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Biking the Entire Western Hemisphere with Gary Clarke (Re-Release)
Episode 5512th August 2026 • onefjef • Jef Taylor
00:00:00 01:13:56

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I met Gary in a Spanish class in Mexico City. I didn’t learn much Spanish, but I did make a friend who was riding a bicycle from Alaska to Patagonia. We talk about that, his old life on oil rigs, and eating guinea pig for breakfast.

Follow Gary Clarke on Instagram @gary_clarke

(This episode was originally released on 11/05/2025.)

Please show some support for the podcast and get access to some extra content by subscribing to the Patreon page: http://www.patreon.com/onefjef

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You can also call the podcast and leave a voicemail at 1-669-241-5882 and I will probably play it on the air.

Thank you for listening, please do it again, but while eating guinea pig.

Onefjef is produced, edited & hosted by Jef Taylor.

Transcripts

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Hola, mis amigos y amigas.

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Es Jef.

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¿Qué onda?

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How are you?

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As always and forever, I hope you are thriving.

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I looked it up.

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There is unfortunately no word for thriving in Spanish.

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The closest I can get is like super bien or muy bien,

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but it's not really the same.

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It doesn't feel the same.

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And, uh, yeah, I'm not here to suggest that another word be

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added to the Spanish language.

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I am not here to suggest that because there are plenty, plenty of words.

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But if there is some sort of a list of words waiting to be added to the Spanish

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language, I hope that thrive is on it.

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Maybe thrivendo or thrivo or something.

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I don't know.

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It's-- You figure it out.

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Anyway, this here episode is the last of the onefjef re-released episodes for

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the hiatus of twenty twenty-six, which means I have to stop procrastinating

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and start editing these interviews that I recorded a while back.

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I will.

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I must.

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I will.

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It has been nice to have a bit of, uh, downtime, a bit of a break,

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though, and it feels like it flew by.

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I mean, I've been in this new apartment for a month today, which is

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crazy to me, not necessarily to you.

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I mean, maybe to you, but to me, it feels like just yesterday

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that I moved in and enjoyed my terrace for the very first time.

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And now thirty days or thirty-one days have passed.

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Time it does, don't it?

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Yes, it do.

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And what episode might you be re-releasing this week, Jef?

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Well, I'm glad you asked.

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I will be re-releasing the interview with my friend Gary Clarke, who I met a

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year and a half ago when I first visited Mexico City, and who was at the time in

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the midst of an epic bike ride from Alaska to the southern tip of South America.

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This interview wasn't recorded until November of last year, though,

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at which point he was in Peru.

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And now he's back home in the UK, still thriving, of course.

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There's really no way to describe what Gary did as anything other than,

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like, amazing, incredible, etc. But Gary doesn't really see it that way.

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He just wanted to travel, and he decided that a bike was the best way to do it.

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He talks about that and many more things in the interview that follows.

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He's a super interesting guy who's had an interesting life both on

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a bike and not on a bike, and you're gonna enjoy this interview.

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If you've already heard it, you'll enjoy it more the second time.

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I insist.

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I insist.

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So my friends, here is my interview with Gary Clarke

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recorded on November 3rd, 2025.

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I, um, ordered breakfast the other day and, uh, all I heard was, uh,

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fritter, and up until then I'd had chicken fritters, so I thought,

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"This, yeah." And, uh, I ended up with quarter of a, um, fried guinea pig.

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And I was like, "Yeah." Right, but they eat a lot of guinea pig down there.

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They like guinea pig.

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Yeah, they love it.

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Did you try it?

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Love it?

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Well, I had to.

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It was, uh, basically what I ordered that breakfast.

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Yeah, there's not a lot of meat on it, surprisingly.

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Right, right, right.

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Was it good?

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Uh, no.

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So, uh, yeah, most of it ended up on the, um, side dish.

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This is episode 23 of onefjef.

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The number 23 has an uncanny way of showing up in

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science, nature, and mystery.

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Humans have 23 pairs of chromosomes in their DNA, and the Earth is

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tilted at about 23 degrees on its axis, giving us seasons.

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It's said that blood takes roughly 23 seconds to circulate through the body,

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and the 23rd hour, 11:00 PM, marks the final hour before a new day begins.

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These patterns help give rise to the 23 enigma, the belief that

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this number appears suspiciously often and carries hidden meaning.

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Hello, my friends.

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How are you?

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Good?

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I hope that's a yes.

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If not, keep listening.

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This podcast is about to make you feel better.

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Why, you ask?

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Because today's guest is Gary Clarke.

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Gary Clarke is a British long-distance cyclist currently

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attempting to ride around the world.

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Right now, he's pedaling from Alaska all the way to the southern tip of

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Chile, continuing a journey that's already taken him across Australia,

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through Southeast Asia, India, Japan, and into the mountains of Nepal.

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Before turning to life on the road, Clarke worked on offshore oil rigs and platforms,

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a career he left behind to pursue a slower, more deliberate way of seeing

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the world from the saddle of a bicycle.

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Sometimes you meet a person and you just feel like you'll know them forever.

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And that was how I felt after I met Gary in Mexico City earlier this year.

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We were in a Spanish class together, which was incidentally the same class

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where I met the couple who I had dinner with in St. Louis on my road

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trip, episode nine, if you're curious.

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I didn't learn much in that class.

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I don't think Gary did either.

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But I met some great people, and I'll take great people over

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knowledge any day of the week.

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We had a fairly immediate connection, Gary and I. We share a similar

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sense of humor and perspective on life and the way the world works.

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And he's just a really likable guy.

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We did a bunch of sightseeing together, ate some amazing food together, and

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I actually ended up letting him crash for a couple nights in the extra

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bedroom in my Airbnb, so we could go on this amazing hot air balloon

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ride over the Teotihuacan pyramids.

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The interesting thing about Gary is that he barely talked about his bike trip.

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Most of the people in the Spanish class we were in didn't even know that he was doing

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this until I mentioned it, and then they were like, "Whoa, really?" And I think

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it's because Gary doesn't really think what he's doing is all that remarkable.

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It's just something he likes to do, so he's doing it.

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But it is remarkable, as I'm sure most of you would agree.

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So I'm grateful that he was willing to take some time out from this epic trip

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of his to talk to me from the guest house he was staying at in Huaraz, Peru.

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And just FYI, due to Peruvian internet issues, uh, we had to have

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this conversation over WhatsApp, so the sound quality isn't perfect.

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But you'll get over it.

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You probably won't even notice it.

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Or maybe you wouldn't have noticed it had I not said anything, and

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now that I have said something, you'll be listening for it.

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So maybe just disregard.

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Thank you as always and forever to my new Patreon subscribers.

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Actually, there's just one since the last episode, but everything

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helps, so thank you to my new and continuing Patreon subscribers

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for your support of the podcast.

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I'll be putting some photos of Gary and I in Mexico City in the

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Patreon feed for your enjoyment.

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And there's another bonus episode for you on the way.

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If you yourself would like some visual aids to enhance your experience of

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this podcast or if you'd just like to help support the show, please do go to

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patreon.com/onefjef and sign up for as little as five dollars a month, and you

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too will get access to all the amazing bonus content I've put out there.

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And you'll get street cred.

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patreon.com/onefjef.

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And whether you're a Patreon subscriber or not, I appreciate you

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and your magical ears, which you are using right now to hear my voice.

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I don't know much about how ears work, but the little I do know leads me to

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believe that it's kind of miraculous, this ability to hear, and I'm glad you're

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using this miracle to listen to onefjef.

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So thank you for listening.

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Thank you for being here.

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Here's Gary Clarke talking to me from a guesthouse in Huaraz, Peru

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Yeah, I messed around on, um, ChatGPT.

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I had to get, um, something together for an insurance company.

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And then I, um, managed to go out, get some, um, camping gas and a few

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supplies ready for the off tomorrow.

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All right.

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Well, I think this will actually work.

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It's not ideal, but, uh, Peruvian internet is not known for

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its high-quality connections.

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Absolutely, mate.

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We'll, we'll, we'll work round it.

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Right.

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So Gary Clarke, it's so good to talk to you again.

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It's been, uh, what?

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About eight months or so since we met.

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It has been, Jef, yeah, yeah.

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Yeah.

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Very good memories.

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Yeah, indeed.

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Yeah.

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So Gary and I met, uh, I was in Mexico earlier this year, and we met, um, in a

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Spanish class actually, um, that wasn't a very good Spanish class as we've, Gary

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and I have joked about many, many times.

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I forget, I forget what the one joke was about.

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This is better than that thing.

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We just wanted to know how to order tacos, so.

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Yeah, yeah.

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And instead- We needed phrases.

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Yeah, and we were getting this, that, and the… Yeah.

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Yeah, yeah.

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We were getting- But- … some more advanced things.

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Um, so, so yeah, it wasn't the best class in terms of learning Spanish, but in terms

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of, like, making friends, it was great.

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Uh, and then me, me and Gary went on a magical air balloon ride in Mexico by

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the pyramids outside of Mexico City.

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That was kind of an amazing day, actually, and we didn't die.

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We didn't die, and it was magnificent.

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The views was incredible.

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Uh, and I was amazed how many balloons they put up in the air.

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Yeah, there was one that crashed recently too, I saw.

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Um- Was there?

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Yeah, I think I sent you- Yeah … I thought I sent you the link, but yeah.

