743
:So you can, you can get them, well, you
can get them in any size, but you can
744
:get the small ones that you can put in
your, like hand luggage or something.
745
:Daniel Edward: Vanessa from
the Lagos International Theatre
746
:Festival, thank you so much for
our knocking Lagos for us today.
747
:Vanessa Jev: Thank you.
748
:Thank you so much for having me.
749
:It's been such a pleasure.
750
:Daniel Edward: Thank you very much again
to Vanessa Jev, the director of the
751
:Lagos International Theatre Festival,
for giving us an insight into her adopted
752
:home, and especially giving us that
inside of you of the art scene there.
753
:If you head on out there, do make
sure to get some time in at the
754
:music venues, at the theatres,
and send me a message afterwards.
755
:Tell me what you think of it.
756
:Can't wait to hear.
757
:If you've just found Destination
Unlocked today, then do consider
758
:following the podcast wherever you
are currently listening That way
759
:you'll be able to easily find us again
the next time you want to discover
760
:somewhere new around the world.
761
:I'll see you then.
762
:Bye-bye.