Intro/Summary

Water leaks can ruin an RV trip fast, especially when they go unnoticed before you hit the road. In this episode of The Smart RVer Podcast, Eric Stark walks through the most common places where RV leaks occur and how to find them before they cause costly damage.

Eric covers roof leaks, plumbing leaks, appliance leaks, and those sneaky drips that only show up when the system is under pressure. He explains why a simple flashlight, a few paper towels, and a little patience can make leak detection much easier. You’ll also learn why every RVer should carry a basic emergency repair kit with common PEX fittings, clamps, and a few simple tools.

This episode is all about helping DIY RVers catch problems early, make basic repairs when possible, and keep small leaks from becoming trip-ending headaches.

Show Notes

In this episode, Eric talks about one of the most important pre-trip inspections every RV owner should do: checking for water leaks. RVs are built with lightweight materials, and even a small leak can cause serious damage if it is ignored. Floors, walls, cabinets, insulation, and underbelly areas can all suffer when water gets where it does not belong.

Eric explains the different types of leaks RV owners should watch for, including roof, plumbing, water heater, toilet, faucet, and appliance leaks. He also shares practical ways to track them down using simple items like a flashlight and paper towels. Sometimes the easiest method is still the best: pressurize the water system, slow down, and look closely.

The episode also covers why it is smart to inspect your RV before a trip instead of discovering a leak at the campground. Eric encourages listeners to build a small emergency leak repair kit with common PEX fittings, tubing, clamps, and basic hand tools so they can handle minor problems on the road.

Whether you are getting ready for your first trip of the season or preparing for a long haul, this episode will help you catch leaks early, protect your RV from water damage, and stay focused on enjoying the trip rather than dealing with repairs.

Takeaways

• Identifying water leaks in an RV is crucial, as early detection prevents extensive damage.
• Using a flashlight and paper towels helps locate leaks in RV systems.
• It is vital to differentiate between the various types of leaks, such as freshwater and blackwater.
• Regular maintenance of RV seals and fittings is essential to prevent leaks and costly repairs.
• Tire-locking chocks effectively minimize movement in tandem-axle trailers, enhancing stability and comfort.
• Having an emergency kit with the necessary parts can ensure a smooth RV experience while traveling.

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Resources Mentioned in this Episode: 

RV Pex Fittings and Tube - What to Keep in Your Tool Box

RV Water Lines and Fittings Made Simple in 2026

Spray Port Fitting Video - Fix It Before It Breaks

RV Pex Line Water Repair Kits - A must-have for any RV

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In staying on the road, we're going to talk about how to find a leak in your RV before it ruins your trip.

And then in quick tips, since we're already talking about water leaks, we're going to discuss pex fittings, what to carry, where to get them, and the emergency kit that we do sell on our website.

And then in RV Envy, tire locking chocks for trailers with tandem axles stop that movement and I'm going to explain to you how that works and the benefits of locking chocks versus everything else. I'm Eric Stark. Welcome to the Smart rver podcast. If you'd rather be camping in a senior repair shop, you are in the right place.

Every episode, I'll walk you through practical DIY maintenance and repairs that keep you on the road. Today is episode 204. So let's get into this and let's see what we got and unpack everything.

But before we really dig into it deep, my wife and I went camping over the Memorial Day weekend and I'm happy to report The RV performed 100%. Now, it doesn't mean that I didn't do a few little things before we went on our trip.

You know that pre flight check we did that you got to check it out before you go on a trip. That's just a little reminder there. Don't wait till you get to the campground to find major problems.

Even though you're prepared, you might have spare parts. Who wants to be working on their RV when you're on vacation, right? So check it out first. And that's what I did.

And I found some little things, took care of them, went on a trip problem free. So that's just a little reminder there. Let's get into staying on the road. So how to find a leak in your RV before it ruins your trip.

And it's finding that leak before you ever leave the house, finding that leak right away. I mean, there's so many ways to phrase that because, you know, water leak in an RV is bad.