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Um, yeah, somebody died, so, uh, at least we didn't- Oh, okay … didn't, we didn't,

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we didn't get on that one, so that's good.

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That was good.

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That is always a positive when you make it back.

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So where are you right now?

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Where do I find you right now?

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I'm in Huaraz, which is the, um, basically the climbing and high peak

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hiking sort of, um, epicenter for the high peaks around this area.

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What, what big city is it near?

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Is near anything I would know?

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Well, it's close… It's inland from Lima, really.

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Lima being on the coast.

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Right.

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Right.

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And then Huaraz is, um, pretty much as soon as you see the, um,

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snow-capped mountains, um, this is in the foothills of that.

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So it's pretty.

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It is stunning, yeah.

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It's lovely.

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Um, and there's a lot of, uh, international, uh, backpackers and,

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uh, people that have come probably specifically for the climbs.

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Right.

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Right, right.

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So, um, tell me, I mean, I mean, I know, but, like, tell my listeners,

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uh, about what, what, what kind of trip you're on here, your biking trip here.

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Yeah, yeah.

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I basically, uh, COVID, um, put a good couple of years gap in between

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my five-year riding around the world.

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Um, and, um, to look for a decent, uh, start to finish ride, I decided to, um,

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pick the Alaska to Patagonia, um, Ushuaia in Ar- Argentina route, which really

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is an unbroken cycle ride continuous through the, uh, North and South and

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Central Americas up until you get to Panama and the Darien Gap, which you

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either boat or you, in my case, fly over.

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Oh, you took a plane.

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I was wondering.

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I did.

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I was… Yeah, I was the wrong time of year, Jeff.

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I basically, if I was a little bit sooner, um, the sun would've been out, and, um, it

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probably would be quite a pleasant ride.

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Uh, for my time of year, it was just gonna be a choppy, uh, rather unpleasant-

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Mm … I hope this ends- Right, vomit

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sort of ride.

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Right, vomit inducing as they say.

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Yeah.

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Exactly.

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Exactly.

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Um, I, uh… So you started in, where in Alaska did you start, and when was that?

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Yeah, I started up in, um, the northernmost, um, accessible part of, um,

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Alaska, which is Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay.

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Okay.

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Uh, which is, yeah, is pretty much, um, only really accessible because,

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uh, of the oil that is up there.

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Of course.

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Um, yeah.

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And then you cycle down a supply line which pretty much shadows the

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pipeline running from Deadhorse down to Valdez, um, which is where it's,

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um, shipped out all the time to.

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Right, the giant pipeline and all that.

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And when- Yeah … when was, when was that?

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When did you start?

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Yeah.

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Uh, I started about as early as you can in the season, which was

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around about the 9th of June.

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Uh, and I was about the third person out that year.

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The 9th of June of last year.

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Of last year, yes.

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Of 2024.

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Yep.

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Okay.

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And then you're planning to get to where by the end of the trip?

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Where's the, where's the final destination?

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Final destination is the southern tip down by, uh, uh, Tierra del Fuego.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Tierra del Fuego.

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That's it.

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Yeah.

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Uh, and Ushuaia is the, um, the, the, the name of the town.

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They also use it, um, uh, for a destination or a leaving point for

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the, um, Antarctic, um, cruises.

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Right.

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Right, right.

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And when do you-- How far from there are you?

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When do you think you'll get there?

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Well, I did have a quick look.

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I'm, uh, I'm roughly about 7,500 kilometers- Jesus … which, um,

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yeah, even with the Andes in, in between, it's gonna be a good, um,

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maybe January/February, um- Right, but it'll be summer though, so.

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It will.

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Hopefully, it starts getting warmer.

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The only thing is the, um, winds, which- Right … hope- I'm kinda hoping are in

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my favor going, uh, from north to south.

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I mean, I had a-- I dated a woman who lived in Chile for 13

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years in, um, what city was it?

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It was, uh, Punta Arenas, which is right down there in Patagonia.

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And her big-- She's triggered by the wind now because it's so w-

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it's like a constant gale-force wind down there according to her.

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So just preparing you, Gary, because it may be- Yeah

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it may be windy.

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Much appreciated, Jeff.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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No, um, I have ridden the reverse, um, from Ushuaia to, um,

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funnily enough, this town, Araz.

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Uh, and then I, um, returned and got back to Lima and then

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flew into, uh, New Zealand.

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Uh, that was the first part of my ride.

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Oh, so you've already r- kind of done this part of the trip, but just backwards?

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I have.

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This is roughly as far north as I got, um, 10 years ago.

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So this is part of a, what?

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A bigger, a grander, a grander scheme of g- biking across the entire world?

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Yeah.

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I started really, I was gonna end in Australia, um, 'cause I did go

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through the points system, uh, to enter and emigrate to Australia.

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Um, however, during the ride, I, um, realized that it was

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such a fantastic lifestyle.

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Um, and I got less and less, uh, interested in going back to my former job,

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which I, you know, prior to the cycling I was, um, it was quite important to me.

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Right.

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Right, right.

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So when did you decide to do this, um, incredible biking

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around the world to a degree?

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It was a good 10 years ago.

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Um, and I set off with the intention of it being a, um,

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six-month, um, cycle ride basically.

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I'd saved South America as a big trip.

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Uh, so I looked at, um… I was working off shore at the time, and,

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um, I was looking at it and I thought, well, there's no train routes.

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It'll all be by buses, which I didn't really fancy.

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And then I thought about a motorbike, uh, but I've got no real history of

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riding a motorbike or maintaining one, and I thought that sounds

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like a disaster waiting to happen.

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Right.

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So, uh, I basically trialed a fold-up bike in Burma for three weeks, having

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flown into Bangkok and bought one.

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Uh, and, uh, yeah, I was like, this is doable.

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So then, um, it was just gonna be a six-month cycle

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trip, uh, back to Australia.

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Uh, but by the time I got there I thought I'd just as well cycle round Australia

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whilst I've got the, uh, the visa.

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Right.

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Uh, and then during the, those two years, uh, I was like, yeah, Japan might be nice.

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Uh, and then I… Southeast Asia, uh, Northern India, uh, Kazakhstan,

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the rest of the St- You've done all these, you've biked across all

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these countries, all these places?

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Yeah.

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Wow.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Did you train before you started this whole adventure

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or did you just start doing it?

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Yeah.

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I, um, I wasn't much of a cyclist.

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Um, uh, and probably even when I'm not cycling around the world, I…

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Cycling's not something I, um, think, "Oh, I'll get on the bike." Huh.

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Um, so I just find it the best way to travel.

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The right pace, you see things, you interact with people.

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Um, you're not trying to just get from A to B and then do stuff when you get to B.

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Right.

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Your journey starts when you set off in the morning.

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Uh, you get some wonderful camping spots.

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Um, yeah, there's a lot of positives.

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It does keep you fit.

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Obviously it's good for your mental and, um, physical health.

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Sure.

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Sure.

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So yeah, I, um, hadn't done a great deal, but I was trying to keep myself a

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little bit active on the treadmill and a few things whilst working offshore.

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Otherwise you can, um, you can get a bit drawn into 16, 17-hour days.

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Yeah.

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Uh, and a lot of that can be in and around a computer.

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Sure.

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Yeah.

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So- Tell me about it.

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Um- Yeah.

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Uh, so, so you just have been biking and then wherever you feel like

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kinda stopping, if you're like in the middle of nowhere, you just

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pitch a tent and, and set up and, and sleep there, wherever it is?

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Well, some, some countries favor or lean to it a little bit better than others.

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Some, uh, the Colombia and Ecuador, for example, of j- a,

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a lot of it was, um, fenced in.

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Right.

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So if you get to that sort of s- nor- um, the North Island

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in New Zealand was the same.

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Um, I don't wanna jump over a fence to put a tent up.

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Right.

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Right, right.

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So you try to get, you know, you try to get to either, um, a designated, um,

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camp spot or, um, y- y- you look for accommodation, which was affordable,

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obviously, for Ecuador and Colombia.

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Right.

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Right.

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I mean, it's a very inexpensive way to travel, I'd imagine.

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You know, you're, you're not paying for any of the buses, uh- Yeah

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trains or whichever else.

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Right.

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Uh, there's no fuel involved.

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Um, you know, y- you eat cheaper probably than you would even if you

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were, um, you know, backpacking.

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For sure.

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So, um- For sure … you know, the h- the costs are definitely kept down.

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I mean, are you tired?

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Uh, funnily enough, for the first time, uh, in the, um, years that I've been

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riding, my legs played up when I got to, to the south of, uh, Colombia.

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Ah.

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Uh, and that was a f- yeah.

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Yeah, that was a f- that was a good eye-opener.

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It made me focus on how much I was doing per day.

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Right.

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Um, the hills are no joke.

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Um, obviously when you're a little bit younger, you don't

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have to worry about these things.

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Sure, sure.

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But, uh, nutrition, um, fluids, uh, so yeah, I've, uh- How old are you now, Gary?

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Uh, 55 now.

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Unbelievable.

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Is this the longest trip you've done?

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The previous one started off that it was gonna be six months and ended

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up five years, so- Oh, right … um- But that was with some breaks.

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You were, you were not biking the entire time.

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Absolutely.

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Right.

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No, no.

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The, the… In fairness, you've, you've gotta, you've gotta pace it,

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otherwise, um, you do mentally, uh, find yourself a little bit under it.

