This week, we're talking about food traditions--not cultural, necessarily, although they might be a part of our discussion. Instead, those from your childhood. Ours, too, of course. Why are these food traditions so important to us? Why do they leave such an imprint on us? Is it just nostalgia? Or more?
Join us, veteran cookbook authors Bruce Weinstein & Mark Scarbrough. We've written over three dozen cookbooks including one of our favorites THE KITCHEN SHORTCUT BIBLE.
After we talk about childhood food traditions, we've got a a one-minute cooking tip for making perfect ramen eggs. Bruce interviews celebrity chef Kwoklyn Wan on his book ONE WOK ONE POT. And we tell you what's making us happy in food this week.
Here are the segments for this episode of COOKING WITH BRUCE & MARK:
[01:07] Food traditions from childhood. Why do these leave such a mark on us?
[13:31] Our one-minute cooking tip: how to make perfect ramen eggs.
[15:08] An interview with celebrity chef Kwoklyn Wan, author of ONE POT ONE WOK, all about Chinese comfort food.
[31:36] What’s making us happy in food this week? Salsa macha and perfect brown rice!
Hey, I'm Bruce Weinstein and this is the Podcast
bruce:Cooking with Bruce and Mark.
mark:And I'm Mark Scarbrough, and together with Bruce, as you
mark:well know, we have written 36 cookbooks under our own Steam.
mark:We're turning in another right as we speak.
mark:Due out this November, our latest cookbook is the.
mark:Instant air fryer Bible.
mark:And by the way, if you wanna know more about air frying, we are teaching a class
mark:with Milk Street at the end of May on air frying and kind of a finessing class,
mark:not a basic intro to air frying, but much more of an up finessing class of in.
mark:Of air frying,
bruce:and you can find information about that at our website, Bruce and
bruce:mark.com, and lots of other things,
mark:right
mark:and lots of other things.
mark:But we're not talking about air frying.
mark:In this episode of the podcast, we wanna talk about food traditions,
mark:the importance of food traditions.
mark:We have our one minute cooking tip.
mark:Bruce has an interview with Qualin Juan, the author of One Walk.
mark:Pot and we're gonna talk about what's making us happy in food this week.
mark:So let's get started.
bruce:Food traditions are really important to most people.
bruce:I mean, whether it's a, a thing that you mark a certain event or a certain
bruce:situation, or you do it all the time, I know I look forward to them and they're
bruce:really important to us as a culture.
mark:I do a lot of things besides writing cookbooks with Bruce.
mark:Um, I teach literary seminars across all kinds of places.
mark:Um, they're located in New England, but they've all gone virtual, so
mark:now they're kind of weirdly global.
mark:And I, I'm I this last fall taught.
mark:Eight weeks on the Japanese English novelist, Karo.
mark:And we were at the same time writing a cookbook and I was leading a, this book
mark:discussion groups on Henry James and I was leading book discussion groups on
mark:other things, all this kind of crazy virtual literary teaching that I do.
mark:And at the end of all of these things, this is the whole point of this story,
mark:is I often plant a dinner party because when I finish everything, I just want
mark:to take a day in which I get to spend in the kitchen creating a dinner party.
mark:And you probably, if you listen to this podcast, you've
mark:probably already heard this.
mark:I made this really wild proto Iranian dinner.
mark:So anyway, the point was that I, and I was very creative.
mark:I pulled recipes apart and re put them together in very deconstructed ways.
mark:It was all a lot of fun for me, and that is one of my food traditions.
mark:Yeah.
mark:Is that I spend.
mark:You know, a couple days making some grandiose meal for friends after I
mark:finish a huge set of work projects.
bruce:I love that your traditions are mostly cooking for friends, cuz there's
bruce:another one that happens around here.
bruce:I sing with a Baroque group early, so after the concerts, mark always
bruce:cooks dinner for all of our friends who come to the concerts and usually
bruce:it's like four pots of chili.
bruce:It is.
bruce:For lasagna.
bruce:It is, and it's really a nice tradition.
bruce:I so look forward to that.
mark:Uh, instant pot chili and it, it's, I can make a vegetarian version,
mark:a chicken version, a, you know, a beef version, a traditional pork version.
mark:I mean, I can make various kinds of chilies and so I, I, I, I, I can just
mark:get all that out on the counter with all the toppings, and it's very easy for
mark:me to put that together for the dinner.
mark:That is a food tradition for us too.
mark:But there are also food traditions, as you well know, that are
mark:part of your cultural heritage.
mark:Mm-hmm.
mark:And your past.
mark:Idiosyncratic to you, and Bruce has one that I just cannot understand.
bruce:It's called Noodle Kugel.
bruce:Gross.
bruce:And you've even heard me talk about this in the podcast, gross.
bruce:My grandmother would serve it as a side dish.
bruce:I know a lot of people have it as dessert, but my grandmother
bruce:served it as a side dish.
bruce:She didn't put.
bruce:Cheese and a no cottage cheese.
bruce:Oh, it was basically noodles.
bruce:What's getting worse?
bruce:Noodles with eggs and oil and sugar and camoo cocktail.
bruce:Oh, and she'd bake it and serve it like alongside a brisket
bruce:with sweet and sour meatballs.
