Guyana is one of South America’s least familiar destinations, yet it offers something increasingly rare: immense wilderness, extraordinary wildlife and travel experiences still rooted in small communities rather than mass tourism.

Travel writer Becca Marsh joins Daniel to share what she discovered during six weeks travelling across Guyana while updating the fourth edition of the Bradt Guide to Guyana.

From the thundering waters of Kaieteur Falls to the remote eco-lodges and wildlife-rich savannahs of the Rupununi, Becca takes us inside a country where journeys are part of the adventure. She recalls searching for jaguars, catching red-bellied piranhas, learning from Indigenous communities and discovering the unexpected flavours of Guyanese cuisine.

In this episode:

• Why Kaieteur Falls is one of the world’s great wilderness spectacles

• What it is like to travel through Guyana’s remote interior

• Community-owned eco-lodges and Indigenous-led tourism

• Encounters with giant river otters, caimans, piranhas and elusive jaguars

• The realities of Guyana’s roads, rivers and light-aircraft journeys

• Georgetown and Guyana’s remarkable mix of cultures

• Coconut choka, cassava and the dishes visitors should try

• Why Guyana rewards travellers who are curious, flexible and willing to slow down

This is an episode for wildlife lovers, adventurous travellers and anyone searching for a destination that still feels genuinely undiscovered.

ABOUT BECCA MARSH

Becca Marsh is a travel writer, editor and Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society. Her work has taken her around the world, including an overland journey from London to Bangkok as part of the Global Convoy community.

She spent six weeks travelling around Guyana to update the fourth edition of the Bradt Guide to Guyana.

FIND OUT MORE

Becca’s website:

https://www.beccamarsh.com/

Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/beccamarsh_/

LinkedIn:

https://www.linkedin.com/in/becca-marsh-frgs

Bradt’s Guyana guide:

https://www.bradtguides.com/destinations/central-south-america/guyana/

Global Convoy:

https://www.globalconvoy.com/our-story

Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/globalconvoy/

LISTEN AND FOLLOW

Discover more destinations and travel stories at:

https://destinationunlocked.com/

Follow Destination Unlocked wherever you get your podcasts so you never miss an episode.

This is destination unlocked with me, Daniel Edward.

2

Hello, welcome back to

Destination Unlocked.

3

My name is Daniel Edward, and Destination

Unlocked is the Conversational Travel

4

Podcast where each week I'm joined by a

different local or a travel expert who

5

unlocks a different part of the world.

6

And this week we're

going to South America.

7

And when people say about South

America, there are usually

8

certain countries that you can bet

that they've got on their list.

9

This isn't one of them.

10

This is one of those places

which I think can still claim

11

to be off the beaten track.

12

And our guest today, Becca Marsh,

has spent a good few weeks out

13

there researching the updated

edition of The Brat Guide to Guyana.

14

Enjoy.

15

So Becca, where are you

unlocking for us today?

16

Becca Marsh: Today I am unlocking

Guyana, where I spent six weeks

17

at the beginning of this year.

18

Daniel Edward: Six weeks.

19

That's an amazing amount of

time I think we ought to say

20

that wasn't a holiday, was it?

21

Becca Marsh: no, but it

definitely was enjoyable.

22

I was updating the Brat Guide to Guyana,

so it was a research trip, but also a good

23

opportunity to discover a new country.

24

Daniel Edward: So you hadn't

been there before this trip.

25

Becca Marsh: No, this was my first visit.

26

I've spent quite a lot of time in South

America, mostly on the west, coast as

27

I do a lot of overlanding adventures

and naturally the Pan American Highway

28

is a bit better connected that side.

29

So this was my first time really to the

east of South America and to Guyana.

30

Daniel Edward: And so what stood out

for you most as a first time visitor

31

who got quite an in-depth time there?

32

Becca Marsh: Oh gosh.

33

it was very different to

anywhere that I'd visited before.

34

I think two things that really stood

out for me were just the endless nature.

35

I've been to the Amazon before.

36

It's beautiful.

37

it's pristine jungle, but

Guyana was something new.

38

I was just continuously blown

away by the amount of wildlife

39

and the biodiversity there.

40

as well as, on more of a

cultural side, the food and the

41

fusion of different cultures.

42

Daniel Edward: The only things

that I know about Guyana at this

43

point in time it's got a lot of

jaguars and it's the only place in

44

South America that speaks English,

45

Becca Marsh: Yes.

46

Daniel Edward: which means the Jaguars

part is irrelevant to this part,

47

but it means that a few different

people ended up there compared to

48

the vast majority of what would be

in some cases called Latin America.

49

This doesn't seem to be Latin

America, though it is South America.

50

Becca Marsh: Yeah, for sure.

51

Guyana has quite a complex history

which I don't think I can fully go into

52

detail here, the land has been settled

by different people over the years.

53

You have the indigenous people

there, but Guyanese also, refer to

54

themselves as the land of six nations.

55

because they've had various different

people through history visit, settle.

56

the Spanish did arrive

there years and years ago.

57

but decided that it was too

difficult to settle ' Guyana

58

actually means, land of many waters.

59

they don't really have

much beach, coastline.