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It's, um, you've gotta get the balance, otherwise it can become a bit of a,

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um- Like a slog … bit of a task.

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Right.

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Yeah.

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Like a slog.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Uh, yeah, you stopped in Mexico City for two or three weeks

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or something, didn't you?

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I mean, that you were there for a while.

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Yeah.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Yeah.

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The other one with that, Jef, is basically I was … Once I'd got out

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of North America, I felt as if I was trying to chase the, um, seasons.

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I couldn't start in Alaska- Right … too soon.

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I had to get over, um, Colorado before it started to snow.

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Yeah.

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You know, and then basically by the time I got to the, the Baja, I knew I could

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slow down in Central America- Right

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to try to time it to get to Patagonia in their summertime.

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Yeah.

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And how many miles do you think that'll be the whole tr- this whole trip?

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Do you have any idea?

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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I don't, no.

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I d- I don't really plan much, Jef, really.

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I just, um, it … I quite like the spontaneity of, um, you

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know, turning up to places that you don't have a clue about.

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Sure.

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Um, I have a little bit of an idea of the route.

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You generally know, you know, roughly where you're heading, but that can

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change, you know, within a couple of days.

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So yeah, I, I'm, I'm basically gearing up now for a route that's

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called the, um, Peruvian, I think they call it Great Divide.

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Um- Uh-huh … which is something that, uh, some intrepid, um, people

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beforehand, in fact, that they were called the Pikes on Bikes.

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Um, it's now been, uh, designated by bikepacking.com, and, um, it's one

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of their, uh, main South American routes, so it- Oh, well, that's good.

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At least it'll be made for bikes.

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I think that's probably … I would, I would get sketched out because I don't

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like sharing the, the road with cars.

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It freaks me out.

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I feel like I'm gonna get hit by a car.

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That can happen, Jef.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Um, yeah.

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You do, though, you do hear of, um, cyclists out and about that,

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um, unfortunately do get hit, and unfortunately motorists, um- Don't

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consider that you've been riding for seven or eight hours that day

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and your legs ain't very good.

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Right.

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Right.

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Um, they presume you're just riding around a corner.

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Right.

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And what kind of, uh… What are you, what are you taking with you?

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What do you have on your bike?

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Yeah, one of the first things when you first set off is you generally over-pack.

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You take a lot of nice to haves.

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There were, yeah, extra couple of tops and a few other things.

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So once you've been out a while, you streamline that down, 'cause

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as soon as you hit the hills- Right

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every little T-shirt- Right … you can feel.

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I carry, uh, and again, you sort of do your homework, uh, to select

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decent quality stuff that packs down small volume and is light.

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Um, so yeah, camping gear, sleeping stuff, cooking stuff, warm gear, uh,

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warm clothes, w- uh, wet clothes.

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Well, s- sorry, wet weather clothes.

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And, uh, obviously something for maintenance on the bike.

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Sure, sure.

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How many flats have you gotten on this trip?

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Like, a load, actually.

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I was doing fine in North America.

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I had a couple of, um, random ones- Right … uh, that you th- you think,

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"Oh, that's a bit unfortunate." Yeah.

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But then when I got to the Baja, I, uh, I was starting to pick up

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quite a few, um, thorns, basically.

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I think they're goatheads, they call them.

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Even, uh, Arizona, maybe.

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Uh- Right … and once it starts, it seems as if you just, um,

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end up on a, a bad run of them.

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So- Uh-huh … you're still, you know, you're constantly

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taking that back wheel off.

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But, um, since Mexico, and in fact just after, I think I'd just had it

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done, Jef, when I came around to yours before we did the, um, balloon trip.

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I went, um, tubeless.

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And, um- Oh, right.

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Right, right, right … the w- that had been going fantastic

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up until, where did I get to?

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Somewhere in Colombia.

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Plenty of glass on the road.

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Uh, just happened to hit a, uh… Well, the tire was getting

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a little bit thin as well.

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Um, and then it was just too big to plug.

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So, uh, we put a tube in it, and, uh, it was a new tire, so.

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Wow.

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And, uh, touch wood, been good ever since.

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So have there been… Like, what have been some of the highlights

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of this, this bike trip itself?

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Have there been anything, any, any, like… What's, what's stood out in

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terms of even e- either experiences or places or whatever it is?

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Any, uh, any takeaways?

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Yeah.

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Alaska scenery is stunning.

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Um, you get a, a north, uh, what was it?

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British Columbia.

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Mm-hmm.

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A lot of river riding.

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You're, you know, the road is alongside a river.

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That's always beautiful.

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Right.

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The ride down from North America, which is, uh, the one they race, just so varied.

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I w- I don't know what I anticipated for that ride, but

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it just changed within the day.

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So, you know, it's the sort of thing when you're riding, you're looking for.

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You don't want- Unfortunately, like a bit of Northern Australia or then

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there's a stretch in Argentina heading south, which is, um, the Pampas.

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It's just the same hour after hour, day after day.

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Right, right.

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So, um, you know, if y- if you get the variety, uh, Baja was fantastic in Mexico.

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Mexico itself was, um, a great surprise.

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I really didn't know what to expect there.

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Central America have been, uh, El Salvador had fantastic friendly people.

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Um, there were wonderful beaches obviously through there.

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Colombia was a treat.

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Ecuador, um, again, lovely people.

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Peru is just stunning.

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I came up through a gorge the other day.

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Wow.

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Uh, hadn't expected it.

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I came down the gorge as the opposite side on a different river, and I

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thought that was absolutely amazing.

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And then I think the reason that it was so slow coming back up the gorge was r-

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stopping so often to take the, um, photos.

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Right, right, right.

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Amazing.

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Have there been any, um…

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I mean, have people been generally nice as, that you've met?

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Have there, has there been any animosity or is it generally mostly like just super

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friendly curious people that you've met?

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I think that's one of the absolute advantages, Jef, with

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the, um, riding with a bicycle.

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For some reason you're just more approachable.

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I think you're less of a threat- Right … or whatever.

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Right.

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I don't, you know, I th- I don't know what it is.

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Um, people are more curious.

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You're also in more remote places.

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I generally find if you're out in the countryside of pretty much

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any country, people are wonderful.

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That makes sense.

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It's the city, you know.

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Yeah.

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It's the cities where people are condensed.

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Mm-hmm.

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There's, uh, a lot more, uh, alcohol and drug, um, in the cities, more traffic.

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Um, people are stressed.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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And people are looking for variety out in the country and, you know, some strange

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British guy comes biking down the street.

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Yeah.

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Especially some of it's like, "What on earth are you doing here?"

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Right.

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Right, right.

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Um, the other bit is, is being English, the ability to, um, or push yourself

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to learn a foreign language is, um, unfortunately, uh, a little lacking.

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When you meet other Europeans or whomever, uh, that speak two or three languages,

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it does, um, make you feel a bit humble.

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Yeah.

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How's the Spanish going?

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Is it coming along well, Gary?

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That was timely.

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Um, I'm comfortable enough, um, that I can sort of get by.

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People understand, um, that, uh, you know, you only speak poco español.

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Si.

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Si.

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Si.

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The, um, uh… But, uh, it was, uh, evident when I, um, uh, ordered the,

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um, breakfast the other day, and, uh, all I heard was, uh, fritter.

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And up until then I'd had chicken fritters, so I thought

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this, yeah, for breakfast.

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And, uh, I ended up with quarter of a, um, fried guinea pig.

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And I was like, "Yeah." Right.

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But they eat a lot of guinea pig down there.

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They love guinea pig.

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Yeah, they love it.

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Love it.

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Did you try it?

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How was it?

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Yeah.

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Well, I had to.

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It was, uh, basically what I ordered that breakfast.

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Yeah, there's not a lot of meat on it- Right

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surprisingly.

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Right, right.

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I think, um, probably they're much the same as trying to eat a parrot.

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Um, but, uh, they, uh, yeah, it's funny.

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I mean, it's ironic they call it a, it's ironic they call it a pig because

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there's really not a lot of meat on there.

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There's not a lot.

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I couldn't find much at all.

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I ended up eating the skin, I think it was.

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But, um, yeah, they sell… They obviously eat guinea pig, but they sell rabbits.

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So, um, yeah- Huh … I find it quite unusual.

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Was, was it good?

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Uh, no.

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Fortunately, it came with swede.

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So, uh, yeah.

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All right.

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Most of it ended up on the, um, side dish.

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Right.

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So no guinea pig.

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I mean, for breakfast that seems a little bit much.

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I mean- Yeah.

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I didn't- … for any, any meal really, but breakfast it's a lot.

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Yeah.

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Well, that's what I was thinking.

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I didn't think I could go too wrong with a breakfast, but then all of a

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sudden I'm like, yeah, you need to, um, you need to start thinking about it.

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But, um, yeah.

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There's, you know, there's been other soups and things that you get, um, uh,

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kidneys or, um, some liver in there.

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Uh, you're basically gonna- Have to consume some offal

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somewhere along the line Yeah.

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And a lot of time it's not bad.

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Like, honestly, like they've been cooking it like that for so long that they're

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able to make it into some… Like when I lived in Korea, I had a lot of stuff

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I didn't even know what I was eating.

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And, uh, but it was good.

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I made… Sometimes I just don't even, didn't even wanna know what I

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was eating because, like, it's better not to know that you're eating, you

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know, whatever brains or whatever.

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Um- But it was good.