mark:Oh, sweet and sour.
mark:With no sour . Just sweet meatballs.
mark:There's no sour in that.
bruce:When we were at.
bruce:Mark's family in Missouri for Christmas.
bruce:We went to a kosher deli one day Mark and I treated everyone over
bruce:Christmas to a big kosher deli spread.
bruce:And I got eight giant hunks of Noodle Cougle to put out
bruce:with the brisket and salons.
bruce:And guess how many Gentiles ate it?
bruce:None . I ate them all and I gained 15 pounds on that trip
bruce:to Christmas . So there you go.
bruce:I love that.
bruce:We had Christmas with Noodle Kugel.
bruce:Mm-hmm.
bruce:, mark: which is very funny to me.
bruce:also that basically everybody was like, what is this?
bruce:They didn't, they wouldn't eat the ruggelach either.
bruce:I don't know what's wrong with these people.
mark:Well, no, I did eat ruggelach.
mark:But no Noodle, kugel is just one of those things that, you know, you know how
mark:this is, you grew up with something and it's really, really centered to you and
mark:your traditions, and it's part of a fine childhood memory, and it becomes something
mark:that's really, uh, crucial to you.
mark:I, I, I'll give you an example for me.
mark:I have absolutely no problem eating innards.
mark:Mm-hmm.
mark:, and that's because I grew up with grandparents on a farm and
mark:I was their only grandchild.
mark:These were German immigrant grandparents, and I was their only
mark:grandchild, much less being a grandson.
mark:So of course, for the grandchild, these are the old days for the grandchild.
mark:If you kill a chicken and you cook a chicken, you don't feed
mark:the grandchild the breast.
mark:Legs or the thighs?
mark:No, no, no.
mark:That's what you eat.
mark:You feed your prized grandchild.
mark:No, the liver, the heart.
mark:The gizzards.
mark:The enns.
mark:And I actually, and this is what's so funny, I actually thought I was special.
mark:You are?
mark:Because I ate innards.
bruce:Well, it is the most nutritious part.
bruce:Look, that's the part of the chicken that the raccoon's
bruce:gonna go after if it kills it.
mark:And I.
mark:Oh, here we go.
mark:Aggravating brains.
mark:I thought that this was all normal and I thought people who
mark:ate them were sp were special.
mark:And I didn't know that people grossed out at these things.
mark:It never occurred to me.
mark:I, for my third grade birthday party, third grade, I asked my
mark:mother to make a tongue and she's like, I am not making a tongue.
mark:for third graders,
bruce:you want a tongue followed by orange cake.
mark:I did.
mark:I . Wanted orange layer.
mark:But I wanted to start with tongue sandwiches and my mother's like,
mark:I am not making tongue for your third grade friends who come over,
mark:this is just not gonna happen.
bruce:Well, there are food traditions all over the world that some people
bruce:find delicious and other people are gonna find actually gross.
bruce:And it's so important, these food traditions that UNESCO from
bruce:the UN labels, these astronomic traditions as something to be celebr.
bruce:And safeguarded.
bruce:And in fact, we talked a few weeks ago in the podcast about UNESCO's
bruce:adding, um, baguettes to their list and how important baguettes are.
bruce:But we found a few other things that are on there that I think sound
bruce:really delicious, but you might not
mark:Well.
mark:Uh, yeah.
mark:Maybe one that UNESCO recognizes is a Jordanian dish that is
mark:apparently absolutely central.
mark:Mm-hmm.
mark:to Jordanian food culture.
mark:mansaf and mansaf is made with sheep or goat.
mark:And don't think lamb, think sheep
bruce:or, and large.
bruce:Bony bony pieces and we're talking about not Yeah, mark says nuts.
bruce:Don't think that.
bruce:Sweet little baby lamb.
bruce:Mutton.
bruce:Yeah.
bruce:An old stinky goat and they're boiled with lots of spices in a yogurt sauce
bruce:and it's served with rice, sometimes bulgar, um, over a layer of thin bread.
bruce:It just sounds to me so delicious.
bruce:I would love to eat this.
mark:We were.
mark:When, when Bruce and I used to teach cooking classes on Holland America
mark:cruise ships, we always had this thing that we would go to various ports
mark:and uh, Bruce would hire a local guy.
mark:We never did any of the ships tours.
mark:Bruce would find through internet connections, through Facebook, et cetera.
mark:Local guides.
mark:And so we went to the island of Dominica in the Caribbean, which
mark:actually I will admit to you that I didn't even know existed.
mark:So there you go.
mark:That's how embarrassing I am.
bruce:So not the Dominican Republic?
bruce:No, this is the island of Dominica.
bruce:Dominica.
bruce:I think it's actually since been destroyed by a hurricane, but it was,
mark:it's just about was wiped out by a hurricane.
mark:But anyway, we went to Dominica and Bruce, he local guide and he took us all arena
mark:and he took us to a cinnamon plantation.
mark:It.
mark:It's much fun.
mark:And, uh, along the way we were talking about food.
mark:He found out we were good book writers, yada yada.
mark:We were talking about food and he said that their Easter tradition
mark:in traditional families was to get a ram, a goat ram and not.
mark:Not a young
bruce:baby's sweet tender goat.
mark:No.
