Eric See is a New Mexican-born and raised chef, living in Brooklyn, NY. In 2020, he opened the popular and award winning New Mexican-inspired cafe, Ursula, where he has worked to support and celebrate his intersectional queer and New Mexican-Hispanic identities. His restaurant was a 2022 top 10 nominee for Best New Restaurant by the James Beard Foundation and a 2021 Bon Appetit Heads of The Table honoree for his work within the queer food community.
In this episode of How Art is Born season 2, Eric See and host, R. Alan Brooks, discuss Eric’s love of hospitality, his journey to becoming a pastry chef and eventually opening his own restaurant, activism and supporting his LGBTQ+ community in New York and beyond, and much more!
[INTRO] Dele Johnson:
sodes in January and February: R. Alan Brooks (:Welcome to How Art is Born a podcast from the Museum of Contemporary Art Denver, about the origins of artists and their creative and artistic practices. I'm your host, R. Alan Brooks, artist, writer, and professor. Today I'm joined by Brooklyn-based. Chef Eric See. Say hello, Eric.
Eric See (:Hello, everybody.
R. Alan Brooks (:Oh, that--. What kinda podcast is this? Cause there's a lot to unpack there,
Hmm. Okay. That's really cool, man. I gotta say, uh, you know, we had a, a chef on last season and, um, my ignorance around the culinary art rings true and consistent. But one of the things that I think is really dope is hearing about, um, how this is an expression of what you believe, um, and looking into your work, I know activism's a big part of it too. So I guess one of my sort of beginning questions is how did you first sort of define your relationship with food? What was, what stood out? What was the first time it spoke to you?
Eric See (:Um, I, to be honest, I don't know that my relationship with food was defined, uh, early on. It was a relationship with hospitality.
R. Alan Brooks (:Ah, okay.
Eric See (:And also, um, I think that food is like the great connector across cultures and languages, uh, false boundaries of nationalism. And I used to want to be a travel agent when I was a kid. That was like my dream
But, uh, I just, I always love the idea of, uh, cultural exchange and, and traveling and getting to hear and listen to new stories about people that I was unfamiliar with their traditions, because you really only know what you know
R. Alan Brooks (:Right.
Eric See (:Until you know something else. And so I really loved getting to experience, um, cultures outside of mine. And I used to work in an airport diner when I was 11. And, uh, there would be these pilots of be landing, they're all from different parts of the US just for a couple hours. They'd be exchanging stories about what they did in Nebraska or El Paso or wherever they were coming from. And just that exchange, I think kind of, of really kind of, uh, catalyzed more of my interest in, in travel and food and cultural exchange. Um. And I, I spent 14 years in the front of house, um, doing service and hospitality. I used to work at a, at a hotel in the front office. And I loved that. I just, I like taking care of people.
R. Alan Brooks (:Yeah! Well, no, this is really cool. Uh, there, there's, uh, I don't know, it's just a really distinct image of you being 11 years old working in the airport, uh, sort of collecting these stories or overhearing these stories. So was, was that like the, the interest in hospitality, the interest in exchange and cultures, was that something you discovered in that position when you were 11? Or do you feel like it was just kind of always with you?
Eric See (:I, I, I get, I would imagine that it's always been with me. Oh, there's, there were a few pieces of that. I had a very like, entrepreneurial spirit when I was a kid too. And maybe what clicked then was like having cash in my hand,
Right.
Eric See (:Because being a little server at 11 years old and people giving me cash tips, I'd go home and like, with little wads of, of dollar bills in my hands. And that was really, uh, energizing my entrepreneurial spirit. I used to sell newspapers outside the grocery store. I used to host little fundraisers at my elementary school to raise money for clubs that I made up, um,
R. Alan Brooks (:But I think it was just, uh, the things that you don't necessarily understand to connect were probably the connectors when I was younger.
R. Alan Brooks (:Hmm. Okay. So there's a part of what you were saying where like you're, you're overhearing these stories about people having experiences and, um, connecting with other cultures. Um, it feels like there's that aspect of it, but there's also the aspect of it, which is you bringing other people together. Um, and I wonder at what point that part of it formed for you?