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But that was exactly the process, innit?

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That's it.

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That's it.

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Right.

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It is.

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It's, uh… And you see others that are eating it, you think,

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um, basically sometimes it's like, well, don't even chew it.

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You basically it's, um, it's gonna be what your main meal is today.

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You're gonna, um, you get it down.

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Right.

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Right, right.

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When in Rome, as it, as it were.

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Have there been any profound, um, issues that you've had, like aside

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from the, the flat tires and so forth and, and I don't know, have

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there been any like, like issues of getting caught camping somewhere?

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Whatever it is, you know, um, on this trip or any other trip really.

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No.

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No.

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I think, um, I'd anticipated a few more border issues.

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Right.

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Um, y- you know, which is in the back of your mind, but that's probably

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'cause you've l- read too much, um, news or you've listened to too many-

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Sure … people's opinions that haven't actually been through there.

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Mm-hmm.

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The only time that I've ever really had an issue with camping, uh, was when I was

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walking around the south coast of England.

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There was one guy walking a dog that moved me on.

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Oh.

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Uh, other than that, anywhere else in the world has been fine.

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It's interesting though, once you get… Like my, I was struck by how much I liked

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Mexico City particularly, and Mexico in general, and it was surprising as

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an American going there because like the media, and I'm sure in the UK too,

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the media just tells you this is a terrifying place, uh, full of d- drug

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cartels and all these kind of things.

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Yeah.

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And certainly there are those things there.

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But I found it to be one of the friendliest countries

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that I've been to in my life.

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And, uh, the people were just… I never felt any real meanness by anybody.

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And when I tell people this, when I, when I got back and I tell people this, they're

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still skeptical 'cause the media- Yeah

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all they tell you is how terrible, you know, uh, border problems,

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blah, blah, blah, blah, blah.

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It's like they wanna divide us, Gary.

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It's like they want us to hate each other.

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It's weird.

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Or fear each other or something, you know?

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Oh, totally.

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Totally.

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There's a, there's definitely an agenda with the, uh, with the news.

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Yeah.

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Um- Yeah.

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But like you say, I was coming in and, and definitely borders and/or

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for some reason train stations, you know, they can be a bit sketchy.

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But, um- Yes, for sure I, uh, did get warned a couple of times,

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um, as I was leaving, uh, America to be careful certainly in

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around, uh, some parts of Mexico.

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Sure thing.

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Got it.

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Yeah.

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Um, y- and, um, you know, it does, um, raise the concern.

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Uh, and then you're just absolutely mystified where it comes from

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when you actually get there.

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You think these people are going out their way to look after me.

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Right.

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It's almost- Sure … it reminds me of, like, the drug war when I was a kid.

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They would just say, "Say no to drugs."

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Ronald Reagan would say, "Say no to drugs." Like, all the drugs.

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So as soon as you ended up, you grew up under that, and you smoke a

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little weed, and you're like, "Oh, I'm fine." Then you're like, "Oh,

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maybe this is all bullshit." Yeah.

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Yeah.

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It's a great metaphor.

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And before you know it.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Then you're on, then you're, then you're shooting up heroin before

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you know it, and then, yeah.

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That's it.

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That's it.

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Um, which is all we did in Mexico City, me and you.

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Boy, those were the times, weren't they, Gary?

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All that, all that amazing Mexican heroin we shoveled- Yeah.

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Well, the thing is that you- … down my … yeah.

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I'm not sure we actually were on a balloon.

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It just felt like it.

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And yeah, it was, um, best, fair.

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You know, Mexico was a fantastic place with lovely people.

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I, I would go back there and, and ride a different route, see more of it.

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It was fantastic.

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Yeah.

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I wanna see more.

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I'm go- actually going back to Mexico City in, at the beginning

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of December, um, for a week.

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Oh, nice one.

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I'm excited about that one.

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Yep.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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So you said the initial reason for the trip was not really to bike around

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the world, it was just to, to travel around the world, was the initial idea,

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and you just kind of fell into biking as a, as a result of experimentation?

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Yeah, absolutely, Jef.

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It was ba- I'd done a lot of, um… I travel with my work and I also

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done a lot of, um, traveling anyway.

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Um, I'd done the backpacking thing.

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Uh, I'd done various other, you know, ways of getting around.

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Uh, and I was not, I was a, I was a bit older than I wanted to be if I was

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gonna be in a bus doing the backpacking.

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Sure.

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So, um- Yeah, yeah, yeah … you know, I thought, "Oh, it's the motorbike option."

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Um, and then I really did think, uh, it's a broken leg at best, uh- Right

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for me on a motorbike.

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Right.

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So, uh, I looked at, um, my ne- next, um, off period when I was, uh, f- three

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weeks on, three weeks off, I think it was.

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S- uh, well, I mean, four weeks on, four weeks off.

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Right.

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And, um, I looked at doing something with Burma, um, Myanmar, that had pretty

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much just sort of opened up since, um, before it was, uh, quite restricted- Yeah

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and, uh, still under military control, I think.

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Yeah.

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And I'd sort of mentally avoided it rather than, you know, dipping my toe in it.

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But this, it, it opened up and, uh, I looked at, um, a mountain

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bike, uh, tour for two weeks, and it was just s- so expensive.

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I just thought, "This is, this is crazy." They had the route, the itinerary on

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the website, and, uh, I just looked at, um, how to get a bike to, um, Bangkok.

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And then it was like, "Why not just buy a fold-up one in Bangkok, fly it into,

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um, Yangon, and, uh, ride to Mandalay?" And, uh, yeah, it was way… You know,

Speaker:

obviously it looks like a clown bike.

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Sure, sure.

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You've got, um, 18-inch wheels.

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Yeah.

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Kids loved it.

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I'd actually like to see you riding that, actually.

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I think it'd be funny.

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Yeah.

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But it's a shame.

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But so did the kids.

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Yeah.

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So did the kids.

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I spent the first, um, 12 hours riding it one-handed just waving

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at these kids running alongside.

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You should've gotten a horn.

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One, like, one of those, "Ah, ah, ah." Yeah.

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I should have had the red nose and the shoes.

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Right, red nose and everything, right.

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Uh, throwing out candies.

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Yeah, yeah.

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But, um- Yeah, yeah.

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Next time.

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Yeah.

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I w- yeah.

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Square wheels maybe.

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Yeah.

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Uh-huh.

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Uh-huh.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Then, um- Yeah, yeah.

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I'll videotape that.

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I'll come out with a video camera for that one, Gary.

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I promise.

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Yeah.

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Yeah, yeah.

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We'll do a couple of weeks for that.

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Yep.

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So, uh, yeah.

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And then was convinced.

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And then basically, yeah, did a little bit of research on getting

Speaker:

a bike, uh, some of the gear.

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And, um, yeah, basically my contract came to an end.

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Uh, I chose not to extend it and then basically flew into Ushuaia

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and rode up to Peru in the opposite direction from what I'm doing now.

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And you were like, "Yeah, this works.

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I like this." Yeah. It was, it was definitely doable. And then, like I say,

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within that first six months, I'm like, "Yeah, I don't need to s- " And basically

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I stopped, um, looking for new contracts.

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It just basically, I was still getting offers coming in, and it just sort of

Speaker:

like, I just dwindled away from it.

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And then all of a sudden it was like, "Actually, do I really

Speaker:

need to, um- Go back And you were working on the oil rigs, right?

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I was.

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I loved it I loved it.

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I liked the, um, fly in, fly out.

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I liked the remoteness.

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There was an element of, you know, everyone on there, there's no

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dead wood- Right … basically.

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Um, every, every bed is taken by a person that is productive.

Speaker:

Right.

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Um, you obviously got the politics involved here and

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there, but I was contracting and brought in to fix problems.

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So as long as I was diplomatic, things worked for me.

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And how did that work, where you were… You said, what?

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Four months on, four months off or something like that?

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Or how did that work?

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How long- No.

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No, four weeks- Four weeks … or Jef.

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Four weeks on.

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Four weeks, right.

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They, they, they extend it basically so that there's m- so

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that there's less cost for the flights and there's less logistics.

Speaker:

If you're domestic, i.e., if you were working in Ameri- America

Speaker:

and Gulf of Mexico or the, um, British, um, North Sea, uh, you're,

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you're two weeks on, two weeks off.

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Um- Right … in N- in Norway they push it the other way.

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You've got two weeks on, three weeks off, but, um, Norway's a

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bit of an exceptional country.

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Um, yeah, and I loved it.

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It was, um… I liked production.

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It felt as if you were getting stuff done.

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You could see the results.

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Yeah, and, um, you know, I was on a good run.

Speaker:

So they would, like, have to helicopter you out probably, I would imagine.

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Yeah, I was flying in from Southeast Asia- Right … connecting in Dubai.

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Um, and then going over to…

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My last role was in Brazil, which was excellent 'cause the Brazilians were

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really friendly, really good, um, setup.

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So it's mostly Brazilians on the, on the oil rig.

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Depending on which sector.

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You know, in the Nor- in Nigeria it was Nigerians mostly.

Speaker:

Sure.

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Um, with… You get a f- sprinkling of expats.

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For the Brazilian one it was a Chevron, um, uh, platform.

Speaker:

Huh.

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So you also had, um, uh, Americans in the more senior roles basically to,

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uh, ensure that Chevron procedures and safety standards- Right.

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Right … are, um, maintained.

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Right.

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Yeah.

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And then you would get to the closest point, which, um,

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for me was, um, uh, Victoria.

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Uh, and then you would, you would do the last hour and a half in the helicopter.

Speaker:

Wow.

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Yeah.

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And when, when, when you say about the helicopter there, Jef, sorry about that.

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No.

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When you say about the helicopter- Yeah, yeah, yeah … the, um, the, um…

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There was, um… Where was he from?

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He was, he was American, but I can't remember exactly where he was from,

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and I did, um… He was retiring.

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He'd, uh, served his whole time I think with Chevron, so it was

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quite the, uh, retirement package.

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But, um, uh, and I, I, you know, spoke to him and wished him all the best.

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And just all I said was, "You, you know, you're gonna be going traveling.

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Is there any of the… You know, Japan or what, you know, whatever do

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you want to see or that?" He said, "Gary," basically he said, "I've run

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my statistics and my percentages."

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He said, "For all the hours I have flown, I should have crashed something." You

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know, I should have ditched a helicopter.

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Right.

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I should have done something.

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So he was going back to his farm, and that was, that was his retirement.

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Don't push your luck, yeah.

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Um, yeah.

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I had, um, maintenance guys I've… in, um, Nigeria that had- been kidnapped, um,

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other people that have been in helicopters that have basically Ditched- Wow

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as they call it.

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Wow.

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Yeah.

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And one of the things when you do the offshore survival course is,

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um, it, uh, basically highlights, um, how real it's gonna get.

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It's not gonna go down on a nice sunny day.

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It's gonna go down in the dark on a really bad weather.

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Uh, the sea's gonna be ferocious.

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You'll be lucky to get out with the helicopter because there'd be so

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much panic or, um, a non-s- couple of non-swimmers in there or something.

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Uh, then you've gotta get to a life raft that's obviously gonna try

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to blow away from the helicopter.

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You've gotta cut yourself, um, free from the helicopter and not get

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dragged down, and then you've only got X amount of, uh, time and exposure.

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S- for the North Sea, if you don't zip up your, um, exposure suit,

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which is almost like a dry suit- Yeah

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uh, you got about three minutes, and if it's zipped up,

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I think you got three hours.

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Yeah, no, no thanks.

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I'm good.

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I'm good.

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I saw Titanic, and I was … I'm all right with it.

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I don't need to do that.

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Um, and how many people were on these rigs at the same time?

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How many … Well, how big were the crew for these things?

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Depends on the degree of, um, production or processing that

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needs to be done with the, um, oil that's coming up out the ground.

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Right.

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Some places like North Sea, it comes up pretty good, so you, you … But

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there's some massive, um, um, ones in the Norwegian sector there.

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Like how many?

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People?

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Yeah.

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On the platforms?

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Yeah.

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Uh, typically, um, you know, 50.

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Oh.

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Uh, you're not gonna get … The thing is, is, you know, when you're designing it,

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you're not gonna … You, you … These numbers will be all calculated, uh, 'cause

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of the weight and, um, you know, just the, uh, physical putting it together- Right.

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Right, right … um, be- be- you know, before you take it out wherever it is.

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So yeah, it … You know, they got, they got turbines on there.

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There's, you know, they could power a small s- town or s- you know.

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Right.

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Right.

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But, uh, yeah.

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Yeah.

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It was g- yeah, really interesting.

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Really g- you've got all … You know, you've got diversity from, um, uh, the

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electrical, uh, the instrumentation, the process guys, the maintenance guys.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Safety.

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You know.

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Do- Cooks.

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Everything … do they, uh … Do these things move at all, or do

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they, are they pretty static?

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Do they, do they sway in the, in the water?

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Depends how far off shore you are.

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Oh, all right.

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So if you're in, like, rougher waters, it's gonna … It's g- you're gonna

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feel a little bit- Well, the technology, mainly by the, um, Americans in Texas,

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um, uh, started on shore, uh, where they developed all the, um, drilling- Right

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and, um, let's say knowledge of it all.

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Uh, and then as they realized that there was some just in the shore, uh, they moved

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slightly offshore, and then as technology sort of developed, they've moved

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further and further away from the shore.

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Um, so they are basically either anchored, uh, a semi-mo- mo-

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submersible or, um, chained down.

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You know, there's others now that they use, uh- Converted oil tankers really.

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So the whole production, um, facilities gets put on the oil tanker.

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Uh, they call them floating production, uh, units, which, um, you know, they

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obviously bob up and down in the sea and then, um, they got some storage

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and then another oil tanker will come along however often, depending

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on how high the production rates are, um, and offload, and then the

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cycle will just continue And you're

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Like, when you're on one of these things, you're in the middle of nowhere

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in the ocean, generally speaking.

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So you just look around and it's just water as far as the eye can see.

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Beautiful.

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Absolutely stunning.

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The stars must've been un- must've been incredible.

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It's just gorgeous.

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Yeah.

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It's just gorgeous.

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There's some days where you get … Like, for the North Sea, there was some days

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where the, the, the water will just be absolutely mirrored, flat calm.

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Oh, wow.

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Wow.

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Yeah, blissful.

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You see the sun come up.

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You might see some other, um, flares, uh, where they flare off some of

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the excess gas, in the distance.

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Um, and then another day, that sea will just be violent, and it's

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just like, "I'm not on something big enough to be out here."

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Right.

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Right, right.

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Um, so it is, uh, quite daunting sometimes.

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But yeah, you know, the beauty … It was … Yeah, this … You, you're up at

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sort of 5:00 or something in the morning, and you see the sun break through,

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and it's just like, "Yeah, this is…" You wouldn't wanna be anywhere else.

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But then you are there to work, you know.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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You know, there's not a lot of, uh, social life with it.

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Right.

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So were there ever any, like, incidents on one of these rigs that was, like, uh,

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uh, uh, dangerous or sketchy in any way?

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Were you ever in any danger?

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I will say the Norwegian one was, uh … Not, sorry, not the Norwegian one.

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The, uh, Nigerian- Uh-huh

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one was, was a little bit sketchy.

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We were on a platform that was designed for something else.

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Um, it wasn't particularly sized accordingly.

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Uh, and it was meant to degas, which we don't do in most Western

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areas, um, prior to it going to a secondary or main facility.

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Okay.

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Um, and, uh, it had, um, what can be best described as sort of like

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rubber pipework, uh, connecting between the two, um, platforms.

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Right.

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And, uh, one of the, um, flexible hoses basically blew out three days before I

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was due to go, and it just basically shook the, um, whole platform from side to side.

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You've got gas released at sort of 70 bar, a lot of it.

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You've still got the flare going.

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Uh, people were running.

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They were all on the heli deck.

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And fortunately, one of the, um, local, uh, supervisors … It

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wasn't the supervisor.

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I think it was the lead operator, uh, decided on his own to

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go back to the control room.

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Maybe he should've, um, hit it beforehand, or the supervisor.

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Any- whoever should've … Uh, and then, um, yeah, shut the,

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um, downsea safety valves off.

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But yeah, that was, um, that could have been a, um, a major incident.

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Well, at least you weren't there at the time, so that's…

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dodged a bullet on that one.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Um, so, and it pays quite well, as I think you said, the, the oil rig work, as I

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imagine- Yeah … it would pay quite well, 'cause it's somewhat dangerous and, you

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know, remote and all that kind of thing.

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Hard to have a relationship when you're on an oil rig, you know?

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Relationship's a classic one.

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You… It's, it's, um, unnatural really because you, you're used to

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nine to fives, only spending weekends and a few hours in the evening.

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These ones you've got no contact and then full contact for the two,

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three, four weeks, whatever it is.

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So yeah, it's quite a, quite an odd one because the other partner

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obviously forms a, a lifestyle, um, whilst you're away working and

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whichever way round it, um- Right.

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Right … And with the, with the money, the money is good,

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the, you know, it's factored in.

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But one of the main things is for half of the year you're in the middle

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of the ocean, you can't spend it.

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Right.

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So you're saving money.

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Right.

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Right.

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Exactly.

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Exactly.

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That's the thing that sort of, um, gets, uh, missed out of the equation.

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It's not like you come back with a whole briefcase full of cash.

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Um- Right.

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Right.

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It's just that you're not spending it.

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Yeah.

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Exactly.

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Exactly.

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Huh.

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The, the other unfortunate thing is, is, um, if, you know, when,

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when younger people get the, get…

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The, the money gets blown thinking, oh, there's fast cars and lots

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of lifestyle and whatever else.

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Right.

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Right.

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Um, so, you know, they can rather than saving it, invest in it or whatever it

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is, uh, you see quite older gentlemen still out there, um, with, with a

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couple of divorces and whatever else.

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And, uh, you know, really they should have done their time

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and no longer be exposed to it.

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Right.

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But you got out because you didn't make these mistakes.

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Or you were, you were able to get out Yeah Yeah, yeah.

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Yes.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Yeah.

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Um, so how long did you work?

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How many years did you work on these things?

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Uh, I worked up till I was, uh, 45.

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And you started when you were…?

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When I left, uh, university, so that would've been 23, I think.

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Wow.

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I didn't go straight, I didn't go straight into the offshore, to be honest.

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I, um, uh, I had no network or family connections.

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Uh, I wasn't from the, um, local oil or gas areas.

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Right.

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Uh, my first job was in, um… What was it?

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It was a, a coatings industry, which, uh, photoresist, and then, uh, I took a shift

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manager's role in an edible oils refinery in, um, uh, the Isle of Dogs in London.

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Huh, and so then you worked in the oil rigs for 20, 25 years or so.

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Uh, tw- 20 years sounds like about, give or take.

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Yeah.

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Yeah, give or take.

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Yeah.

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Give or take.

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Yeah.

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And then was that the place that you kind of traveling around the world doing

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this, was this where you got kind of the wanderlust that you're now ex- you,

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you know, you're now exploring it now?

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Um, I, I might have had it a little bit before, 'cause I did, um… I

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came out of the job from the Isle of Dogs, Jef, and then did go traveling.

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All right, so it's always been a thing.

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All right.

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Yeah.

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I did, I did the whole, um, um, year out, well, a little bit later.

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I obviously had to pay off my, um, student loans and, um,

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get some money together- Right

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which is what I did in those, with those first couple of jobs.

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Sure, sure, sure.

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And then, um, yeah, went, um, where did we start?

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Mainly started in India, I suppose, and then Southeast Asia, and then

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down through to Australia, which is a pretty common route for Europeans.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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And then, um, yeah, came back and was fortunate enough because

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I got the job through the Institute of Chemical Engineers.

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Um, I got back in touch with them when I got back to the UK, and they were like,

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"Well, you did, um, well with the, uh, uh, Isle of Dogs shift manager's role.

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How about, are you still interested in going offshore?" I was like,

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"Yes." And that was my in.

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Oh.

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So I was, I was a bit fortunate.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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So where do you think that this desire to see the world comes from?

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Like, is it just a thing that… Do… Is, like, your family or anybody, anybody in

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your life that influenced you to do this?

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Like, for myself, it was kinda my sister started traveling after she

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was in or whilst she was in college and kinda got me wanting to do it.

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Um, but I don't know.

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I mean, how did it happen for you?

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Was it just something that you were like, "I wanna see the world"?

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Uh, yeah, I think, uh, to be honest, I traveled with a mate from university, Tim.

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Right.

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And, um, he, he got in touch with me whilst I was basically still,

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you know, working in London.

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I, you know, hadn't really thought, rethought of it.

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And he j- he said that, that he was getting a little bit, uh, over the job

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he was in, and he said, "Do you still think about, um, going round the world?"

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I'm like, "Well, yeah, absolutely." Uh, he said, "Well," he said, "I'm ready to

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jack it , you know- Right … imminently." I said, "Well, you're gonna have to

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give us a couple of months to, um, get a little bit organized and to say my

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goodbyes." But, um, yeah, no, obviously, so at university he was aware and I

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was aware that I wanted to travel.

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We didn't do a lot of holidays as, um, as a family.

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Um, mainly we, you know, let's just say we didn't have, um,

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the, the spare cash for it.

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Right.

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But, um, you know, my grandad did travel, but we didn't know… Well,

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he basically was gonna leave and go to Australia, uh, and then New

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Zealand, and then he came back.

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He left, I think, when he was 16, so it was quite bold for a back,

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um, back at the turn of- For sure

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the century.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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Um, uh, he was working in, um, coal mines in New Zealand.

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Oh, wow.

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Yeah.

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And, uh, was on better money there than he was when he came back to the UK.

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Right.

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And he only came back because he had to settle his estate with,

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um, or w- what… Well, basically, I think his dad was dying.

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Wow.

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So, um- Right

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and then he met my grandmother when, um, he came back.

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So that was, that's where that changed.

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Hm.

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But maybe it did trigger something, but, uh, I, I just,

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there's a lot to see out there.

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Yeah, there is.

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And it's interesting that some people, I mean, in my perspective is the

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United States, but it seems like some people do very much wanna travel.

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Not a ton of people, in my experience, and some people just don't have

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any interest in seeing the world.

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And I just don't really understand why you wouldn't wanna see

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other places in the world.

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But then again, some people, I think a lot of it comes out of maybe fear, you know?

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I mean, or, you know, getting out of your comfort zone, all these kind of things.

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But, uh, uh, but yeah.

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I do agree with you there, Jef.

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The bit, the bit where I don't understand why you wouldn't wanna see it.

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Right.

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Right.

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Um, and a lot, a lot of people don't.

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I th- There, there's also the bit, um, you know, 'cause I have to think, um, why.

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Um, I think people get used to their home life- Yeah, they nest

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and the c- Yeah … and they nest.

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They do, and they get comfortable with what they know, and are comfortable

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with two-week holiday, wherever it is.

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Yeah.

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Um, you know, they save up and do that.

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Mm-hmm.

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And then the, that, and then they're back into whatever else.

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I suppose they get, um, you know, a structured… I think it's

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different as well, uh, with children.

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If you've got children- Oh, for sure.

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For sure, yeah … you know.

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Yeah.

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I th- I think, um, especially if that happens early on, then you sort of

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realize, your, your focus shifts, and then I think that's possibly

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where the, um, travel round the world bit, um, gets put on the, um, shelf.

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I also think that it's also, you know, fear of the unknown as well, and

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also a fear of perhaps being, like, confronted with a reality that you've

Speaker:

dec- you've already decided that, whatever, Mexico's a dangerous place.

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So if you went there and found out otherwise, your, your, your reality would

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be, you know, somehow shattered in a way.

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I don't know.

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Well, I, I think, I think what, what happens there, they, they

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choose safer destinations.

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Yeah, they go to the beach resorts- They- And yeah, yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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We're in Mexico, but really you're just in, like, a, an American resort

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in Mexico or whatever the hell.

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There's stuff like Cancun.

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I hear that is basically the, uh, you, you get more trouble there, even though

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it's the popular tourist thing than- Right … than you do o- other areas.

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Right.

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So- Right … you know, they, what they, what they perceive as the, uh, safer

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option is the, uh, more dangerous option.

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Well, I think the cartels probably spend a lot of time there because they

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can sell the drugs to the tourists and all that kind of thing, but who knows?

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I don't know.

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Anyway, is there a place you've been in the world, Gary, that is like a highlight

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where you're like, "Oh, that was…" Or one of the, uh, not, maybe not number one.

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I know it's hard to do number one, but what's like one of the favorite places

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that you've been to in the whole world?

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Do you know, Jef, that's one of the, um, that's one of the most frequently

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asked questions really- Oh, well

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when you're cycling round and- Yeah … you know I'm sure,

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yeah … uh, and, um, I generally say the last country that I've been in.

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I name that because the, the memory's the freshest.

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Uh, you can list off stuff and various other things.

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But to answer your question, Japan was Uh, amazing Yeah For me m- mostly because

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it was totally, uh, so m- so varied.

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My perception I think was just it was gonna be massive Tokyo.

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And then I got there, and it's, um, 99% Japanese.

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So you get the full- Yeah … um, Japanese experience.

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Very, very homogenous.

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Yeah, yeah.

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You know?

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Um, lovely, polite, safe, interesting.

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Um, uh, I like the cultural, um, difference to what we're used to.

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Um, Nep- the other one there is Nepal.

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You've got the Himalayas, which are unlike anything else.

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Sure.

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Stunning.

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Uh, you've got the Buddhist … It's a bit like India, but it's,

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um, without the hassle.

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Right.

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So Nepal is- Yeah … it's up there.

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Uh, Southeast Asia's cool again.

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Yeah.

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Mainly culturally, lovely people.

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Um, safe.

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The Buddhist influence is always good.

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There are … You know, I th- I think there's really special places.

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I don't think I've, um … There's many that you go to and, um,

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come away, uh, disappointed.

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You know- Right … India is just so extreme.

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I don't think you can come away with India without having some perception.

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Mm-hmm.

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Love it or hate it.

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Yeah.

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I don't know that I could do India.

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I've heard so many stories about just, uh, all of the, uh, the touts and so forth.

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I don't know that I could.

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But, uh, who knows?

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Personal space in India, Jef, basically, you know, it's, uh,

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there's 1.4 billion- Yeah … Indians.

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Yeah.

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And, uh, it's not the biggest of countries.

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Yeah.

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And, uh, personal space is not something they, um, uh, highly

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regard, which obviously- Oh, yeah, I

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Yeah.

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I experienced that in South Korea.

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It was, it w- the personal space is not even a thing.

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It was crazy.

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Um- Not even a thing.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Yeah.

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And men holding hands- Yeah … which was weird.

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There was a, uh- … men are hold- men, men holding- That's

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an Indian thing as well.

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Yeah, yeah.

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And one of my, one of my teachers at one point, we were just walking down the

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street after having, like, an introductory meeting, and he tries to hold my hand.

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And I'm like, "Yeah, yeah.

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No, no.

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I'm okay.

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I'm okay." Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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We don't, we don't do this.

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We don't do this.

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Yeah.

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We don't, we don't do that.

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No.

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I mean, I'm all for trying to, you know, integrate myself into the

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culture, but I'm not gonna, uh- I felt like drawing the line … hold a

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man's, hold a middle-aged man's hand.

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Get holded.

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Yeah.

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Um- Yeah … yeah, yeah, yeah.

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Uh, is there anywhere that you are still wanting to go?

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Is there … What's next on the list?

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I was gonna, um, get down to Bushfire, and if I had the timing right on

Speaker:

the seasons- Get down to where?

Speaker:

… uh, I was Uh, the southern tip of, uh, um, Argentina Okay It's just south of, uh,

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the Patagonian region Right It may even be in the very, um, yeah, Ushuaia it's

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spelled, um- Okay I'm not gonna try and spell it Yeah, it's okay Um, y- uh, and

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I was gonna come back up, but, um, yeah, I will be going back to the, uh, the UK

Speaker:

and sorting out a few things that have popped up, and I've suppose I've saved

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Europe because it's close, and I hopefully can do that at any point unless they,

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um, change- That seems, that seems easy.

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Yeah.

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Yeah, that seems like an easy one- Yeah … at this point, yeah.

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So, um, I, you know, I was gonna probably try to get back up to sort of like Mexico-

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Yeah … um, for the, uh, so I was gonna try to, um, see a lot more of this area.

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Um, but circumstances have sort of, uh- limited that idea for now.

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So I would come back, definitely.

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Yeah, I would love to explore more of Mexico.

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The other one was I was gonna ride from, uh, Cairo to, um, Cape,

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which is also a, um, you know, pretty well-known cycle route.

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Right.

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The east of Austra- um, of Africa had always been perceived as the

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safer option- Sure … than the west.

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Yeah.

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Uh, whereas, whereas now it could be the opposite.

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You can't continuously ride through the countries on the east, so,

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um, that it, it's less appealing.

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If you, if you can ride the route straight, uh, and not have

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to worry about, um, putting it in a plane, then fair enough.

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Uh, I would probably, um, I would probably consider more China, really.

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Uh, I had a quick look in the southern bit, the Yunnan and the

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Sichuan region, uh, which I enjoyed.

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So I would, uh, consider China.

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Um- Yeah.

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Iceland.

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Do you ever wanna do Iceland?

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Because there's a ring road there, and people do that all the time.

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They do.

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They do.

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Um- Yeah, it's a beautiful country … you, the thing… Yeah.

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And, uh, the only thing is, is you s- it would be good.

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You would specifically fly in.

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Also windy, too.

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Do your route.

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Yeah, very windy though, too.

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Also windy.

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Yeah.

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You'd have to make sure you didn't get too cold.

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Yeah.

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And, uh, I would imagine rather expensive, but, um- Yeah, it's expensive … yeah,

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um, it would be good to, good to ride, but, uh, ag- probably again,

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a little later on when you, when you haven't got, or I wouldn't be able

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to designate large chunks of time.

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Right.

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If I, if, you know, it's a bit like cycling around Ireland.

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That would be great.

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Yeah, I would- But again, I can do that in the summer- Yeah … uh, from the UK.

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Yeah, I'll do that with you, Gary.

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I would love to do that.

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When I was in Ireland, like you can see- Absolutely … bike paths

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everywhere, and they're like beautiful well-paved bike paths all around

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the country, and it's just, yeah.

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Well, we'll line that up, Jef.

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We'll get that sorted out.

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Yeah, yeah, we'll have to do that.

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Yeah.

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Once I get a, once I get a job, Gary, I'll…

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Or once the podcast takes off.

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Okay, there's a few things, there's a few things we gotta sort out beforehand.

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Yeah, I need to get- But once we get- Need to get some money first

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once we get the- But, uh- Yeah … yeah, yeah, yeah.

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Yeah, once we get them, yeah.

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Once we get some, that money.

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Yeah, once we get that sorted and lined up.

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Like, the food, the food thing and the money thing figured out, then we'll

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talk about doing an Ireland- Yeah, an overseas bike trip, yeah Well, the

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other side of that one would be that it does, the weather there is kinda shit,

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so it would be a lot of like, it, you know, it does rain quite a bit, so it'd

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be a wet one It would be a wet one.

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You basically have to, have to be prepared to, um, get very

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wet, so it would be wet gear.

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Uh- Yeah … y- your camping, camping would be okay, but you'd have to get

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used to basically, um, putting on wet clothes and, um- Ugh, yeah, maybe

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not … packing- All right, I take it back … packing, packing a wet I don't,

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I don't wanna go any- Packing a wet tent

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I don't wanna go anymore.

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We'll go somewhere else, Gary.

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I don't wanna go to, I don't wanna go there.

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We'll just go back to Mexico and we'll go somewhere else Mexico.

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Yeah, yeah Go through the Baja.

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Sure.

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Down, down.

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Uh, we can get more of that sp- spectacular heroin we got in, in Mexico

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City- … and, uh, just get ripped.

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And just fly.

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Right.

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Yep.

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Right, right, right, right.

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It's easier to bike when you're on that heroin.

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That's what you always said.

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That's what I find, yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah, yeah.

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That's the thing we haven't talked about is how you are doing this

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entire trip, uh, just doing heroin the whole way, isn't that right?

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We didn't mention that- That's right

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in this episode.

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Yeah, that's right.

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No.

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Right.

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No.

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Um, which is interesting.

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It's, uh, not something I d- I don't bring up very often.

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Yeah, no, I know you don't like to talk about it.

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Um, um- But, you know, we like people to be honest on this podcast.

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So yeah, yeah.

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Um, Gary, just, I mean, functional heroin addict to a

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degree that's really impressive.

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Wow, what was the, uh, uh, um, isn't it the Rolling Stones', uh, lead guitarist

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or bassist, bass gu- Keith, um, Richards Keith Richards, yeah, who should be

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dead 80 times by this point, yeah.

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That's right.

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Yeah, you're like the biking- For his, uh- You're like the biking

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version of Keith Richards, Gary.

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And I love his dress sense.

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Yeah.

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But, um- He's, um- Yeah … always got a cigarette hanging out of

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your mouth- … a needle out of your arm, biking down the road.

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Fucking crazy.

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Um, hey, Gary doesn't do heroin while he bikes.

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Just disclaimer for anybody who th- doesn't understand- That's right.

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We better just clear it up, yeah … kind of just friendly joshing.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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Yeah.

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Uh, we did ride in an air balloon together though, so that was actually a thing.

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We definitely did that, didn't we?

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We, we weren't lying on the floor- We did, that was, uh, yeah … in, in some sort

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of, like, squat or something did- Yeah, I never thought I'd go on an air balloon.

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We- It was pretty incredible.

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That was, that was, and I, I gotta say, I think for, for a flight, it was, um, it

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was absolutely stunning going over those, um- Yeah, no … pyramids … it was, it

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was, it was one of the f- you know, you do a lot of touristy things when you go to

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places, and then some of them disappoint- Mm-hmm … and some of them are good.

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But that one- That, yeah … over- oversold.

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Except for the ride back- Totally … was the nightmare part for me.

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Oh, yes.

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But, yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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When he, when he basically dropped other people off and, uh, went out of his

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way as opposed to just sort of, like, drop- To drop us off last … yeah.

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I don't know what we did, but, uh, we did something.

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Um- Yeah.

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I think it was all the heroin you were doing in the back of the- That's right.

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And chatting to him all the time.

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Right, right, right.

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Yeah.

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Um, well, Gary, the last question, which doesn't seem appropriate based on

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our conversation about the biking, but the last question I do ask people, uh,

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at the end of the, uh, the podcast is what do you think happens when we die?

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Ah, interesting, um, change of, uh, pace there Mm-hmm.

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Well, usually the conversation's more about, you know, I mean, this has been a

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focus of your biking and all that kind of thing, so it's b- it is a very much a…

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It does feel like a 180 in this case.

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Yes, you're right.

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Okay.

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It some- sometimes there it's a little bit more philosophical, uh, philosophical.

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Yeah, that's the word.

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You got it.

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Yeah.

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You got there.

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You got there.

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Um, it's funny that.

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That's, um, that is quite an interesting, um, poignant question.

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I, up until for quite a while I was, um, to the, uh, opinion that, um, you did just

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basically run your course- Mm … and, uh, and there, there was nothing afterwards.

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However, I'm starting to find there, there possibly is a little bit more to

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your, uh, soul- Mm … and, uh, levels of energy, um, and whether or not there is a

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particular chance of, uh, reincarnation.

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So I, I, yeah, I'm undecided at the moment.

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I'm certainly not gonna say the, uh, that I'm… Mm, that does

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lead into a creator or non-creator type of- Right, right, right

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question, which does sorta sorta suggest, um, before the Big Bang there was nothing.

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How do you, um, have nothing and then everything?

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So, um- Yeah, it could well be, um- Yeah … that there is.

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Who knows?

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Who knows?

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Consciousness might live on.

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Well, that's… Yes, consciousness- Yeah … is, is, um, probably

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a better description than soul.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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It's so much easier to believe that this is it when you're,

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like, 20 years old, isn't it?

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And then as you get older it becomes- Yeah … a little harder,

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so you have to start to, yeah.

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Um- Well, I… And again- again, when we, when we've ans- when you, when you get

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there, you think, "Oh, people only think like that because they're getting closer

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to the end, and they want something else.

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Um, and they don't… They're not comfortable with the idea

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that it does just end." Right.

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But it's, it's more than that.

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Yeah, I think so too.

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You know, your thinking changes, and it's like, actually nothing doesn't quite f-

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isn't quite enough, um, of an answer.

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Could well be, because, I mean, you know, there's greater minds that do

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actually, uh, split the difference, that, um, you know, got physicists

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that do and don't believe in it, um, astrologers, whichever it is.

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So, um, yeah, um, I'm still, um, not completely convinced, whereas before I

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was quite a stringent, um, uh, atheist thinking that there is nothing else,

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and I was quite, um, you know, let's say blase about the fact that whoever

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thought there was other things, I was quite happy for them to think it.

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Sure.

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But I was thinking they're way off the mark, whereas now I'm actually

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like, I don't believe that, um, you know, which religion could

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be closest to the right truth.

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But, um, the consciousness thing is the bit that, um, I

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find most- Open-ended Yeah.

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A- and I also think, like, I, I was raised Catholic, so the, the

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only spiritual ideas I was exposed to as a child was just, like,

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Christianity and pretty much it, right?

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And, and I think as I've gotten older and as, you know, time has

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gone on, there's been much more of an exploration of what even the nature

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of consciousness is, and much more…

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Many more people meditating, and many more people doing yoga, and things

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like this, this, the New Age movement, if you wanna call it something.

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And I think that's also contributed a little bit to my, um, rethinking of my

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beliefs about what perhaps this all is or what it isn't, et cetera, et cetera.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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I, um, I, I went along to, um, what is it?

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The 10-day silent retreat- Yeah, yeah, in Koh Sam- … yeah, in Thailand.

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Yeah.

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Um, and reading around, um, the, the, the belief of, um, Buddhism, it's, you

Speaker:

know, it's solid, it's well put together.

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Um, I don't think, um, Western people adopt it particularly well.

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You can't sort of un-educate the Christian upbringing, um- Yeah

Speaker:

and try to, try to shoehorn it into the, um, the Buddhist thingy.

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I think it suits, uh, the Southeast Asian and, uh, Indian and Belize better.

Speaker:

Um- Yeah, I agree.

Speaker:

Uh, although I would say that even a little bit of Buddhism is

Speaker:

better than no Buddhism at all.

Speaker:

Absolutely.

Speaker:

If, uh, if you're gonna pick- It should be their slogan.

Speaker:

It should be their slogan.

Speaker:

Oh, that's right.

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Write their new slogan.

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Yeah.

Speaker:

A little bit of Buddhism.

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Better start producing, start producing T-shirts and, and mugs.

Speaker:

Right.

Speaker:

The, um, um… But I think if you were gonna choose one, I'd choose that

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one, if we were gonna have anything.

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For sure.

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If you could just have, if you could go carte blanche across the whole

Speaker:

world, uh, and people had the choice of nothing and/or that, that is the

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one that, uh, I think we should have.

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Right.

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I mean, Buddhism isn't really jive with capitalism either, so I feel like that's

Speaker:

kind of gon- not gonna work out too well.

Speaker:

Although Jesus, like, wasn't big on money either, but they've kind of forgotten

Speaker:

about that part of the Bible, I guess.

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Yeah, I think, um, yeah, uh, basically I think they emphasize on materialism- Yeah

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is the, um, root.

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So, you know- Yeah, they really do … which is materialism is the one

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that is a progression of capitalism.

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It's moving into greed.

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Right.

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So- Right … i- if you could, if you could moderate a form of

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capitalism, I think you could probably have them working symbiotically.

Speaker:

I don't know, but I know that I don't know, and that's all that I need to know.

Speaker:

Yeah, that works well, Jef.

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Uh, anyway, Gary, it was wonderful to hear your voice again.

Speaker:

I haven't talked to you for s- for, I don't know, it's only been

Speaker:

eight months, but, uh, we had such a good time in Mexico City.

Speaker:

You're like one of these people that I've met on my, met on my,

Speaker:

met on my travels that I'm like, "I'm gonna know Gary forever."

Speaker:

So I'm really glad- Absolutely, Jef … I'm really glad I g- I got

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a chance to cut up, to catch up.

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Ugh, my brain.

Speaker:

And yeah, thanks for sitting down and talking about this.

Speaker:

You're, uh, you- good luck on your biking.

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How long are you gonna be… When do you, when do you head out?

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Tomorrow you said?

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I will be tomorrow, yeah.

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I'll probably make, um, it's always, uh, a little bit later than you think.

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Nor- you know, when you're wrapping a tent up, you can be

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gone by 7:00 in the morning.

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Right.

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Right, right.

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When you leave, when you're leaving a comfortable, um, piece

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of accommodation- Yeah, yeah, yeah … it is closer to half 9.

Speaker:

But, um- And how far, how far are you gonna bike tomorrow do you think?

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How many, how many miles you do?

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Uh- How many kilometers or miles do you do a day?

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I used to say if you're roughly, you can, you can, um, aim for, uh,

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100K a day, uh, consistently without actually sort of blowing your legs.

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Right.

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Right.

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Um, it's a little bit different in the mountains and all the headwinds,

Speaker:

so you've got to factor that in.

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Alt and road surface, if it's, um, you know, sealed, you're, you're good as gold.

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If it's, uh, gravelly, uh, things can get a little bit harder.

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Oh, yeah, yeah.

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But, um, what I normally do for the first one is I just sort of get myself away

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from, uh, where I'm leaving- Right … and look for somewhere suitable early in the

Speaker:

afternoon, just so you got your first day and a decent camping place- Right

Speaker:

um, set up for, and then you get into your rhythm after that.

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What's the highest elevation you've been at, do you think, at this,

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uh, at this point on the trip?

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Oof.

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Uh- Like, high enough where it was, like, hard to breathe?

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Y- yeah, y- I mean, I'm not sure how high they get in North America, but it

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must have had, uh- I mean, Colombia.

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Yeah, it must have been high.

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Yeah.

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That's a ridiculous question- Yeah … 'cause some places up there are, like,

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8,000, 9,000 feet, which is, I don't know how many of your kilometers-

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Yes … that is, but, you know.

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Yeah, good 4,000 meters.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Easy.

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A- and plus, I think, I think, um, I think it pushes five and a bit, uh, at some

Speaker:

of the passes possibly across the Andes.

Speaker:

Goddamn.

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Uh, obviously the Himalayas previously, you're, you're up high.

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But for the beauty of all of that, you get the views, so.

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Yeah.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Um- And you're gonna be, you're gonna be ripped, Gary, when

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you're done with this trip.

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You're gonna be legitimately ripped.

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Well, the legs.

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The le- you end up with- Right.

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Right, right.

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The legs will be ripped- Y- disproportionate … upper body.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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That's what I said.

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Like, the- Disproportionate.

Speaker:

You end up going home looking like a frog, but, um- … yeah.

Speaker:

Little tiny little arms.

Speaker:

You end up going home like, well, those, like, Tour de France riders.

Speaker:

They all look like, you know, they have giant legs and little bitty upper bodies.

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Yeah.

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It's kind of funny.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

Speaker:

Um, well, you know, you can, you can glutton.

Speaker:

You can be a glutton when you get back to England and eat all the delicious British

Speaker:

food that your country is known for.

Speaker:

That's so well-phrased.

Speaker:

Yeah.

Speaker:

Um, like, you know, boiled potatoes- Yeah … and boiled

Speaker:

pizza and all that kind of thing.

Speaker:

Yum.

Speaker:

It's amazing, it's amazing that everyone seems to have a go at that.

Speaker:

Well, it gets good Indian food.

Speaker:

Good Indian food.

Speaker:

Yes, they do have good Indian food.

Speaker:

Yeah.

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It's funny.

Speaker:

Yeah.

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Yeah.

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All right, Gary.

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Well, wonderful talking to you.

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Thanks for doing this.

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Good luck on the ride.

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Keep me posted.

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Uh, and yeah, let's keep in touch, man.

Speaker:

I'll talk to you again soon, I hope.

Speaker:

Nice one, Jef.

Speaker:

Absolutely.

Speaker:

Keep in touch.

Speaker:

Yeah, man.

Speaker:

Love you, my friend.

Speaker:

Love you, too.

Speaker:

And that was Gary Clarke about to continue his trip south through the Peruvian

Speaker:

mountains and towards Tierra del Fuego.

Speaker:

It was great to catch up with Gary, and I hope you enjoyed that

Speaker:

conversation as much as I did.

Speaker:

And if you did enjoy this conversation, please share the podcast with someone.

Speaker:

Trying to grow a podcast takes a village.

Speaker:

And if you yourself enjoy the show, then your friends probably will too.

Speaker:

Just text them a link to onefjefpod.com, which is the

Speaker:

brand-new website for the podcast.

Speaker:

It's a bit bare bones at the moment, but it gets the job done, onefjefpod.com.

Speaker:

And if you'd like to follow Gary on his epic bike journey, you can follow

Speaker:

him on Instagram at Gary_Clarke.

Speaker:

That's Gary_Clarke, C-L-A-R-K-E.

Speaker:

And if you'd like to follow this podcast on its epic podcast journey, you can

Speaker:

follow it on Instagram at onefjefpod.

Speaker:

That's onefjefpod, one word.

Speaker:

I'm always interested in your thoughts, feedback, or suggestions,

Speaker:

which you can email to me as always at [email protected].

Speaker:

And for those of you not listening with a notepad at hand, all this information

Speaker:

will also be available in the show notes.

Speaker:

I'm going to leave you today with a short poem by the legendary Rumi,

Speaker:

which feels strangely appropriate in these strange, heartbreaking times.

Speaker:

"Out beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing, there's a field.

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I'll meet you there.

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When the soul lies down in that grass, the world is too full to talk about.

Speaker:

Ideas, language, even the phrase 'each other' doesn't make any sense."

Speaker:

Take care of yourselves, my friends.

Speaker:

I'll see you soon Very good, Jeffrey

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