mark:Get a ram stinky and basically they kill it in the rivers.
mark:He said so much that the river actually ran red with blood.
mark:And then, uh, the, in the, that comes out of the town and then they cook it and.
mark:They look for the stinkiest, smelliest, male
mark:. bruce: Um, and that's what
mark:Trust me.
mark:Exactly.
mark:Because he said that it, you know, it was vitality, virility, all those things.
mark:You know what they mean?
mark:That right.
mark:That, that, that indicated that for Easter you were kind of entering your new life,
mark:your new phase of life, and they were looking for this really stinky coat and.
mark:I, we had just written a goat cookbook, and of course we used all young
mark:tender baby goat, which is delicious.
mark:But I kept thinking to myself, wow, I wonder if I could stand this.
mark:But of course, to this guy in Dominica, this was like a.
mark:A, a heavily felt family tradition, a cultural tradition to eat this goat and
mark:I'm may be turning out my nose at it.
mark:I don't know.
mark:I try it.
mark:My hunch is it was super, super hot.
mark:My ch hunch is that it was spicy beyond belief, but.
mark:I don't know.
mark:I try it, but it, it is localized to a food tradition.
bruce:It is.
bruce:There's another food tradition from Haiti that it sounds to me so delicious.
bruce:And if you go, go on YouTube, there are hundreds of people making this Joumou
bruce:soup, A traditional Haitian pumpkin soup.
bruce:It's made with vegetables and plantains, with meat, with pasta, with spice spices.
mark:Whoa, whoa, whoa.
mark:Wait, wait, wait.
mark:Pumpkin plantains and pasta.
mark:This?
mark:Mm-hmm.
mark:this.
mark:Uh, you gonna go plow the back 40 after you ma after you
mark:eat this thing, holy crow.
bruce:I mean, it's a celebratory dish, right?
bruce:And it is deeply rooted in Haitian identity.
bruce:I mean, originally this was reserved for slave owners, right?
bruce:Um, and then when Haiti got its independence from France, Haitians
bruce:took ownership of what was this sort of privileged soup, and it
bruce:became this national identity.
mark:It.
mark:sounds like heavy.
mark:You need to be in the dead of winter.
mark:I don't think they have the dead.
mark:I
bruce:was wanted to say when is the dead of winter in Haiti.
mark:I am.
mark:I don't think they have the dead of winter the way we do in New England.
mark:Cuz it sounds like something that I would eat in the dead of winter to, you know,
mark:put on my winter fat so that I could, uh, survive the cold in New England.
mark:It, I would like to try it.
mark:I bet it's hot.
bruce:Oh, I hope it's hot.
bruce:I hope that Mansaf is also hot.
bruce:I hope they put a lot of chilies in there with that strong.
bruce:You
mark:know, we were, well, this is completely off the subject, but we
mark:were, we were watching the latest season of fauda, the Israeli show,
mark:which means chaos and, uh, fauda and it's, it's really horrifically graphic
mark:and lots of violence and Palestinian Israeli conflict and the whole bit.
mark:And there's a mo, there's a moment where we are, where one of the
mark:Israelis is pretending to be an Arab and helping this woman.
mark:Well, I don't know.
mark:He's helping her.
mark:He may be leading her down a dangerous path, . But anyway, he's pretending
mark:to be Arabic and um, they're on a trip into Lebanon and she doesn't eat.
mark:Spicy food.
mark:Clearly this is this long way around say she, they stop it in a local restaurant.
mark:She tastes the food, she coughs.
mark:He says, oh, you can't eat spicy.
mark:He says to her in Arabic, you're a disgrace to your ancestors . And I
mark:have to tell you that that really took me aback because I thought, is that a
mark:thing like, like in uh, Jordanian or Palestinian cooking is being really.
mark:Searingly hot food as things,
bruce:well think about Aleppo peppers, right?
mark:I guess.
mark:Guess so.
mark:Right?
mark:Because I don't think of it because I think of, you know, the gentle mezze
mark:platters that I get at some Middle Eastern restaurant, which are, well,
bruce:that's also for an American audience.
mark:Exactly.
mark:I think it must be for an American audience.
bruce:Yeah, I think, I think Chili's look, it's desert
bruce:culture, and I think Chili's are.
bruce:Always, always present in hot desert culture and probably,
mark:so we're speaking a little bit out of our depth era and
mark:we probably should just stop.
mark:Okay.
mark:And not get too far out of our own depth.
mark:So if you have any food traditions that you would like to share with
mark:us, we would love to see that.
mark:Mm-hmm.
mark:, go to our Facebook group cooking with Bruce and Mark.
mark:You can share your.
mark:Food traditions there.
mark:You can weigh in on Noodle Kugel or Fried Chicken Gizzards or anything like that.
mark:And did you know that we have a newsletter?
mark:We do indeed have a newsletter.
mark:It comes out once every week, sometimes once every other week.
mark:You can sign up for that newsletter by going to our website, Bruce and mark.com.
mark:There's a sign up form for the newsletter there.
mark:And let me say in advance, we guarantee a hundred percent no questions to ask.
mark:Your email will never be sold or used.
mark:Any other purposes.
mark:In fact, I use a program that once I put your email into the system for our
mark:newsletter, I can't even see it anymore.