Eric See (:That part, I, I would say probably started to change when I owned my own cafe. Prior to Ursula, I had a small cafe um, in Bushwick in Brooklyn. And it was, um, it was a different concept, but I had indoor space, I had seating, I had the ability and resources to, to gather people. And one of my, um, big loves and interests is being able to reinvest in, communicate, in uh communities and to reallocate resources and to understand your privilege and share that with other people. And I understood that I have a, had a privilege to run and own a business in Brooklyn, which is incredibly difficult to do. And I wanted to use that space to share with the community. So we were able to host different queer organizations to have their meetings or fundraisers. We, um, had a lot of wall space in there. We had a, a ton of, uh, walls and really great light. So Uh, I worked with local artists in the community to allow them to display their art and we would host like a, a gallery opening for them. Um, to be able to allow them to be celebrated. And that was when I really got to delve into that. I was in event production and catering for like, seven years before that. Um, so it was a big part of like, celebration and getting people together and having parties and hosting parties. But that was the first time that I got to do it in a more meaningful way that wasn't entirely centered around, um, like a consumerist and capitalistic view. I'm not gonna say that, that's not a driving force for a business cuz we had a for-profit business. But it was, um, an opportunity for me to be able to use my resources for the community without the expectation of making money off of it.
R. Alan Brooks (:It's cool cuz it sounds like it, uh, might, might have been more rewarding in a different way.
Eric See (:A hundred percent.
R. Alan Brooks (:Yeah. Huh.
Eric See (:I got to do a lot of really cool events. I got to experience why there's far too much money in New York when it comes to event production for big brands and for, uh, artists and musicians out here. So that was incredible to see those kinds of events come to fruition. Um, but yeah, it didn't feel like it had the, the meaning and the, the soul and the integrity of being able to have a small gathering for people who don't have the resources to do it, uh, outside of those situations.
R. Alan Brooks (:Right. Okay. Okay. So let's run it back. So we were talking about, um, this experience when you're 11, these kind of ideas of exchanging culture. You were saying that your way into this world is of love, of hospitality. Um, I want, I want to hear a little more of like what's your journey was. So like in high school, were you connecting hospitality with food? Did you--was it college? Like, how did you kind of find your way on this path?
Eric See (:I would say that, yeah, it's kind of always been, it's always, it's been omnipresent my whole life. Um, wanting to be part of celebrations when I was a kid. Um, but I've, in terms of hospitality and getting to like, run my own show or like be my own act, uh, I've worked in restaurants, um, since I was like 14 outside of this, uh, illegal trade of child labor when I was 11
I grew up outside of Old Town Albuquerque. So the restaurant that I was working at was, um, in a very like, tourist heavy area. So I got to talk to a lot of people about the culture where I come from and the menu that I'm very familiar with. Uh, and that was exciting. I think, um, I've always, even when I didn't think I was gonna go into hospitality, cause it was never, it was actually never a, a career path that I had envisioned. I went to college to study linguistics and I thought about doing kinesiology. Um hmm. And it wasn't, I was always waiting tables or like in a restaurant part-time from 14 on. And, uh, it, it didn't ever strike me as a, as a career choice. In fact. Like I kind of looked down upon people that were career waiters when I was younger and it was like, oh, how sad to
And now to this day, I'm like, I get it. It's a love, it's a passion. And also I have, as a business owner now, I kind of envy those people that were career servers cause they have so much freedom in their life. Mm-hmm.
Well, you know, it's interesting cuz there's a lot of people who, uh, look at food service as a career that you do while you're trying to do your real thing. Um, yes. And it sounds like you might have had some of that, but now you've found a life and passion within it. Um,
Eric See (:Yeah. I don't know. I think I always wanted to be adjacent to food because it was, uh, because it was adjacent to travel mm-hmm.
Hmm. Okay. It's just, it is interesting cause it's just cool to hear like, um, I don't know what it means to you, you know, like what your journey is, how your passion connected to it all. Okay. So you went through this thing of, um, working in different restaurants. Um, so was the next step for you to start your own? Or was it to grow within and establish one? How did that kind of work?
Eric See (:Well, so I was waiting tables in New Mexico, uh, 12 years ago. Um, and my journey to the kitchen was a result of a failing relationship. Uh, I, I was dating somebody who was a hairstylist and they didn't like that I worked at night. The impetus was on me to change my life and my schedule. Right. And so I was exploring other avenues for, um, what my career or future might look like. And so I decided to go to culinary school. Um, and I started that and I was like, wait a minute. Uh, I, I started with the, the idea of going into food and beverage management. I want, I wanted to be like a sommelier or work with uh, like a bar program.
R. Alan Brooks (:Right.
Eric See (:And then I was like, wait a minute. They work at night too, so that's not gonna work.
Yes. You just had a new novel come out. Yes?