You know, it's not like a leak in a house where houses can deal with a leak a little bit longer and better than an RV. Because RVs are built different. They're built with lightweight materials. Small leaks can damage floors very quickly.

They can ruin walls, cabinets, insulation. Water travels can.

You know, it can travel a while in an rv, maybe in the roof, it can start in the back of the rv, work its way towards the front, you know, maybe get a third of the way there before it really becomes exposed.

So the earlier you catch A leak in the rv, the cheaper it usually is to repair, and it causes a lot less hard to do damage or hard to repair damage, I should say. Let's face it. You know, replacing a floor in an RV because there was a water leak that just went unchecked can be a real problem.

You know that the cabinets are, you know, the RV's built, the floors put in, the cabinets are set on top. It can be a nightmare to do. You know, you can't just cut out a piece of plywood and generally just lay in a new one.

You have to work around some things. It's more complicated. Soft floors, soft ceilings, they can be real problems.

Now let's talk about water leaks and kind of break this up into areas of an RV and how water leaks, how to look at this. And the reason why I'm kind of going this route with this discussion is from experience.

You know, I get phone calls or we get phone calls in our store. And over the decades, it's kind of the same thing. And the conversation can start out very simple. I have a leak in my rv. Okay.

And then we ask, is it a roof leak? Is it the toilet leaking? Is it this leaking? Is that leaking? And then it's kind of like, oh, I'm not really sure. There's just water on the floor.

Well, what floor? In the kitchen, the bathroom? Well, I think it's the kitchen. You think? Well, I'm not sure because the water's also in the bathroom.

So the kitchen is next to the bathroom. And so, you know, that sounds. It's kind of vague. All of a sudden you're trying like, okay, what's going on here?

But they come in or they call us, wanting us to help them fix our water leak. And that's not a problem. We don't mind that. It's just we got to have more information, and that's what it turns into.

And sometimes there's frustration because the RVer thinks we just know what they're talking about, but we can't see their rv. You know, they might not understand what the water leak really is either. So for them, it's frustrating. They just want to fix it.

They know that, right?

So it's important to identify, you know, maybe not the exact spot where the leaks coming from, which you're going to have to do that sooner or later, unless you have someone else take care of it, you know, like an RV technician. But you own an rv, you could have a leak, a roof leak that's leaking down the walls and maybe going Behind a cabinet.

That could look like a plumbing leak from, let's say, the fresh water system. So there's differences. There's roof leaks, there's fresh water leaks, there's black water or dirty water.

Like if you flush the toilet and water leaks out from the base of the toilet onto the floor, that's a different type of leak. We have to identify it. You know, it could be a P trap under the sink that's leaking. It's not a pressure leak. It's just a drain leak.

A window could be leaking, clearance light. So you see, there's a lot of different ways a water leak can work into an RV and cause that damage.

So it's identifying it, and it sounds pretty basic, right? Well, it's obvious we got to identify it. You're right.

But it saves time, frustration if we kind of get an idea, both of us, whether it's you working on your RV or me trying to help you, of where that leak is coming from. You know, another good example would be a toilet. And we hear it all the time. Well, my toilet's leaking water. Okay, can we narrow that down?

What do you mean it's leaking water? Well, whenever I flush it, there's water on the floor. Okay, have you looked to see where the leak's coming from? Well, no. Isn't it just the same?

They all leak in the same spot. Well, that's not true. And if it's when you flush it, that could be the water valve letting water into its leaking.

Or it could be the base gaskets leaking. Or if it's a hybrid toilet, plastic base, porcelain top, it could actually be leaking in the center section where those two pieces come together.

That's not as common as a water valve leaking, though. So there's differences. You get my point. So, like, if the water is coming from the bowl and leaking on the floor, is the water dirty? Is it yellow?

You got a be realistic here, right? If it's dirty water, then, yeah, that could be the floor flange seal leaking. Which, by the way, toilets and RVs don't have wax gaskets.

They have a seal that's made just for that toilet to mount it to the floor. Seals aren't really interchangeable.

So whatever brand toilet you have, brand and model requires that that gasket between the toilet and the floor flange. Water leaks are a pain, and sometimes they can be hard to fix, hard to find.

You know, if you have a water leak, that's only when you're plugged into or hooked up to city Water, okay, so that's going to narrow it down. That's the pressure side of the fresh water system, and it's when you're hooked up to city water.

So that would leave out the fresh water tank, the water pump, and it's going to be everything else. Now, where's it leaking? Is it leaking at a fitting? A connection underneath the kitchen sink or the kitchen counter? I should say someplace like that.

The best way to find leaks is with a flashlight. And there's also the paper towel test, which is pretty obvious. When you put a paper towel on the fitting, you know it's going to get wet instantly.

And paper towels are good because sometimes with water, you can put your finger on a fitting and it'll feel wet because it might be cold, but it's not wet, and it might throw you off. So the paper towel is 100%. When you put it on the fitting and it pops up wet, you see it instantly.

And a flashlight helps you see the water because the light will reflect off the drips, and you catch that. It's much easier to see with a flashlight. So when you're looking for leaks, those are two tools. You definitely want to have.

Flashlight and some paper towels and good eyesight. So if you need glasses, you got to wear them. Got to find those leaks, you know. So you want to narrow it down. And what I'm.

Why I'm saying this is so you're not wasting a lot of time. You notice the leak only show up when it rains, then that would probably be a roof leak or a window leak or a clearance light leak.

And I know there's a lot of things there, but generally if it's an exterior leak, it's the roof. Could be a window. If your windows haven't been resealed in a long time, or you can see that the sealant is falling out.

But you can pinpoint these things, and sometimes it just takes a little bit longer. There may be what you like to spend on it, trying to find it.

You might have to get out of water hose and start spraying down the roofing areas to see if that's going to cause the leak. Get up on the roof. Look for potential areas. I'm kind of bouncing around here.

I guess it's just because, you know, we hear of so many different things. I want to make sure I cover it. But let's just focus on the roof for a moment.

If you go up on the roof, generally when there's a leak, it's obvious you might have a cracked vent lid. The sealant around the vents or the trim of the RV on the sides or the front, where your front cap connects to the roof, you could have a leak there.

The lap sealant could be cracking. Splitting can be completely gone.

So you're going to look for obvious things and you're just going to start there and you're going to seal those and then you can test them later on with the hose. Or if you're an area where you know it's going to rain soon, let the rain come in. But you know, it's, it's being ahead of it, fixing those leaks.

And then you know when it's raining or you're testing it, you got to get out there and look to make sure you've actually solved it. And generally leaks on the exterior are obvious. Like I said, you know, you'll see something that obviously is a problem.

And you know, windows are something I've talked about in the past on the podcast. They do leak and it's always better to take them out, reseal them properly with butyl tape and cap sealant on the top rather than just keep adding.

And I'm going to say silicone because that's what most people use, a silicone type product and they just layer it up around the frame of the window and it might fix it temporarily, but it just gets ugly, it's harder to fix later on. Right. With all that silicone build up there or any type of sealant. So pull the windows out.

So a lot of this, the exterior leaks is just maintenance, checking your clearance lights, making sure they're not loose, that the sealant still on them. So it's regular maintenance basically for an exterior leak in most cases.

Now let's jump inside of the RV and let's talk about maybe the water pump versus city water pressure. So if you have a leak and it's always under pressure right when the water pumps on or city water's on, it's always nice to know which system that is.

So if you hook up to the, to the city water and the leak is coming out of a faucet, well, that's going to happen even with the 12 volt water pump on, because that's the pressure side.

But now if the leak is only when you have water in the fresh water tank and it doesn't matter if the pump's on or not, that would indicate it's on the low pressure side of the pump, the feed side.

So the water line going from the tank to the pump, depending on how it's routed There could be one fitting, two fittings, three fittings, several fittings. So you're going to want to check that. That'd be more of a gravity feed type leak.

And maybe when you turn the pump on, it leaks worse because there's more water traveling through the line than just sitting there. It's still not under pressure, but it's moving because of the suction of the pump. So that could make the water leak worse.

And so, you know, it just makes it easier to find these leaks when you have a better idea of when it's leaking. You, like if your wife, you're out camping, says, hey, there's a leak here in the rv.

Are you hooked up to city water or hooked up or you just have the water pump on? These are little things. And a pressure leak is a pressure leak.

You know, if it's on the pressure side and it's leaking at a faucet or the toilet or a fitting, it doesn't matter if it's under pressure or not. It's a leak. You got to fix it. But understanding where to look now, maybe the leak is underneath the rv.

So is it coming from a low point drain that's cracking ground, getting old, the seals are bad, or is it the fresh water tank that's leaking? Maybe it has a crack in it. Is it a gray water leak or a black water leak? So water leak under the RV could be several different things.

So it's identifying it even to seek assistance or taking it into a shop. Sometimes they like to know so they can kind of book it differently, schedule it. But doing it yourself, you need to understand the differences.

Black water, gray water, fresh water, there's differences.

And a lot of newer RVs with their belly pans or material underneath the RV, the water could be, let's say, leaking at the toilet and running forward and coming out near the kitchen sink, because those pans will trap the water and it maybe it'll flow in a certain direction. So that can throw you off. Oh, that's where it's dripping. But yet you cut open that belly pan right there.

Open it up and the leaks not there, it's back someplace else. So that's where you got to get in your flashlight, get up in there and take a look and see where it's really coming from.

And sometimes if you look inside the rv, you can give you an idea of where the leak is and the direction to go. And now leaks are not an impossible thing to fix. I know I'm covering a lot of different stuff here. Where they can be leaks on the pressure side.

The pump side p trap could be leaking. So that would be the drain side. That's no pressure. But fixing is the key.

And most of the leaks you're going to find in your RV are probably going to be roof leaks, fresh water leaks on the plumbing or the pressure side of the system, whether it's on the pump or hooked up to city water. And the pex fittings, the connectors that go let's say to a kitchen sink, an elbow of fitting going to the water pump.

There's a strainer on the water pump or there should be. And quite often there's a clear plastic canister on there that has a screen in it.

Those plastic canisters can crack and sometimes it can be a hairline crack and they can just have a slow little drip out of them. So it might be that. But the pex fittings definitely leak. The seals leak. Sometimes they crack.

On a nautilus water system, if you have a nautilus panel in your RV, we're seeing like a big rush on the 90 degree elbows cracking for no reason. They just split. So not sure what's causing that, but it's a leak. So all of these leaks can definitely be fixed.

They are do it yourself types of repairs, any of the pex stuff, whether this flaret fittings are in there best. Pecs, crimp type fittings, you know, compression type fittings, ctek, these things can be repaired yourself. It's just having the right parts.

And keep this in mind when you go to the RV store to buy your parts. Make sure of the size of the pex line you're working with.

More than likely it's going to be half inch or it's a 5,8 OD, but it's called half inch because the inside is half inch. Keep that in mind. Don't just assume the guy's going to know at the parts counter.

And sometimes pictures you can tell the difference in the pex line sizes, especially if there's two different sizes side by side. But if they're not, make sure you measure it. Just get a rough measurement. It doesn't have to be exact, you know, if you say it's quarter inch.

Well there is quarter inch line and they generally have different fittings. These are pre made pigtails that manufacturers use. Take pictures if you're not sure or just take pictures anyways.

Pictures really help explain it because when you start talking about all these fittings and stuff and you know it's okay this, that trying to Follow it, it makes more sense. And then by the time you get to the store, did you forget half of what you thought you could remember? But the fittings are easy.

You know, most of the threaded fittings are half inch pipe thread. The other ones are, you know, if they're just coupling two lines together, elbows, it's going to be for half inch pecs in most cases.

That's what we sell the most of.90% of our PEX fitting sales are half inch. Okay. Doesn't mean that's what you have. That's just what we sell the most of.

Because in some cases that could be replacing some three, eight type fittings or quarter inch, you know, maybe quarter inch will go up to 3, 8, but it's real easy. So finding those leaks is going to take a little bit of time in some cases. Sometimes they're super obvious, man, it's leaking right there.

You know, it's right in front of you. But don't delay, fix it, but find the leaks.

If you know, every time you use your rv, you should walk around with a flashlight, check under the cabinets, your kitchen sink, your bathroom sink, the tubs a little bit harder. You know, you're not gonna be able to access the faucet, the back of it, very easy. If you can, I would check it, but check for leaks.

Just, you know, give it a once over so you can fix those things. Especially if it's before you're going on a trip. Stay on top of that.

And you know, when I say you're going on a trip and checking your rv, that's not six months before you go on the trip.

You know, it's just a few days or a week, something to give you time to, if there's a problem, to repair it, whether it's a leak or something else, and fix it. Right.

And I say that because so many times people run to the hardware store, buy some sort of sealant for the roof, they put it on there, it might fix the leak temporarily, but it's ugly, it's nasty, and sometimes it can damage the rubber membrane on the roof. Use products that are made for RVs. So maybe you're gonna have to keep something at home. You know, keep it in a cool, dry area.

If you buy some lap sealant and remember, once you open it, you're pretty much not gonna be able to reseal the cartridge. You know, you might need to open it for one little tiny thing on the roof.

But heck, a 13 or $14 cartridge of lap sealant is a lot cheaper than a 2, 3, $400,000. $2,000 Repair on the roof, right? Just look at it. Well, it's a $14 repair.

I hate wasting this tube of lap sealant got to do or buying some fittings, having spares, which I'm going to get into next after this. So I hope that helps you understand, you know, a little more about leaks in the rv.

I know it was kind of a broad brush here, but there's a lot of spots in an RV to check and I don't want to go through it line by line because we'd be here all day. And I know you got better things to do, right? I mean, I love you listening to the podcast now.

I'm sharing this information, but we have to be realistic. So you have, you know, just to kind of sum it up, you have a water heater, water pump. You have the faucets, you have a fresh water tank.

You have your supply lines, you have fittings throughout the rv. Your water pump has a strainer on it that can be cracked. Just to give you, you know, some ideas here.

Your, your hookup on the side of the RV can spring a leak. You know, the city water hookup. Some. There's a spray port on a lot of RVs, those things have a plastic fitting on the back that breaks constantly.

In fact, we have a video on that. I will put that in the link about what to replace and how to do it so you don't have that problem again.

Your toilet water valve, if you have a dometic 300 series toilet, chances are the fresh water valve is leaking whenever there's water on the floor because they crack all the time. That's a given on those things. I mean, you still got to look and make sure. But that thing fails regularly. So those are just some quick tips here.

In fact, I'll put this list on our website on the smartrver.com just so you can have it check it out and then you can peruse through it or print it or keep it on your phone or just keep it handy so you have it. And then it also gives you an idea of some, some things you're going to want to carry, which is I'm going to.

Which is what I'm going to get into next. So there you go. There's some information that's going to help you when you go on your next trip.

Make sure everything's going good and get it repaired before you ever set out on the road. All right, now let's go to the quick tips and talk about PEX fittings and the videos that I've done.

So PEX fittings are throughout your rv and pex is a broad term. What that means is they just work with the PEX tubing. They'll work with it, no problem. And they'll work with everything in your RV.

So RVs are chocked full of pex fittings and some of the lines come from the factory. They're little pre made pigtails. It'll have a half inch female threaded nut on each end.

Go from this area of the RV to this area, maybe a faucet down to the main water system. It'll screw onto it. So those things are factory type lines which can just be replaced. If this quarter inch you go up to 3, 8.

Most RV stores aren't going to carry those unless there's a real common size that fails regularly. It just depends. Each store dealership is going to carry different stuff.

But all of it, all of the businesses will be able to help you get your RV back on the road. Then there's the clamp on or crimp type PEX fittings. There's some that have like a copper ring. It's just a round copper ring.

Takes a special tool to put it on. Crimps it on. That's it. That's one style. Then you have the stainless steel crimp rings where they have a. I don't know what you'd call that.

I'm sure there's a official term for it. But it's obvious that stainless steel, the bands are, are put together and the tool goes on there. Crimps it, squeezes it.

Then you have this thing sticking up. Very obvious. And then now there's the crimp clamps. I forget the official name from Escobar or flare it. And they use channel locks to put on there.

You're not going to find those on a new RV. New RVs are generally one version of the clamp, either the round ring or the stainless steel clamp because they're quicker to install at a factory.

They just go and zip, zip, zip, clamp those things on there. Move on where the plastic clamps that we recommend, made by Flaret, they are aftermarket.

They work great but you're just not going to find them on a new rv. I don't even know if all RV stores sell them.

You know, they're still fairly new and sometimes it takes a while for these things to catch on or someone might look at it. Oh, that'll never work. And we've been using them for over a year now and they work awesome.

So those are the clamping type scenarios and then you have the flare it fittings, which you could say are compression, where the line slides onto the fitting, you tighten up the nut and that holds the line in place and they work great. So all of these forms of fittings work good when they're done right. You know, when they're installed properly, they're basically leak free.

It's just as time goes on, fittings dry out, seals dry out and things crack, break. And there's the crimp on type fitting that come on RVs and they go to the faucets, the toilet, and they break pretty regularly.

They're a swivel type fitting and there's better versions of them today. So if you buy something to replace it, it'll more than likely be a better version of that and you'll be good to go.

So we have links on our [email protected] with these PEX fitting kits that we sell and they kind of COVID the gamut on what you need in an emergency. And the big difference between the kits is the quantity of the parts, not the parts themselves, but just the quantity in the kit.

So one kit has more, one kit has less type of thing. And these are all the common parts for fitting or for pec systems that we see in the store. So we built this based on that.

And we not only sell them online, we actually sell them in our store too. A lot of people just buy them so they have them.

And the key is if you use a fitting to fix something at home or out on a trip, just make sure you replace it. Go back and get the same fitting and throw it right back in that kit so you have it next time. And these kits will save your bacon, I guarantee it.

I keep them in my RV or I keep one of my rv.

I keep pex tubing in my rv, everything to make it work because it's very important to keep these things going, going properly so you don't have these leaks. So I'll have links to the, to the videos and the website in the description of the podcast, so you can check that out on your own.

Now let's jump into RV envy and we're going to talk about tire lock chocks stop the movement in travel trailers. Tandem axles.

Now, this product or this, you know, this section of the thing really is for trailers with tandem axles, whether it's a travel trailer or fifth wheel. So it's not going to be the same with a motorhome or a single axle trailer. But you might be able to pick something up here.

Maybe someday you're going to have one of these trailers with tandem axles or triple axles. So locking chocks go between the tires, and that's what I'm talking about.

The ones that go between the two tires or the two axles, they're not chocks that go on the ground. The plastic ones that you shove into the tire, which those work, but they don't work as well as the one that go between the tires.

And the reason why is the plastic or rubber lock chocks, you know, they go up to the tire, but as the trailer moves, as you're walking around inside of it, those chocks will kind of get pushed out of the way, if you will, back and forth. That creates a little bit of a headache in the trailer because it now wants to move. And you know, movement in an RV can be very annoying.

I didn't really say this up front, but you know, it's almost like being on a boat sometimes. And too much of it can make it kind of awkward to do anything. Some people can actually get a little queasy from it.

You know, if you're moving around too much, the chocks stop that.

And what's cool about the locking chocks that go between the tires is they really lock down the wheels so you're not getting that back and forth movement at all.