mark:Yeah.
mark:So I, it's hidden from me.
bruce:And in that newsletter you will get usually a free recipe,
bruce:sometimes even a knitting patterns.
bruce:If you don't know, I am a big knitter and you can see all my patterns
bruce:at my website@bruceweinstein.net.
bruce:But yes, please go to Bruce and mark.com and sign up for our newsletter.
mark:Okay, up next, our one minute cooking dip.
mark:It's about how to make the perfect ramen egg, which was a
mark:piece of our newsletter recently.
bruce:The way you make a perfect ramen egg is to boil it for six minutes, and
bruce:that is right from the refrigerator and six minutes when it hits the water.
bruce:But the most water is already boiling.
bruce:The water's already boiling.
bruce:But the most important thing, the egg should not touch the bottom of the pot.
bruce:That's the pot.
bruce:So you gotta put our steamer rack or something on the
bruce:bottom of the pot to lift.
bruce:You know those, the eggs off the bottom,
mark:those vegetable seamers that look like lotus, that open up,
mark:um, we actually use the silicone.
mark:Rack that goes in an instant pot and put it in a sauce pan.
mark:You can buy fancy egg, uh, cookers that lower the eggs into the pot.
mark:But the most important thing is the egg must not touch the
bruce:bottom of the sauce pan.
bruce:But we're not steaming the egg.
bruce:It is being boiled.
bruce:So even if you put it in a steamer basket, that steamer basket is submerged.
bruce:I'm pushing in the pot of boiling water, eggs in their shell.
mark:And then, then you pull, take it out.
mark:Well, I mean, come on in.
mark:Six minutes.
mark:Six minutes.
mark:You take it out, put it in.
mark:Bath of ice water.
mark:A bowl full of ice.
mark:Water, yeah.
bruce:Cold water.
bruce:Just for about two minutes to stop the cooking.
bruce:Peel it.
bruce:And when you break open that, just set white.
bruce:You are gonna have this gelatinous, slightly runny yolk.
bruce:That is delicious.
bruce:Perfect egg for ramen.
bruce:For even soups.
bruce:For soups.
bruce:I even like it just on toast with some avocado or some smoked salmon.
bruce:So that's he make the perfect egg
mark:that is
mark:up next.
mark:Bruce's interview with Kwoklyn Wan, the author of One Wok, one Pot.
mark:They're gonna be talking apparently all about Asian Comfort Foods.
bruce:Today I'm excited to speak with Kwoklyn Wan.
bruce:He grew up in the kitchen of his family's Chinese Cantonese restaurant
bruce:in Leicester, which is in the uk.
bruce:For those of you in the US and aren't familiar with that
bruce:part of the world and of.
bruce:He grew up to be a chef, and now between magazines and newspapers, radio shows
bruce:and TV appearances, there's probably no one in the UK who doesn't know who he is.
bruce:And his cookbooks, including the Runaway Smash, hit the complete
bruce:Chinese takeaway book and his upcoming one Walk one pod Klan.
bruce:One is gaining an international reputation for his Chinese cuisine
bruce:and for our listeners in the rest of the world, you need to check
bruce:out his work and his website.
bruce:Welcome Kwoklyn.
kwoklyn:Thank you so much.
kwoklyn:What a great intro.
kwoklyn:so
bruce:well, you're so much fun to watch cooking.
bruce:You make cooking enjoyable.
bruce:You make it seem like it's a lot of fun, even when we know
bruce:sometimes it's a lot of work.
bruce:Um, but mostly you make food that . Looks so delicious.
kwoklyn:Yeah, except I was, I think it's so important that we cook the
kwoklyn:food that we really want to eat.
kwoklyn:Um, I'm a big carbohydrate.
kwoklyn:I love my rice, I love my noodles.
kwoklyn:Um, I love sources.
kwoklyn:Um, obviously I'm a big meat eater, so I like to have meat there, you
kwoklyn:know, meat and two veg, and then a rice or you know, you noodle dish.
kwoklyn:So, and I think that comes across, hopefully in the books that saying, well,
kwoklyn:This is food that you can cook, you know, very simply just in one pot or one walk.
kwoklyn:Yeah.
kwoklyn:But it's also gonna taste fantastic.
kwoklyn:There's gonna be something that you can really get your teeth into and
kwoklyn:you know you're gonna have that flavor sensation, you're gonna have all those
kwoklyn:different textures and you know you're gonna feel great at the end of it.
kwoklyn:So
bruce:well, and your new book, one Walk one Pot is a little different from your
bruce:previous books in that you've chosen to focus on dishes here that require
bruce:only one pot to make them be that a walk or a sauce pan or a rice cooker.
bruce:But you've also expanded your range of recipes.
bruce:You're including other Asian cuisines.
bruce:You're including Japanese, Malaysian, Korean, Thai specialties.
bruce:What led you in this direction.
kwoklyn:Well, you know, the, the different types of food is
kwoklyn:something that we've always cooked within the restaurant and at home.
kwoklyn:Now, obviously when I was like, you know, when I first wrote my cookbook, my first
kwoklyn:couple of cookbooks, they very much wanted me to concentrate on the Chinese food
kwoklyn:that we were serving in the restaurants.