R. Alan Brooks (:Oh, look at that. You look some stuff up. Nice
Sometimes we need that, sometimes we need something to shake us up like that.
[AD] Valerie Cassel Oliver (:Hi, this is Valerie Cassell Oliver curator of the exhibition, The Dirty South Contemporary Art Material Culture and the Sonic Impulse. Occupying three floors at MCA Denver, The Dirty South makes visible the roots of southern hiphop culture and reveals how the aesthetic traditions of the African American South have shaped the visual art and musical expression over the last 100 years. This exhibition features an intergenerational group of artists working in a variety of genres, from sculpture to painting and drawing to photography and film, as well as sound pieces and large scale installation works. Head over to MCA denver.org/visit and use the code TDS 20, that's T D S 2 0 for a 20% discount on general admission for this exhibition, which is on view until February 5th, 2023.
R. Alan Brooks (:Alright, so you're in, you're in New York. Uh, you're doing the pastry thing. It's okay. So the reason, uh, I'm really digging this conversation cuz it's cool to hear what it all meant to you as a kid, um, kind of your journey. Because, you know, like in your bio, uh, you know, info about you like saying it says that, um, that you was, that you made a cake for Beyonce or did dessert experiences. Right?
Eric See (:I have done that, yes.
R. Alan Brooks (:Okay. Yes. Uh, I, I will ask a little more about it. Obviously don't say more than you wanna say about it, but I just think it's an interesting thing that you've gone from, um, you know, maybe being a travel agent
Uh, it was still, it was still focused on pastries. Um, I moved here, my brother lived here already and I was living on his couch. Yeah. And he had agreed to house me for six months. Um, I will also say that I was interning here for free and working for $8 an hour,
And I was like, all right, fair, fair, fair, fair. You gave me six months of free rent. Um, and you're right. Like, you have to be thrown to the wolves out here if you're actually gonna look to succeed
Yeah. Yeah.
Eric See (:And I, I did that. I did, uh, pastry for events and, uh, event production. And I worked for a lot of like fashion and beauty lines. Uh, Beyonce. I did desserts for, uh, Rihanna when she, when they released the Fenty line the first time around, I had to make desserts that were all, um, kind of reminiscent of some kind of piece of makeup. So like, something that was the same shade as this lipstick or that looked like lipstick. Uh, I would do stuff--
R. Alan Brooks (:Wait, I wanna ask before you go on, like, that's, that's really dope. Cause now we're getting into like the, the really sort of artsy part of this, right? Like, so, so, uh, so Rihanna's people or whatever are saying like, okay, we want to do a dessert that matches this makeup. So do you, how do you start, do you start with like, okay, well here's something that's blue, or are you thinking like terms of like, uh, the emotion, you know, how do you connect it?
Eric See (:Kind of, A lot of times it's very literal. So what, um, your first you're thinking about colors? And then I look at the logo, a lot of times they would send you a design deck.
R. Alan Brooks (:Okay.
Eric See (:So you picked stuff off, off of the design deck. You look for different textures. Um, so it's like, all right, this would be really great if it was cast in chocolate, cuz that's very smooth. Then you can get it really shiny. Um, or maybe it's something that should be like a, a cocoa butter that's sprayed on if you need like a rough sandy texture. So Right. Looking through the, the design decks, you'd pull different ideas and textures. It also depended on who the audience was gonna be for these. So you had to make stuff that was either gonna be like a literal piece of art that some people might not touch, but it was gonna be photographed. Or that 5,000 screaming Rihanna fans were all gonna want to like, throw in their mouth. So you gotta make it. So I think for them, I did like a hexagonal shaped, um, like mini cheesecake with this pink hexagon of white chocolate so that it kind of looked like lipstick
No.
Eric See (:It, it becomes very slimy. Like you let 'em hydrate and it's like a basil seed or a chia seed. Its very slimy, like a pudding. And then if you spread it out over a silicone mat and dehydrate it, uhhuh
Oh okay.
Eric See (:It's basically like creating a fruit rollup. But um, it would have the texture with the seeds or it would have the flavor of the passion fruit
Well, it is fascinating to me because it's like, uh, well first of all, just the idea of, um, you designing desserts for an aesthetic look. But I guess one of my questions is how do you know, like, how do you know what chia seeds do when it comes? Is it just experience? It's the stuff that you have picked up over the years? Uh, and then I'll ask my next question after that.