60

It's mangroves and silt and mud, which

if you imagine you're trying to build

61

infrastructure or create some sort of

trade is a really difficult environment.

62

it was most recently under British

63

actually just celebrated, their

60th year of independence so yeah,

64

that's why they speak English.

65

Daniel Edward: And that gives

away a little bit of why their

66

capital is Georgetown as well,

because there are quite a few

67

Georgetowns in the Caribbean region.

68

and given that Guyana is, northeast

of South America as a continent.

69

Becca Marsh: Yeah, it's just south of

Venezuela, Brazil kind of comes around it.

70

So the Amazon joins, Guyana's,

west, and then you have,

71

Surinam and French Guiana below.

72

Daniel Edward: From having a look

at online research, I think for

73

a small place, there's a very

distinct feel about it that I didn't

74

get elsewhere in the continent.

75

Becca Marsh: Yes, it is very unique

and, whilst there has been a tourist

76

destination for a number of years,

and it's, attracted, explorers and

77

adventurers for centuries, it's also

a little bit under discovered, and

78

in a way, I think that's perhaps what

makes it so unique because you don't

79

have these huge, resorts and hotels.

80

It's still very much, authentic, and

you don't get huge crowds going either.

81

I would say tourism is relatively

new in the area, I don't think

82

many people know about Guyana.

83

I mean, even myself, I knew it was

there, but I suppose it's a little bit

84

overshadowed by Venezuela and Brazil.

85

It's larger neighbours.

86

You don't necessarily

know so much about it.

87

Daniel Edward: And that's the gift of it.

88

you knew where it was.

89

I have to be honest.

90

I didn't, I would've put my pin in a

totally different place on the map.

91

I'm not even going to admit where

I would've put it, it was a very

92

wrong, very wrong geographically.

93

would you fly into Georgetown

Is that their airport?

94

Is that where you would start your trip?

95

Becca Marsh: Yeah, Georgetown is I

think actually the only, international

96

airport for the country and most of the

population lives along the coastline

97

where Georgetown is, as you get into

the interior, there's a lot less

98

infrastructure, actually one of the best

ways to get around is by small plane.

99

So there are various airports and

landing strips, but Georgetown

100

is the hub for flying in from

an international destination.

101

Daniel Edward: Did you

do the small planes?

102

Becca Marsh: I did, yes,

they were quite fun.

103

You get incredible views over the jungle.

104

Daniel Edward: Wow,

That does sound amazing.

105

It's slightly terrifying.

106

Becca Marsh: I felt pretty safe.

107

but I dunno, maybe, maybe I'm

just naive to the possibilities

108

of things that could go wrong.

109

I dunno.

110

Daniel Edward: I mean, you've

got a pretty adventurous spirit,

111

which we will cover in a bit.

112

But, let's start in Georgetown and

then let's join you on one of these

113

little flights that sounds slightly

terrifying, but apparently safe.

114

, And we'll go into the valleys.

115

in Georgetown itself,

what would you find there?

116

Becca Marsh: Georgetown being the

capital, is home to where all the

117

government buildings, facilities are.

118

You've got a lot of, colonial history

there with different monuments, buildings.

119

It's, really the point where

the country comes together.

120

in terms of tourism, I'm

not a huge city lover.

121

I prefer, nature and wildlife.

122

However, I did have a really nice

time in Georgetown it's where you'll

123

find a lot of the, fusion of culture.

124

So it's great for food, food tours, and

it's actually a really good base if you've

125

only got a few days, it's a good place to

be if you want to make day trips because

126

it has most access to the country, right?

127

Daniel Edward: are these day trips

via Cessna or are they via a bus?

128

Becca Marsh: they vary depending

on where you want to go.

129

So I did do a day trip to KA Falls, which

is one of the, national parks up in the

130

mountains, which the only way to access it

unless you want to do a multiple day over

131

landing adventure is by a small plane.

132

but Guyana has a lot of different

tour operators and the best way to get

133

around, they use their own mini buses.

134

There are public buses too, but

the most efficient is booking

135

with one of these companies.

136

for example, one of my favourite

day trips was to a place called the

137

Mahaka River, where you can see the

National Bird, the Cange pheasant.

138

It looks very prehistoric.

139

It's really interesting.

140

but this was, a couple of hours

drive with one of those mini buses

141

and then you do a small boat trip.

142

it was very accessible.

143

maybe a six hour half

day tour or something.

144

Daniel Edward: It is almost

like a mini dinosaur.

145

Is it this bird?

146

Becca Marsh: You have

to see a picture of it.

147

Daniel Edward: I want I,

yeah, I want look it up.

148

Becca Marsh: I apologise

if I pronounce this wrong.

149

Hoatzin, I think is the, actual name, but

the locals call it the cange pheasant.

150

So it is brown.

151

It looks, I guess, fairly similar to a

pheasant, but it has these feathers on top

152

of its head and the eyes are just so red.

153

Daniel Edward: It looks like a rockstar.

154

Becca Marsh: yeah.

155

Daniel Edward: abs.