kwoklyn:And, um, really picking up on the heritage of who I am.
kwoklyn:Cause obviously I'm a British born Chinese.
kwoklyn:Uh, my, my dad's from Hong Kong.
kwoklyn:My mom's from a place called Southampton here in England, . And um, but you
kwoklyn:know, growing up my dad associated with a large East Asian community.
kwoklyn:So we had, um, Malaysia, even though there weren't uncles, we had Malaysian uncles.
kwoklyn:And he would do this fantastic Malaysian style curry for us.
kwoklyn:And then we had that, this little guy who was from Vietnam, Vietnam.
kwoklyn:And he would do these Vietnamese dishes for us.
kwoklyn:So this is food that I remember eating growing up as a child.
kwoklyn:And this book allowed me now, you know, to sort of start sharing some
kwoklyn:of those recipes with the people that were buying the books and, you know,
kwoklyn:so of, you know, east Asian food.
kwoklyn:As we know, the Chinese have been around for a long time, and as they traded
kwoklyn:throughout the East Asia through the old Silk Road, different things, you
kwoklyn:know, so the food is very similar.
kwoklyn:So obviously there are differences with Malaysia, we're, you know, we're
kwoklyn:using different, um, aromatics and, you know, especially when we're going
kwoklyn:to Thailand and we've got lemongrass and other bits and bars, but these
kwoklyn:things aren't, you know, aren't.
kwoklyn:Unknown to the Chinese people.
kwoklyn:Maybe sort of like obviously not so easy to get hold of maybe in Hong Kong and
kwoklyn:China, but then sort so when we started to, but as you are traveling and this
kwoklyn:book allows us to travel around East Asia and to try the food, you know, the
kwoklyn:similar's, east Asian, the right, you know, The main ingredients are gonna
kwoklyn:be the same, whether that's a protein or a carbohydrate or rice or noodles.
kwoklyn:And then the flavors, yes, they do change over just slightly, but you
kwoklyn:know, instinctively when you're eating it, you are eating Asian
kwoklyn:food or eating chinesey related
bruce:food.
bruce:I am in the camp that believes almost anything that you take away from a
bruce:Chinese restaurant is comfort food.
bruce:I mean, and the recipes in your new book Push All of My Comfort Food buttons.
bruce:And you talk in the.
bruce:In the beginning about wanting to create a simpler way of cooking, and
bruce:it certainly is that, uh, the recipes are fairly easy and in one pot.
bruce:But was comfort food a happy side effect or was that something
bruce:you thought about as well?
kwoklyn:I think it just comes down to this love of food that I have now for
kwoklyn:me, growing up in a British, you know, in a Chinese restaurant, being in Britain,
kwoklyn:Our safe place was always with food.
kwoklyn:So when we had friends come over, we would cook.
kwoklyn:When we saw family, we would cook.
kwoklyn:When there was a birthday party, a christening party, there was food.
kwoklyn:If we'd come home after school, and it hadn't been a particularly good
kwoklyn:day, my mom was cooking for us.
kwoklyn:You know, when we saw, when we sat.
kwoklyn:down as a family, we ate food together.
kwoklyn:So food always, you know, for me it, it was all about comfort food, and I think
kwoklyn:that comes across, obviously in this book in a sense that I'm only showing you
kwoklyn:food that I really love to cook and eat.
kwoklyn:Now, why spend this amount of time in a kitchen for cooking something
kwoklyn:that you don't really want?
kwoklyn:If you're having a fantastic day, you know, great.
kwoklyn:Have a nice meal if you're having a rubbish.
kwoklyn:Well, you can eat the same kind of food and it wouldn't lift your mood.
kwoklyn:So yeah, I think it wasn't done on purpose, but I think it naturally
kwoklyn:just happened because I love food and I think you can see that
kwoklyn:when you're reading the recipes.
bruce:So, so your love of food comes through in every recipe.
bruce:I wanna talk about some recipes you offer up.
bruce:a number of fried rice recipes in your book, and it is something we all love
bruce:when we go out and when we order in, but fried rice is not something that's
bruce:terribly easy to get right at home.
bruce:Do you have any tips or tricks for home cooks when they dive
bruce:into your fried rice recipes?
kwoklyn:Hundred percent yes is the answer.
kwoklyn:Um, you've gotta make sure that you've got a good non-stick pan.
kwoklyn:Don't get me wrong, there are a lot of people out there that
kwoklyn:want to cook authentic Chinese food using authentic walk.
kwoklyn:Mm-hmm.
kwoklyn:. Now, the thing is with a carbon steel walk is number one, it has to be well seasoned.
kwoklyn:So if you've only used it a couple of times, the chances
kwoklyn:are that rice is going to stick.
kwoklyn:And the more you use that walk, the more of a it'll, it will, you know, it'll get,
kwoklyn:so it makes it non-stick if like, . You just want to cook this fried rice at
kwoklyn:home and you want less fast so there's no mucking about you just want a nice meal.
kwoklyn:Make sure you've got a good non-stick walk.
kwoklyn:It could be a good non-stick frying pan.
kwoklyn:Now they say with non-stick, you don't need the heat.
kwoklyn:Now I always make sure that my walk is always really hot.