Eric See (:Ok
Eric See (:YouTube helps. Um, I have a ton of cookbooks too. So looking through those kinds of things. Yeah. Um, following people online. Yeah. There's a lot, there's so many resources out there for you to learn this kind of stuff.
R. Alan Brooks (:That's so cool. I mean, cause I do that with comic book art, but for some reason within the culinary world, it, you know, it just doesn't even occur to me. Uh, okay. And then is there, um, do you have a specific direction for flavor or taste when you're doing those kind of things? Like, obviously you want it to taste good, but you're thinking about like the look you're designing and stuff like that. But are you also saying, okay, um, the thing that's going to match this look will be strawberry. I don't know. You know, something like that?
Eric See (:Uh, yeah, absolutely. I think it makes sense to, um, coordinate a color with a recognizable flavor. So, oh. Um, doing a blueberry flavored, uh, dessert with a, with a pink shell on it, it doesn't really make sense to the person. Unless what you're trying to do is, uh, counter what the psychology is of a color, which is stuff that you've had to do in events before as well. But, um, yeah, normally you kind of, uh, make sure that the flavors, the colors, the textures are all linear so that it, it's not off-putting for the guests when they're eating it. I've had to do a lot of stuff with, uh, like candle companies too. So they'll send me the, the scent of this new candle that they're, um, releasing. And so I have to find the esters or compounds that are in the candle that would be palatable. Um, that you would want to eat or something that gives you the illusion of musk without having to eat something like that. Or, uh, what's the ambergris is one of 'em that I've had to do before. And I can't remember what I did before to like, create that idea, but I don't know if you know what ambergris is. It's like--Uh, it's the excrements of whales that are like found in the ocean floating.
R. Alan Brooks (:That's such a pretty name.
Yeah, no, it is
Um, it's both. It's both because it's my, it's part of my identity. And you--that's inextricably tied to my, to my lived experience, which then is manifested in my food
Oh, wow. Yeah. Uh, I, I guess, uh, just for people listening, we should note that we're recording this just a couple days after the, uh, Colorado Spring shooting in the Club Q um,
Um, I think that that's a, again, it's like inextricably tied to my work
MCA Denver at the holiday theater is a hub for the arts located in this historic 400 seat theater. We aim to realize one of a kind creative experiences for audiences that spark curiosity challenge conventions, inspire and delight. Visit mcadenver.org to learn more about the robust schedule of museum driven and collaborative programming.
R. Alan Brooks (:I feel you there. I think that's very well said. I, I think, um, I don't know man, people who, uh, attack, basically, they just want us to all be smaller and quieter and in that box. There was a couple years ago I got death threats over a graphic novel that I was working on that was an allegory for leaving white supremacist movements
Yeah. I mean, it, it's not the only way we gotta, we gotta be more effective at policy making and
R. Alan Brooks (:No doubt.
Eric See (:changing laws to protect us all. Uh Rand to dismantle the, uh, systems of white supremacy and oppression too.
R. Alan Brooks (:Yeah. And, uh, showing up and removing the people from office who are fighting against those goals. Uh, there's this whole, uh, you know, I mean, uh, I'm sure you've been around a lot of dis disenfranchised people like I have who, uh, question whether it makes any--whether there's any value in voting. I know it's a little off topic, but it just makes me think about like, if if there was no value to it, then why are, why are so many people invested in making a stop? Why are they spending so much money to change laws and districts and, you know, whatever, uh, to, to rob people of the vote? I don't know. Just No, do you--
Eric See (:I know. No, it's true. It's, uh, it's, it, it, you feel powerless often. You feel powerless yesterday, you feel powerless during elections when the right people aren't winning these elections. And that's, that is the purpose. It's supposed to be taking away our power in our voice.
R. Alan Brooks (:Which goes back to making us smaller again. Right.
Eric See (:Yeah, exactly. But that's also, that's why it's so imperative to, um, to find ways to continue telling your own story through your art, whether that's, um, through a expression of queerness or through an expression of, uh, like racial or ethnic identity, whatever it is, and telling your story through that. So cuz it's always gonna, it's gonna reach somebody else that's like, oh, wait, yeah, I had forgot that that's part of my identity because there have been so many people trying to remove that from who I am.
R. Alan Brooks (:Right.
Eric See (:And so when you continue to hear more and more people talking about it, then it makes you feel stronger and empowered
R. Alan Brooks (:You know, uh, th this, there's this theme I think with all of the different artists that I talked to on this podcast, just about how our art is a way of, I don't know, expressing some part of our humanity, you know, and, um, and also the interest in experiencing the humanity of other people. So it's really, uh, uh, inspiring, refreshing to hear how it manifests in your practice. I just think that's, it's just dope, you know, mental high five.