156

It's like, I'm not sure that anyone

in Ghana is gonna be very pleased

157

with me here, but it is like an

anaemic chicken with a mohawk and

158

it's been up for days using some,

some form of injected substance.

159

And so its eyes are just like these wide

circles that will never sleep again.

160

Slightly bloodshot.

161

How interest, what a bird.

162

and if you go up there, you're

pretty much guaranteed to see them.

163

Are you?

164

Becca Marsh: Yeah, so the Mahaka

River is known as a hotspot for them.

165

they like to live in the mangroves,

so along the coastal rivers is

166

where, they usually are found.

167

But yeah, this particular river,

we saw lots of them dotted,

168

throughout the mangroves as we were

driving or taking the boat through.

169

Daniel Edward: They

170

Becca Marsh: I don't remember

them making much of a noise.

171

There were howler monkeys around those,

so they were making most of the noise.

172

Daniel Edward: and what other wildlife did

you get to see while you were out there?

173

Becca Marsh: I got to see a,

a fair amount of wildlife.

174

I went with, quite little expectation

of what I would see just because

175

I know how difficult it can be.

176

when you're not on a reserve, when

it is really just natural wildlife.

177

There is no guarantee.

178

but I saw many bird species.

179

I saw the cock of the rock, which

is quite a famous bird that's

180

I think, endemic to the Guinan

shield A very vibrant orange bird.

181

I saw loads of Cayman, anacondas,

the peckery, which are kind of

182

like a small wild boar thing.

183

the dark frogs, lots of different

creatures and creepy crawlies.

184

like you mentioned earlier,

jaguars are often seen.

185

I didn't see any on my trip, did yeah,

probably I stayed at a ranch in the ru

186

panini, which is where the savannas are.

187

And one of our activities

was placing camera traps.

188

And the host about a week later,

sent me the footage ' and there were

189

two Jaguars that were in the area.

190

So I didn't get to see them in person.

191

But they were definitely around.

192

I was moving around quite quickly just

to get a good overview of the country,

193

but if you wanted to go and see Jaguars,

obviously you could be based in a

194

place for a bit longer than I was.

195

Daniel Edward: So cool that you

were getting involved in projects.

196

How easy is it to do that?

197

Becca Marsh: I think Guyana is quite

big for conservation and, ecotourism.

198

So quite a lot of the lodges

and ranches offer opportunities

199

for tourists to get involved.

200

something that was quite unique to

me was like I mentioned earlier,

201

there's not huge resorts and hotels.

202

Everything is very much,

sort of community run.

203

a lot of the indigenous communities have

their own eco lodge that tourists can

204

go and stay at, and many of them have

different conservation projects that

205

they're working on and they're really

open to visitors getting involved.

206

so this particular place where we put the

camera traps out, was a place called Wii

207

Ranch, which is in the South Rupa Nuni.

208

it's a cattle ranch, but it's also home to

the South Rupa Nuni Conservation Society.

209

So when guests go and stay there, there

are a selection of different, tours or

210

activities that you can take part in,

but a lot of them centre around, what's

211

going on for conservation in the area.

212

I had more of an interest in

putting the camera traps out.

213

So because they're sort of doing

the conservation work anyway, if

214

you ask, they'll let you join.

215

I stayed at another, lodge called

Cayman House, which is part of, Yari,

216

an indigenous community working

on conservation projects to do with

217

the Black Cayman, the crocodiles.

218

so one of the activities they offer

is going out at night with the team

219

that catch the Cayman to tag them.

220

you are on a separate boat I think

'cause it's quite risky, but, when they

221

brought the Cayman onto the land, we were

allowed to get off and help them take

222

the measurements and, that was something

that's really nice about Guyana is

223

that they're very open to sharing their

conservation efforts and they're almost

224

building their tourism around that.

225

Daniel Edward: It's nice to

visit somewhere where health

226

and safety hasn't yet arrived.

227

Becca Marsh: I felt pretty safe.

228

But, uh, I dunno, I, I think in

Guyana there is a slight risk of,

229

Daniel Edward: Being eaten by crocodile.

230

Becca Marsh: no, I feel like

there's, wherever you go,

231

there's always a risk, right?

232

You know, you could be in a city and

be pickpocketed, you know, there's

233

always threats wherever you travel.

234

But, I felt very safe in Kayana.

235

I think especially being

with, indigenous people.

236

They know the land, they know the animals.

237

so I felt in very safe hands.

238

Daniel Edward: while you were there, did

you try and spend time with each of the

239

indigenous, tribes or, or communities

from different parts of the country?

240

Is that one of the things

that you were aiming to do?

241

Becca Marsh: I would've loved to,

but guyana's quite difficult to,

242

travel to the more remote areas.

243

and to visit a lot of the indigenous

communities, you need permissions.

244

from the communities, as tourism

is starting to grow, a lot of the

245

communities are choosing to build

lodges for visitors, they want

246

tourists, but it's still, developing.

247

So there were some remote areas

that I wasn't able to get to.

248

and some places that aren't really

set up for tourists, so they're

249

still pretty much living off grid.

250

but yeah, I hope to, I hope that

this is the start of, many years

251

of visiting I got to visit quite a

few different lodges and ranches.

252

there's essentially one road that

goes from Georgetown to the interior,

253

and along that you can kind of peel

off and go to different communities

254

that are based along that road.

255

They're the easiest to access.

256

Daniel Edward: And is

that road a mountain road?

257

Becca Marsh: No, this road was fairly flat

through the jungle, but it's not paved.

258

it's like a mud track.

259

So luckily I was there in the

dry season 'cause I've heard

260

it's chaotic in the wet season.

261

Daniel Edward: when are the two seasons?

262

Becca Marsh: the wet season kind

of starts around April time and

263

it eases off around September.

264

There's sort of two you get like

another sort of mini wet season.

265

between November and January time.

266

So I was there end of January to the

end of February or beginning of March.

267

And that's the peak of, the driest season.

268

but I think if you go in September

time, the rain has eased off as well.

269

Daniel Edward: And what sort of

temperatures were you getting?

270

Becca Marsh: it was mostly around 28

to 30 degrees, but very high humidity.

271

Daniel Edward: it's a bit

sticky, but it's a rainforest,

272

isn't it?

273

Most of the country.

274

Becca Marsh: Yeah.

275

And, in a lot of the eco lodges, because

they're running off solar, there's no,

276

air conditioning, maybe you have a fan

in your room or something, but because

277

you're staying in the traditional

buildings, they're built to be as cool as

278

possible with natural airflow and things.

279

So it, it was okay.

280

Daniel Edward: What sort of

facilities do you tend to find there?

281

Becca Marsh: there's generally one

kitchen with a big sort of, I guess

282

it's a restaurant area, but there's

set mealtime so everyone comes

283

together and eats at those set hours.

284

you can't really be self-sufficient,

let's say, because it's so remote.

285

so you really are relying on the lodges

and ranches providing meals for you.

286

But the places that we stayed

everywhere has its own package.

287

So when you book your accommodation,

it's generally with meals included.

288

Sometimes the activities, sometimes the

activities are additional, but yeah,

289

it kind of is, an all-in-one price,

290

Daniel Edward: where were you

booking that sort of stuff.

291

are these very well advertised

places or are you having to do a

292

Becca Marsh: Yeah, so it was a bit

challenging, obviously, because

293

I was updating the guidebook.

294

I had, a list already

kind of researched for me.

295

because they're all independent,

they have their own, phone numbers,

296

email addresses, websites, so

you just book directly with them.

297

because I was working with the tourism

board, they made a lot of the bookings

298

for me, but obviously when I was

there I was trying to find out what's

299

the most efficient way for visitors.

300

WhatsApp is very big out

there and seems to be the most

301

efficient way to make bookings.

302

And a lot of the eco

lodges use starlink now.

303

So they do have access to internet.

304

I think actually on the BRAT website

as well, there's a summary of Guyana,

305

like a miniature, guide, so you can

look there it did take a, while for

306

me to discover new places, but the

tourism board is doing a great job of

307

trying to register all these locations

and make almost like a directory.

308

There's now, regional tourism

boards that are popping up, which

309

also have directories, but you need

to know what you're looking for.

310

for example, the Rupa Nuni, which

is the Savannah region and the edge

311

of the jungle, they have a tourism

website called visit uni.com.

312

So you can go on there and

there's a directory of, ranches,

313

restaurants, and things that they

would recommend in the region.

314

And I believe they would

help you with bookings too.

315

Daniel Edward: You doing things by

WhatsApp quite a bit out there, which

316

actually I'm, starting to learn is

quite common around the world People

317

love this sort of more informal way

of doing business through WhatsApp.

318

Do you have good signal

as you are going around?

319

did you get a local sim or did you

320

just use an

321

Becca Marsh: Yeah, so I got, a local eim,

which was fairly simple to set up, you

322

know, same as here, you would just go into

the store, they ask you how many gigabytes

323

of data you want, And the coverage

was pretty good across the country.

324

It did get patchy in some parts,

but I was quite surprised at

325

how well connected it was.

326

And obviously in these lodges and

ranches that have starlink, that's

327

often offered to guests either for

an additional charge or included.

328

it was quite easy to stay in touch.

329

some of the more remote areas you

do signal perhaps for a day or two.

330

But I think in, in some ways, maybe

because, until fairly recently,

331

the country as a whole has been

quite disconnected in the sense of

332

having connection through internet.

333

they're still very well

connected in word of mouth.

334

when we were being driven from one lodge

to the next and they had to, communicate

335

with the driver from the next lodge.

336

Pretty much all of those transitions

went very smoothly because you've got

337

the meat at this place at this time.

338

And, because the, climate is so harsh,

people are really aware of being

339

out in the sun you know, they're not

gonna leave you standing for hours.

340

they're, very well connected,

I think, in that sense.

341

Daniel Edward: that people

People actually about

342

Almost of.

343

What sort of food did they give you

344

Becca Marsh: it varied a lot and,

there were a lot of different

345

ingredients across the country and

fusions just because of the different

346

influences of cuisine over the years.

347

the ranches and lodges.

348

There seemed to be a sort

of like standard, meal plan,

349

let's say between the lodges.

350

It was quite similar.

351

but you get a different

mix of local ingredients.

352

So a big, thing to use is casava.

353

So cassava bread, cassava, crisps,

chips, quite a bit of rice beans, lots

354

of hearty, carb heavy meals probably

because of the heat, I think they all

355

want to make sure you've had a good meal.

356

depending on where we were

fish, quite a lot of fish with

357

the rivers, which was nice.

358

Daniel Edward: about fruit?

359

Did you get good

360

tropical fruit there?

361

Becca Marsh: Oh yeah, incredible fruit.

362

I was actually there during mango

season, so a lot of the communities

363

had these huge mango trees and they're

just falling the floor covered in

364

these beautiful golden mangoes.

365

And you would pay a fortune to have one

as ripe and as delicious as that here.

366

but yeah, lots of different fruits.

367

And actually something again is

probably to do with the heat.

368

Every lodge at every meal made per like

table a jug of fresh fruits, I think with

369

a bit of sugar in to give you a bit of

energy from continuously sweating out

370

probably all your, good things you need.

371

lots of watermelons.

372

Bananas, some fruits that I

can't remember the names of.

373

They've ones I've never had before.

374

Guavas, really delicious, incredible

fruits it was a completely new

375

experience for me to have access

to all these, different foods.

376

Herbs, we would be walking in the

jungle and our guides would pick

377

something up something that I would

think is a weed, they'd be like,

378

you know, this is good for this.

379

Or we use the bark from this

tree to help against, malaria.

380

we make a tea out of this.

381

they were just full of so much knowledge

of how to use what was around them.

382

it was just incredible.

383

Daniel Edward: I find that

really inspirational because

384

that's what we've lost.

385

We don't understand our food 'cause we

don't have that direct connection to

386

it and they're seeing it fall from the

387

tree in front of it.

388

It's incredible

389

Becca Marsh: Yeah, it

was just really amazing.

390

And something that I really loved

was a lot of these fruit trees aren't

391

necessarily planted for cultivation.

392

they're just naturally part of

the, the jungle's ecosystem, the

393

seeds get transported by various

animals and then the plants grow.

394

Lots of coconuts everywhere as well,

395

Daniel Edward: Oh, I love young,

fresh coconuts you have the coconut

396

water, then you smash it open,

but it's still soft on the inside.

397

It's like coconut

398

jelly.

399

Becca Marsh: Yes, Delicious

and very refreshing

400

Daniel Edward: Better than water.

401

Actually,

402

the water's good too.

403

I'm dissuading anybody from

drinking water, but, coconut

404

water is more, rehydrating.

405

Becca Marsh: I think so.

406

Daniel Edward: you were out there

to, revise the BRAC guide for Guyana.

407

so that's coming out 2027.

408

Becca Marsh: Yes, it's due to be,

409

I was up there updating

for the fifth edition.

410

Daniel Edward: Fifth edition.

411

Wow.

412

brats really good actually at covering the

more adventurous places that maybe some

413

of the other guidebook companies don't put

so much effort behind, they tend to focus

414

on the more off the beaten path places.

415

So to have five

416

additions.

417

Becca Marsh: I think it, because

the country has changed a lot.

418

the first edition was written in the

early two thousands, so the fourth

419

edition that, so the one that I'm

420

So I think the research

was done over 20 16, 20 17.

421

So if you think we've had the COVID

pandemic since then, Guyana has

422

also gone through quite a bit of

economic change in recent years,

423

after discovering large oil deposits.

424

So there's a lot going on in the

country and a lot that has changed.

425

And as tourism becomes more of a,

recognised source of income for

426

not just local communities, but for

countries, there's a lot that's changing.

427

In Guyana, there's quite a lot

going on at the moment with,

428

developing infrastructure.

429

So building road networks,

trying to connect the country a

430

bit more, which obviously makes

travel easier for tourists.

431

It hopefully makes local life easier.

432

But there are cons to it as well.

433

You know, how will it

disrupt the wildlife?

434

What change will it make

to the natural environment?

435

Also, by making places more easily

accessible, it then also makes it

436

accessible to the people that maybe you

don't want there or that are not gonna

437

do great things for the environment.

438

So, Guyana has large gold deposits,

which can sometimes attract the

439

wrong type of people to come in.

440

And if you make access easier, then

you're facing those challenges as well.

441

But I think overall for Guyana,

I think it's a positive.

442

and I think that if they get a

good balance moving forward, it's

443

a great, opportunity for them to

show people their, their country,

444

their heritage, their biodiversity.

445

It's, it's so unique and just

really, really untouched.

446

Daniel Edward: how did you

find this whole experience?

447

Because I think this is your first

448

guidebook, is that

449

Becca Marsh: Yeah, this

is my first guidebook.

450

the experience has been really incredible.

451

I've really enjoyed it.

452

a lot of my online writing is doing

city guides, creating mini top 10

453

places to visit or, restaurants.

454

I love that kind of data

collection and research.

455

So it was really fun to be there

and to meet all these people

456

and collect and gather all this

information to then reshare.

457

it's been a good test for me, because

I obviously had different thoughts

458

about, I can collect the information

and maybe in my evenings write up my

459

notes and maybe chip away at the book,

but that was totally unrealistic.

460

I was exhausted every day.

461

I felt like I was put on a, six

week press trip, very fast paced,

462

meeting new people, new environment.

463

so it, it's been a good learning

curve for me and something that

464

I've really enjoyed and that I hope

I can do more of in the future.

465

Daniel Edward: you are also a fellow

of the Raw Geographic Society, which

466

I bring this up, because I think

some people have a preconceived idea

467

of, what that person looks like, the

fellow of the Raw Geographic Society.

468

I certainly did and I was totally wrong

There's so much adventure in that.

469

It's a very interesting, society.

470

They do a lot of great stuff.

471

They've got an interesting

magazine as well.

472

but you are a, true adventurer.

473

Becca Marsh: yeah, the Royal

Geographical Society definitely has

474

an image that people probably imagine

of the typical member, fellow or

475

person who's associated with it.

476

But as a society, they're really

trying to be more open and inclusive.

477

For many years they were focused

on, geography and educational links.

478

Obviously lots of conservation work,

but they've been very, academic focused.

479

they're trying to revisit perhaps some

of their origins of explorers and people

480

that want to go out and have an adventure.

481

they offer some fantastic grants for

field work, not just for students,

482

but for individuals like me and

you, if, there's something in Guyana

483

that I would like to research more

in depth, they will support that.

484

And they're doing some great things to

try and, broaden their audience and their

485

members and fellows so they can hopefully

grow and continue to make a positive

486

impact in geography and adventure.

487

Daniel Edward: You were part

of a really cool documentary.

488

Becca Marsh: Yeah.

489

It is still on Amazon, but I'm not

sure which countries it's available in.

490

we work with a distributor who,

deals with that side of things.

491

but yes, I was, a founder of a company

called Global Convoy, which is an

492

adventure travel, I guess, media company.

493

And we've been building a

small community of like-minded

494

adventurers who enjoy overlanding.

495

for us, it started out as a budget way to

travel, just taking our cars and driving.

496

But I think over the years we've

really kind of fallen in love with

497

that style because you get to visit the

smaller places that tourists don't go.

498

And that's where we've had the

most meaningful connections.

499

And there's two elements to it.

500

You've got the travel side, so you get to

experience perhaps more authentic culture.

501

You get to feel like you're actually

having a, real experience, but then

502

also the community side, there's a lot

of skills that you learn that perhaps

503

you wouldn't, be pushed to learn

just in your normal everyday life.

504

You know, if you're broken down

somewhere and there's nothing

505

around, you have to get creative.

506

You have to support each other.

507

and I think something that I really

enjoy about doing that is bringing

508

people together and kind of almost

creating these scenarios where team

509

building is at the forefront, but

you also have a really good time.

510

Learn something new, discover

a new place or culture.

511

and hopefully you go home

and you are a better person.

512

Or maybe you appreciate a shower

because you haven't had one for

513

three days or something, you know.

514

We have a new documentary that's

coming out this year later on.

515

Um, in 20 23, 20 24, we bought an American

school bus and drove down from Alaska to

516

Argentina and we're working with, Bluebird

the bus manufacturer to produce, I guess

517

a sort of historical documentary there

was a, a team from the US who drove on the

518

Pan-American in, I think the 1940s to try

and establish a possible route for a road.

519

this was when talks were

happening to build a rail network.

520

So we kind of followed their

route to see what's changed in a

521

lifetime for better or for worse.

522

So that's coming out later on.

523

Daniel Edward: That is so cool.

524

And what's your role then , when

you're making these documentaries?

525

you are part of the team that

organises them, but then are you

526

involved in the, creative production

527

side of the documentary

528

Becca Marsh: I am.

529

Yes.

530

so I don't have particularly

any skills in video editing.

531

but my partners do.

532

So they kind of build the segments and

then I give creative feedback, let's say.

533

We've got various people working

on different elements and we got

534

picked up by a distributor who

thought it was worth putting out.

535

We've shown it at a few different

adventure festivals over the years.

536

So there used to be one in

London called the Adventure Film

537

Festival, ran by Austin Vince.

538

that's where we premiered it.

539

And then we've shown it at a few

smaller festivals along the way.

540

But this next one we are hoping we can

push a bit more and we've got some other

541

people involved, which is really nice.

542

It's nice to have that progress

of, being able to make something

543

that feels a bit more professional.

544

Daniel Edward: I told

you a real adventure.

545

amazing, Bringing it back to,

Guyana, your latest adventure.

546

what sort of local customs, struck

you That maybe is a surprise, but

547

definitely something that's worth

knowing for somebody who's visiting.

548

Becca Marsh: local customs.

549

It varies across Guyana because there's

different regions with different, groups.

550

So, for example, something that

I was quite surprised by was the

551

lack of ability to pay by card.

552

So everything is cash only.

553

but it was quite hard going into the

interior with large sums of cash.

554

I felt quite vulnerable, but

there was almost no other option.

555

and I think this is the first, well,

one of probably the first countries

556

that I've been to that was so

heavily reliant on cash payments.

557

Because tourism I think

is still quite new.

558

there are things you

need to be mindful of.

559

and I mean I think people should do this

anywhere, ask for permission to take

560

photos of people, you know, especially

when they're bathing, their kids

561

are bathing in the rivers and stuff.

562

Like, it's, it's just polite to ask.

563

And, I think that's something

that should be practised

564

everywhere, but it isn't always.

565

something that took me a while

to understand, you asked earlier

566

about eating and eating together.

567

in some of the lodges, dinners were

served just for tourists, like visitors,

568

and the staff would eat separately.

569

I love being around people and

learning about their culture, so

570

I would rather they ate with me.

571

and then sometimes we had guides

that would eat with us, but they

572

wouldn't talk to us whilst eating.

573

And it was, I felt awkward because I

didn't wanna ask them questions because

574

I know sometimes people don't feel

comfortable talking whilst eating, so I

575

didn't wanna make them feel uncomfortable.

576

But after a few days, when I was speaking

with someone, they explained that in

577

the indigenous communities, I think

particularly within the Kushi tribes

578

meal times are more of like a relatively

new concept, back in the day they would

579

have one big pot for the community.

580

And if you go and you hunt

something, you add it into the pot.

581

So it's like continuously cooking this is

what we were told by someone that then if

582

you were hungry, you would just go to it

and dip your cassava bread in and eat it.

583

So they didn't really sit

down and have mealtimes.

584

And I think that's something that they

are perhaps still getting used to.

585

But that, because I didn't know that

when I, was first there, I was a

586

little bit confused about what the

etiquette was for them joining for

587

meals or if they felt comfortable.

588

Daniel Edward: That's so interesting,

the idea that, and it's true.

589

I've just never thought of it.

590

Mealtimes are a social construction.

591

Becca Marsh: Yeah.

592

I thought it was interesting as well

because, you know, some places you

593

visit, there's sometimes a clear divide

between the staff and the guests.

594

You know, the guests are there to

eat so the staff don't eat with them.

595

But then some of these communities just

felt so close knit and so local that we

596

almost expected people to eat with us.

597

So, that was really interesting.

598

Daniel Edward: Do people tip in

restaurants and hotels or the lodges?

599

Becca Marsh: I tipped, just

because I think I could see where

600

even just a small amount could

make a, big impact to the people.

601

the indigenous communities

don't have a huge amount of

602

opportunity for financial income.

603

They're very much self-sustaining, but,

starlink, who's gonna pay for that?

604

You know, they, they do need

different revenues of income.

605

and I think that tourism is a great

opportunity for them to make a source

606

of income that's not encouraging.

607

for example, there's a lot of mining

going on and some illegal mining.

608

So I hope that by encouraging tourism

and creating more awareness there,

609

they would choose to invest their

time and their skills in tourism than

610

choosing perhaps some of the easier

options like hunting, mining, whatever.

611

I don't think you need to tip,

but certainly where I did tip

612

people really appreciated it.

613

Daniel Edward: in these small close

knit communities that are off the beaten

614

track, money has a different meaning.

615

people don't relate to it in the same

way that, we do in a, city environment.

616

money is a practical thing.

617

It's, it is not necessarily that

you're giving that tip to one person.

618

Becca Marsh: I think that's the thing.

619

a lot of the projects are

completely self-funded.

620

the government does offer grants and they

do really help the communities, but I

621

think it helps them become more empowered

because they have built it themselves.

622

I think when someone's done a really good

job and they've gone above and beyond,

623

I'm so happy to reward them for that.

624

because it really can

change an experience.

625

It can make it from something

that's a nice experience to

626

an exceptional experience.

627

actually something that was, I guess

first time for me in Guyana, because

628

English is the, main language.

629

This is the first time I was in a country

in South America where I could actually

630

communicate with indigenous people.

631

so I was so excited about it.

632

Obviously I'm asking them,

look, what plants this?

633

What does this do?

634

So I was aware as well that I

probably was taking a lot of their

635

time and energy whilst they were

happy to share, it was still nice

636

for me to, reward them for that.

637

And hopefully that, moving forward

with tourism, they can see that when

638

people visit, if they go above and

beyond that, there's more potential

639

for them to be rewarded for that.

640

Daniel Edward: And with that in mind,

it baffles me that more people don't go

641

because you'd think that that would be

the place you'd, if you're coming from

642

the states, Canada, the uk, Australia,

all of these places, if you're, if

643

you are thinking, I'm gonna start in

South America, where should I start?

644

Where do I wanna explore first?

645

Oh, I know.

646

I'll go to the place where I'll

be able to communicate the easiest

647

with people.

648

Becca Marsh: Yeah, it makes sense,

but I think it's just not on

649

everyone's travel radar right now.

650

it's not as developed as some

of its neighbours, which are

651

perhaps more appealing for people.

652

It's easier to get around, if you can book

things online, it was quite difficult.

653

because all the lodges are independent,

maybe you have reservations of not

654

knowing if it's legitimate or not and

you're being scammed by paying online.

655

Whereas there's the standard

websites like Expedia, booking.com.

656

If something is on there, then

you know, there is some type of

657

legitimacy maybe, which perhaps

puts more confidence in people.

658

Daniel Edward: What would you say is

the top thing to see or do in Guyana?

659

Becca Marsh: I would say probably the top

thing that's most accessible, depending

660

on, you know, it doesn't matter how

long you're going there for is going

661

to see Kato Falls, it's really epic.

662

It's a really beautiful waterfall

and there's lots of wildlife up

663

there where you can see the cock

of the rock, the orange bird.

664

They have the golden frog up there,

which is very unique to the high plateaus

665

yeah, it just felt like being in on

a different planet, really beautiful.

666

Daniel Edward: This one might be quite

a challenging one for Guyana, what would

667

you say is a tourist trap to avoid?

668

Becca Marsh: Um hmm.

669

That's actually a really

difficult one Taurus trap.

670

Maybe.

671

it can feel more difficult to

be an independent traveller.

672

it can feel like you can only do stuff

if you book it via a company, which

673

in some cases is needed, like going

to Kato Falls you can't get up there.

674

You really need to fly

or have someone take you.

675

but I think that, it's good to ask

around and maybe not go with the

676

first option, if that makes sense.

677

Particularly with, transport, have

a look around at the different bus

678

operators to get into the interior.

679

a lot of the lodges organised transport

for you, which can sometimes be

680

easier, either flying in and using

their airstrip or private car rides.

681

I'm not sure about the

public buses around town.

682

They're pretty crazy drivers,

but I took one of the mini buses

683

into the interior it was fine.

684

so yeah, maybe shopping

around would be my advice.

685

Daniel Edward: What would you

say would be your favourite

686

time of year to visit Guyana?

687

Becca Marsh: as I've only been from sort

of January to the end of February, I think

688

the beginning of February was a good time.

689

the end of January was

coming off the wet season.

690

So, um, yeah, it, it was fine.

691

And as we got further into February,

it was getting very dry, so the

692

rivers were quite difficult to

traverse for the boat trips.

693

So yeah, probably beginning of February.

694

Daniel Edward: Do you have a book

or a film recommendation for anybody

695

interested in finding out more about

696

Becca Marsh: Ooh.

697

there's actually quite a lot on Guyana

once you start looking into it, but

698

as a sort of good gateway in, on

Disney Plus on National Geographic.

699

It's, um, a cooking show with

Gordon Ramsey, maybe Gordon Ramsey,

700

uncharted, and he visits Guyana

and works with a local chef there

701

that's become quite well known.

702

And he offers tours and, cooking classes.

703

but they go to one of the indigenous

communities called Rewa Large, which

704

is known for its sport fishing.

705

And I think that gives a really good

look into the food culture, and a

706

little bit about indigenous communities.

707

And it, it is sort of easy watching.

708

Daniel Edward: What would you say from

your time there was the best food or

709

drink to try?

710

Becca Marsh: Oh, the best food I

found on the ESA Kibo coast, so

711

a little bit north of Georgetown,

was a thing called coconut choker.

712

it's essentially the inside flesh of

a coconut that's put over a barbecue.

713

So it's smoked, then it's scraped out.

714

And, using a a pestle mortar, they put,

raw garlic and raw chilies and grind it

715

all in and then roll it into a ball, and

it served alongside a curry, it was just

716

such a really unique explosion of flavours

of smoky coconut and chilli and garlic.

717

I've not had anything like it before.

718

Daniel Edward: And my final question, if

you're heading out to Guyana and you want

719

to bring home an authentic souvenir to

remind you of your time there, what sort

720

of thing could you keep an eye out for?

721

Becca Marsh: so without going too in depth

about the history of it, and maybe this is

722

just something that a lot of people know,

I didn't know, rubber comes from trees.

723

the Bala trees, there were tonnes

in the jungle that we used to

724

get supplies for, world War ii.

725

but the indigenous make crafts with

them so you can get small, like animal

726

figures and they still used as a, craft

product, which I, I think is very unique.

727

I think they mould it, they

bleed it from the trees.

728

and then I'm not sure about the

whole process, but I guess as

729

it dries it becomes more solid.

730

So you could buy little figures of Capy

boroughs or the different wildlife,

731

I just thought it was really cool.

732

You're not buying a plastic souvenir.

733

You're actually buying something

that has come from the nature there.

734

Daniel Edward: Becca Marsh, travel writer.

735

Thank you so much for unlocking

a very undiscovered country

736

in a big continent Guyana.

737

Becca Marsh: Thank you.

738

Daniel Edward: Well, thank you once again

to Becca Marsh, the travel writer who

739

is updating the Brat Guide to Guyana,

and also working on that very exciting

740

documentary that I'm looking forward

to seeing coming out, and I'll share

741

it around on my channels once it does.

742

If this is your first time listening to

Destination Unlocked and before you leave,

743

do make sure that you are now following

wherever it's you're currently listening,

744

and that way you'll be able to easily

find the podcast again the next time you

745

want to go armchair travelling somewhere.

746

Fantastic.

747

Until then, thank you for listening.

748

I'll see you next time.

749

Bye-bye.