kwoklyn:Mm-hmm.
kwoklyn:, once the walk is hot, you add your oil, then you, you can add your eggs and,
kwoklyn:you know, get, get those mixed through.
kwoklyn:Then add the rice or the meats and vegetables.
kwoklyn:The trick is, is not to overcrowd that pan, because soon as that heat
kwoklyn:comes down in that pan, that's when you start stewing the rice again, and
kwoklyn:even with a good non-it walk, okay?
kwoklyn:It might not stick, but it won't have that flavor.
kwoklyn:The trick is that we're trying to toast the rice or even slightly burn the rice.
kwoklyn:Now this technique is called wa hay or the breath of the walk, and that's what gives
kwoklyn:that rice, that distinct fried flavor.
kwoklyn:So if you can do that and don't crowd the pan.
kwoklyn:So if you are cooking for three or four people, even maybe a family of
kwoklyn:six, just do your rice in stages.
kwoklyn:Maybe cook it and cook enough or two cook, put that to one side, then do
kwoklyn:another portion, and at the very end bring it all together and you'll still
kwoklyn:have that lovely fried rice taste.
bruce:I think that's great advice and something that scares some people the
bruce:idea of cooking in batches, but it does give you the absolute best results.
bruce:I agree with you.
bruce:You cannot crowd that walk.
bruce:There's another recipe that really caught my eye, and when I think of Chinese lemon
bruce:chicken, I think of fried crunchy chicken that's covered in a tangy sauce, but in
bruce:your book, you offer up a one pot version of lemon chicken that sounds just as
bruce:delicious, but seems so incredibly easy.
bruce:Tell me about the dish.
kwoklyn:So yes, I think we, when I think of Lemon chicken, especially growing up
kwoklyn:in a Cantonese restaurant, you think of the chicken in the cornflower batter.
kwoklyn:It's really crispy.
kwoklyn:You've got this lemon sauce drizzled over the top of it.
kwoklyn:But then when we look back at how this dish may have been created, it
kwoklyn:would've been cooked in a clay pot.
kwoklyn:It would've been cooked just, you know, on a open fire.
kwoklyn:Cause you.
kwoklyn:So I, I wanted to create the word said, said I wanted to create this dish.
kwoklyn:I did some research and there were lemon chicken dishes out there
kwoklyn:where it's all cooked together.
kwoklyn:You know, you are getting the tanginess, you're getting the honey,
kwoklyn:so you're getting the sweetness.
kwoklyn:You are getting all of these flavors all locked into the chicken as it's cooking.
kwoklyn:So the only thing I guess we're missing is a little bit of texture.
kwoklyn:Cause obviously we're not getting that cause we're not frying the chicken.
kwoklyn:Mm-hmm.
kwoklyn:. But as far as flavors go, we've got sweet, we've got sour, we've got tangy, we've
kwoklyn:got all of these flavors happening and.
kwoklyn:If you really wanted to cheat and you want a little bit of crunch, you
kwoklyn:could maybe add some fried one ton skins or something at the very end,
kwoklyn:and you've got all the, you've got that crunchy, crunchy texture again.
kwoklyn:So just have a portion of those next to it as you're eating the dish, and
kwoklyn:you're gonna have that very similar mouth sensation when you're eating
kwoklyn:like a regular Cantonese lemon chicken.
bruce:Your version of this is so easy, as you say in the.
bruce:almost seems to cook itself.
bruce:Who doesn't want a dish that does that?
kwoklyn:Yeah, and it's all about, you know, creating these dishes that we
kwoklyn:can go home, we can throw all these things into the pan in different stages.
kwoklyn:So some of the recipes you have to fry the chicken off first and then, you
kwoklyn:know, and then you braze it afterwards.
kwoklyn:You create a sauce.
kwoklyn:But at, at that stage, that's when you can leave it to blip away on
kwoklyn:the stove, go and grab a shower.
kwoklyn:If you just just, and you can come back and you can have this fantastic
kwoklyn:meal without all of that washing up.
kwoklyn:You've literally just got one pop to wash
bruce:here in the us.
bruce:Brisket is a cut of meat.
bruce:That so many Americans think is best when smoked.
bruce:And in your book you offer up a very interesting and surprising brisket.
bruce:Rendang.
bruce:Is brisket a common cut in Southeast Asian cuisine?
bruce:And what inspired you to take it and pair it with these over the top curry flavors?
kwoklyn:So, um, obviously the Asian people are very good at
kwoklyn:using nose to tail cooking, right?
kwoklyn:So they use every single part of the animal.
kwoklyn:So, you know, don't me wrong, if it's a nice fill, nice piece of fill at
kwoklyn:steak, that's gonna, you know, a quick flash on the barbecue in the pan and
kwoklyn:it's done in a matter of mere minutes.
kwoklyn:When you've got something that needs that time, it needs the love to cook.
kwoklyn:Brisket is one of those, you know, it's a bit more fibro.
kwoklyn:You know, when you smoke it, you smoke it for a long time.
kwoklyn:Therefore, when you, when you, you know, when you're gonna eat
kwoklyn:it, it literally falls apart.
kwoklyn:This rendang recipe is exactly the same, so obviously, okay,
kwoklyn:we're adding ourian flavors.
kwoklyn:You've got this lovely sauce that comes with it, and it's been cooked
kwoklyn:so slowly that when you do eat it, it falls apart in the mouth.
kwoklyn:But you've got that lemongrass, you've got all those East Asian sort of like, you
kwoklyn:know, these flavors coming through, and it just, it makes, I think a, a, a wonderful.
kwoklyn:Wonderful Rendang Curry.
bruce:So I wanna talk about rice again for a second because every rice
bruce:recipe in your book, whether it's your Cantonese rice cooker chicken, or your
bruce:black bean and pork rib rice, which sounds to die for, you always call for
bruce:rinsing and soaking rice, and this step.
bruce:Makes a lot of cooks in the US raise an eyebrow.
bruce:Why is rinsing or soaking the rices important for success in these recipes?
kwoklyn:So in these particular recipes, what we want to try and do
kwoklyn:is wash away some of that starch.
kwoklyn:So rice is naturally starchy, so when you cook it, it becomes really sticky.
kwoklyn:Now that stickiness is quite nice.
kwoklyn:It means eating it with a para.
kwoklyn:Paras is really easy cause you can pick it up in a big clump, but we don't
kwoklyn:want it to a point of where it just clumps together and it's just like a.
kwoklyn:So therefore, if we wash the rice at least two or three times in Luke warm
kwoklyn:water and then tip away this water, we're gonna get rid of some of that starch.
kwoklyn:Now also as well, because we're cooking the rice with the stock,
kwoklyn:with the meat on top, we soak the rice first to make sure that we don't
kwoklyn:end up with bony pieces of rice.
kwoklyn:Cause no one likes to, you know, put a mouth, you know, some rice into the mouth,
kwoklyn:and then it's a little bit gritty inside.
kwoklyn:That's because it's not soaked, it's not been cooked long
kwoklyn:enough, or it's not had enough.
kwoklyn:So we can obviously trick this by, by obviously soaking the rice first,
kwoklyn:and then when we cook the meat on top, literally within 25, 30 minutes
kwoklyn:we've got this fantastic dish.
kwoklyn:And you mentioned about the Cantonese one, especially if you cook it
kwoklyn:in the clay pot, you can burn the bottom of the rice a little bit.
kwoklyn:Cause now you've got those textures we were talking about.
kwoklyn:We're missing in the lemon chicken.
kwoklyn:So we've got the soft rice and we've got the juicy chicken.
kwoklyn:But now we've got the burnt rice on the bottom, which is like a rice crisp, you
kwoklyn:know, or a chip as you call it in the.
kwoklyn:Yeah, and it's nice and crunchy that you're eating, that you are
kwoklyn:eating that with the dish and it just, again, it's just all those
kwoklyn:flavors, all of those textures, all, all in one pop to be able to get.
bruce:Different textures in one pot is incredible.
bruce:So, uh, bravo for being, creating that for us.
kwoklyn:No, I'd like, I'd like to say that it was, these are, all of,
kwoklyn:these are all original recipes, but this is all about heritage cooking.
kwoklyn:So if you think about, I've gotta think about where my generations have come from.
kwoklyn:You know, Chinese civilization is what, roughly four, 5,000 years old.
kwoklyn:So these techniques have been perfected over centuries, over millennia.
kwoklyn:And all I've done is like, put my little twist on it.
bruce:Well, fabulous.
bruce:So you clearly love food and it's, it's wonderful.
bruce:Isn't it wonderful to have a career based on something that Oh yeah.
bruce:You loves so much.
bruce:So when it's just you at home, what do you cook for the family?
kwoklyn:Again, I love rice, I love noodles.
kwoklyn:Um, so, you know, for me a nice big bowl of noodles with a nice
kwoklyn:clear broth and maybe some one tons or some fish cake running through
kwoklyn:it is kinda like my comfort food.
kwoklyn:It's the food that I remember eating, not only in the restaurant growing
kwoklyn:up, but also on the dinner table when my, even now when we come over and
kwoklyn:have food with my mom and dad, my dad will do like noodles for everybody.
kwoklyn:Mm-hmm.
kwoklyn:. And it's one of those dishes we can all sit and eat together, you know,
kwoklyn:like, and there's quite a lot of.
kwoklyn:In a sense, cause when you're doing noodles for that many people, because,
kwoklyn:because the noodles have to be cooked fresh for each individual person, you do
kwoklyn:tend to sit in sittings, . So the kids get served first and by the time you,
kwoklyn:the kids are eaten, our dinner's ready.
kwoklyn:But you can't beat that freshness, that cleanness, that sort of like, you know,
kwoklyn:and it, for us it's just, you know, it's.
kwoklyn:. It's our heritage.
kwoklyn:It's, it's, you know, the food that I know, it's the food that my dad ate
kwoklyn:growing up because, you know, he, he lived in a little place called Chat
kwoklyn:cot or Tachu Hang in Hong Kong, and his first job was in a one ton noodle shop.
kwoklyn:So these, so we go back, my dad's in his seventies now, so he's now
kwoklyn:passing over 70 years later, the dishes that he learned to cook in
kwoklyn:this little restaurant in Hong Kong.
kwoklyn:So you can't beat that, I don't think.
bruce:No, it sounds absolutely amazing.
bruce:Lan Juan, thank you for sharing your passion today with me with
bruce:your food, and thank you for this new book, one Walk, one Pot.
bruce:It is such fabulous comfort food.
bruce:Great.
bruce:Good luck with it.
bruce:And thanks for spending some time with me this morning.
kwoklyn:My absolute pleasure.
kwoklyn:And thank you so much for having me.
mark:So this guy is clearly a big celebrity.
mark:In where he
bruce:is from, right?
bruce:Yeah, he is.
bruce:He is really well known.
bruce:His guy is big on tv.
bruce:It's so funny.
bruce:Yeah, he's on our little podcast and it's not his first book and I love this
bruce:book and I even love the cover of it.
bruce:It's, it actually silly.
bruce:It has like a little Dr.
bruce:Seuss quality about the typeface and all, but the book
bruce:is so full of delicious stuff.
mark:So before we get to the last segment, what spanking is
mark:happening through this week?
mark:Let me say that it would be great if you could subscribe to this podcast.
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mark:Nice podcast.
mark:That would do wonders for us since we are unsupported doing this
mark:just for the love of doing us.
mark:Okay, so moving on.
mark:What's making us happy in food this week?
bruce:Salsa matcha.
bruce:Oh, that is making me happy.
bruce:So if you don't know what that is, it is a Mexican chili spice paste.
bruce:Not unlike Chinese.
bruce:Chili crisp, but it's Mexican with mini more.
bruce:They're nuts and there's nuts in its, and lots, lots of knots.
bruce:Mark just made a batch because we have a dinner party coming up where I'm doing
bruce:a goat bia and I'm doing refried beans and I'm doing a deconstructed guacamole
bruce:with a pan cutta, and I'm doing a.
bruce:Tongue tacos and heart and interesting stuff.
bruce:Mark made this great salsa mash with pistachios and walnuts and
bruce:pepitas and anchos and Marita.
bruce:Chipotles and chili's de arbole and lots and
mark:lots of garlic and a little brown sugar and vinegar,
mark:and you cook it very lightly.
mark:You make, you cook it in oil and then you, uh, puree it all.
mark:It, I, there are a hundred thousand different ways to make salsa match.
mark:I basically took a recipe from the New York Times, a recipe from
mark:Rick Payless and a recipe from the Washington Post, and I kind of fused
mark:them up and made my own version.
mark:You did good.
mark:Um, it's, it is so, Super hot, but it, it should be good for what the
mark:purpose of the dinner party are.
mark:I understand it's really great on scrambled eggs.
mark:Mm-hmm.
mark:, it's really great on fried eggs.
mark:I understand that it's really great to just put on top of rice.
mark:Um, we shall see what we do with salsa matcha and how we survive with it.
mark:Okay.
mark:So what's making me happy?
mark:Yeah, what's making you happy in food this week?
mark:I think that what's making me happy in food this week is medium grain brown rice.
mark:I love.
mark:Brown rice and I brown sushi rice.
mark:I will confess that I am a fan of brown rice and medium grain,
mark:like AEO rice, medium grain rice is just a delicious thing.
mark:It's, it's nutty, but it's chewy.
mark:I not as big a fan of brown long grain rice as I am.
mark:I agree with you, medium and short grain rice.
mark:I agree with you that if there's something about the stickiness, Helps mitigate
mark:the dryness of brown rice, uh, somehow.
bruce:But the flavor's so good.
bruce:You have all that germ in there, just like you have with the
bruce:Hago rice we've talked about.
bruce:Yeah.
bruce:Yeah.
bruce:But you do get all the extra fiber and texture of the brand.
bruce:Yep.
mark:And I will confess that I make it in a rice cooker.
mark:I love our rice cooker.
mark:It's easy to do.
mark:I know a lot of people are very resistant to rice cookers cuz A, they
mark:don't need another, uh, appliance.
mark:Yes, they do.
mark:Mm-hmm.
mark:B they say I make it perfect on the stove.
mark:Mm-hmm.
mark:. I do too.
mark:I know how to make brown rice on the stove.
mark:Thank you.
mark:I've been in this career a long time.
mark:I know how to wait.
mark:White rice on the stove.
mark:Thank you.
mark:I've been in this griller a long time.
mark:I just rather make it in a rice cooker.
mark:It's so easy.
mark:I just push the button and walk away.
mark:Love my rice cooker.
mark:Yeah.
mark:I can't love it more and it keeps it nice and hot.
mark:So I make it when I get up in the morning, if I'm gonna have brown rice for lunch, I.
mark:When I get up in the morning and then it just sits there warming all day, you know,
mark:with the lid closed on the ice cooker.
mark:So I don't have to worry about it at all.
mark:It's ready when I'm ready for it, so I love it.
mark:It's a great thing.
mark:All right, that's our podcast this week.
mark:Thanks for listening.
mark:Thanks for being a part of it.
mark:Again, newsletter, subscribe it, you know the whole deal.
mark:Do all those things and thank you.
mark:For listening to this episode of Cooking with Bruce and Mark,
bruce:and download an episode next week and the week after and
bruce:the week after that and go back.
bruce:There's a great back list.
bruce:You can download episodes for the last three years so you can listen to cooking