Eric See (:I saw the trailers. I haven't seen it yet. Yeah.
Eric See (:It was, it was really good. It's, uh, it's kind of like a, a dark comedy horror, but, um, there's a lot of commentary on the, like, egoism of, uh, chefs these days. But also just the way that consumerism ruins, uh, the joy for artists in general, the way that they, um, have become their own like self-proclaimed, uh, experts in things. Or the way like food reviewers for magazines and newspapers, uh, come in and will write a terrible review and just ruin the, the livelihoods of dozens of people um, and essentially shutting down a restaurant with one bad review. Uh, and the way that people just break down your food as though they understand where it's coming from or what it's supposed to mean. And it's the same way with the way that people receive art through music or I, I've learned a lot about the way that I try to talk about other people's art. That if that it's not, I've tried to reframe my verbiage, uh, that if something, if I don't like something, it's not that it's not good, it's just not for me. That's fine. Not everything is to meant to be received by me.
And I think that we live in this, uh, this world now of exceptionalism and individualism in New York, but also like, uh, I mean in America and where we're supposed to have access to everything and people aren't used to being told no. They don't like being told no. So if this painting sitting in front of me isn't for me, I'm being told "no" that I can't, that I can't have this, that it wasn't made for me. And that's upsetting to people. And it's like, no, it's just, it's not for you. And that's okay. There'll be another one.
I love that.
Eric See (:And it's, yeah, it's an expression of people's lives. Like there are things on the menu that are there because of lived experiences that are be--that are because of my queerness or because of my family having been in New Mexico for 400 years. This being so deeply rooted in that region or just, um, my travels or we have, uh, some herbal teas that are tea lattes there that I've blended myself from a period of time when I, uh, took for some sobriety cuz I had, uh, struggled with some alcoholism and was not drinking for a little while. And so I'm one of those people that always need some kind of vice at the end of the night,
I love that you're saying it cuz it, you know, so I found for myself when I was younger, I expressing strong opinions on movies or television shows or whatever, um, that even though I was saying something that was true to me, that I was robbing other people of their enjoyment of something. And so, uh, my
Eric See (:That's a them problem
R. Alan Brooks (:I think I, I have, I have some good friends and family that I talk a lot of things through. Um, I think this goes back to, I'm often asked like what advice I have for small business owners
Hmm. That's that's good because it, it, it ties into, uh, community and, um, like all the things, all the themes that you've been talking about this whole time about people sort of coming together, hospitality, community, all of that stuff. And it ends up being sort of your your way outta fear too, which is I think
Eric See (:Yeah, no, absolutely. I, they're my community, my friends and family are my biggest cheerleaders. And so also when you're a asking questions, that's at time for them to, uh, kind of reinstate your value for you. Remind you who you are, remind you that you are powerful or that you are an artist. Um, and sometimes you just need to hear that. Cuz we have our own like internal monologues, uh, that are trying to beat us down
R. Alan Brooks (:Oh man, that's, uh, that's a lot.
Yeah.
Eric See (:That has been very gratifying for me. And also just learning all the history and information that we weren't taught or that was hidden from us.
R. Alan Brooks (:Hmm. Okay. Well, uh, excuse me. What do you have on, uh, horizon? Like what's, what's coming up for you?
Eric See (:Um, I'm about to release our second annual holigays, cookie box. Uh, nice. That's a fundraiser for, um, the Ali Forney Center. Again,
R. Alan Brooks (:Holigays
(:which I just discussed holigays, happy holigays,
Ah. Well good luck.
Eric See (:Right now. I don't know how much you know about our spot, but we were open, I opened during the pandemic as like a, a response to not having a job. I was afraid that nobody was gonna hire a pastry chef. Um, for the next couple years I opened this spot as a takeout spot thinking it was gonna get me through the next year, and then I'd figure it out. And we're two and a half years in, we don't have indoor seating. Winter is coming. Ah, uh, new Yorkers have a little less patience for it this year than they did the last two years
R. Alan Brooks (:So I'm excited to have indoor seating.
R. Alan Brooks (:Okay. I mean,
Uh, Instagram @ursula_brooklyn or my own social media is @erictheawkwardscone
Thank you. I appreciate you all having me. And I, I was really excited to, uh, have a connection to the Rocky Mountain region. So thank you Denver
R. Alan Brooks (: