Speaker:
00:00:06
You're standing on the precipice of an abyss so vast that the opposite rim looks
Speaker:
00:00:10
like another country, painted in bands of crimson, gold, and ancient limestone.
Speaker:
00:00:16
It stretches 277 miles long, plunges over a mile straight down, and exposes
Speaker:
00:00:23
nearly two billion years of Earth's crust.
Speaker:
00:00:27
For centuries, native tribes lived along its cliffs, and Spanish explorers, guided
Speaker:
00:00:32
by Hopi, stood at the rim in awe in 1540.
Speaker:
00:00:37
But the true turning point in unlocking its secrets came in 1869
Speaker:
00:00:40
when a one-armed Civil War veteran and geologist named Major John Wesley
Speaker:
00:00:44
Powell took nine men in four wooden boats straight into the violent,
Speaker:
00:00:48
uncharted rapids of the Colorado River.
Speaker:
00:00:51
Facing towering walls, dwindling rations, and roaring waters that threatened
Speaker:
00:00:55
to swallow them whole, Powell's expedition mapped the heart of the
Speaker:
00:00:58
great chasm, transforming the canyon from a blank spot on the map into a
Speaker:
00:01:02
place of legend in the American West.
Speaker:
00:01:07
Decades later, President Theodore Roosevelt stood on its edge and
Speaker:
00:01:10
declared, "You cannot improve on it. Keep it for your children
Speaker:
00:01:14
and your children's children."
Speaker:
00:01:23
Welcome to Talk with History.
Speaker:
00:01:26
One filmmaker, one historian, meeting history-inspired world
Speaker:
00:01:30
travels for the curious, the history lovers, and the explorer in us all.
Speaker:
00:01:34
I am your host, Scott, here with my wife and historian, Jenn.
Speaker:
00:01:37
Hello.
Speaker:
00:01:38
Today, we're taking another incredible detour from our
Speaker:
00:01:41
Route 66 Centennial Journey.
Speaker:
00:01:43
Driving across northern Arizona, we turn north off the mother road to
Speaker:
00:01:46
visit one of the seven natural wonders of the world, the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:01:51
As a first-time visitor, standing on the edge of the
Speaker:
00:01:53
South Rim is completely humbling.
Speaker:
00:01:56
We're taking you along the historic South Rim Trail, sharing what it's
Speaker:
00:02:01
like to see those endless rock layers in person, and keeping an eye out for
Speaker:
00:02:04
the massive California condor soaring overhead with its 10-foot wingspan.
Speaker:
00:02:09
We're also diving deep into the canyon's human history, from early
Speaker:
00:02:12
mining ventures that quickly gave way to tourism, to the Civilian
Speaker:
00:02:16
Conservation Corps efforts of the 1930s.
Speaker:
00:02:19
And of course, we're exploring the legendary expedition of John Wesley
Speaker:
00:02:22
Powell, how a one-armed combat veteran braved the rapids, mapped the gorge,
Speaker:
00:02:27
and sparked the scientific and public fascination that helped establish the
Speaker:
00:02:31
Grand Canyon National Park in 1919.
Speaker:
00:02:34
I'm Scott Bennie, so lace up your boots and watch your step.
Speaker:
00:02:38
We're exploring the rim and the river at the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:02:45
All right.
Speaker:
00:02:46
So Jenn, this was one- this was, this was not a, a Route 66 stop.
Speaker:
00:02:53
No.
Speaker:
00:02:53
Right?
Speaker:
00:02:53
You kinda have to go, you have to veer off north if you're driving through Arizona.
Speaker:
00:02:57
Yes.
Speaker:
00:02:58
And you're driving through the plateaus, and you gotta hang right, and you gotta
Speaker:
00:03:01
start heading up north to northern Arizona towards the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:03:04
Now I had been there as a kid.
Speaker:
00:03:06
It had been very, very long time for me, probably since I was maybe
Speaker:
00:03:10
10, 11, 12, somewhere around there.
Speaker:
00:03:12
Yes.
Speaker:
00:03:12
But you had never been to the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:03:14
I have never been, and you're right.
Speaker:
00:03:16
I mean, this shows Route 66 and as we're doing this Route 66 100th anniversary
Speaker:
00:03:20
on, um, Talk With History, you can see the Grand Canyon is on here.
Speaker:
00:03:26
Right.
Speaker:
00:03:26
So it is places people sometimes will veer off and see some of these natural
Speaker:
00:03:30
landmarks, and the Grand Canyon was a big one, and since we had the kids
Speaker:
00:03:33
with us, we wanted to go there, and we made a point to stay in the park.
Speaker:
00:03:38
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:03:38
We did, we, we did it up right.
Speaker:
00:03:39
You can stay outside the park.
Speaker:
00:03:40
It's just like any Yellowstone, Yosemite.
Speaker:
00:03:43
You can stay outside the park.
Speaker:
00:03:44
You can s- pay a little more and stay inside the park.
Speaker:
00:03:46
We were doing just one night, and we decided to pull the trigger and stay in
Speaker:
00:03:49
the park, and it was totally worth it.
Speaker:
00:03:52
It was worth it, and, and if you know anything about us, Scott and I used
Speaker:
00:03:55
to do a lot at Yosemite, and we always stayed in the valley 'cause we know
Speaker:
00:04:00
the difference between staying in the valley and staying outside of the park.
Speaker:
00:04:03
It's always like a good 30-minute difference, and traffic happens midday,
Speaker:
00:04:09
and so then you're just out of it.
Speaker:
00:04:10
So it's so nice to just have that easy access.
Speaker:
00:04:12
Plus, if you stay in the park, it's usually walkable.
Speaker:
00:04:15
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:04:15
So you can walk to where you wanna go, and so I made a point to look up some
Speaker:
00:04:20
lodges that were there on the South Rim.
Speaker:
00:04:22
We stayed there with the family of five.
Speaker:
00:04:25
We were able to get a cot, so it was nice.
Speaker:
00:04:27
The, the room was big enough.
Speaker:
00:04:29
We were all very comfortable.
Speaker:
00:04:30
We had like a balcony, so it was very nice for us.
Speaker:
00:04:35
Plus, in the park they always have good food options, and this, they had
Speaker:
00:04:41
a nice cafeteria right by our lodge, a great gift shop right by our lodge,
Speaker:
00:04:45
and then if you just walked a little farther, there was the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:04:49
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:04:49
So
Speaker:
00:04:49
it
Speaker:
00:04:50
was great.
Speaker:
00:04:50
It, it was very, very walkable, and I think you hit it on the head is when
Speaker:
00:04:54
you stay in the park you don't have to drive around to all the places 'cause
Speaker:
00:04:58
they have great buses that are taking you from bus stop to bus stop, right?
Speaker:
00:05:02
Some people will bring their bikes, and they'll ride their bikes around.
Speaker:
00:05:04
We do that in Yosemite all the time.
Speaker:
00:05:06
Mm-hmm.
Speaker:
00:05:06
But that was one of the huge things, and in the video you'll see, and what we can
Speaker:
00:05:10
mention it later, we won't hit on it too much, I actually went for a morning run.
Speaker:
00:05:13
I just ran from my room over to the South Rim trail and ran along
Speaker:
00:05:16
the South Rim trail, and then I realized we were at seven th- 7,000
Speaker:
00:05:19
feet of elevation, and, and I, I was huffing and puffing pretty quickly.
Speaker:
00:05:24
But it was absolutely beautiful, and so we did this- It's worth it … it was totally
Speaker:
00:05:28
worth it, to- I, I think totally worth it.
Speaker:
00:05:30
Um, we, we definitely wanna go back.
Speaker:
00:05:33
Jenn and I wanna go back and spend a week there, two weeks there.
Speaker:
00:05:36
We'd love to go down to the, you know, to the canyon floor.
Speaker:
00:05:39
We didn't get to do that this time, but we did the South Rim, and we
Speaker:
00:05:41
talked a little bit about the history and kinda learned about how it
Speaker:
00:05:44
became a national park and all that.
Speaker:
00:05:46
Yeah, and they have a really great groomed t- trail.
Speaker:
00:05:48
So if you're, it, it's very easy to walk.
Speaker:
00:05:51
You don't need trekking poles.
Speaker:
00:05:53
You really don't even need hiking boots.
Speaker:
00:05:55
You could probably do it in your sneakers.
Speaker:
00:05:57
We did it in our sneakers.
Speaker:
00:05:57
Yep.
Speaker:
00:05:58
It was very easy for the kids.
Speaker:
00:05:59
They complained a little, the youngest, but- It's
Speaker:
00:06:01
like a mile and a half
Speaker:
00:06:02
yeah, it was very easy.
Speaker:
00:06:03
And like Scott said, there's trams that pick you up and take you all over.
Speaker:
00:06:07
What was neat about this trip, and we've talked about it before, is
Speaker:
00:06:10
it was right after the World Cup, so there was so many foreign people
Speaker:
00:06:16
who were visiting the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:06:18
And we talked to people from Germany.
Speaker:
00:06:19
We could hear the different accents.
Speaker:
00:06:21
People would ask us questions to take pictures for them, and they only basically
Speaker:
00:06:24
knew, "Can you take picture?" Right?
Speaker:
00:06:26
And so we were just very, uh, welcoming, "Welcome to America,"
Speaker:
00:06:29
you know, and, and we're all in awe of the beauty of this canyon.
Speaker:
00:06:34
I had never seen it before, so walking up to it, I just
Speaker:
00:06:38
couldn't take my eyes off it.
Speaker:
00:06:40
And you probably see in the video, our kids, everybody, we just couldn't
Speaker:
00:06:44
stop looking at how beautiful and, and just massive this canyon is.
Speaker:
00:06:50
And you can see the different colors of the rock sediments along the side of
Speaker:
00:06:54
the canyon, and it is just breathtaking.
Speaker:
00:06:56
So, and as you walk, you get a different view-
Speaker:
00:07:00
Yeah
Speaker:
00:07:00
every time.
Speaker:
00:07:01
So it's, it's really neat to go and do.
Speaker:
00:07:03
Yeah, and of course they have signs all along the way, and they've got
Speaker:
00:07:05
spots where they'll kind of, they have, like, this little brass outline of the
Speaker:
00:07:10
landscape y- you see across the canyon, and it'll tell you what the names of the
Speaker:
00:07:14
different points are and stuff like that.
Speaker:
00:07:16
And it was neat because you truly are looking across to the North Rim.
Speaker:
00:07:22
You can see the other side, but if you l- if you're standing there, right,
Speaker:
00:07:26
and if you look left, you cannot see the end of the canyon itself.
Speaker:
00:07:30
As far as the eye can see, you just see the canyon going on and on and
Speaker:
00:07:34
on and on and on into the horizon.
Speaker:
00:07:36
And so that was really, really cool to, to see that kind of scale.
Speaker:
00:07:43
And it truly was a canyon.
Speaker:
00:07:44
You could see the other side, but you couldn't see the end of it.
Speaker:
00:07:46
Yeah, I mean, it covers over a million acres.
Speaker:
00:07:50
It's 1.2 million acres of, of land, and so when you really think
Speaker:
00:07:55
about how- massive this park is.
Speaker:
00:07:58
It's a huge park.
Speaker:
00:07:59
Now, most people go to the South Rim.
Speaker:
00:08:00
When you're visiting the Grand Canyon, that's where most of the visitors go.
Speaker:
00:08:04
But you can go to the North Rim.
Speaker:
00:08:06
It's just a, a lot longer to get out there from Route 66.
Speaker:
00:08:10
And know your elevation will be higher there, so you'll be looking
Speaker:
00:08:14
down, uh, to the South Rim, and down.
Speaker:
00:08:17
And it's much more wooded and, uh, not as built up as the South Rim is.
Speaker:
00:08:23
But, uh, that, you can visit both of those.
Speaker:
00:08:26
And of course, you can do tours that take you to the river
Speaker:
00:08:29
and down to the canyon floor.
Speaker:
00:08:30
We didn't do any of that, but you could see trails down there.
Speaker:
00:08:33
And from what we understand, they still don't have any motorized
Speaker:
00:08:36
vehicles to take you down to the canyon floor, but there's still mules.
Speaker:
00:08:41
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:08:41
And you can ride a mule down to the canyon floor.
Speaker:
00:08:43
We didn't get to do that, but, uh, hopefully eventually we will.
Speaker:
00:08:46
Now, this was the 15th site to be made a national park.
Speaker:
00:08:50
Mm. And like Scott said, it, it celebrated its 100th anniversary
Speaker:
00:08:53
February 26, uh, 2019, so it was in 1919 that it became a national park.
Speaker:
00:08:59
And when you talk about the history of the park, there's a lot of history
Speaker:
00:09:03
with the park being made, like how did the glacier come through,
Speaker:
00:09:08
and how did it- Yeah … make this big crack in America's landscape?
Speaker:
00:09:13
But then it's also who were the first peoples to kind of see it and to be there,
Speaker:
00:09:17
and so they celebrate, um, it became well known to Americans in the 1880s
Speaker:
00:09:21
when the railroads were able to come in and build railroads through there.
Speaker:
00:09:24
But we talk about Powell, and Powell is a Civil War veteran, and he's a man who,
Speaker:
00:09:33
uh, was very well known for discovering rivers or, uh, exploring rivers.
Speaker:
00:09:39
He, he rode the Mississippi River, he rode the Ohio River.
Speaker:
00:09:42
He took the Ohio River from Pittsburgh all the way to the Mississippi.
Speaker:
00:09:45
He took the Mississippi all the way down from Missouri all the way down
Speaker:
00:09:49
to, uh, to the, to the sea they say.
Speaker:
00:09:52
So it's not like it was his first time on a river.
Speaker:
00:09:55
So he, he was kind of like d- he's like a professional explorer almost.
Speaker:
00:09:59
Professional explorer almost.
Speaker:
00:10:00
Now, he loses his arm in Shiloh as… And we talked about, um,
Speaker:
00:10:05
we've been to Shiloh before.
Speaker:
00:10:06
Uh, he's hit with a mini ball, uh, in the arm, and he loses
Speaker:
00:10:10
his right arm below the elbow.
Speaker:
00:10:11
Yeah, he was, a- as I read it, he was a Union-
Speaker:
00:10:14
Yes
Speaker:
00:10:15
… U- U- Union officer, and what I read was like he literally was like raising
Speaker:
00:10:19
his arm to say, you know, "Fi- fire the cannons," and that's when he got hit.
Speaker:
00:10:23
Yep.
Speaker:
00:10:24
Yes.
Speaker:
00:10:25
And so he's doing all of this one-armed, which I also think
Speaker:
00:10:28
is very, uh, heroic of him.
Speaker:
00:10:31
Now, he's made, in 1881, uh, it's Garfield who will di- uh, will direct
Speaker:
00:10:37
him as the US geological surveyor.
Speaker:
00:10:39
Uh, and he holds that position for about 13 years.
Speaker:
00:10:43
Now, that's after the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:10:44
After the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:10:45
After he explores the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:10:46
But also know that it's because of his experience doing this that he's gonna
Speaker:
00:10:51
hold that position and start to do more of this for America, but when we
Speaker:
00:10:56
talk about the, uh, actual expedition.
Speaker:
00:10:58
Yeah, so let, let me talk about the actual expedi- expedition
Speaker:
00:11:01
because this was classic how we do Talk With History things.
Speaker:
00:11:04
It's like we went there, and I was like, "Um, you know, I'm sure
Speaker:
00:11:06
there's probably a podcast about the Grand Canyon." And so I Google.
Speaker:
00:11:09
You know, I go into the Apple Podcast, and I was like, you know, history of the
Speaker:
00:11:12
Grand Canyon, and I find this podcast.
Speaker:
00:11:14
I think we've talked about this before.
Speaker:
00:11:16
Uh, it was like The Adventure Podcast, and he talks, and he has one episode on the
Speaker:
00:11:21
history of the Grand Canyon, specifically about John Wes- Major John Wesley Powell.
Speaker:
00:11:25
Mm-hmm.
Speaker:
00:11:25
And so it was a really good episode, and I'll link that in, in the show
Speaker:
00:11:30
notes if you guys wanna listen to it.
Speaker:
00:11:31
But, uh, it… That kind of, that's what generated my interest in him, and
Speaker:
00:11:38
actually I think I'm gonna go back and listen to more of this podcast because a
Speaker:
00:11:40
lot of the stuff that they cover is stuff that I, that I find pretty interesting.
Speaker:
00:11:44
But John Wesley Powell, again major for the Union Army- He gets his
Speaker:
00:11:49
kind of arm shot and he has to kinda amputate it there right at, at Shiloh.
Speaker:
00:11:53
Now in 1869 is when he's doing his expedition down the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:11:59
S- so just so, just so you know, he's been in the Rocky
Speaker:
00:12:03
Mountain territory since 1867.
Speaker:
00:12:05
So, so the war's over 1865.
Speaker:
00:12:08
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:12:08
He comes in 1867.
Speaker:
00:12:09
He brings a party of 11 men and one woman, and guess who the one woman is?
Speaker:
00:12:13
His wife.
Speaker:
00:12:14
Oh, really?
Speaker:
00:12:15
So his wife comes with him, and they explore Pikes Peak.
Speaker:
00:12:17
They make an ascent to Pikes Peak.
Speaker:
00:12:19
They have further explorations, and th- they decide to stay out there.
Speaker:
00:12:22
The Powells will stay out there, and this is when he's gonna make his Colorado River
Speaker:
00:12:27
expedition.
Speaker:
00:12:27
And so he, so he and his wife, and I don't know if his wife was with him, he was
Speaker:
00:12:30
actually the first to summit Longs Peak.
Speaker:
00:12:32
Mm-hmm.
Speaker:
00:12:33
Like, the very first person.
Speaker:
00:12:34
So this is Mr. Outdoorsman guy, right?
Speaker:
00:12:39
So in, and that was in the 1860s, so he's, he's hi- he's first
Speaker:
00:12:42
one to climb Longs Peak, he ascended Pikes Peak with his wife.
Speaker:
00:12:46
Now, in May of 1869 is when he launches.
Speaker:
00:12:48
So he uses the railroad that Jenn mentioned earlier to get everything
Speaker:
00:12:51
out to, down to, uh, where they're gonna, they're gonna kick off.
Speaker:
00:12:55
And they actually kick off from Wyoming- Yep … in the Green River there.
Speaker:
00:12:58
Yep.
Speaker:
00:12:58
So setting off with nine men.
Speaker:
00:13:00
And they set off with these huge wooden boats, and these are kind of the, the kind
Speaker:
00:13:05
of boats, I forget what they called them.
Speaker:
00:13:06
Rowboats.
Speaker:
00:13:07
And but these are, these are boats that you would typically
Speaker:
00:13:09
see in, like, a sea harbor cutting through waves and stuff like that.
Speaker:
00:13:13
And his thought was, "Hey, I'm giving you these huge wooden boats with months
Speaker:
00:13:17
and months of supplies to cut through the waves." And the reality of it is, a little
Speaker:
00:13:22
foreshadowing here, he, they actually made it worse because they were so big they
Speaker:
00:13:26
couldn't navigate around rocks, right?
Speaker:
00:13:28
And if you know anything about, uh, modern-day, you know,
Speaker:
00:13:31
going down- The Colorado River
Speaker:
00:13:32
the, the, the Colorado River, it's all white water, it's all
Speaker:
00:13:35
white water rafting and all that stuff, and you have to navigate.
Speaker:
00:13:38
And again, nobody had done this.
Speaker:
00:13:39
And so the, the anecdote that they were using in this other podcast is they knew
Speaker:
00:13:43
more about the surface of the moon through just telescopes and everything than
Speaker:
00:13:46
they knew about the Grand Canyon, right?
Speaker:
00:13:48
So that, that was kind of an interesting- Can
Speaker:
00:13:49
you imagine these four boats, uh, laden with 10 men-
Speaker:
00:13:53
Yep … and food for 10 months.
Speaker:
00:13:55
10 months, and they brought, like, nails because they actually thought, John
Speaker:
00:13:59
Wesley Powell thought that the river was gonna freeze over- Mm-hmm … and they
Speaker:
00:14:03
were gonna have to, to, to hunker down for the winter, like build a log cabin.
Speaker:
00:14:06
So they brought nails and supplies for all that stuff.
Speaker:
00:14:09
So they br- obviously they were ill-prepared for this.
Speaker:
00:14:13
All right?
Speaker:
00:14:13
And the interesting thing is too is he didn't, when he hired the men for this
Speaker:
00:14:17
e- expedition, he didn't hire soldiers, which was much more normal at the time.
Speaker:
00:14:21
Mm-hmm.
Speaker:
00:14:21
He kinda went out and found these, like, rough, rough and tumble mountain men.
Speaker:
00:14:26
Hunters,
Speaker:
00:14:26
trappers.
Speaker:
00:14:26
Hunters, trappers, thinking that they could hunt and trap their
Speaker:
00:14:29
food while they were down there.
Speaker:
00:14:31
So they kick off in June, uh, in May of 1869.
Speaker:
00:14:35
In June of 1869, there's, one of the boats hits a rock, splits in
Speaker:
00:14:40
half, and destroys one third of their food, gear, and clothing.
Speaker:
00:14:44
Now they had kind of anticipated this.
Speaker:
00:14:46
They had, it, in the other podcast, it talks about how they could have
Speaker:
00:14:50
had more men in these boats, but they decided to have less 'cause they
Speaker:
00:14:53
anticipated potentially losing a boat.
Speaker:
00:14:55
So he was trying to pre-plan a little bit.
Speaker:
00:14:58
But how, you know, they're grinding away, kind of trying to get down the Colorado.
Speaker:
00:15:02
So they're gonna take the Green River till it's convolu- convoluents- Right
Speaker:
00:15:05
to the Colorado.
Speaker:
00:15:06
Right.
Speaker:
00:15:07
And so they're getting through, and obviously they're having a tough
Speaker:
00:15:09
time getting down the Colorado.
Speaker:
00:15:11
I'll, I'll, I'll keep it short because I, I really do find this interesting.
Speaker:
00:15:15
But in August, uh, it's now named Separation Rapid, right?
Speaker:
00:15:19
So they're, they're getting down, they're starting to get hungry because
Speaker:
00:15:23
they don't have enough food, they don't have the right kind of food.
Speaker:
00:15:26
They've lost a boat or two, and so they get to what's
Speaker:
00:15:28
now called Separation Rapids.
Speaker:
00:15:30
They're confronted by a monstrous rapid.
Speaker:
00:15:32
So three men had, who'd been with him the whole way, they refuse to stay
Speaker:
00:15:36
on the river, and they're like, "We, we're not doing this anymore." I think
Speaker:
00:15:39
a couple people had died already.
Speaker:
00:15:40
Yep, so Frank Goodman, uh, it's William Dunn, and Ormeil Howland, they all leave.
Speaker:
00:15:48
So when you think you only have nine men, you just lost a third.
Speaker:
00:15:51
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:15:52
And then so they, they say, "Hey, we, we're not doing this anymore.
Speaker:
00:15:55
We're practically starving. We're gonna hike up and out," and they
Speaker:
00:15:59
choose to hike 75 miles through the desert to the Mormon settlement.
Speaker:
00:16:03
Those three actually vanish.
Speaker:
00:16:04
They never, they never hear from them again, so they
Speaker:
00:16:06
probably died in the desert.
Speaker:
00:16:08
History's a mystery.
Speaker:
00:16:09
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:16:09
Who knows what you ever stumble across if you're out there hiking.
Speaker:
00:16:13
Now, the, the sad part of that story is not that they were… Well, it's
Speaker:
00:16:18
both that they were never heard from again, but then 24 hours later, John
Speaker:
00:16:22
Wesley Powell and the remainer of- remainder of his crew, 20… And within
Speaker:
00:16:26
24 hours, they were out of the Grand Canyon and at that Mormon settlement.
Speaker:
00:16:30
So had these three stuck with them for an extra 24 hours, they
Speaker:
00:16:34
would've made it all the way through.
Speaker:
00:16:35
Yes.
Speaker:
00:16:35
Now, they were- They were starved, they were wearing rags, they smelled
Speaker:
00:16:40
bad, they hadn't eaten, and they got to this Mormon settlement, and the
Speaker:
00:16:43
Mormons just kinda took care of them.
Speaker:
00:16:44
And like, they, these guys couldn't even barely talk when
Speaker:
00:16:47
they, when they first got there.
Speaker:
00:16:48
It's a lot like when we talked about Lewis and Clark.
Speaker:
00:16:51
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:16:51
When they make it to some of these, uh, Indian resid- i- Indian, uh, communities,
Speaker:
00:16:55
and they're just barely alive.
Speaker:
00:16:57
And the American Indians really could have, like, killed them-
Speaker:
00:17:00
Yeah … because they were so weak, but they didn't, they took care of them.
Speaker:
00:17:02
It's the same kinda thing.
Speaker:
00:17:04
Now, their whole, uh, travel is 930 miles.
Speaker:
00:17:08
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:17:08
Now, his wife is not with him on this.
Speaker:
00:17:10
No.
Speaker:
00:17:10
It's all men.
Speaker:
00:17:11
Yep.
Speaker:
00:17:11
Uh, and like Scott said, when you're out there and you're working as hard
Speaker:
00:17:15
as they're working, we talked about the Lewis and Clark Expedition,
Speaker:
00:17:18
and you're not able to eat fat-
Speaker:
00:17:21
Yep
Speaker:
00:17:21
… ' cause you're just eating game with no fat, you become very gaunt and skinny, and
Speaker:
00:17:27
that's what was happening to these men.
Speaker:
00:17:29
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:17:29
And, and so there's a couple interesting facts, and this was
Speaker:
00:17:32
actually interesting that I hadn't seen.
Speaker:
00:17:34
So when you're white water rafting today, right, you're facing forward, right?
Speaker:
00:17:37
I got to do white water rafting when I was a teenager with my parents.
Speaker:
00:17:39
It was super fun.
Speaker:
00:17:40
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:17:40
Right?
Speaker:
00:17:41
So you're fa- you're facing forward.
Speaker:
00:17:42
But I guess actually back then, they would actually turn around and were
Speaker:
00:17:46
kind of ro- almost rowing backwards.
Speaker:
00:17:48
Mm-hmm.
Speaker:
00:17:48
So it's just a, a different technique, right?
Speaker:
00:17:51
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:17:51
Again, they're, they're, they're navigating these massive,
Speaker:
00:17:54
uh, these massive boats.
Speaker:
00:17:56
I talked about the nails.
Speaker:
00:17:57
They were expecting to actually hunker down for quite a few months dur-
Speaker:
00:18:01
over the winter, which never happened because that, that river never freezes.
Speaker:
00:18:04
It's too, it's moves too fast.
Speaker:
00:18:06
And then we talk about Separation Rapid.
Speaker:
00:18:09
Now, the, and another interesting thing about Major John Wesley Powell, so after
Speaker:
00:18:12
all of this, he's hailed like this hero.
Speaker:
00:18:14
Mm-hmm.
Speaker:
00:18:15
But he's frustrated because he didn't get any of his maps.
Speaker:
00:18:17
Everything was ruined-
Speaker:
00:18:18
Mm-hmm
Speaker:
00:18:18
… on this first expedition.
Speaker:
00:18:19
So he actually comes back and does it again.
Speaker:
00:18:21
Yep.
Speaker:
00:18:22
So he's awarded $12,000 from Congress- Mm … to complete the Survey of
Speaker:
00:18:26
the Colorado of the West and its tributaries, and the tributaries means
Speaker:
00:18:30
any river that feeds the Colorado.
Speaker:
00:18:33
Um, and so that's when he goes back to actually survey it, and there's, uh,
Speaker:
00:18:37
three surveys, the Hayden Survey, the King Survey, and the Wheeler Survey.
Speaker:
00:18:41
Uh, but like Scott said, it really was an exploration- Right … that
Speaker:
00:18:45
first trip to kinda see it all for the first time, and then because he's
Speaker:
00:18:49
done it and he knows it now, uh, he goes back and actually surveys it.
Speaker:
00:18:54
And so I, I, I thought that was just super interesting.
Speaker:
00:18:56
And again, I will leak that, link that particular podcast episode 'cause the
Speaker:
00:19:00
host interviews someone who wrote a whole book about this expedition down the Grand
Speaker:
00:19:04
Canyon and Major John Wesley Powell.
Speaker:
00:19:06
But I, I was curious about what he did after these expeditions
Speaker:
00:19:09
because he's Mr. Ex- Explorer.
Speaker:
00:19:11
Mm-hmm.
Speaker:
00:19:12
So he actually became the director of the US Geological Survey.
Speaker:
00:19:15
Yep.
Speaker:
00:19:16
Right?
Speaker:
00:19:16
So in 1881, I think you mentioned it-
Speaker:
00:19:19
Yeah,
Speaker:
00:19:19
Garfield … he, he became the director of that.
Speaker:
00:19:21
He also became the director of the Bureau of Ethnology,
Speaker:
00:19:25
right, for S- Smithsonian stuff.
Speaker:
00:19:27
So he actually also created this report, and this is, this, I just thought that
Speaker:
00:19:32
was interesting, and I'll, I'll- You'll be, you'll, you'll understand why.
Speaker:
00:19:36
Report on the Lands of the Arid Region.
Speaker:
00:19:38
So this is 1878, so just before some of this, this, um, US Geological Survey.
Speaker:
00:19:44
So He was looking ahead.
Speaker:
00:19:46
He's out exploring everywhere all the time, and he drew up this report,
Speaker:
00:19:51
and he basically said, "Hey, the standard 160 acre Homestead Act made
Speaker:
00:19:56
no sense past the 100th meridian because there wasn't enough rain to
Speaker:
00:19:59
support traditional family farming."
Speaker:
00:20:02
Think about the Midwest, think about Utah, and how dry and arid it is out there.
Speaker:
00:20:07
So he actually advocated that western state and country borders should be
Speaker:
00:20:11
drawn around natural watersheds rather than arbitrary straight lines on a
Speaker:
00:20:15
map so communities could collectively govern and conserve their water supply.
Speaker:
00:20:20
He was kind of brushed off.
Speaker:
00:20:21
They didn't… I don't think they ended up following, um, his advice, but his
Speaker:
00:20:25
warnings were lar- so it says they were largely ignored by politicians eager
Speaker:
00:20:29
to settle the West, but they proved prophetic decades later during the Dust
Speaker:
00:20:34
Bowl and the modern Western water crisis.
Speaker:
00:20:37
So he was just…
Speaker:
00:20:39
He was the guy, like, out there.
Speaker:
00:20:41
He was, like, the, I'll call it, quote-unquote, you know,
Speaker:
00:20:43
modern-day Lewis and Clark-
Speaker:
00:20:45
Yeah,
Speaker:
00:20:45
man of his time … a couple, couple decades later.
Speaker:
00:20:47
Mm-hmm.
Speaker:
00:20:47
Right?
Speaker:
00:20:48
But, um, and then he was a co-funder- co-founder of the
Speaker:
00:20:51
National Geographic Society.
Speaker:
00:20:53
So John Wesley Powell is just a super interesting character 'cause here he
Speaker:
00:20:57
is a soldier exploring just all over.
Speaker:
00:21:01
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:21:01
Just mapping the, mapping all of the country, first one to go through the
Speaker:
00:21:06
Grand Canyon, doing all this stuff.
Speaker:
00:21:08
Just a really interesting character, and you talk about someone who truly
Speaker:
00:21:12
contributed and is a massive part of the history of the Grand Canyon and the West.
Speaker:
00:21:19
Yeah, and it's neat.
Speaker:
00:21:20
If you… Those second expeditions that take place in 1871 and 1872,
Speaker:
00:21:24
he brings a camera with him.
Speaker:
00:21:26
So you know photography is around, Civil War, and so some of those pictures,
Speaker:
00:21:30
you can look at those pictures.
Speaker:
00:21:31
Those are the first photographs of the Grand Canyon and people going
Speaker:
00:21:34
down there, meeting the indigenous, and taking photographs with them.
Speaker:
00:21:37
So, uh, it's really neat if you wanna look through those photos.
Speaker:
00:21:40
Now, we talk about the indigenous because Powell is the first Westerner-
Speaker:
00:21:46
Right
Speaker:
00:21:47
… to come through here.
Speaker:
00:21:48
But there really were, uh, a lot of Native Americans who were in the area
Speaker:
00:21:53
before Powell will, uh, make his way.
Speaker:
00:21:57
But you do have the Navajo and other First Peoples.
Speaker:
00:22:01
The Pueblo people are also there.
Speaker:
00:22:03
But in 1540, so you have the Spanish, uh, conquistadors who get
Speaker:
00:22:09
out there, Coronado, uh, Cárdenas.
Speaker:
00:22:11
They are, are Spanish soldiers, and with the Hopi, uh, guides,
Speaker:
00:22:15
they go to the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:22:17
Yep.
Speaker:
00:22:17
So there are other First Peoples who are there and see the Grand
Speaker:
00:22:21
Canyon and report about it.
Speaker:
00:22:23
Now, there's a lot of speculation in history that there's other trappers
Speaker:
00:22:27
and people who h- must have seen it.
Speaker:
00:22:29
They must have come upon it, but there's not a lot of writing and primary
Speaker:
00:22:33
source material of people who left, uh- detailed e- uh, encounters behind,
Speaker:
00:22:39
but we know that between 18- 1540 and Powell's visit, uh, there must've been
Speaker:
00:22:45
other trappers that saw it as well.
Speaker:
00:22:47
But it definitely was an indigenous area, and people did l- live
Speaker:
00:22:50
there and make their homes there.
Speaker:
00:22:53
Uh, what's neat too is how Scott talked about the California condor.
Speaker:
00:22:57
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:22:57
So that was a bird that was indigenous to the area and almost
Speaker:
00:23:01
was completely hunted away.
Speaker:
00:23:04
Uh, but there was a conservation effort to bring it back, and they
Speaker:
00:23:07
actually, uh, were able to hatch more.
Speaker:
00:23:10
And now, today, when we were there, they have such a expansive wingspan,
Speaker:
00:23:15
and when they're f- floating over the canyon, you can definitely see them.
Speaker:
00:23:19
Yeah, we… I, I got lucky.
Speaker:
00:23:20
We got a one really cool shot of a California condor just flying around and
Speaker:
00:23:24
kinda t- going, coming up and coming right down, all the way down into the canyon.
Speaker:
00:23:30
It was really cool.
Speaker:
00:23:31
So yeah, in the 1980s, there was a big push to kinda, one, kinda
Speaker:
00:23:36
label them as endangered, right?
Speaker:
00:23:37
That happened a lot in the '70s and '80s.
Speaker:
00:23:39
Label them as, as endangered and kinda foster the environment around
Speaker:
00:23:42
them so that they could… Um, and I remember learning about that when I was
Speaker:
00:23:45
growing up 'cause California, right?
Speaker:
00:23:46
California condor.
Speaker:
00:23:47
Um, so they were… They're kinda a western bird.
Speaker:
00:23:50
But, uh, so yeah, if you're watching the video, I'm probably, uh, putting
Speaker:
00:23:53
B-roll of that, that cool shot I got- … of, of the California condor.
Speaker:
00:23:56
And then we talked about the railroad coming through.
Speaker:
00:23:59
So a rail line was started in Flagstaff, and Flagstaff is kind
Speaker:
00:24:02
of the city before you get to the Grand Canyon, and that happened in
Speaker:
00:24:05
1882 with the Santa Fe Railroad.
Speaker:
00:24:07
So there was stagecoaches and railroads who start to come through in the 1880s.
Speaker:
00:24:12
And then, uh, yeah, the first automobile was driven to the Grand Canyon in 1902.
Speaker:
00:24:16
And then we talk a little bit about the first phone lines coming through.
Speaker:
00:24:20
Yes, we did mention that.
Speaker:
00:24:21
I didn't mention that in the intro, but that was kind of the 1930s, right?
Speaker:
00:24:25
The Triple C and, uh- Mm-hmm … F- FDR and, and Eisenhower and all
Speaker:
00:24:28
those efforts and stuff like that.
Speaker:
00:24:30
Um, well, pre-Eisenhower.
Speaker:
00:24:32
But, uh So the Civilian Conservation Corps, and you mention that in the video.
Speaker:
00:24:37
Yes, and it's really neat to kinda see they have some surviving telephone
Speaker:
00:24:41
poles from when they came in and ran the wires across the Grand Canyon.
Speaker:
00:24:46
Uh, Scott talked about, a little bit about the Mormons.
Speaker:
00:24:48
There are Mormons who are also settling in the area because they're getting
Speaker:
00:24:52
… They're coming into Utah, and there was some Mormons who were also there before
Speaker:
00:24:56
Powell actually makes it out there.
Speaker:
00:24:58
And they're the first ones to really encounter the natives and,
Speaker:
00:25:00
uh, be able to make friendships with them and alliances with them.
Speaker:
00:25:05
Uh, but it's really neat to go out there and just see so much history and how
Speaker:
00:25:09
much people have seen the Grand Canyon, and to know it really hasn't changed.
Speaker:
00:25:16
That site picture of the conquistadors in the 1540s is
Speaker:
00:25:19
probably what you see today in 2026.
Speaker:
00:25:22
So it was really neat to go out there and s- and partake of the beauty of it,
Speaker:
00:25:26
and it really did take my breath away.
Speaker:
00:25:29
Yeah.
Speaker:
00:25:29
It was great, and so this … Th- that's, that's one of those ones,
Speaker:
00:25:32
we got plenty of comments on the video that said, "Hey, this is a
Speaker:
00:25:34
bucket list item." Um, absolutely.
Speaker:
00:25:36
Hopefully, if you're listening to this in the car on the way to the
Speaker:
00:25:39
Grand Canyon, this gave you some, uh, some good ideas of what to go see.
Speaker:
00:25:47
As you step back from the edge of the South Rim and watch the late
Speaker:
00:25:51
afternoon shadows stretch across miles of ancient stone, it's impossible not
Speaker:
00:25:55
to feel a raw sense of perspective.
Speaker:
00:25:59
From the daring journey of John Wesley Powell and his crew rowing
Speaker:
00:26:03
wooden boats into the great unknown, to the hard labor of the Civilian
Speaker:
00:26:07
Conservation Corps running telephone lines through freezing winter snow and
Speaker:
00:26:10
blistering summer heat, this landscape tests and inspires the human spirit.
Speaker:
00:26:16
Theodore Roosevelt was right.
Speaker:
00:26:18
You cannot improve upon it.
Speaker:
00:26:20
It stands as a timeless reminder to preserve those sacred wild
Speaker:
00:26:24
spaces for generations to come.
Speaker:
00:26:27
This detour off Route 66 was an unforgettable chapter in our cross-country
Speaker:
00:26:31
trip, but our tires are pointing back towards the asphalt next time.
Speaker:
00:26:34
We get right back on Route 66 to explore the small town that inspired
Speaker:
00:26:38
Radiator Springs as we continue to make our way toward the Pacific.
Speaker:
00:26:43
Make sure you subscribe to Talk With History on your favorite podcast
Speaker:
00:26:46
app so you never miss an episode or a mile of the journey ahead.
Speaker:
00:26:49
We'll talk to you next time.
Speaker:
00:26:50
Thank you.
Speaker:
00:26:52
This has been a Walk With History production.
Speaker:
00:26:54
Talk With History is created and hosted by me, Scott Bennie.
Speaker:
00:26:57
Episode researched by Jennifer Bennie.
Speaker:
00:27:00
Check out the show notes for links and references mentioned in this episode.
Speaker:
00:27:04
Make sure you hit that follow button in that podcast player,
Speaker:
00:27:06
and we'll talk to you next time