And so if you have stabilizers out that are, you know, planted into the ground, taking the load off the tires or the suspension, if you will, and then you have those lock chocks, your trailer is going to sit pretty still, which is very nice. Now these lock chocks, there's two different types, if you will. There's different brands, but there's two different types.

There's plastic and there's metal. Camco makes plastic ones. And I'm sure there's a ton of plastic ones on the Jungle website. Ring by. All that cheap Chinese crap that doesn't last.

So you don't really want to go with plastic unless it's a budgetary thing.

But if you do go with the Camco ones, plastic doesn't work as good because the way they're put together, they're going to allow some movement, but they're definitely going to make a big difference versus nothing. I mean, it'll be day and night difference for you. But metal ones, when you put them in, they just lock it down and it's done.

Now they're a lot more expensive but that's okay.

When you buy these things, if you take care of them, which I mean, you know, leave them out in the rain or letting them rust, letting them sit in a bucket of water, something crazy, they're going to last a lifetime. Unless you decide to hook up your trailer to your truck and just take off with them still between the tires.

You know, you don't want to forget about that. That would ruin them. That probably cause other damage too. But anyways, I'm kind of getting sidetracked here.

The steel ones are going to last a lot longer than the plastic and they're going to work a lot better. Now, plastic are less expensive. So if it's, you know, a budgetary thing, buy the plastic by all means, but buy Camco ones.

Don't go off into the cheap land. Like I said on the Jungle website. Now, some trailers have what are called wide track systems.

So the axles are farther apart so the distance between the tires could be 10 inches, 12 inches. So they do make these metal ones for the wide track. And they still work good. They work very good.

And another cool thing about the tire locking chocks is they don't take up nearly as much space as having a bunch of wheel chock. So you can try out your system and if you don't need those wheel chocks, maybe bring one or two for an emergency to keep the trailer from moving.

If you have to unhook, you know you're stuck on the side of the road for some reason. But the tire locking chocks, they don't take up nearly as much space. So for storage space, you. It's a gain, it's an absolute gain.

They'll add a little bit of weight.

But when you compare the locking or the wheel chocks, if you have eight wheel chocks, they're the big bulky Camco ones, the yellow ones or Voltaire, it doesn't matter. You know, they're going to take up more space, a lot more space. So you can get rid of some of them guys and just carry these metal ones.

They work really cool. And the brands I'm going to recommend are Stromberg Carlson number one, Val would come in second, then Ultrafab and Camco. Those are the brands.

And I highly recommend sticking with these mainstream brands. The quality is always better and you got a warranty.

And each one of those companies, you can talk to someone there, a human being, if you need to talk to them about a warranty issue. A technical question and you know, I've covered that so many times.

How Customer service just going by the wayside today, so stick with companies that can actually answer their phone and help you. All right, so I want to encourage everybody to continue to watch the podcast or listen to the podcast on Spotify, itunes, all them awesome places.

Or if you're checking it out on YouTube, you can watch it there. And keep in mind, if you're watching the podcast on YouTube, it is a podcast.

It doesn't have all the whoop and highfalutin whatevers that you'd find in a regular video. Okay. It's just a podcast. It's just the video version of the podcast. Just as a reminder, okay.

There's so many videos with so many things going on nowadays, sometimes you might look at, gosh, there's nothing happening here. That's because it's a podcast. All right? And I really appreciate everybody sharing our podcast with their family and friends.

When there's an episode or something in there that really catch your attention, share it with others. Man, we love it. We love to hear about that.

We were recommended by someone else, so, hey, in our next episode, 205, we're probably going to be talking about water again. Water is a big thing right now in RVs. Well, we're just seeing a lot of it. It's just on the forefront of my mind.

So we're gonna continue this until we wear it all out. But we want to make sure your RV is staying dry. All right, so that's going to do it for today's episode of the Smart rver podcast.

Thank you for listening. I'm Eric Stark, and if you'd rather be camping than sitting in a repair shop, you're in the right place.

Until next time, take care of the little things and enjoy the trip.